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A Barneys Campaign Embraces a Gender Identity Issue

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  • schemedream
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2013
    • 185

    A Barneys Campaign Embraces a Gender Identity Issue

    From the NYTimes

    Didn't see this till today. Few days old but I think worth mentioning.



    Arin Andrews and Katie Hill do not look out of place in the new Barneys New York campaign. Both have nonexistent hips, are right in the ballpark of six feet tall and aren’t yet old enough for a legal drink. But there’s one marked difference between them and the models you ordinarily see on runways and in the pages of Vogue and Elle: Mr. Andrews, 17, was born a girl, and Ms. Hill, 19, a boy.

    They are just two of nearly 20 transgender models photographed by Bruce Weber who will appear in the new Barneys catalog and magazine campaign, wearing clothes from designers like Ann Demeulemeester, Balenciaga, Lanvin and Manolo Blahnik.

    Alongside photographs of the subjects, many taken with family members, pets and other members of their support networks, the catalog also features excerpts from interviews with the participants by the journalist Patricia Bosworth, a contributing editor at Vanity Fair and the biographer of Diane Arbus.

    Ranging in age from 17 to “early 30s,” their races, socioeconomic positions and places on the transgender spectrum vary.

    Launch media viewerTransgender models photographed for the Barneys catalog and magazine campaign.

    Bruce Weber
    Gisele Xtravaganza is Hispanic and grew up in the Bronx. Max Neu, who is white, is from Hamburg, Germany.

    Some, like Ms. Hill and Valentijn de Hingh, a 23-year-old transgender woman from Amsterdam who has already done a handful of modeling gigs for brands like Maison Martin Margiela and Comme des Garçons, have fully transitioned and undergone gender reassignment surgery.

    Others, like Ryley Pogensky, a party promoter who was born female and now identifies as “gender queer,” have not.

    As he puts it in the catalog: “What is between my legs is not thoroughly who I am. If gender is black and white, I’m gray.”

    The idea for the campaign was hatched by Dennis Freedman, who is in charge of Barneys ad campaigns and was formerly the creative director of W magazine, where he oversaw envelope-pushing features that included showing the designer Tom Ford with sex toys and Brad Pitt nearly naked.

    In an interview, Mr. Freedman said that the campaign was a chance to create awareness of a community that has in many ways been left behind as gay men and lesbians have moved further and further into the mainstream.

    “I was exquisitely aware that in the last decade, the L.G.B. communities have made extraordinary advances, and the transgender community has not shared in that progress,” Mr. Freedman said.

    The fashion world has not been terribly quick to embrace transgender people in imagery, although there are exceptions.

    In 2007, Carine Roitfeld put Andre J., an African-American party promoter with an ample beard, legs for days and a penchant for slinky dresses, on the cover of French Vogue. In 2010, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy cast Lea T, a transgender Brazilian model, in its ad campaign along with several other non-transgender models. And since 2009, Luis Venegas has published Candy, which bills itself as a “transversal style magazine” and is published twice a year. (One issue had James Franco in drag, photographed by Terry Richardson. Another had the transgender performer Connie Fleming as Michelle Obama.)

    Mr. Venegas called the decision by Barneys to do an entire campaign devoted to transgender people, many of them nonmodels, “big news.”

    He also applauded the decision to have the campaign shot by Mr. Weber, who is perhaps the pre-eminent all-American fashion photographer, having worked with Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Abercrombie & Fitch, saying it sends a powerful message.

    “He makes things look healthy and beautiful,” Mr. Venegas said. “There’s no darkness in his images. Everything is a safe place where nothing goes wrong.”

    None of the models appear to be complaining. Ms. de Hingh said, “In this capitalist consumerist society, things only become acceptable when they become marketable.” The campaign, she added, “was done so honestly and so beautifully and with so much integrity. It’s a really important, big project.”
  • Patroklus
    Banned
    • Feb 2011
    • 1672

    #2
    grats to mister weber doubling the number of minorities shot in his career

    is it really necessary to lambshade the gender they were assigned at birth, and is it really effective to sequester them into a campaign? isn't it a lot more subversive and a lot more meaningful to accept trans individuals into all your campaigns?

    Comment

    • Verdandi
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2012
      • 486

      #3
      Originally posted by Patroklus View Post
      is it really necessary to lambshade the gender they were assigned at birth, and is it really effective to sequester them into a campaign? isn't it a lot more subversive and a lot more meaningful to accept trans individuals into all your campaigns?
      Exactly. Now the folks at Barney's can congratulate themselves for being oh SO progressive. It's like shooting campaigns and covers with all black models.
      Speaking of, I wonder what would happend if these black, trans people would actually walk into a Barney's, trying to buy something...

      And nice to see you posting again!
      lavender menace

      Comment

      • KodakII
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2008
        • 388

        #4
        ^This is what Janet Mock, a black trans activist, had to say: http://janetmock.tumblr.com/post/751...really-barneys

        Comment

        • schemedream
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2013
          • 185

          #5
          Originally posted by Verdandi View Post
          Exactly. Now the folks at Barney's can congratulate themselves for being oh SO progressive. It's like shooting campaigns and covers with all black models.
          Speaking of, I wonder what would happend if these black, trans people would actually walk into a Barney's, trying to buy something...

          And nice to see you posting again!

          For sure. I look at it in not so much what PR Barney's gets out of it, but exposing new ideas of modernity to people who potentially don't know much about transgender or who may be biased towards it in a negative way. I don't have any illusion of them being progressive or of them furthering the "conversation" around the LGBT community, but it is a big name taking a step in a taboo direction. Hopefully others will follow who have more integrity and more to contribute to the progression of acceptance.

          Comment

          • Fuuma
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 4050

            #6
            Isn't the transgressive atmosphere they engender in a campaign predicated on their exclusion?
            Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
            http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

            Comment

            • Patroklus
              Banned
              • Feb 2011
              • 1672

              #7
              I don't want it to be transgressive to use trans individuals in a campaign.

              Comment

              • galia
                Senior Member
                • Jun 2009
                • 1702

                #8
                well it's the transgressive appeal that makes the cultural relevance and marketing appeal of this campaign. you may not like it, but it is what it is

                Comment

                • Patroklus
                  Banned
                  • Feb 2011
                  • 1672

                  #9
                  lol, I'm okay with a world where trans people are too banal to be cashed in upon. I'm not really interested in whether or not this was an effective piece of marketing or why that might excuse being an ineffective piece of activism.

                  Comment

                  • galia
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2009
                    • 1702

                    #10
                    I think activism has failed in this instance, because it has not forwarded the cause of trans people in society at large, but has made them into a marketable micro-demographic. we'll see how that pans out, but if I was being targeted, I'd probably be insulted rather than thankful

                    Comment

                    • Patroklus
                      Banned
                      • Feb 2011
                      • 1672

                      #11
                      vogue glamour shots of a gorgeous lady who no one realizes is trans until she chooses to let them know, because she felt comfortable with making herself a visible face. Or a by trans for trans production or something. Even if Weber had chosen to do this independently and for the sake raising trans visibility, it would still be a problem for the ally to be the one deciding that everyone gets to know this information about their personal lives.

                      Comment

                      • arby2001
                        Senior Member
                        • Jan 2011
                        • 102

                        #12
                        i for one do not see the importance of the gender of the model as long as he/she is able to carry off the look well. once again, this smacks of nothing more than a poorly disguised marketing campaign.

                        i don't understand, i've been trying to deliver the message to those around me that my ideal sort of male fashion (the kind i strive to portray) is by and large catered to the average man on the street earning a respectable income. in other words, masculine cool.

                        but there seems to be a persistent and rather loathsome undercurrent, no doubt perpetuated by some designers and members of industry, that fashion has to be flamboyant, sexualised, outlandish and/or outre, for consumption by individuals who are gay, transsexual, snooty, rich and/or attention seeking. i hate that.
                        too skinny for rick

                        Comment

                        • Fuuma
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 4050

                          #13
                          Originally posted by arby2001 View Post
                          i for one do not see the importance of the gender of the model as long as he/she is able to carry off the look well. once again, this smacks of nothing more than a poorly disguised marketing campaign.

                          i don't understand, i've been trying to deliver the message to those around me that my ideal sort of male fashion (the kind i strive to portray) is by and large catered to the average man on the street earning a respectable income. in other words, masculine cool.

                          but there seems to be a persistent and rather loathsome undercurrent, no doubt perpetuated by some designers and members of industry, that fashion has to be flamboyant, sexualised, outlandish and/or outre, for consumption by individuals who are gay, transsexual, snooty, rich and/or attention seeking. i hate that.
                          It is not disguised at all. IT IS A FUCKING SHOOT FOR A MARKETING CAMPAIGN. WTF!!

                          BTW what is an average man on the street earning a respectable income? Like some white bobo fuck? Fuck em.
                          Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                          http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                          Comment

                          • endorphinz
                            Banned
                            • Jun 2009
                            • 1215

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
                            It is not disguised at all. IT IS A FUCKING SHOOT FOR A MARKETING CAMPAIGN. WTF!!
                            EXACTLY

                            Comment

                            • DudleyGray
                              Senior Member
                              • Jul 2013
                              • 1143

                              #15
                              Originally posted by arby2001 View Post
                              i don't understand, i've been trying to deliver the message to those around me that my ideal sort of male fashion (the kind i strive to portray) is by and large catered to the average man on the street earning a respectable income. in other words, masculine cool.
                              Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
                              BTW what is an average man on the street earning a respectable income? Like some white bobo fuck? Fuck em.
                              +1

                              I don't get why you would try and deliver this message of "ideal sort of male fashion" and "masculine cool." It is not only already catered to, but it's prepackaged for you and forced down your throat everywhere you look. You don't even have to seek it out, it's the default. It's the exact mould that everyone wants you to grow into, so you can show that you are a productive hetero normative member of society that will consume happily and reproduce all with utmost consent and the least dissent to perpetuate the status quo.

                              But if that's really your message to the world, well more power to you I guess.
                              bandcamp | facebook | youtube

                              Comment

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