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  • gawkrodger
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2013
    • 334

    #46
    Originally posted by Faust View Post
    (I have not seen the full list, but I suspect they are on it) "
    for reference, here is said list

    Comment

    • Enzo
      Member
      • Apr 2015
      • 31

      #47
      UNIQLO plans are crazy:
      Tadashi Yanai looks like a mild-mannered Japanese executive. But he is one audacious clothing salesman. His goal is to turn the retailer he runs, Uniqlo, into a company with $50 billion revenues by 2020, selling low priced yet fashionable, basic items like v-neck cashmere sweaters, colorful t-shirts and lightweight down jackets. To do so, he’s planning to open 1,000 stores in the U.S. So far he’s got just four here.
      almost anti-everything

      Comment

      • ES3K
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2008
        • 530

        #48
        Band of Outsiders might be "done"

        Hard times for some brands I guess.

        According to several people who have worked at, or with, the company, Band of Outsiders has laid off the majority of its staff, and canceled all fall wholesale orders. The brand was low on funds and chose not to produce its next collection.

        More here:

        Comment

        • Faust
          kitsch killer
          • Sep 2006
          • 37852

          #49
          Was coming to post this, thanks! Damir and BoO. I wonder who's next.
          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

          Comment

          • Ahimsa
            Vegan Police
            • Sep 2011
            • 1879

            #50
            I just heard that Honor is also shutting down. (got it from one of their producers)
            Edit: News that they're switching from RTW to Bridal and custom orders…
            (http://fashionista.com/2015/05/honor-nyc-shut-down)

            I believe VPL is also done or just about. (They've been selling off all their equipment/fabric etc.)
            Last edited by Ahimsa; 05-27-2015, 08:55 AM.
            StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

            Comment

            • zamb
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2006
              • 5834

              #51
              i am going to ask a very important question now.......in light of all of what we are seeing.

              Do we think that the current Model used by designers to launch and develop their brands, has become obsolete?
              If not obsolete at least needs to be adjusted as it seems to not be working in today's world/ marketplace?
              “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
              .................................................. .......................


              Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #52
                The current model for a successful "designer" seems to be something like this:

                a) become friends with a famous rapper
                b) launch a knock-off line of the stuff the said rapper already wears
                c) get the rapper to wear it
                d) Instagram like mad
                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • zamb
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 5834

                  #53
                  Come on my friend........I need something more serious and thorough than that.

                  I am talking about the whole seasonal collections// wholesale// PR company// Fashion shows// borrow money and be in debt to fund everything, and then hoping the wholesale volume will become enough to pay the debt back, grow the brand and eventually turn a profit.

                  if this doesn't work then at some point an "investor" will see the value of the brand and buy it, provide funding before the whole thing collapse....
                  “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                  .................................................. .......................


                  Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    #54
                    I was only half facetious. Look at Off-White, Fear of God, Marcelo Burlon, and Hood by Air.

                    The traditional business model has shifted somewhat. There is definitely much more impact on PR and developing direct-to-consumer following and then direct-to-consumer sales. Stores as tastemakers are a dead proposition. That's where the real shift has happened. Few people go to stores anymore to discover new talent.
                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • Ahimsa
                      Vegan Police
                      • Sep 2011
                      • 1879

                      #55
                      Zam, I believe the market has become very over saturated. It is extremely competitive to obtain a Design Assistant/ Assistant Designer job with a starting salary around 30k.

                      Most of the younger brands I've been encountering are largely starting up with investors backing it. This means that the qualifications of the individuals have to be reviewed by the investors as well when starting up, with a focus of what looks good on paper rather than actual competence or knowledge of fashion at large. This is making it extremely bureaucratic with a review of just about every aspect, preventing any sort of risky behavior.

                      Essentially I think Faust is right. You gotta do what everyone else is doing and play it safe to obtain any sort of backing. The start up costs are too astronomical now for a designer to start up and break through to get any sort of attention. A fashion show generally costs around 100k for MBFW as far as I know, and that doesn't even guarantee any sort of real media coverage. Free social media publicity through celebrity is really the smarter model economically. Vogue got in on that celebrity train early.

                      A great deal of the evening wear brands in NYC are actually just pet projects by rich women. They fund it through their already existing wealth, leech for a bit, eventually break even, and then turn a profit.

                      I apologize if this comes of as a rant. As someone in the thick of new designers and many friends starting out in design, my viewpoint is skewed a bit.
                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

                      Comment

                      • ES3K
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2008
                        • 530

                        #56
                        Fully agree to Faust's posting. Although this Instagram-business model seems a little bit like doing iPhone apps to me. Marcelo Burlon is the Angry Birds of fashion, but there are probably 10000 other labels trying to spread their hashtags and no one notices.

                        Also, there's too little change in fashion, like in car design the execs are too afraid that change might harm the business (and they are probably right -- when there's change on the runway, no one buys it, like with wide trousers).
                        Then, like in society, the middle class is finished -- in a way, Band of Outsiders is kind of a cheaper Thom Browne, but there's no place for "medium-pricey" labels any more. Anyone can look good and contemporary in Uniqlo, Zara (et al) nowadays, and might give their look some icing on the cake with the current hot item/label of the season. Which probably is a bag/backpack or sunglasses.

                        Comment

                        • ES3K
                          Senior Member
                          • Oct 2008
                          • 530

                          #57
                          And here goes another one... KVA!

                          It would appear that Belgian designer Kris Van Assche is set to fold his semi eponymous brand KRISVANASSCHE after a decade of work to concentrate on his role as Creative Director at Dior Homme. In a statement released today the brand claimed that the SS16 show and showroom would be cancelled and the FW15/16 collection would not be delivered. Van Assche told WWD “I will now focus on Dior Homme in order to enhance what I have been working on during my first eight years as men’s artistic director.”

                          Source: http://hypebeast.com/2015/5/krisvana...e-closing-down
                          Last edited by ES3K; 05-28-2015, 06:20 AM.

                          Comment

                          • Faust
                            kitsch killer
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 37852

                            #58
                            Wow, crazy.
                            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                            Comment

                            • ES3K
                              Senior Member
                              • Oct 2008
                              • 530

                              #59
                              More incoming... Moschino drops their Cheap & Chic diffusion line (according to the article responsible for 40% of Moschino's turnover), although replacing it with a new line "Boutique Moschino" which, so they hope, will appeal to a wider target audience and is priced 30-40% below the main line.

                              Can't really see the sense in this, but oh well...

                              Source (German language):

                              Comment

                              • zamb
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2006
                                • 5834

                                #60
                                and we will see more of this coming, as people who are holding on for dear life will somehow let go by saying to themselves, "if people like Moschino, Gaultier and KVA cant make it then how can I?"

                                AS McQueen once said, to survive in this business one has to be aggressive and have aggressive feelings.....
                                And then they say designers are making huge profits from high markups on designer goods........
                                “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                                .................................................. .......................


                                Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                                Comment

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