DEEPTI (Deepti Barth)

[julian_doe]

Speak for yourselves gentlemen. Perhaps you haven't worn a suit in ten years because you have never seen or worn a good one. Or you are not keeping up with what is going on. Tailoring is far from dead. Our explosive growth over the past decade and who is selling and wearing our clothes is all the proof anyone needs. And I would caution all these assumptions that Deepti is not selling. Deepti is selling and selling well. She is making some very good tailored (yes I said tailored) clothes these days which we are seeing on some of the same people buying our pieces. For your information these are very successful managers, entrepreneurs, lawyers, bankers, doctors, pro athletes, art professionals (artists who make some money doing their art) and many very famous people who we will leave nameless out of discretion... who basically hate the cheap bullshit that the mainstream fashion media and corporate brands and now even you guys are vomiting upon us everywhere you look... and will buy truckloads of exceptional tailored clothing when it is done right and worth the big money that it requires to do it right these days. The problem is not that tailoring is dead, the problem is the non-existence of good tailoring that is still left around anymore. That is not a product issue it is a skill issue. So get it straight. Brioni (bought for 350 million euro and self-destructed by Kering several years ago) and Saville Row have both ruined themselves and Loro Piana (bought by LVMH for 2 billion euro) is on its way to the same destination. But the numbers at Kiton and Zegna will stun you if you know what they are. So let's stop kidding ourselves gentlemen, the people who rule this world and 99 percent of the assets and the money in this cruel world- still wear tailored clothing and suits, lots of them. And in many places where they must be and they must go, you can't operate without it... you see there is a class thing that applies as well (if you are not aware of it). And that's fine with us, and perhaps with Deepti as well. If the rest of the industry wants to keep chasing the streetwear, parka and sneaker business which is fundamentally being driven by the Chinese Z-generation and milllenial marketing scam already on the verge of collapsing, well then, even better. As for us, we can sell every suit and extreme tailored piece of clothing we can make, and the wait list is out to over a year now for what we cannot yet make. If that's your definition of dead, fine... to each his own. Sorry, but I think Deepti is doing a lot better than you think, and doesn't really need the coaching, cheers, Geoffrey

Excuse me, but I don't think anyone is supporting the hypebeast train, or stating that Deepti is not successful. These personal attacks are unfounded, as I am actually saying that it is a positive thing that Deepti focuses on tailoring.

It almost sounds like you are taking this personally, where your name was not brought up at all.

The "peasant" look (I don't know what else to call it) with unstructured jackets and suspenders is being done by EVERYONE in this niche of fashion, from GBS to Layer-0. It is actually nice to see designers doing something different (strict tailoring). But to say that Deepti should be celebrated as CCP just because she is doing something "different", I don't think so.

Relax.

[Gerber]

Deepti is selling well? Not sure where you heard that Geoffrey. Lots of stores dropped Deepti, and even stores like Darklands that used to be pretty strong at online sales, just revealed that they have literally half the stock of three years Deepti left. I heard the opposite from almost every store buyer (in terms of selling well).

From what I see: People tend to prefer less stricly tailored pieces, without strong "forcing" shape, like PH, Ziggy Chen or even your blazers, which are made quite differently but indeed feel more comfortable.

[Faust]

Geoffrey, I should clarify my comment. I was talking about Deepti's penchant for very strict, rigid tailoring that is quite far from what you do, or as href points out what Harnden and Dawson do. When I say there is little room for this today is that men want to be comfortable, even in their tailoring - which is why I think your tailoring works very well. What I particularly enjoy your about your work you can do a head to toe GBS, or you can incorporate a piece here and there. This is quite hard to do with Deepti - that's why I called hers a wardrobe proposition (yours can very much be, but doesn't have to be). Again, I think she is very talented, but I do think her work is at risk of being irrelevant. I think she is very smart to operate on a shoestring, keeping only a certain number of stores, because I don't think hers is a scaleable business. Sad but true (well, hopefully not true!).

P.S. Basically, kind of what Gerber said. I hate to say it, but comfort is king today.

[MaxM]

structured tailoring can be comfortable ....

from what i have seen from ccp and deepti (been a while) the problem is especially with the fabric choices

its almost like its not meant to be worn, vs GBS and others were its almost like its meant to be slept in

[negroygris]

Speak for yourselves gentlemen. Perhaps you haven't worn a suit in ten years because you have never seen or worn a good one. Or you are not keeping up with what is going on. Tailoring is far from dead. Our explosive growth over the past decade and who is selling and wearing our clothes is all the proof anyone needs. And I would caution all these assumptions that Deepti is not selling. Deepti is selling and selling well. She is making some very good tailored (yes I said tailored) clothes these days which we are seeing on some of the same people buying our pieces. For your information these are very successful managers, entrepreneurs, lawyers, bankers, doctors, pro athletes, art professionals (artists who make some money doing their art) and many very famous people who we will leave nameless out of discretion... who basically hate the cheap bullshit that the mainstream fashion media and corporate brands and now even you guys are vomiting upon us everywhere you look... and will buy truckloads of exceptional tailored clothing when it is done right and worth the big money that it requires to do it right these days. The problem is not that tailoring is dead, the problem is the non-existence of good tailoring that is still left around anymore. That is not a product issue it is a skill issue. So get it straight. Brioni (bought for 350 million euro and self-destructed by Kering several years ago) and Saville Row have both ruined themselves and Loro Piana (bought by LVMH for 2 billion euro) is on its way to the same destination. But the numbers at Kiton and Zegna will stun you if you know what they are. So let's stop kidding ourselves gentlemen, the people who rule this world and 99 percent of the assets and the money in this cruel world- still wear tailored clothing and suits, lots of them. And in many places where they must be and they must go, you can't operate without it... you see there is a class thing that applies as well (if you are not aware of it). And that's fine with us, and perhaps with Deepti as well. If the rest of the industry wants to keep chasing the streetwear, parka and sneaker business which is fundamentally being driven by the Chinese Z-generation and milllenial marketing scam already on the verge of collapsing, well then, even better. As for us, we can sell every suit and extreme tailored piece of clothing we can make, and the wait list is out to over a year now for what we cannot yet make. If that's your definition of dead, fine... to each his own. Sorry, but I think Deepti is doing a lot better than you think, and doesn't really need the coaching, cheers, Geoffrey

I agree with Geoffrey as well, I do not think tailoring is dead at all, i think it is far from it. Working in retail for over 10+ years I realized that the most money the people i worked for was in tailoring. Let's be honest a business man will rather spend money on an extreme tailored piece because of its value of work and because he will use that tailored garment more frequently than a parka or a sneaker which is only worn on the days off. With the constant long days of work these items never see the light of wear, so they end up being stored away and later on being sold online for a very low price. Whilst, the tailored garment its in being used daily and then there will be the need of another tailored suit, blazer, trousers, coat, etc. In my opinion high end streetwear is definitely suffering, tons of these avant garde designers (won't mention names) are the ones who always go on sale at standing stores and online as well. I have never seen Carol, or Deepti on a sale rack. From experience certain tailored pieces can even increase in value due to body of work of fine tailoring. I also have to say that Deepti doesn't need to change her direction, I think her work is worth what it is. On the other hand, i do think Deepti should definitely open up her spectrum of variety, and she should definitely try to expand her textile choices, like MaxM said "structure tailoring can be comfortable", Deepti should incorporate softer fabrics and a bit more comfortable blended textiles, whilst keeping the structure tailoring.

[ashamed]

i do think Deepti should ...

You people trying to coach this Woman on the internet are truly pathetic. I cant believe you went through the whole process of typing and sending your comments without thinking "ay, maybe i should just shut the fuck up"

[julian_doe]

I agree with Geoffrey as well, I do not think tailoring is dead at all, i think it is far from it. Working in retail for over 10+ years I realized that the most money the people i worked for was in tailoring. Let's be honest a business man will rather spend money on an extreme tailored piece because of its value of work and because he will use that tailored garment more frequently than a parka or a sneaker which is only worn on the days off. With the constant long days of work these items never see the light of wear, so they end up being stored away and later on being sold online for a very low price. Whilst, the tailored garment its in being used daily and then there will be the need of another tailored suit, blazer, trousers, coat, etc. In my opinion high end streetwear is definitely suffering, tons of these avant garde designers (won't mention names) are the ones who always go on sale at standing stores and online as well. I have never seen Carol, or Deepti on a sale rack. From experience certain tailored pieces can even increase in value due to body of work of fine tailoring. I also have to say that Deepti doesn't need to change her direction, I think her work is worth what it is. On the other hand, i do think Deepti should definitely open up her spectrum of variety, and she should definitely try to expand her textile choices, like MaxM said "structure tailoring can be comfortable", Deepti should incorporate softer fabrics and a bit more comfortable blended textiles, whilst keeping the structure tailoring.

You work in retail, and you are stating that "streetwear is definitely suffering". Where do you live? What statistics do you have to substantiate such a statement?

[Dropt]

You people trying to coach this Woman on the internet are truly pathetic. I cant believe you went through the whole process of typing and sending your comments without thinking "ay, maybe i should just shut the fuck up"

Settle down mate, no one is going on a crusade to mansplain anything to grandmeister Deepti. I'm not sure why you have to jump down his throat whilst he's just giving his opinion based on first-hand experience?

I personally do not care much for her output since I've never been a fan of Carol in the first place, but reading that discussion is pretty interesting.

edit: just realised that the sole purpose of ashamed is basically to defend Deepti during arguments on the brand thread. What a noble cause to spearhead.

[Faust]

I agree with Geoffrey as well, I do not think tailoring is dead at all, i think it is far from it. Working in retail for over 10+ years I realized that the most money the people i worked for was in tailoring. Let's be honest a business man will rather spend money on an extreme tailored piece because of its value of work and because he will use that tailored garment more frequently than a parka or a sneaker which is only worn on the days off. With the constant long days of work these items never see the light of wear, so they end up being stored away and later on being sold online for a very low price. Whilst, the tailored garment its in being used daily and then there will be the need of another tailored suit, blazer, trousers, coat, etc. In my opinion high end streetwear is definitely suffering, tons of these avant garde designers (won't mention names) are the ones who always go on sale at standing stores and online as well. I have never seen Carol, or Deepti on a sale rack. From experience certain tailored pieces can even increase in value due to body of work of fine tailoring. I also have to say that Deepti doesn't need to change her direction, I think her work is worth what it is. On the other hand, i do think Deepti should definitely open up her spectrum of variety, and she should definitely try to expand her textile choices, like MaxM said "structure tailoring can be comfortable", Deepti should incorporate softer fabrics and a bit more comfortable blended textiles, whilst keeping the structure tailoring.

But you are still talking Brioni here. Looks like you are conflating the two styles.

P.S. A bunch of Deepti on sale at L'Eclaireur. No one's fault really - it's part of business to clear old stock.

[Campe92]

But you are still talking Brioni here. Looks like you are conflating the two styles.

P.S. A bunch of Deepti on sale at L'Eclaireur. No one's fault really - it's part of business to clear old stock.

... Let's be honest a business man will rather spend money on an extreme tailored piece because of its value of work and because he will use that tailored garment more frequently than a parka or a sneaker which is only worn on the days off...

I agree with Faust...business man wil buy Brioni more than Deepti or similars... the 99% of Business man (like who work in a bank for example) will buy luxury brand like Armani ecc...write me negroygris when you will find a business man who knows deepti or ccp, i will give him a medal

[MaxM]

a business man would also spend money on brioni or kiton because he can get it bespoke, and he likely does not have the skinny asian frame required to fit in a deepti or ccp.

in many cases a bespoke suit doesn't cost more than a deepti/ccp suit, so its hard to justify it if you are not hardcore into the esthetic

[negroygris]

Campe92 I could name you a few but you wouldn't know because they are either friends of mine or clients. But my point is that tailoring is not dead. In regards to numbers i wouldn't know. As for CCP go to Hong Kong and look at how many businessmen wear CCP just for fun you'll be amazed.

[Campe92]

Campe92 I could name you a few but you wouldn't know because they are either friends of mine or clients. But my point is that tailoring is not dead. In regards to numbers i wouldn't know. As for CCP go to Hong Kong and look at how many businessmen wear CCP just for fun you'll be amazed.

yes man, i said 99% because i know there is 1% (worldwide)...i agree with you when you said that the tailoring is not dead, but at the same time i agree with the previous faust comments about deepti tailoring status...You cited hong kong business man that wears ccp, at the same time i can told you that i live in Milan from 2015 and the only one ccp piece i saw in 3 years, was a pair of drip sneakers...nobody goes to the unique Milan shop who sell Deepti, to buy a blazer or pants, and nobody in Milan sells CCP, and he's atelier is here! why? Personally i really like her work, but i think we are moving too much on a direction that i would call "art", "collection pieces", instead wearable (or comfortable, citing again faust)

[upsilonkng]

the one time i was in milan (to play a show) i found the people dressed not unlike Miami (european edition), like theres a lot of sun and everything on its way to something more grand than it actually was. Wasnt feeling it at all but its one day, not sure if everyone is usually better dressed but it seemed impossible to spot that day.

[upsilonkng]

Speak for yourselves gentlemen. Perhaps you haven't worn a suit in ten years because you have never seen or worn a good one. Or you are not keeping up with what is going on. Tailoring is far from dead. Our explosive growth over the past decade and who is selling and wearing our clothes is all the proof anyone needs. And I would caution all these assumptions that Deepti is not selling. Deepti is selling and selling well. She is making some very good tailored (yes I said tailored) clothes these days which we are seeing on some of the same people buying our pieces. For your information these are very successful managers, entrepreneurs, lawyers, bankers, doctors, pro athletes, art professionals (artists who make some money doing their art) and many very famous people who we will leave nameless out of discretion... who basically hate the cheap bullshit that the mainstream fashion media and corporate brands and now even you guys are vomiting upon us everywhere you look... and will buy truckloads of exceptional tailored clothing when it is done right and worth the big money that it requires to do it right these days. The problem is not that tailoring is dead, the problem is the non-existence of good tailoring that is still left around anymore. That is not a product issue it is a skill issue. So get it straight. Brioni (bought for 350 million euro and self-destructed by Kering several years ago) and Saville Row have both ruined themselves and Loro Piana (bought by LVMH for 2 billion euro) is on its way to the same destination. But the numbers at Kiton and Zegna will stun you if you know what they are. So let's stop kidding ourselves gentlemen, the people who rule this world and 99 percent of the assets and the money in this cruel world- still wear tailored clothing and suits, lots of them. And in many places where they must be and they must go, you can't operate without it... you see there is a class thing that applies as well (if you are not aware of it). And that's fine with us, and perhaps with Deepti as well. If the rest of the industry wants to keep chasing the streetwear, parka and sneaker business which is fundamentally being driven by the Chinese Z-generation and milllenial marketing scam already on the verge of collapsing, well then, even better. As for us, we can sell every suit and extreme tailored piece of clothing we can make, and the wait list is out to over a year now for what we cannot yet make. If that's your definition of dead, fine... to each his own. Sorry, but I think Deepti is doing a lot better than you think, and doesn't really need the coaching, cheers, Geoffrey

first of all im a huge fan Geoffrey and ur posts here have probably been the most informative and passionate of all who post here, having said that...
the whole tone of ur response does sound like u took it personal, and ur validation is not unlike Jason Newstead (Metallica) bassist response to metallica selling out, which of course they did, "yeah we sold out, every seat in the house everywhere we play". Class is a thing, i think we understand that, and some people need suits to work , ok awesome i guess. But to say that these people validate ur art or that this class divide between a professional artist and artist of other kind or any customer base is seen as real progress.. well u lost me there.

Some of the best artist i know only make a part time living doing their art, it doesn't make them less professional or less artistic, in fact when they do "make it" its usually thru compromise.

i wouldn't bank on bankers , lawyers , graphic artist and other total scumbags to make up ur portfolio and call it a fact that art is happening, its commerce and its great that that is working for GBS but ur work is fine w/out a douchebag w/ a keyless car and coke habit starts buying it 9 years into existence .

Can't we let the art be the validation? instead of black cards and vip bullshit?

I've had ccp suits didnt enjoy it, felt like i could rip it at all times and im chinese(taiwan born) w/ no real money, i prefer ur stuff as well as harnden and even Rick's tailored stuff more, then again im up at 11am and dont have a chauffeur so maybe my preference isnt as important to u.