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Thread: Ann Demeulemeester Men's SS16 - Paris

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    Default Ann Demeulemeester Men's SS16 - Paris




















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    The look on his face at the end. He knows he fucked up.

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    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Really? I thought it was good. Nice light tailoring, cool footwear. Will post SZ PHOTOS SOON - you'll get a better picture, so to speak...
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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    People here will of course be forever divided on the new course this brand is taking. I like this new course and I thought this collection was fresh and inspired and with a fairly large dose of brand DNA.

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    Those pants are downright embarrassing. Especially the orange bikers.

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    can't wait to see the SZ pics cause from what i see here, this is just bad. really messy as a collection and the use of colors just seems really off, not a fan.

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    edit: in response to new photos, regarding colors
    The SZ photos show them to be a lot more vibrant, so I retract my previous comment. The orange leather still reads as tacky. I find the turquoise to be better utilized as an accent, especially in conjunction with the orange. I found it less successful paired alone with black. Finally, I'm still not sold on jewel tone pants.


    The few instances of Ann D frilly detailing don't suite the direction of this collection or the brand should he continue down this path, skeumorphic. A number of the looks are also way too busy or just downright conflicted. Finally, those grid pants are way too precise and cold in my opinion, adding further tension to some of the looks.

    Ultimately, this collection offers some glimmers of the past, and some bright hints at the future. I do like everything bar the complaints listed and I'm excited to see what becomes of Ann Demeulemeester.
    Last edited by aussy; 06-27-2015 at 05:02 PM.

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    Collection was amazing in person.

    Hit on every quintessential Ann trait without adhering too closely to any of its potential clients' directionally diverse desires.

    From a buyers perspective, there was PLENTY here to whet one's appetite, no matter what side of the coin you (or your store's) tastes happen to fall.

    The layered hem cropped / tapered trousers (in their few variations), were some of the best in the brand's history, and the general layering and proportions were nothing short of classic, classic Ann.

    Monsieur Meunier has been head designer of menswear MUCH longer than most of us realize, so to write off his recent work as though he only JUST took the reigns is simply misguided.

    That being said, my opinion could change after I see the showroom tomorrow morning, but as a show, in person, I saw plenty to be excited about - even as a throughly sz-borne fashion victim.

    -

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    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

    STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

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    Thanks for the photos! They certainly show the collection in a more lively light. Edited my response above.

  13. #13
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussy View Post
    Thanks for the photos! They certainly show the collection in a more lively light. Edited my response above.
    It's really interesting to see the responses between those who were at the show and who only saw the photos. I thought this was strong while the universally praised Julius collection was weak.

    T-2hr to showroom visit. Final verdict tonight.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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    it looks much better in the 2nd set of photos, the details really make this. but i like s/s 15 more, that's for sure. but i thought that was prob the strongest overall in 15.

    interested about your impressions from the showroom, faust

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    Agree about the layered hem, something new to the beaten cropped trousers, paired with shoes on look 1 are my favorite.

    Haven't found more detailed shots of the footwear, If anyone can share, it would be great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alimanu View Post
    Agree about the layered hem, something new to the beaten cropped trousers, paired with shoes on look 1 are my favorite.

    Haven't found more detailed shots of the footwear, If anyone can share, it would be great.
    footwear was especially exciting at the showroom - what showed well from a seated distance had unbelievable amounts of unexpected texture and quality hand from up close.

    choosing footwear, thus far, was the hardest part of my job this go round.

    that, and choosing between the incredible fabric choices for the outerwear and trousers (medium weight & stiffness linen / cotton canvasses, lightweight silk & ramie blends, veined weave black cotton shirting, etc)

    -

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    At first I was shocked and horrified, but upon seeing the awesome photos from SZ it really changed my perception of the whole collection. I especially love the poetry of the all-black look with white shoes, the white/blue look with the waffled pants, and the necklaces too look great. I do hope they continue to work with Werkstatt to produce the jewelry, does anyone know if they are? (Some from the past two seasons said "Made in America"...) Also, isn't this the first time there are sunglasses on the runway? They don't look out of place, surprisingly.

    The colors though-- what? They look more Alexander Wang than Ann, whose colors always had a very personal, meaningful use. I'm surprised some of you are okay with them... The collection does look more updated as a whole, which isn't inherently a bad thing, though in addition to the use of color detracts from the usual weight of atmosphere that I'm used to falling in love with... Maybe some of us did like Ann because she transcended the commonality of most designers and transported you to a new place.

    And maybe some of the shoes are great, but these are perhaps the ugliest shoes to grace an Ann catwalk

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    It's really interesting to see the responses between those who were at the show and who only saw the photos. I thought this was strong while the universally praised Julius collection was weak.
    For sure! I remember having a similar reaction to a collection last season due to flash bleached photography, reminding me to wait for additional pictures to surface before passing judgement. I thought the Julius collection was a total snooze so I choose not to even comment on it. Even when I first disliked this Ann collection, it was interesting enough to warrant some words, and even more so now that I've come to enjoy it aside from the few pieces that I feel weaken it as a whole.

    I do agree that the colors detract from the weight and romance of the collection, but I'm not a diehard Ann fan so I can't say that my sensibilities are offended at the idea of a more poppy take on her vision.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bson View Post
    At first I was shocked and horrified, but upon seeing the awesome photos from SZ it really changed my perception of the whole collection.

    ........

    I do hope they continue to work with Werkstatt to produce the jewelry, does anyone know if they are? (Some from the past two seasons said "Made in America"...) Also, isn't this the first time there are sunglasses on the runway? They don't look out of place, surprisingly.
    thank you, I'm happy to hear that!

    I believe they are currently collaborating with Rene Talmon (for the past few seasons?)

    Sunglasses are a new collaboration with Linda Farrow
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

    STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

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    Quote Originally Posted by lowrey View Post
    thank you, I'm happy to hear that!

    I believe they are currently collaborating with Rene Talmon (for the past few seasons?)

    Sunglasses are a new collaboration with Linda Farrow
    Awesome, thank you for the additional info.

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