Ann Demeulemeester Men's SS16 - Paris

[curiouscharles]

Agree about the layered hem, something new to the beaten cropped trousers, paired with shoes on look 1 are my favorite.

Haven't found more detailed shots of the footwear, If anyone can share, it would be great.

footwear was especially exciting at the showroom - what showed well from a seated distance had unbelievable amounts of unexpected texture and quality hand from up close.

choosing footwear, thus far, was the hardest part of my job this go round.

that, and choosing between the incredible fabric choices for the outerwear and trousers (medium weight & stiffness linen / cotton canvasses, lightweight silk & ramie blends, veined weave black cotton shirting, etc)

[Bson]

At first I was shocked and horrified, but upon seeing the awesome photos from SZ it really changed my perception of the whole collection. I especially love the poetry of the all-black look with white shoes, the white/blue look with the waffled pants, and the necklaces too look great. I do hope they continue to work with Werkstatt to produce the jewelry, does anyone know if they are? (Some from the past two seasons said "Made in America"...) Also, isn't this the first time there are sunglasses on the runway? They don't look out of place, surprisingly.

The colors though-- what? They look more Alexander Wang than Ann, whose colors always had a very personal, meaningful use. I'm surprised some of you are okay with them... The collection does look more updated as a whole, which isn't inherently a bad thing, though in addition to the use of color detracts from the usual weight of atmosphere that I'm used to falling in love with... Maybe some of us did like Ann because she transcended the commonality of most designers and transported you to a new place.

And maybe some of the shoes are great, but these are perhaps the ugliest shoes to grace an Ann catwalk

[aussy]

It's really interesting to see the responses between those who were at the show and who only saw the photos. I thought this was strong while the universally praised Julius collection was weak.

For sure! I remember having a similar reaction to a collection last season due to flash bleached photography, reminding me to wait for additional pictures to surface before passing judgement. I thought the Julius collection was a total snooze so I choose not to even comment on it. Even when I first disliked this Ann collection, it was interesting enough to warrant some words, and even more so now that I've come to enjoy it aside from the few pieces that I feel weaken it as a whole.

I do agree that the colors detract from the weight and romance of the collection, but I'm not a diehard Ann fan so I can't say that my sensibilities are offended at the idea of a more poppy take on her vision.

[lowrey]

At first I was shocked and horrified, but upon seeing the awesome photos from SZ it really changed my perception of the whole collection.

........

I do hope they continue to work with Werkstatt to produce the jewelry, does anyone know if they are? (Some from the past two seasons said "Made in America"...) Also, isn't this the first time there are sunglasses on the runway? They don't look out of place, surprisingly.

thank you, I'm happy to hear that!

I believe they are currently collaborating with Rene Talmon (for the past few seasons?)

Sunglasses are a new collaboration with Linda Farrow

[Bson]

thank you, I'm happy to hear that!

I believe they are currently collaborating with Rene Talmon (for the past few seasons?)

Sunglasses are a new collaboration with Linda Farrow

Awesome, thank you for the additional info.

[Faust]

Werkstatt quit when Ann quit. For one or two season then Tabor 1-100 did it, hence the Made in the USA label. Then, as lowrey says, Rene Aimee Talmon took over.

The eyewear is a collab with Linda Farrow and more styles will be introduced during the women's.

Here is a better photo of the boots, which, as curiouscharles rightly points out, are pretty awesome.

[Rick-A-Doodle]

I just don't feel this collection is a cohesive as previous Ann collection. Sure, I bet they'll be some cool pieces, but it didn't inspire me like Ann's work normally does.
Rick and BBS are the only things I have now :(

[trentk]

It's really interesting to see the responses between those who were at the show and who only saw the photos. I thought this was strong while the universally praised Julius collection was weak.

Interesting how actually experiencing a show is both more pointed and more diffuse: a. not having access to recorded images all laid out in front of them, people remember mostly the things that stood out b. but they also seep in the diffuse ambience that is not present in documentation.

[Bson]

Werkstatt quit when Ann quit. For one or two season then Tabor 1-100 did it, hence the Made in the USA label. Then, as lowrey says, Rene Aimee Talmon took over.

The eyewear is a collab with Linda Farrow and more styles will be introduced during the women's.

Ooo makes sense now about the jewelry... Just found a write-up on the eyewear here

[Faust]

Interesting how actually experiencing a show is both more pointed and more diffuse: a. not having access to recorded images all laid out in front of them, people remember mostly the things that stood out b. but they also seep in the diffuse ambience that is not present in documentation.

I acknowledge that a show's ambiance can have an effect. But, you will never see the true colors or the movement or the back and side view on your computer screen.

[trentk]

I acknowledge that a show's ambiance can have an effect. But, you will never see the true colors or the movement or the back and side view on your computer screen.

Agreed about movement and different views and meant for that to be included in "ambience". I forgot about true color. While the problems of white balance, monitor glare, lights coming from the monitor vs reflecting of the clothes etc... are eliminated, you're still only seeing the clothes in particular lighting conditions, so I wouldn't say you're seeing the true colors. For example, one can polish black shoes with navy polish in a suitably minimal fashion such that the blue is only visible in extremely bright light.

[clay]

Can't say I love it, but the added colors look great. Love the orange leather pant ( hope they are leather anyway).

[C.R.E.A.M]

I just visited the ANN DEMEULEMEESTER's new website (which is quite shitty tbh) and went to the "SHOP" section.
I don't know if those prices are mistakes, but they are totally insane. I havent been to the womens side, but for mens, you can find some leather pants at 9200€, some cotton jacket at 6430€, or some basic shirts at 1980€...WTF?!

I hadnt been able to go to the showroom for this SS16 collection, but i don't get what happened with the prices.
What i can see on other website is faaar away from those crazy amounts.
Weird.

[Faust]

I like that it thinks I am shopping from Japan.

[sroreilly]

I just visited the ANN DEMEULEMEESTER's new website (which is quite shitty tbh) and went to the "SHOP" section.
I don't know if those prices are mistakes, but they are totally insane. I havent been to the womens side, but for mens, you can find some leather pants at 9200€, some cotton jacket at 6430€, or some basic shirts at 1980€...WTF?!

I hadnt been able to go to the showroom for this SS16 collection, but i don't get what happened with the prices.
What i can see on other website is faaar away from those crazy amounts.
Weird.

Those prices weren't like that last time I checked maybe a month or so ago. Something must be wrong with the website.