OBSCUR S/S 16 Feed the Machine

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OBSCUR S/S 16

“Feed the machine”

“Like Ouroboros, biting its tail
The organic material stretches
Beyond matter
Mechanical fibres are lingering
In membranes of few
And many
Feed the machine
A few, and then steady
Ouroboros lingering and re-igniting himself
Slow and steady
Machinial supression
Of skin, and leather
Organic
Transforming, they don't linger
Leatherbound snake is feeding off of them
Feed the machine
its tail, it begins and ends
Here”

Poem tells a story / interpretation about the situation of the industry “the machine”, consumerism and how things are following this exponential function into oblivion.

Technical focus on this summer collection has been about working with different laser techniques, and working with different focal points of the laser - hereby some areas has been cut through the entire thickness of the leather, and some areas where the laser has only burnt the leather.

One jacket as featured in images has been perforated with laser in symmetry over the back, as well as the elbows, and a net lining makes this very light.

Thermo-welding has been used on shirts, pants and jerseys to achieve a different kind of feel to the garments.

Vulcanization on sneakers.

Some campaign and lookbook pictures. Photos by Richard Söderberg.

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[Arkady]

Nice, I like this a lot. Good use of the laser without use of a laser becoming the fetishistic focal point.

[Gerber]

the round laser cut looks really trashy. Besides it looks fine - not a fan of the high amount of zippers used tho. was there no paris showroom this time?

[jakubtoronto]

Looks good. I've always liked Richards work with perforated leather for his jackets. Curious what the entire collection looks like.

[radio-aktivität]

the round laser cut looks really trashy. Besides it looks fine - not a fan of the high amount of zippers used tho. was there no paris showroom this time?

Yes.

The geometric circle pattern could be a real nice contrast to the somewhat edgy silhouetts, but - especially on the back of the leather jacket - it looks a little too much arranged in my opinion. I think the slicing on the shoes and the other leather jackets fits better in the concept (yes, it has been seen before).

I’m also not a fan of the turned-up sole construction. There’s that fin-de-siecle horse coach rider (in lack of a better description) look to it that, well, also isn’t quite in the "edgy" direction of the collection.

Some great details though, in particular on the thumbholes of the dress shirt.

Some years ago, I think in 2010, I tried on a blazer in an incredibly dense cotton fabric. It had a hidden hook closure and really high armholes. I’d love if he’d use that fabric again, I loved the harshness of that cut back in the day. I rarely experienced such an armor-like feel in a non-leather garment before.

[timm3h]

I think this sole is fascinating. It looks to me that the sole is actually split into two pieces, with the heel being "floating" so to speak?