Raf Simons Men FW16 Paris

[Defender]

On one hand, the sweaters and coats are so big they look like clown clothes...it's like small kids wearing their dads' clothing.

On the other hand, he has them in pants that are so small they look like dads wearing their sons' clothing.

This creates an even more laughable contrast that falls not only flat but looks atrocious.

Also, the athletic sock with stripes around the top style shoes are also jokingly dumb in a "I see what you tried there, but it looks awful" way.

And putting a scarf through the ripped hole in your sweater neck is about the silliest thing I can imagine someone doing...

I don't know much about Raf, but I can't help but think this isn't the pinnacle of his work. I don't know if it's the nadir, but it has to be closer to that than to the peak.

I made the comment about the models earlier because they look so deadpan and some seriously look like they are thinking "what the hell am i doing here?"

[cjbreed]

I actually... don't have any strong feelings one way or the other. This seems to be Simons' take on New England prep/Ivy trad. Exaggerated proportions on the puffers and sweaters aside, this seems quite conservative for him. I can't tell whether the stripes at the top of those boots are just a removable attachment or not?

its not exactly a powerful message, and the oversized thing is corny as hell. but if the clothes hit the racks in wearable shapes i find it to be cool looking and thats all i want from him. i personally don't like to walk into a room and imagine bowie singing "fashion!" the moment people see me

[Arkady]

they look so deadpan and some seriously look like they are thinking "what the hell am i doing here?"

Raf also looks a bit "what the hell did I just do here?"



Kind of their job to be deadpan since they're models, though.

[jogu]

i personally don't like to walk into a room and imagine bowie singing "fashion!" the moment people see me

this is how i feel too man , specially the older i get . when im on the train or walkin around i see so many guys wearing fashiony fits that are like super edgy and i think to myself like " nahhh ". its kinda hard for me to find clothes that are still different but not like too fashiony . something about this raf collection works for me , its like dress kinda clothes but the oversized collegiate motif looks good as fuck ; cozy, dirty, worn out. imo it stays behind that boundary of being too fashiony but still looks dope .
/hugs raf

[yffet]

Ok oversized thingy i get it.

Kinda looks like Mr. Salad fingers wearing Kurt Cobain sweater.

Nothing bad but not very impressed.

[pita bread]

Silhouette is not too far off from waves, I like it!

[Pumpfish]

One idea. Repeated.

One.

I'm putting this one down to PTSD.

A catharsis.

[ProfMonnitoff]

I wasn't aware that Demna got a third job.

[casem]

I like this, I'm a sucker for preppy gone wrong (why I like Thom Browne too).

Yea, except Raf has been doing this long before anyone knew who Demna was, so it's not a fair critique to accuse Raf of jumping on the Vetements bandwagon, it's really the other way around.

I wasn't aware that Demna got a third job.

[Arkady]

Yeah seriously -- regarding Denma. I think we've grown accustomed to shitting on Raf as he's been doing the same to us for a bit too long.

[ProfMonnitoff]

The timing is a bit too suspicious for it to be a coincidence I think. And Raf's previous Very Big silhouettes, including the wave test stuff, were very different from this.

I will keep shitting on Raf until he shows a great collection. He's one of the greatest of the last few decades, so why should he be applauded for decent work?

[Arkady]

I have an odd inverse where his earlier work did little for me as well, so I'm taking the work at face value.

A lot of 90s revival shite because, as Ian Connor beautifully mangled it, "everyone was so fucking cyber when the Hood by Air phase came in... [l]ike heavy, late 2014 and this year? And now everyone wants to go, like… I don’t know, bro! N*ggas want to wear womenswear clothes."

[jogu]

im sorry but this collection is cute as fuck
also liked the twin peaks soundtrack . thought it was appropriate for the clothes , strange yet familiar

[casem]

I liked it already, but dang this little video from IG really sold me. Looks totally amazing walking down the street.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBAo4KRwxxb/?taken-by=rafsimonsofficial

Also, those boots

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBApJr2wxyG/?taken-by=rafsimonsofficial

[aussy]

Returning to this collection after some thought.

I do like the silhouette in motion. Raf always does A line with skinny pants so well (like his cape looks of seasons past). I also appreciate the self reference in those oversized v neck sweaters (see virginia creeper, though they're far more exaggerated here). The outerwear still falls flat for me (minus the short sleeve coats) and I do wish the sweaters were used in fewer looks, though that's just a critique on presentation. Of course I'd also find this collection more appealing rendered in solids and paired down to fewer looks, but overall I now think its solid.

It feels weird to write, but I feel that Raf is stronger when his references are straightforward and more obvious (and ideally not based in new wave youth, since he's well exhausted that path). A stronger theme throughout the collection lets him more easily subvert it in a meaningful way. SS16's theme, for example, had such potential to be poetic but was manifested in such a strange and undesirable way (though the ad campaign images are still great).

edit: and yes, those boots!