Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ann Demeulemeester Men FW16 Paris

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • curiouscharles
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2008
    • 999

    #46
    Originally posted by casem View Post
    True, but isn't this terrible for business? If the show alienates the customer base they may not even bother to look in store to see if there's anything good. The show should make you look forward to what's going to be in stores (rather than praying that it doesn't look like the runway) otherwise what's the point?

    Concerning gris, I've found it to be a really disappointing line. It's like CDG Homme Deux, really boring business stuff but with a terrible boxy cut. Ann did volume really well in her mainline, but the cut of gris just looks like some cheap stuff from Macy's. I dunno, I bought a shirt on sale for about $200 from gris and when i got it home I realized it basically looks like something from urban outfitters so I took it back the next day.
    Couldn't agree more, re: grise & its previously rather plain persona.

    I'm not sure whether Rafael has only recently taken over design duties for the line, or if he had only recently decided to take the line in a different direction. But, he was very clear with me that he is focusing on classic Ann cuts, silhouettes, & designs - materializing in a sort of collection blanche "lite" at a much lower price point than the mainline.

    The basic suiting and shirting which I previously so strictly associated with the line was still there, so it's hard for me to know whether that was always the focus, or whether buyers who picked it up were to blame for what we saw.

    Either way, it's far from a boring "tailoring" line anymore - as my time spent playing excited dress up with it in the showroom will attest to.

    -

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37852

      #47
      Originally posted by casem View Post
      True, but isn't this terrible for business? If the show alienates the customer base they may not even bother to look in store to see if there's anything good. The show should make you look forward to what's going to be in stores (rather than praying that it doesn't look like the runway) otherwise what's the point?

      Concerning gris, I've found it to be a really disappointing line. It's like CDG Homme Deux, really boring business stuff but with a terrible boxy cut. Ann did volume really well in her mainline, but the cut of gris just looks like some cheap stuff from Macy's. I dunno, I bought a shirt on sale for about $200 from gris and when i got it home I realized it basically looks like something from urban outfitters so I took it back the next day.
      Wait for my Fashion ramblings - their rationale will be revealed
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • casem
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 2590

        #48
        Thanks for the info curiouscharles, sounds good. Since Ann has such a rich and distinct vocabulary, it makes much more sense for grise to be a "classics" line rather than a watered down diffusion line.

        Looking forward Faust!
        music

        Comment

        • Mattiassa
          Member
          • Dec 2014
          • 68

          #49
          Originally posted by naturalalmonds View Post
          Buffalo plaid?!
          But she's done plaid before, just stumbled over this:

          https://www.grailed.com/listings/382...-flannel-shirt

          Comment

          • naturalalmonds
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2013
            • 191

            #50
            Originally posted by Mattiassa View Post
            But she's done plaid before, just stumbled over this:

            https://www.grailed.com/listings/382...-flannel-shirt
            Well my comment was specifically about buffalo plaid (red/black, like a lumberjack shirt). Anyways, I have no idea what season that shirt is from
            I want to do product, I am a product person, not just clothing but water bottle design - Kanye West

            Comment

            • Cantara
              Member
              • Mar 2015
              • 62

              #51
              I understand that he wants to show his own vision but this is just getting bad now... really bad. He should just start his own line separate from Anns name.

              Comment

              • curiouscharles
                Senior Member
                • Jan 2008
                • 999

                #52
                Originally posted by casem View Post
                Thanks for the info curiouscharles, sounds good. Since Ann has such a rich and distinct vocabulary, it makes much more sense for grise to be a "classics" line rather than a watered down diffusion line.

                Looking forward Faust!
                yeah it's quite exciting for such a fan of the classics as me [also i've always been jealous of blanche for this very reason].

                honeslty i 100% ignored the grise section of the showroom the last two seasons, mostly due to its previous direction, and partly due to its separate / rather strict minimums [which now don't exist, woo!].

                -

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  #53
                  One solution is to turn Gris into Blanche. If only they would listen to me!
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • curiouscharles
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2008
                    • 999

                    #54
                    Originally posted by Faust View Post
                    One solution is to turn Gris into Blanche. If only they would listen to me!
                    haha, i make this comment a lot as well.

                    [honestly, i slip as many "gimme men's blanche" comments into each appointment as i can]

                    -

                    Comment

                    • C.R.E.A.M
                      Member
                      • Feb 2015
                      • 53

                      #55
                      Before FW16 mens happened, i was really ok with what sebastien was doing. It took him a few collections to find a balance between his own style and the heritage of Ann and i think he was doing ok. Less poetic and more sexual sure, but having ANN DEMEULEMEESTER written on a tag wasnt a complete nonsense.

                      But now...if this is the direction is taking for the brand it will be without me. Like Glenn Martens with Y/PROJECT, its very difficult to watch.

                      After all i understand that the people who took over the brand want change, but i'm really curious about what were the last words left by Yohan for his brand, and of course those of Ann.

                      Comment

                      • naturalalmonds
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2013
                        • 191

                        #56


                        What was that about the showroom again? If you as a buyer have to edit a collection until it resembles nothing like the runway, what's the point? What are you holding onto there by ignoring much of what they're doing? That doesn't really embody the label in any meaningful way. So at what point do you decide to drop them, because all you're doing now is clinging to shreds of what used to be...
                        I want to do product, I am a product person, not just clothing but water bottle design - Kanye West

                        Comment

                        • AVerdantShore
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2011
                          • 112

                          #57
                          Originally posted by C.R.E.A.M View Post
                          Before FW16 mens happened, i was really ok with what sebastien was doing. It took him a few collections to find a balance between his own style and the heritage of Ann and i think he was doing ok. Less poetic and more sexual sure, but having ANN DEMEULEMEESTER written on a tag wasnt a complete nonsense.

                          But now...if this is the direction is taking for the brand it will be without me. Like Glenn Martens with Y/PROJECT, its very difficult to watch.

                          After all i understand that the people who took over the brand want change, but i'm really curious about what were the last words left by Yohan for his brand, and of course those of Ann.
                          I've already made a few statements to this effect, but I feel very much the same way, about both of these collections, in particular, not having invested much interest in Margiela over the years, for whatever reasons.

                          Comment

                          • sroreilly
                            Junior Member
                            • Jul 2015
                            • 25

                            #58
                            Originally posted by naturalalmonds View Post
                            What was that about the showroom again? If you as a buyer have to edit a collection until it resembles nothing like the runway, what's the point? What are you holding onto there by ignoring much of what they're doing? That doesn't really embody the label in any meaningful way. So at what point do you decide to drop them, because all you're doing now is clinging to shreds of what used to be...
                            I have to disagree with this. Buyers are selecting individual garments that will be hung from racks in stores; the stylists will be ultimately be the consumers. The clothes are the clothes.

                            Comment

                            • akkeri
                              Junior Member
                              • Jul 2012
                              • 29

                              #59
                              Just hideous, truly. I started looking for a saving grace but gave up. This makes me very sad.

                              Comment

                              • clay
                                Senior Member
                                • Sep 2006
                                • 284

                                #60
                                Buffalo plaid, Mohair, Human hair, and terrible colors from 70's . I hate this.
                                However the black in the showroom Faust mentioned, should keep it moving.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X
                                😀
                                🥰
                                🤢
                                😎
                                😡
                                👍
                                👎