F/W 16 Arrivals

[julian_doe]

It is still May, and Rick Owens already released his Preco for Mastodon in the online store:

https://www.rickowens.eu/en/US/men/section/all?f%5Bseasons%5D%5B%5D=153&utm_campaign=28e1de1e30-RICK_OWENS_FW16_M&utm_medium=email&utm_source=RICKOWENS.EU&utm_term=0_037bb349e2-28e1de1e30-218477161

To be honest, I haven't been very active in the discussions about recent collections because I haven't been inspired by most. Although I know this is only the pre-collection, and some of the more interesting pieces will be released later in the season, I didn't see too much in the runway that I found to be as groundbreaking as Rick's previous collections. The plaid that he used for some jackets and knits is pretty awful (in my opinion) and does not coincide with Rick's designs. He had some color blocking during Island with earthy tones which worked amazingly well, but the blood-maroon which started during Moody (I think) was a safe choice of color which has led to an awful consequence in every collection since. Even the atomic yellow from Faun works with Rick's atmosphere far better than this Bottega Veneta crap. And, if I may, plaid worker jackets may be better suited for a Saint Laurent show (which deserve no attention).

At this time, Boris continues to be the only show which catches my interest, even if I would never wear some of the pieces shown on the runway. For example, his latest over-sized coats with detachable sleeves are a garments which I would never purchase for myself, but the way they fit with the mood of Squadron is absolutely amazing. Cheers to Boris.

That is the end of my rant, thank you for your attention.

[beyondthemeans]

I'm in love with that new mountain leather <3.

Other than that I don't really care for anything and must admit you are totally right about those hideous checks and dustolator knits.

[Faust]

The tube way wool coat is gorgeous and those pictures don't do it justice - the black is very deep. I remember it jumping out at me in the showroom. Definitely on a wish list.

[scanner]

And, if I may, plaid worker jackets may be better suited for a Saint Laurent show (which deserve no attention).

At this time, Boris continues to be the only show which catches my interest, even if I would never wear some of the pieces shown on the runway...Cheers to Boris.

* Meanwhile in Spain, Boris is currently working on his latest collection entitled 'Teddy Boy Lumberjacks on the Moon' *

Seriously though, these plaid worker jackets and Burberry long dress shirts are awful. It kind of reminds me of that interview with the owner of Self Edge in which Rick had his assistant buying a supply of buffalo plaid button downs from Flat Head or Iron Heart. I kind of imagine Rick getting home, tired after a long day, putting away his Mainline clothes and throwing on that buffalo plaid shirt he loves.

[julian_doe]

As always, there are pieces that are very nice, especially the tailored coats and jackets. These have pretty interesting patters, and overall tailoring appears to be getting better with each collection. But the architectural similitude which I feel Rick designs used to show is not something which received focus in this collection. Even Cyclops, with it's structured parkas and brutalist tops seemed to pride itself with such design. I believe that it has a lot to do with personal taste, and I just wanted to share my personal opinion. But, I truly feel like this route Rick has taken has disappointed me. I am also bored seeing so many recycled designs (high neck Intarsia, tunic dress shirt).

And scanner, I truly hope that is not Boris's plan, haha. Ann D's runways show also displayed some plaid that was...cringe-worthy.

[scanner]

Personally, I think Rick is right to cater to a wider span of clientele. After reading his interview in 'Interview' magazine, it's obvious that he has his finger on the pulse in the fashion scene and is determined to please not only himself but everyone else and stay in business. I've noticed ever since Hedi Slimane came back onto the scene Rick quickly added a new type of fit into his catalogue (small level tee's and cotton / elastane jeans, Slimmer sneakers, etc.), but the great thing is that he's still giving everyone something to look forward to.. He can give the minimalists the pre-co, he can let loose and experiment with the runway and let the more adventurous have their pick of every single type of design & fit that they hope for, and he can tone everything down with drkshdw and follow whatever current trends are selling in shops. I don't think it's a stretch to imagine that he would love to become a one stop shop for every type of consumer as long as they can appreciate that he has his DNA imprinted into every one of his designs.

[curiouscharles]

great post Scanner, quite agree with your assessment.

Rick has grown to a point where he is able to offer something for everyone.

and, as is often mentioned in conversations between myself & his staff, what makes him so special is his ability to appeal to a wide variety of fashion consumer.

there's no use lamenting Rick's direction - if it's no longer for you, it's no longer for you!

personally his growth has been closely tracking my own, so I've been nothing but increasingly happy with every new collection.

I've never personally been into his wilder / more edgy runway pieces, which is probably why I've never cared for designers like BBS [wearing BBS, that is, have still always appreciated it from a design standpoint].

and, while some might be bored with his "recycled designs", I personally love the fact that the best of his seasonal designs get immortalized in following seasons' pre-collections - as it offers me the opportunity to collect pieces I missed, not to mention in new fabric options [which are typically better / more refined / etc].

anyway, I absolutely can't stand the Italian stores' buying and/or curation [rickowens.eu, antonioli, luisaviaroma], and typically wait to see buys from stores whose taste more closely reflects my own before making judgement [ie - Idol].

not that I need to anymore, mind you - I know exactly what I'm excited for and there's a lot of it this coming season!

[zeebee]

Curiouscharles,

I didn't know the rickowens.eu site was some "Italian store". I assumed it was an official RO site.

[julian_doe]

From a business perspective, sure this is a great move (including designs/colors which cater to a broader multitude). However, expanding his audience and heightening the demand for his clothes has also led to other consequences of business success, such as moving the production of some of his favored creations (leather jackets) to Moldova. Truly, from a personal perspective, I don't care to celebrate this success. I still admire a lot of his work, but am more reluctant now than before to invest in his work as his enthusiasm about craftsmanship and design wane in order to cater to more people.

[curiouscharles]

From a business perspective, sure this is a great move (including designs/colors which cater to a broader multitude). However, expanding his audience and heightening the demand for his clothes has also led to other consequences of business success, such as moving the production of some of his favored creations (leather jackets) to Moldova. Truly, from a personal perspective, I don't care to celebrate this success. I still admire a lot of his work, but am more reluctant now than before to invest in his work as his enthusiasm about craftsmanship and design wane in order to cater to more people.

agree to disagree I suppose!

his wide appeal isn't anything new, these conversations I was referencing mostly occurred over six years ago while I was studying & working in London, or as much as ten years ago while I was working at Komakino in Vancouver.

I don't personally believe Rick has changed any aspect of his design ethos in order to appeal to a broader audience - that appeal has always existed and his growth is a direct result of said appeal [which again, has always been there].

we were selling Rick leather jackets to fashion ignorant dudebro's in Vancouver back in 07/08 who'd walk in wearing Gap jeans & Banana Republic tees - and I don't think that's because Rick was consciously trying to appeal to that sort of client.

there's always just been something about his design sensibilities which appeal to a wide breadth of client, and it was only natural [& fully expected] that he would become the success he is precisely because we were seeing this happen at the retail level even so long ago.

I also don't see how his enthusiasm for design has waned one bit.

as for the leather production thing, yeah that's super sad - and I really don't think we should let that slide...

but that is a direct result of his success & growth, and I definitely hate seeing those sorts of developments occur.

all I can do is voice my discontent with this development in the showroom [and I do, albeit "politely"], and vote with my wallet [ie - never stock any of his leathers until this changes, if ever].

anyway, not necessarily trying to convince you of anything here, just offering my perspective!

the very fact that we're having a conversation about something other than where to kop geobaskets at the cheapest prices is making me quite, quite happy all on its own.

[DudleyGray]

I'm digging the wide pants. It's always nice to see a new dimension to the Rick silhouette and pants are such a huge part of that. I wish the field parka was padded and nonsynthetic. I can't say that I'm bothered by stuff that I don't like. There's so much crap on yoox and I wasn't complaining when that stuff was current season. There's still more Rick pieces that I want than I can afford so it's just whatever, get what I want when I can.

It is strange that the preco is selling so early. I wonder if it's in response to the "instant collection" or the sale season creep.

[gawkrodger]

Yet again, the strongest pieces are the tailoring.

I really like the peacoat

[Faust]

I'm digging the wide pants. It's always nice to see a new dimension to the Rick silhouette and pants are such a huge part of that. I wish the field parka was padded and nonsynthetic. I can't say that I'm bothered by stuff that I don't like. There's so much crap on yoox and I wasn't complaining when that stuff was current season. There's still more Rick pieces that I want than I can afford so it's just whatever, get what I want when I can.

It is strange that the preco is selling so early. I wonder if it's in response to the "instant collection" or the sale season creep.

Actually, I've always loved the cropped wider pants over boots silhouette, I just can't pull it off.

[julian_doe]

agree to disagree I suppose!

his wide appeal isn't anything new, these conversations I was referencing mostly occurred over six years ago while I was studying & working in London, or as much as ten years ago while I was working at Komakino in Vancouver.

I don't personally believe Rick has changed any aspect of his design ethos in order to appeal to a broader audience - that appeal has always existed and his growth is a direct result of said appeal [which again, has always been there].

we were selling Rick leather jackets to fashion ignorant dudebro's in Vancouver back in 07/08 who'd walk in wearing Gap jeans & Banana Republic tees - and I don't think that's because Rick was consciously trying to appeal to that sort of client.

there's always just been something about his design sensibilities which appeal to a wide breadth of client, and it was only natural [& fully expected] that he would become the success he is precisely because we were seeing this happen at the retail level even so long ago.

I also don't see how his enthusiasm for design has waned one bit.

as for the leather production thing, yeah that's super sad - and I really don't think we should let that slide...

but that is a direct result of his success & growth, and I definitely hate seeing those sorts of developments occur.

all I can do is voice my discontent with this development in the showroom [and I do, albeit "politely"], and vote with my wallet [ie - never stock any of his leathers until this changes, if ever].

anyway, not necessarily trying to convince you of anything here, just offering my perspective!

the very fact that we're having a conversation about something other than where to kop geobaskets at the cheapest prices is making me quite, quite happy all on its own.

I appreciate your perspective, and I am sure that you have more experience with his garments than I do. After reading this post, I agree that I may be reaching by saying that this new approach came about simply as a selling point or to appeal to a new audience. Perhaps this is just something different that he is trying. However, the architectural aspect of his garments only seems to be present in those designs he has recycled (hooded parka, tank tops, etc). The new knits and those plaid shirts really don't have an impressive structure or form, and the colors are just not appealing at all (in my opinion).

Once again, I feel this may have more to do with personal taste. I should probably just wait for the full collection to be out in order to talk about it...especially since I am not one who is able to go to the showroom :(

Thank you for discussing this with me!

[dji]

Antonioli has some FW16 collections up for preorder now too.