Rick Owens FALL 2017 READY-TO-WEAR "Glitter"

[Mascarar]

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/f...ear/rick-owens

[Mascarar]

FW17 GLITTER WOMEN’S
THURSDAY 02 MARCH 2017, 18H00
PALAIS DE TOKYO, 13 AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON 75116 PARIS

IF THE MEN’S FALL COLLECTION WAS ABOUT THE SPIRIT OF THE 70S — GLITTER AS DEFIANT FLAMBOYANCE IN REACTION TO TURBULENT TIMES — THE WOMEN’S COLLECTION, WHICH CARRIES THE SAME NAME, IS ABOUT THE GLITTER OF CIVILIZATION.
AFTER PROTEST, ONE’S ATTENTION MIGHT TURN TO PERSONAL BEHAVIOR, AND MAYBE EMBRACING WHAT MAKES US CIVILIZED CAN BE OUR MOST POSITIVE ACT.

CEREMONIES ARE ABOUT GROUPS AGREEING ON CODES OF BEHAVIOR AND COLLECTIVELY COMMITTING TO THEM. UNDER THE MOST CIVILIZED CIRCUMSTANCES, COMMUNITY, RESPONSIBILITY, AND KINDNESS USUALLY TOP THE LIST.

I’VE ALWAYS THOUGHT OF RUNWAY SHOWS AS CONTEMPORARY CEREMONIES. HOW CAN WE USE THEM IN THE MOST POSITIVE WAY? I’M NOT SAYING I HAVE THE ANSWER TO THAT BUT ASKING THAT QUESTION IS THE DIRECTION I WOULD LIKE TO GO.

MITRES, CROWNS, AND VEILS ARE FASHIONED FROM FADED T-SHIRTS AND SWEATSHIRTS; LONG CLOAKS, ROBES, AND CAPES ARE PATCHED TOGETHER FROM PAINTED CANVAS, THICK WOOL MELTON, COWHIDE, AND RAW COTTONS. THIS SUGGESTS AN IMPROVISED PERSONAL SENSE OF FORMALITY AND RITUAL — ARTE POVERA GOWNS TO WEAR IN MICHAEL HEIZER’S CITY.

COATS AND JACKETS ARE EXTENDED WITH WOOLLY BLOBS AND BUTTRESSES WITH SKINNY KNIT SLEEVES EXTENDING TO THE KNEES. DUVETS ARE TWISTED AND KNOTTED AROUND THE BODY AND THEN REPEATED IN NUTRIA AND PEKAN FUR; ROBES PEEL OFF THE BODY AND EXTEND OUT IN CRUMPLED FORMATIONS THAT EXAGGERATE THE PELVIS.

DEEPLY SLIT GOWNS IN PAINTED CANVAS OR SILK MEGA DUCHESSE ARE WORN OVER CASHMERE KNIT BOXERS AND TANKS. SHOES ARE STRETCH SOCK RUNNERS WHICH ARE MY VERSION OF AN OPERA GLOVE COMBINED WITH A SNEAKER.

I WEAR MINE UP TO COVER MY KNEES DURING THE DAY AND SCRUNCHED DOWN AT THE GYM.

I’VE SOUNDTRACKED THIS SHOW TO BEETHOVEN’S PIANO SONATA NO. 3 IN C MAJOR — A GREAT EXAMPLE OF WHAT CIVILIZATION AT ITS BEST SOUNDS LIKE.

MAKEUP MAC COSMETICS AND SAMMY MOURABIT
HAIR DUFFY (STREETERS)
PRODUCTION LA MODE EN IMAGES
MUSIC PIANO SONATA NO. 31 IN A-FLAT MAJOR, OP. 110 AND PIANO SONATA NO. 3 IN C MAJOR, OP. 2, NO. 3 (REMIXED BY JEFF JUDD)

[Faust]

I think this design direction Rick has taken over the past three seasons, unsurprisingly, worked better for the women's show than for men's.

[mrbeuys]

^ Have to agree. Most of the runway stuff for men, while it doesn't leave me cold, does not engage me in the same way the women's does. Which is a nice kind of detachment and more enjoyable than the sometimes heated discussions and pronounced disappointment we used to see here after a new Rick show was posted.
What I do love about Rick, regardless of my like or dislike for any collection, is the perfect soundbite he delivers. It's like he's painting a picture and suddenly it all makes sense: ARTE POVERA GOWNS TO WEAR IN MICHAEL HEIZER’S CITY.
I am sure it's partially post-rationalised, but it's probably still a guiding vision.

[vah]

Really liking the direction he's ventured into the past seasons in general. The contrast I see between menswear and womens is that menswear requires a stronger commitment, whilst there are pieces in the womens collection that can work on their own.
In some ways, I don't see the direction as completely new ideas and changes if one takes his full archive into consideration. There's fragments and ideas from past collections that I think are more crystallised and "verbalised" in a stronger language here, and in Walrus and Mastodon as well.

[stemcell]

ARTE POVERA GOWNS TO WEAR IN MICHAEL HEIZER’S CITY.

That was the line that sold me too.

[DudleyGray]

Can you not call women hos?

[clay]

Kind of leaves me flat. Just does not speak to me. Been out of the loop so I will take a look at the past few seasons for men and women.

[stemcell]

I think this is the least I have ever seen people discuss a Rick collection. Which is telling I guess. I enjoyed it but felt the same way, cyclops or mastodon women's I've watched the videos maybe a thousand times over... I usually also get excited about the women's collection because it feels to me usually like it has some hints to the next men's, but this felt so extremely similar.

I wish some of that hats had been made out of leather, but I know he never wants to take himself too seriously.

I really love look 36, and would consider checking that weird plastic dress tunic as a men's piece. It's hard to tell how slim he cut the shoulder, that's all that really matters, I'm otherwise a pretty small guy. I hope this is one of the last seasons where he styles the majority of pieces falling off. I'd never get tired of seeing some interesting fabric iteration of the seahorse or jumpsuit, but it's gotta actually be on the body to appreciate it.