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  • Ahimsa
    Vegan Police
    • Sep 2011
    • 1878

    How Context Changes Meaning

    by Eugene Rabkin

    "I have a beautiful Undercover perfecto jacket in my closet. It’s made from silky jet-black lambskin and lined in tartan. The genius of its design is the doubling up of every pocket that a usual perfecto has. It’s a great example of Jun Takahashi’s thoughtful quirkiness. I love it, and I almost never wear it. Every time I pull it out of my closet and put it on, I take a quick look in the mirror and hang it back.

    Why am I put off? Because today a perfecto jacket has become a staple of the fuccboi uniform, and I don’t want to be associated with that lowest common denominator of male fashion. Partly it’s vanity, but it’s also more than that. Given the rest of my closet, I am probably in little danger of some bro coming up to me at the Saturday Surf’s coffee line and saying that my jacket is “lit,” but at the end of the day I dress for myself first and foremost, and for me garments carry meaning, and the meaning of the perfecto has changed.

    The perfecto, also called a motorcycle jacket or a rider’s jacket, is a prime example of how context changes that meaning. The original Perfecto was designed in 1928 by Irving Schott and named after his favorite cigar (Schott still holds the pattern for the jacket’s name). The motorcycle was beginning to gain ground as a mode of transportation and as a sport, and like horseback riding and other activities required special clothing that was durable and protective. At the same time a fairly new invention was gaining ground – the zipper. Schott produced the first zippered jacket for riding a motorcycle – it made sense to have a garment that could be opened and closed quickly. He placed the zipper asymmetrically, so it would not cut into a body bent over a motorcycle."

    Full article on sz-mag
    StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store
  • mmsix
    Member
    • Sep 2016
    • 31

    #2
    Thanks for this article.
    I have the feeling that this problem exists with a lot of types of specific garments (for example White High Tops or Slogan Sweatshirts).
    I always wanted a leather jacket growing up and when I finally bought it I never wore it because i didn't want to be associated with the fuccbois. Three years later I took it with me for my travels that has been going on for several months and I was forced to wear it a lot. It fits me so well now that the feeling of wearing it excels the fear that I had of beeing related to a group I don't want to be part of. Glad I was being pushed out of my comfort zone and could make my own personal history with that piece.

    Comment

    • Lex1017
      Senior Member
      • Jul 2015
      • 175

      #3
      Love the article and agree with everything you said. With that said, I push through and wear what I love regardless. My connection with the clothes I wear far outweighs the bad taste in my mouth I get when some fuckhead makes a comment. Haven't had anyone say my raver pants were lit yet though. Pretty bummed :(

      Comment

      • Nickefuge
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2014
        • 860

        #4
        A classic is a classic and will of course be adapted by the masses sooner or later. It will also outlive the fuccbois someday. But not wearing something because of other people is the same as wearing something because of other people – in my book, one must simply stand above it and wear what one wants. There’s no place for vanity in the avant-garde. My advice would be to carry on and don’t give a fuck. In the end it’s all about how you wear it.
        "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
        -Paris Hilton

        Comment

        • upsilonkng
          Senior Member
          • May 2010
          • 874

          #5
          are we in the avant garde? i dont think a perfecto jacket or a ma-1 could ever be considered the Avant Garde, the MA-1 is basically utility military issued and the perfecto is everything Eugene said. do u think wearing geobaskets w/ a snapback and shorts and ma-1 is avant garde? when and how?

          Comment

          • TriggerDiscipline
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2013
            • 859

            #6
            Originally posted by upsilonkng View Post
            wearing geobaskets w/ a snapback and shorts and ma-1
            sounds bad
            Originally posted by unwashed
            Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
            Originally posted by Ahimsa
            I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

            Comment

            • Nickefuge
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2014
              • 860

              #7
              Originally posted by upsilonkng View Post
              are we in the avant garde? i dont think a perfecto jacket or a ma-1 could ever be considered the Avant Garde, the MA-1 is basically utility military issued and the perfecto is everything Eugene said. do u think wearing geobaskets w/ a snapback and shorts and ma-1 is avant garde? when and how?
              I was rather referring to the Avantgarde mindset. Of course the aforementioned outfit wouldn’t fit into this criteria. I think my point came across though.
              "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
              -Paris Hilton

              Comment

              • tornaremavencer
                Member
                • Aug 2012
                • 54

                #8
                This article is like 3 years to late and that phase is already gone. Fuccbois already went through the haider phase, and now are firmly based in the vetements/raf/gosha phase.

                You can now wear your perfecto in piece.

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37849

                  #9
                  Originally posted by tornaremavencer View Post
                  This article is like 3 years to late and that phase is already gone. Fuccbois already went through the haider phase, and now are firmly based in the vetements/raf/gosha phase.

                  You can now wear your perfecto in piece.
                  Where do you live? Because that's all I see in New York, today, day after day. I'd say you are 3 years too early, and are confusing the hypbeasts with fuccbois.

                  Edit: Also, this is really all you got out of the article? That I cannot wear my perfect in peace?
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • mmsix
                    Member
                    • Sep 2016
                    • 31

                    #10
                    In impulse I would also say that there is a different between those two but where exactly do you draw the line? What's your definition for a fuccboi / hypebeast?

                    Comment

                    • Nickefuge
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2014
                      • 860

                      #11
                      Originally posted by mmsix View Post
                      In impulse I would also say that there is a different between those two but where exactly do you draw the line? What's your definition for a fuccboi / hypebeast?
                      To say it with the lingo of our times: a fuccboi is a swagless hypebeast.
                      "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
                      -Paris Hilton

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37849

                        #12
                        Originally posted by mmsix View Post
                        In impulse I would also say that there is a different between those two but where exactly do you draw the line? What's your definition for a fuccboi / hypebeast?
                        I'd say a hypbeast keeps his ear low to the ground and is generally ahead of the curve, while the fuccbois bring up the rear. Or you could go with Nickfudge's definition...
                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

                        • NOHSAD
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2014
                          • 240

                          #13
                          "Thrasher magazine t-shirt worn by people who have never been on a skateboard. Virtually every tween today sports a collar, without the slightest idea of its BDSM connotations"

                          Every time i'm in Manhattan or on the train in the morning, this is what i see from teens and people in their early 20s lately. (mainly the Trasher shirts with jogger pants combo)

                          As for chokers, during my time in HS, wearing one meant you was into punk rock or you knew/was into BDSM, never was a fashion piece. Sadly, it was only a matter of time before it became one.
                          "Instead of feeling alone in a group, it's better to have real solitude all by yourself"

                          ShopDDavis.etsy.com

                          IG: @D.__Dvais

                          Comment

                          • stagename
                            Senior Member
                            • Oct 2011
                            • 497

                            #14
                            Sounds like co-optation theory 101 at first, but what I like is that this brings forth that co-optation can have multiple waves, eg from 1928 schott to Hollywood to pop music to high fashion to hip hop to fuccbois. That's 85 years. If I followed your historicization correctly. I don't have any theory on hand to talk about waves of co-optation, and how the item retains subversive meanings while fitting in with the existing cultural orders to allow for such a long continuous existing and ability to be plugged in so many different, hum, assemblages. Seems it got co-opted and then re-appropriated by subversive subcultures and re-coopted and ... Got me thinking. There might be something to do with this.

                            Comment

                            • Nickefuge
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2014
                              • 860

                              #15
                              I’ve been skating since 1999 and while I do comprehend how some skateboarders are offended by everyone and their mom appropriating skateboarding culture, I just can’t summon the energy to get mad about it. Skateboarding’s popularity has been up and down over the last decades and the trend will eventually fade away just like it has before.
                              "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
                              -Paris Hilton

                              Comment

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