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Rick Owens Men's SS18 - Paris

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  • Arkady
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2011
    • 957

    #16
    Surely something intriguing about this and it does hook me much harder than the past few seasons. Standouts include the all-green leather look, the layered looping tops and the braided carabiner slings.

    Perhaps that intrigue is owed to the collection being more wearable off the runway than recent offerings, but overall there’s a blandness to the tailoring that doesn’t sit well with me as per usual. The organza certainly doesn’t help, nor does the scrotal elephantiasis pant style he can’t seem to leave behind at this mysterious affluent ditch-rave no one is invited to. The cropped jackets are sold in the merch booth there. The footwear is too much for me which is saying a lot; looks like someone tossed Vibskov, Y-3 and a plastic tonka truck in a blender.

    I understand a presentation is a theatrical offering but it’s gotten tough for me to take seriously in his case. Always amusing to read his inspirations as well; I’m sure Rick will delve into this show being inspired by an obscure Lithuanian submarine opera from the 20s but it really just looks like Gigeresque Alien lines refit to cloth and coupled with aimlessly overdone silhouettes. I’ll have to investigate it in motion, but this period in his aesthetic doesn’t communicate any elegance to me.

    Comment

    • stemcell
      Senior Member
      • Jul 2011
      • 261

      #17
      I'm suprised to see very positive reviews here, as well as youtube comment sections. I was very disappointed on first look during the live stream, but after looking longer, reading the press release, and taking a bit more time to absorb it, there's definitely things to appreciate it.

      still feels like a less successful version of cyclops with a lot of unnecessary accessorizing and outlandish shoes. I really miss the strange but more "serious" shoes from crust and anthem etc, before the adidas and plinth boots and these. I mean I just don't know why it is necessary to pair a very extreme, but clearly semi formal pant with absolutely ridiculous and branded sneakers. Imagine how much more clean and luxurious this would look without silly fanny packs and shoes. But of course, he loves to be a little vulgar and "transgressive."

      Always appreciate being challenged though and seeing his constant evolution.

      Favorite looks:
      The tiny single open-strappy tank folded up over the shoulder. And the short double layered glitter tunic.
      The pants are interesting, but I am much more excited about the walrus trousers I just got in the mail today!

      Comment

      • SafetyKat
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2014
        • 169

        #18
        Originally posted by jogu View Post
        collection's growing on me more i review it but im probably in the minority of not really feeling the footwear.
        I feel you. I'm loving the move away from the themes of the past few seasons, but the shoes only work for me being covered up by the wide leg outfits. The scrunched misshapen leather, contrasted with the big blockey soles; Im getting Fisher-Price plastic kids costume vibes...

        Otherwise this is the extraterrestrial/desert kind of direction , Like in his film for the CFDA awards, I want to see the SS seasons explore.

        Comment

        • Aguinaldo
          Junior Member
          • Jan 2017
          • 10

          #19
          I'm looked a lot to fill the iconography mainly in the first look, where we see a green militarism and pieces that may represent some marine animal something of the type, i think is imposing a lot of militarism with this green could have presented other colors for that s / s...gor example bbs that made something more citrus
          My favorite looks are 8-10 I liked this pants, it looks like the kelling joke drummer uses the clip '' love like blood ''also liked the suprematism of the 15 seen a lot in 'limo'. I also miss the shoes featuring for example in 'crust' or 'gleam'.
          These shoes really did not prevent me.
          But the show was cool(no much elegant), the things he sells end up not reflecting in every collection for example the scraping of shoes and other classic pieces.
          Last edited by Aguinaldo; 06-23-2017, 05:47 PM.

          Comment

          • Ahimsa
            Vegan Police
            • Sep 2011
            • 1879

            #20
            StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

            Comment

            • magic
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2009
              • 1404

              #21
              SZ always deliver! Thanks for the great pictures. I think this season is All about exploring fabrication imo. Love the vests and sleeveless jackets as well as in transparent fabric.
              Focusing on object details

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #22
                Originally posted by magic View Post
                SZ always deliver! Thanks for the great pictures. I think this season is All about exploring fabrication imo. Love the vests and sleeveless jackets as well as in transparent fabric.
                Thank you - I am glad you appreciate my humble photography skills.

                Those were my favorite as well. What's more, in the showroom there is an incredible bomber from cotton organza. I really want it, but I swore to myself that I will never buy a bomber.
                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • oulipien
                  Member
                  • Feb 2016
                  • 31

                  #23
                  Originally posted by vah View Post
                  Really liking the shoes. Looks sorta like a weird, future-esque space sneaker-boot thing.
                  My first thought was that the shoes are straight out of manga.

                  Comment

                  • Erich Fromm
                    Member
                    • May 2017
                    • 85

                    #24
                    Originally posted by jogu View Post
                    eh i dont love it but its not bad. theres options for lots of people now ; phat pants (which i still love), short shorts , slimmer cut pants if one doesnt like the rave trash pants . i dislike that turtle green color though. as always i love the luxe technical fabrics. i get that not everyone who wears rick is some old goth and hes got more consumers to entertain that are mainstream and look at his clothes as just "cool high fashion " but id love an all black collection again . all in all its a nice collection with ideas from prior seasons so i appreciate the consistency , i just dont love this like i did moody or mastodon. still, theres quite a few individual pieces that i want. he has a knack for staying rick despite the other stuff sent down runway
                    I have to whole-heartedly agree with jogu on this one. The green is a bit out of place imho and weirdly enough I am hopelessly serching for a completely black collection with a lot of designers this season. While I do like what Boris did (because it was, well, good), Rick and also Julius felt a bit tired for me. I would have loved to be intrigued by interesting cuts, beautiful fabric and intricate construction, but to me it just felt like a new color.

                    Comment

                    • Sufi
                      Member
                      • Jan 2017
                      • 36

                      #25
                      Love it, there's a certain elegance to this collection. The pants, tailoring, silhouettes are all very well done. This may just be Rick's best collection in recent years. Overall, Paris SS18 has been amazing.

                      Comment

                      • magic
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 1404

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Faust View Post
                        Thank you - I am glad you appreciate my humble photography skills.

                        Those were my favorite as well. What's more, in the showroom there is an incredible bomber from cotton organza. I really want it, but I swore to myself that I will never buy a bomber.
                        You deserve the credit sir!

                        I always been looking for the 'right' bomber for years.. A mid length without padded. Hopefully this collection he will offer something similar. What I love about this season was he created so much beautiful and technical fabrics.
                        Focusing on object details

                        Comment

                        • magic
                          Senior Member
                          • Feb 2009
                          • 1404

                          #27
                          MY RECENT ABSORPTION IN LAND ART — ARCHITECTURE UNLEASHED — IS ABOUT THE HUMAN NEED TO TRY TO FIND ORDER IN WILDERNESS... MAYBE AS A FUTILE ATTEMPT TO PUT A MARK ON IT AS A STAB AT IMMORTALITY, OR SIMPLY AS A CHANCE TO CREATE A BEAUTIFUL, PHYSICAL MAN/PLANET UNION.

                          ...AND I ALWAYS THINK OF THE EXPRESSION OF BEAUTY AS THE OPPOSITE OF DEATH. IT COMFORTS ME TO THINK IN BROAD, CRUDE STROKES LIKE THIS...

                          I’VE FOCUSED ON THE SUIT JACKET AS RESPECTFUL UNIFORM, AS A SYMBOL OF CIVILIZATION, AS ELEGANT LUGGAGE, AS PERSONAL ASPIRATIONAL ARCHITECTURE. JACKETS HERE ARE IN A DRY NYLON COTTON THAT HAS THE DULL SHEEN OF SILK DUCHESSE AND THE RUGGEDNESS OF A BACKPACK. SOME BLAZERS ARE CUT LARGE AND ROOMY WITH POCKETS BIG ENOUGH FOR A SANDWICH (ONE OF MY PERSONAL CRITERIA), AND OTHERS ARE CUT TIGHT AND HIGH TO LIFT THE TORSO AND ANY SPIRITUAL ZONE UP AND AT THE READY.

                          TOPS ARE LIKE HAPHAZARDLY DRAPED PLASTIC TARPS WRAPPED AROUND HALF-FINISHED CONSTRUCTIONS... SLICK, SHINY, AND REFLECTIVE BUT CHEAP AND RAW.

                          PANTS ARE HIGH-WAISTED AND FULL IN THE LEG TO DRAG LUXURIOUSLY ON THE GROUND LIKE A BALL GOWN OR HIKED UP TO REVEAL DIRT HIKING BOOTS WITH TRACTOR-TURBO TREAD.

                          CUSTOM DEVELOPED FABRICS INCLUDE:
                          LACQUERED 12OZ DENIM IN INDUSTRIAL BLACK, BLUE, AND GREEN.

                          SUGAR TWILL GERMAN PAPER YARN WOVEN WITH A POLYAMIDE YARN ON A JACQUARD LOOM TO CREATE A DEEPLY TEXTURED, BRITTLE GAZAR TWILL.

                          MATTE CANVAS HIGH TWIST ELASTANE YARN WOVEN ON A NARROW ARTISANAL LOOM WITH MINIMAL FINISHING FOR A DRY, CHALKY HAND.

                          PLASTIC TARP LUREX TAPE WOVEN ON A METAL WARP AND USED IN ITS OFF-LOOM UNFINISHED AND UNSTRETCHED STATE TO CREATE A STIFF, BURNT PLASTIC TEXTURE.

                          SHEER WOOL GAZAR MADE FROM WOOL AND RAW SILK FILAMENT YARN, WASHED AND SUN DRIED.

                          THE PALAIS DE TOKYO, MY FAVORITE BUILDING IN PARIS, FEELS LIKE AN ART DECO WAGNERIAN VALHALLA... I LOVE THE GRAND SYMMETRY OF THE PARVIS WITH THE WINGS OF THE BUILDING STRETCHING AROUND TO EMBRACE THE POOL... I HAVE INSTALLED CONSTRUCTIVIST SCAFFOLDING TO SERVE AS A MONUMENTAL WALKWAY TO TOUR THE FULL HEIGHT AND WIDTH OF IT... IT’S KIND OF A WAY OF CARESSING ITS INNER WALLS AND LICKING EVERY INCH OF A BUILDING THAT’S ONLY PURPOSE IS AS A TEMPLE TO BEAUTY. I WAS THINKING OF VLADIMIR TATLIN’S TOWER SET TO LED ZEPPELIN’S ‘STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN’....

                          BUT THE SOUNDTRACK I KNEW I REALLY WANTED TO USE WAS EGYPTIAN LOVER’S ‘I NEED A FREAK’, ONE OF MY FAVORITE ANTHEMS FROM 1984 LA.... KURTIS BLOW MEETS KRAFTWERK MEETS CAMP. ‘I NEED A FREAK’ — MY TRANSLATION; IN THESE TIMES OF PETTY DISCORD AND ANXIETY I’M LOOKING FOR TRANSGRESSIVE INSPIRATION AND IMAGINATION...

                          MAKEUP MAC COSMETICS AND SAMMY MOURABIT
                          HAIR DUFFY (STREETERS)
                          PRODUCTION LA MODE EN IMAGES
                          MUSIC I NEED A FREAK BY EGYPTIAN LOVER (REMIXED BY JEFF JUDD)
                          Focusing on object details

                          Comment

                          • vah
                            Member
                            • Aug 2016
                            • 66

                            #28
                            Originally posted by magic View Post
                            You deserve the credit sir!

                            I always been looking for the 'right' bomber for years.. A mid length without padded. Hopefully this collection he will offer something similar. What I love about this season was he created so much beautiful and technical fabrics.
                            I got the Glitter Bomber from Walrus, which is cropped and without much padding - so worth taking a look at that.

                            Comment

                            • XIX
                              Junior Member
                              • Nov 2016
                              • 16

                              #29
                              Looks like some of the Dirt SS18 Preco items are up for preorder. I’ll admit it - I’m pretty pleased by the return of the gum sole on the footwear. Looking forward to the more dramatic pieces and silhouettes in later deliveries.

                              https://www.rickowens.eu/en/US/men/s...s%5D%5B%5D=168

                              Comment

                              • Jeroenr
                                Member
                                • May 2016
                                • 88

                                #30
                                Originally posted by XIX View Post
                                Looks like some of the Dirt SS18 Preco items are up for preorder. I’ll admit it - I’m pretty pleased by the return of the gum sole on the footwear. Looking forward to the more dramatic pieces and silhouettes in later deliveries.

                                https://www.rickowens.eu/en/US/men/s...s%5D%5B%5D=168
                                Yeah, looking forward to see whats coming more. Checked it really quick and didnt see that much new, inspiring pieces.
                                I loved the runway show.

                                Comment

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