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Why Supreme Isn’t Cool Anymore, Not That Anyone Cares

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  • Ahimsa
    Vegan Police
    • Sep 2011
    • 1879

    Why Supreme Isn’t Cool Anymore, Not That Anyone Cares

    by Eugene Rabkin

    "When Supreme started making clothes in 1994, its ethos was crystal clear. It was a downtown skate brand for downtown skaters. The clothes were made for the cool kids by the cool kids, and you had to know about it to know about it. Supreme’s reputation traveled by word of mouth, the most reliable marker of a brand’s street cred. Like much of cult phenomena, it was a kind of a secret handshake, a signifier of belonging to a certain group. If you wore Supreme, just like if you wore say a black leather jacket or a pair of combat boots, you signaled a collection of cultural values that attracted like-minded people, a good way to make friends. What were those values? A big part of it, I think, was about opting out of bourgeois society, out of both its taste and value systems, visually through clothes that looked markedly different, and that also signaled that you don’t buy into conformity, blandness, the gray existence of the society’s majority.

    Fast-forward to today and Supreme looks vastly different. It’s become one of the most desirable brands of the fashion elite, of mass-taste celebrities, and of a myriad of Instagram starlets whose only job consists of photographing their impossibly toned bodies at far-flung locales. Walk around SoHo today and you are bound to run into some ditsy model with pouty lips in a Supreme top. The result is the erasure of most, if not all meaning that Supreme has previously held. I’d wager that most people who wear Supreme today have never been on a skateboard. The brand’s coolness now derives solely from the scarcity of its product and of bragging rights one acquires by owning something others do not. No one is immune from this type of narcissism, greatly exacerbated by Boastogram, but I would imagine that a Kardashian-wannabe type is much less so than a kid trying out a new skate trick.

    Supreme was never meant to be democratic – exclusivity is the point of a cult brand, and James Jebbia’s claim that “We’re a brand for the people,” rings hollow. Target is for the people, Supreme is not. But its exclusivity used to depend on insider knowledge. In today’s social media and e-commerce-driven culture insider knowledge is largely a thing of the past. Growing up in an immigrant Brooklyn in the 90s, I certainly did not know what Supreme was, though it was only a train ride away (I was an avid skater in Russia, but I stopped skating when I immigrated to the States). Today, in the same neighborhood kids wear Supreme in my daughter’s middle school, and I haven’t spotted a single deck amongst them."

    Full article on SZ-MAG
    StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store
  • Anton
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2014
    • 261

    #2
    "The brand’s coolness now derives solely from the scarcity of its product and of bragging rights one acquires by owning something others do not."

    "Since it exploded in popularity, Supreme’s adamant approach to limiting its offerings has unintentionally backfired, spawning a vast secondary market with greatly inflated prices. The result is that Supreme’s exclusivity is now largely a function of how much money you have."

    Definitely agree with this, the question is though what can a brand do to avoid this?

    Supremes collaborations and decisions are definitely against what they've stood for in the beginnings, but is it even possible today for a brand to exist in the unique space they've been in when they started? With the internet and online consumption, it seems that it's not possible to be in that space for long, maybe now it's reserved for temporary projects.

    Despite having the best intentions when starting, once the public notices the brand and that it's limited, quite fast people might start buying the clothes just to resell them, what do you do next?
    I love beautiful melodies, telling me terrible things.
    My Music: https://soundcloud.com/iamanton

    Comment

    • Lex1017
      Senior Member
      • Jul 2015
      • 175

      #3
      Don't worry posters of New York, YM BAPE has got you.



      On a more serious note I completely agree with the article. Unfortunately the internet has freed lazy rich people from the confines of their local mall. People can now sit on their ass and have all the stuff you used to have to travel/wait/search for. Funny that even with all Supreme's success they didn't have an official skate team until 2014. Made fuck loads of money before even having to pay a roster OF SKATERS.
      Last edited by Lex1017; 09-10-2017, 10:53 PM.

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #4
        Originally posted by Anton View Post
        "The brand’s coolness now derives solely from the scarcity of its product and of bragging rights one acquires by owning something others do not."

        "Since it exploded in popularity, Supreme’s adamant approach to limiting its offerings has unintentionally backfired, spawning a vast secondary market with greatly inflated prices. The result is that Supreme’s exclusivity is now largely a function of how much money you have."

        Definitely agree with this, the question is though what can a brand do to avoid this?

        Supremes collaborations and decisions are definitely against what they've stood for in the beginnings, but is it even possible today for a brand to exist in the unique space they've been in when they started? With the internet and online consumption, it seems that it's not possible to be in that space for long, maybe now it's reserved for temporary projects.

        Despite having the best intentions when starting, once the public notices the brand and that it's limited, quite fast people might start buying the clothes just to resell them, what do you do next?
        What you do is what I said, shut it down. It's the only logical conclusion. Now, I understand that it's asking for a lot. But, Jebbia does not need money, I am sure he's a multimillionaire. And it WOULD be totally hardcore if he did it with an accompanying statement. He's 56. Let some young kids into the breach, let them make a new brand, fresh blood, etc.
        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • Ahimsa
          Vegan Police
          • Sep 2011
          • 1879

          #5
          It reminds me a bit of the skate magazine Big Brother. There's a pretty good documentary about it on Hulu called Dumb. Essentially what happened was that once it reached mainstream attention it became scrutinized under the public eye and they ended up getting bought out by Larry Flynt (Hustler magazine) due to the extreme content nature. They ultimately shut down after their main content creators went on to form the Jackass television series crew. The issue with Supreme is that there was no progression in terms of direction, rather it feels like a dragged on TV series such as The Simpsons, whereas you have Seinfeld that logically ended the show on a good note without letting the series lose it's authenticity. I feel like he should have taken a bow and started something that's truer to the original intentions once it hit that mark but I guess the money is just way too good, hence there's a betrayal of integrity at this point so I think anything new he might create would be subject to being seen as inauthentic. (not looking to bring up another philosophical debate on what makes something authentic...)
          StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

          Comment

          • DudleyGray
            Senior Member
            • Jul 2013
            • 1143

            #6
            I don't think Supreme ever was cool. Hip, relevant, sure, but not cool. It's always been a "cool by association" brand, which is definitely not cool. Did they get where they are from innovative design or saying something that hadn't been said? No, the brand just aligned themselves with pop subculture and its icons, and their followers followed suit and aligned themselves with the brand, but nothing of substance was ever produced.

            With someone like Rick or Boris or whomever, sure there are people who see rich cool kids wearing that stuff and who want to be associated with rich cool kids, but there was and is something of substance at work in the design that makes people want to wear and experience that thing that is different. I guess Supreme had some nice quality backpacks? But look at CdG; Rei can do whatever the fuck she wants, from Instagram logos made in China to overpriced Cons and t-shirts, but as long as she's putting out legit runway collections, who would dare call her a sellout?

            Supreme is identity by association, run-of-the-mill vulgar consumerism, nothing exceptional except exclusivity for its own sake, which is just bullshit. If exclusivity is involved, there has to be some divisive content driving it. Maybe for something like Chanel, that line is just socioeconomic, and for Haider, there's decadent lechery. But "hey, I like stuff that's cool, I'm in the know (just like every other person on the internet)," that's not cool.
            bandcamp | facebook | youtube

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #7
              I think you are treating it as a fashion brand, Dudley, which I wouldn't. It's streetwear. I do think it was cool when it started. There's never been much design there, I don't think that was the point.
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • jap808
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2012
                • 377

                #8
                Mixing both the "Supreme" article with the "Rockband t-shirt" article -> I got a couple of things from Supreme that I regularly wear with pride: the Lee Scratch Perry tee and the Geto Boys tee.
                This because both celebrate some of my musical idols, with a little bit of poshy-ness.

                As for the rest, I totally agree with the article.

                Plus, here in Italy there is an (almost) illegal brand called "Supreme Italia" (?!?!?!) worn by every fuccboi and instagram wannabes that makes the situation even worst (if possible):
                this people do not wear orginal "Supreme" tees because they've seen some Instagram celebrities; this people wear fake "Supreme Italia" (aka "Supreme Barletta" from the town where this "brand" was born) tees without even knowing there is a real "Supreme" brand
                http://www.nssmag.com/it/fashion/926...de-in-barletta (italian only)


                Originally posted by Faust View Post
                What you do is what I said, shut it down. [...] And it WOULD be totally hardcore if he did it with an accompanying statement. He's 56. Let some young kids into the breach, let them make a new brand, fresh blood, etc.
                At this point, he'll be the most hardcore of the hardcore, if he sells "Supreme" to... "Supreme Italia/Barletta" :-D

                Comment

                • stagename
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2011
                  • 497

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Faust View Post
                  What you do is what I said, shut it down. It's the only logical conclusion. Now, I understand that it's asking for a lot. But, Jebbia does not need money, I am sure he's a multimillionaire. And it WOULD be totally hardcore if he did it with an accompanying statement. He's 56. Let some young kids into the breach, let them make a new brand, fresh blood, etc.
                  He could be positioning himself for just that, milking out the brand for all its worth as his retirement plan. Sounds like a sound exit strategy (in contrast to selling it, for example).

                  Comment

                  • Nickefuge
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2014
                    • 860

                    #10
                    Originally posted by stagename View Post
                    He could be positioning himself for just that, milking out the brand for all its worth as his retirement plan. Sounds like a sound exit strategy (in contrast to selling it, for example).
                    If this was true, his new brand’s name (NOAH) would appear in a totally new light, haha.
                    "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
                    -Paris Hilton

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nickefuge View Post
                      If this was true, his new brand’s name (NOAH) would appear in a totally new light, haha.

                      That's not his brand but someone who used to work for him
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • Nickefuge
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2014
                        • 860

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Faust View Post
                        That's not his brand but someone who used to work for him
                        Ah damn, got that mixed up.

                        While we´re talking about Supreme: I have a new project called "Regular Products". Using Photoshop I remove Supreme logos off of Supreme objects and accessories leaving behind plain and boring items — regular products, so to speak. This way I „peel” away the hype and challenge the viewers to question their longing for these products.

                        The whole thing is rather simple and boring, but that’s the whole idea.

                        Here's the link to the project.
                        "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
                        -Paris Hilton

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37852

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Nickefuge View Post
                          Ah damn, got that mixed up.

                          While we´re talking about Supreme: I have a new project called "Regular Products". Using Photoshop I remove Supreme logos off of Supreme objects and accessories leaving behind plain and boring items — regular products, so to speak. This way I „peel” away the hype and challenge the viewers to question their longing for these products.

                          The whole thing is rather simple and boring, but that’s the whole idea.

                          Here's the link to the project.
                          That is cool! Reminds me of something the designer of Hender Scheme did years ago as an art project where he removed the polo player from the polo shirt. I did this exercise with my Parsons students with a similar exercise to remove the power of branding from mundane products - a polo shirt is also the example that I used.
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • stagename
                            Senior Member
                            • Oct 2011
                            • 497

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Nickefuge View Post
                            Ah damn, got that mixed up.

                            While we´re talking about Supreme: I have a new project called "Regular Products". Using Photoshop I remove Supreme logos off of Supreme objects and accessories leaving behind plain and boring items — regular products, so to speak. This way I „peel” away the hype and challenge the viewers to question their longing for these products.

                            The whole thing is rather simple and boring, but that’s the whole idea.

                            Here's the link to the project.
                            You could take this to the instagram, expand the brands and and tag the focal brands...

                            Comment

                            • Faust
                              kitsch killer
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 37852

                              #15
                              Originally posted by stagename View Post
                              You could take this to the instagram, expand the brands and and tag the focal brands...
                              I sent it High Snob yesterday, and they posted it on their site and social media.
                              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                              Comment

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