Boris Bidjan Saberi Men's FW18

[href:90a7]

Thoughts from everyone?

https://nowfashion.com/boris-bidjan-saberi-menswear-fall-winter-2018-paris-23633

[Campe92]

There's no very big changes from the previous collections, but i'm still in love with his works!! i really like the purple dyeing and i'm curious to see some closer pictures about the new shoes. About the show it was nice, both for runway organization (models "stop" at the end) and music.

[13we2]

Glad to see man's going back to his nomadic roots (most predominantly exemplified in AW1213) with refined detailing/shapes/tech mix. Oh my that purple...

[matglenn]

I'm overcome with joy for the skis and snowboards. I hope the price is not too inflated, i'd love to pick up the skis, also I hope they're twin tips. Overall strong collection as one would expect, I'm enjoying the development of the Salomon collaborations. The snowboard boots are pretty funny, I wonder if there will be ski boots in the future.

[goldsamxo]

Favorite collection of Paris so far. Boris always continues to evolve his line, which is beautiful to see with many brands shedding their skin and trying something new (looking at you _7). Happy with this, the coloring (that purple was beautiful) and very content with how the Salomon line is progressing, the new Bamba-esque shoe (Bamba3??) will be a day one purchase.

[k3mist]

love how he does color but yeah cant say its very 'new' but still like it.

[TheInformalGenius]

I was extra excited to see this collection. Paganism... The name of the collection sparks so must emotion inside my mind. I like the deliverance of the colors he chose for this run

[Bulletiquette]

Does anyone else find the work becoming repetitive, almost to the point of feeling regressive? Someone mentioned above a tangential relationship to a prior collection's 'nomadic' themes - from a period in which Boris' aesthetic expressions, having not exactly found their footing yet, were closer to a Damir Doma derivative than anything else.

I have noticed that, collectively, those who are interested in these things seem to be assured by the idea of a revisionist ideal - a slow, but considered, evolution. I understand why the markers for such an ideal are appealing but at the same time I worry that it has clouded a particular criteria. That criteria best summed up by Carol Christian Poell stating that a designer's role should be to always 'astonish'.

When examined in comparison with, say, a designer like Rick Owens this lack of astonishment in Boris' most recent collections seems to become increasingly apparent. Rick Owens' method had always been one of peering inside of itself and in many ways had been a revision on past executions but there is always kind of revolution sewn in alongside it, culminating in an eventual leap forward. Whether or not these leaps have been successful is up to interpretation but it is hard to deny there is something both admirable in its courage and essential in its purpose.

I understand there are 'new' pieces in this Boris collection but they feel redundant in the face of their overwhelmingly familiar gestalten forms. All I can really see here is a new coat of paint (this time a malaise inducing purple).

[Nomadic Planet]

having a quick look to yesterday show, I could swear this stuff is from previous collections.... so yes, Boris is a slow evolver.... HOWEVER it's undeniable the strength and depth of his work, truly amazing vibe and beauty. The guy is a genius. As I increasingly grow tired of Rick, disappointed in Tastsuro, my happiness finds growing roots in Boris's work.

In a world changing too fast and too furious, it's soothing to perceive the calmness and stability of BBS. If Julius goes to hell, Rick sells out or becomes uninspired, all my hopes rest in this guys work. I love BBS.

[Ahimsa]

View the collection on SZ-MAG

[Smythson85]

Agree . No new designs unlike rick owens. Bbs is so dull and boring. It used to be my favourite brand not anymore now

[Arkady]

Does anyone else find the work becoming repetitive, almost to the point of feeling regressive? Someone mentioned above a tangential relationship to a prior collection's 'nomadic' themes - from a period in which Boris' aesthetic expressions, having not exactly found their footing yet, were closer to a Damir Doma derivative than anything else.

I have noticed that, collectively, those who are interested in these things seem to be assured by the idea of a revisionist ideal - a slow, but considered, evolution. I understand why the markers for such an ideal are appealing but at the same time I worry that it has clouded a particular criteria. That criteria best summed up by Carol Christian Poell stating that a designer's role should be to always 'astonish'.

When examined in comparison with, say, a designer like Rick Owens this lack of astonishment in Boris' most recent collections seems to become increasingly apparent. Rick Owens' method had always been one of peering inside of itself and in many ways had been a revision on past executions but there is always kind of revolution sewn in alongside it, culminating in an eventual leap forward. Whether or not these leaps have been successful is up to interpretation but it is hard to deny there is something both admirable in its courage and essential in its purpose.

I understand there are 'new' pieces in this Boris collection but they feel redundant in the face of their overwhelmingly familiar gestalten forms. All I can really see here is a new coat of paint (this time a malaise inducing purple).

It's an engineering company, not a fashion company. The evolution of the design is sophisticated and subtle; seasonal color choice is decoration for the underlying advances. Every season's version of staple pieces is a bit more refined, more durable, more accommodating to form or more flexible in configuration -- even if it's not immediately apparent. Stirrup loops are a good example.

There is also the simple reality of demand -- while BBS and BBS 11 are fashion brands with an expectation of seasonal novelty, the market has responded very favorably to the deliberate engineering process. This is not some "look at da big pants their inspired by 30s submarine operas" bullshit.

Not say bullshit doesn't have an important place of its own!

[13we2]

But I think the problem is that he simply can't. He can't be that versatile and fast-evolving. Think of all the other niche brands usually considered to represent an artisanal take, most of whom don't do (and I think indeed not suitable for having) runways - then you'd find BBS probably to be the least stagnant. Given their abiding design conceptions and very specific manufacturing techniques/treatments, I think it's just objectively difficult for them to be chameleons like first year fashion design students. He just doesn't lay as much stress on newness as on depth and detailing of his work. I thought this kind of stagnancy should be the very reason you made BBS a favourite brand. May not be an adequate analogy but it's like saying I used to love Mona Lisa so much but as I've looked at it too many times I started to grow bored and out of it. You know the fan boy fast-fashion vs anti-fast-fashion kind of thing.

Edit: Arkady, didn't see your post when I was writing mine but yeah that's what I'm also trying to say.

[Bernd Lauert]

It's an engineering company, not a fashion company. The evolution of the design is sophisticated and subtle; seasonal color choice is decoration for the underlying advances. Every season's version of staple pieces is a bit more refined, more durable, more accommodating to form or more flexible in configuration -- even if it's not immediately apparent. Stirrup loops are a good example.

There is also the simple reality of demand -- while BBS and BBS 11 are fashion brands with an expectation of seasonal novelty, the market has responded very favorably to the deliberate engineering process. This is not some "look at da big pants their inspired by 30s submarine operas" bullshit.

Not say bullshit doesn't have an important place of its own!

I think that is a very dangerous argumentation your are following there.

I do agree tho, that with every season his pieces are becoming a little better.

But in reverse that also means, that the same item from last season is less refined,less durable etc. than this seasons version. And the one from the season before is again a little worse and so on.
This leads to two conclusions. The stuff from past seasons is not at the quality level it could/should be (since it is now), which could end up in a serious price and quality discussion.
And secondly, I am asking myself why to buy now and not wait another season, since there will be a better and more refined version at the next PFW?

The so called reality of demand in my eyes is nothing more than the Iphone phenomenon:
A company invents a great piece of product. The P13, the ninja hoodie, pod shorts or the Iphone I referred to.
The product will be re-release every season/year with minor changes, which make it much better than before. In many cases, this triggers demand instead of feeding it.

Additionally this might cause some serious problems at the creative side: Something makes money so you invest more money and time to make this product better and still demandable in the future. A company with limited resources might switch too many assets on refining things instead of inventing new product.

Don't get me wrong. I like his stuff for many season but it feels like all he is doing is milking the cow instead of breading new ones.... (yeah odd analogy)

Oh and don't forget that the reason why items in the fashion industry have the tendency to become more refined and durable with the next season, is the fact that they don't get tested enough. There is simply not enough time for it. Invention - showcasing - producing.

A great example are the 11 by BBS zipper straps. Seasons ago they came up with it. Great idea looks cool. So they tie them around the end of the zipper. Too bad they fall off and get lost. Well, they didn't at the atelier, because the usual 10 meter walk in front of the mirror does not represent reality.
Customers complain and now season later they can't fall off anymore.
Now you can argue how great the new zipper straps are because they don't fall off anymore but in reality they should have been like that all the time....

I know this is not so much about BBS and more about the industry as a hole but I simply couldn't resist to give my input....

[Arkady]

Yeah mate, to be honest you're just describing large-scale production and marketing on planet Earth.