Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men's FW18

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Ahimsa
    Vegan Police
    • Sep 2011
    • 1879

    #16
    Originally posted by Bernd Lauert View Post
    A great example are the 11 by BBS zipper straps. Seasons ago they came up with it. Great idea looks cool. So they tie them around the end of the zipper. Too bad they fall off and get lost. Well, they didn't at the atelier, because the usual 10 meter walk in front of the mirror does not represent reality.
    Customers complain and now season later they can't fall off anymore.
    Now you can argue how great the new zipper straps are because they don't fall off anymore but in reality they should have been like that all the time....
    Umm. I'm fairly positive most other designers do the exact opposite of this. Such as Rick's pink geobasket sole issue and switching from raccagni zippers to YKK, not to mention switching a lot of production to Moldova. So BBS progressively producing better quality clothing is bad how? You can't just produce the best quality product and be done with it, that's not how technology or industry works.

    I'm using Rick as an example as you were comparing the two. I would also state that Rick's major source of revenue is from new iterations of exactly the same products he's been making forever. No one is actually wearing most of what you're seeing go down his runway. Most people are just buying new versions of the geo jacket, etc. So pretty much exactly what you're complaining about BBS doing.
    Last edited by Ahimsa; 01-19-2018, 01:41 PM.
    StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

    Comment

    • cloakroom
      Junior Member
      • Mar 2015
      • 21

      #17
      Smythson85,Exactly the same feeling here. I don't see anyone wearing BBS with a new silhouette or even with silhouettes like seen on the runway. Rick has become hypebeast stuff, BBS now is the same as Rick a few years ago with predictable reactions for critics. I don't have the chance to see and feel the collection in the showroom, the clothes will be fascinating considering fabrics and seams (yawn) but other (japanese) designers are so much more challenging and refreshing, than tight jeans tucked in boots and leggings with sneakers for almost 10 years now.

      Comment

      • Arkady
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2011
        • 957

        #18
        I like how you agree with Smythson that there are "No new designs unlike rick owens," then indicate BBS is still sending new silhouettes down the runway but no one is buying them, and conclude by saying you haven't even handled the product.

        Clearly owed to the designer's lack of prowess and not consumers buying pedestrian silhouettes -- or apparently just not experiencing, understanding or taking interest in them except for armchair pontification.

        With clients like these, who needs detractors :D
        Last edited by Arkady; 01-19-2018, 03:18 PM.

        Comment

        • Ahimsa
          Vegan Police
          • Sep 2011
          • 1879

          #19
          Originally posted by cloakroom View Post
          Smythson85,Exactly the same feeling here. I don't see anyone wearing BBS with a new silhouette or even with silhouettes like seen on the runway. Rick has become hypebeast stuff, BBS now is the same as Rick a few years ago with predictable reactions for critics. I don't have the chance to see and feel the collection in the showroom, the clothes will be fascinating considering fabrics and seams (yawn) but other (japanese) designers are so much more challenging and refreshing, than tight jeans tucked in boots and leggings with sneakers for almost 10 years now.
          "Even though I've only had the appetizers at Ippudo ramen, and because I don't like the Instagrams of the people who eat there, I prefer the taste of Ivan Ramen." Is basically what I just heard from that sentence.
          StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

          Comment

          • cloakroom
            Junior Member
            • Mar 2015
            • 21

            #20
            I read Shucks in your reaction. My only chance to judge collections now is how they look, so I made my point clear to judge what's boring on one side and fascinating on the other.

            Comment

            • Bulletiquette
              Junior Member
              • Jul 2011
              • 5

              #21
              Originally posted by Arkady View Post
              It's an engineering company, not a fashion company. The evolution of the design is sophisticated and subtle; seasonal color choice is decoration for the underlying advances. Every season's version of staple pieces is a bit more refined, more durable, more accommodating to form or more flexible in configuration -- even if it's not immediately apparent. Stirrup loops are a good example.

              There is also the simple reality of demand -- while BBS and BBS 11 are fashion brands with an expectation of seasonal novelty, the market has responded very favorably to the deliberate engineering process. This is not some "look at da big pants their inspired by 30s submarine operas" bullshit.

              Not say bullshit doesn't have an important place of its own!
              BBS should not be critically siloed from brands like Rick Owens just because it takes a less progressive approach to design. BBS engages in most of the same codified aspects of 'fashion' that Owens' does, after all.

              Perhaps a more pertinent comparative example of the lack of conceptual headway being made with Boris' work would be Maurizio Altieri. Altieri being the progenitor of this niche's fetishised ideal of the artisan tinkering away in his workshop intensely focused on the minutia.

              To put it simply, the classic Cdiem leather shirt was a market success with many stocked and sold all over the world (you still see a multitude of them hanging around on yjp to this day). An easy, and market appropriate, solution would have been to simply continue pumping out these shirts iteratively, content to rest on his laurels. The Lmaltieri work would have slowly progressed alongside this and he would be considered a successful designer, no doubt. Instead he took a leap-of-faith and created the work known as Linea - garments that were so impossibly progressive that many retailers at the time would have struggled to integrate them with their offerings. As Carol Christian Poell had put it, Altieri had fulfilled his duty to astonish.

              This ability to astonish and to create things that are fundamentally new within ones own conceptual aesthetic parameters is of paramount importance. In the long run, pumping out iterations of a particular pair of jeans (yes, even with the innovation of stirrups) isn't going to be fulfilling for either Boris' design team or the purchasers of his products.
              Last edited by Bulletiquette; 01-20-2018, 07:13 PM.

              Comment

              • Arkady
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2011
                • 957

                #22
                Never said BBS takes a less progressive approach to design than RO -- I said it places more emphasis on function when it comes to the evolution of staple mainline pieces. Nor are durability and modularity minutia when we're talking about high-performance apparel, regardless of which niche it falls into.

                Astonishment is not mutually exclusive with iterative engineering and I don't think BBS is in any way failing to deliver the sublime. Some of the more beguiling silhouettes are difficult to achieve due to rarity and cost, but they are always on offer.

                It's kind of funny to comment on someone's "critical siloing" and then do it yourself in the next paragraph. A lot of people giving valuable advice on how to think in this thread without even reading others' posts.

                Comment

                • TheInformalGenius
                  Member
                  • Oct 2015
                  • 95

                  #23
                  Does anyone know what pants Boris is wearing. Photo 24 (Last photo when he makes his appearance)

                  Comment

                  • Arkady
                    Senior Member
                    • Apr 2011
                    • 957

                    #24
                    Believe they're just P13s with the pinroll?

                    Comment

                    • negroygris
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2013
                      • 270

                      #25
                      Originally posted by Arkady View Post
                      Believe they're just P13s with the pinroll?
                      Yes they are, i believe these are the ones with the band that is used for tapering.
                      We hope that people will begin to see beyond the superficial surface of things and understand that there is far more to a design than just the way it looks on the outside.

                      -GEOFFREY B. SMALL

                      Comment

                      • TheInformalGenius
                        Member
                        • Oct 2015
                        • 95

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Arkady View Post
                        Believe they're just P13s with the pinroll?

                        thanks a lot

                        Comment

                        • darkart
                          Senior Member
                          • Jun 2011
                          • 153

                          #27
                          Originally posted by TheInformalGenius View Post
                          thanks a lot
                          That's definitely not P13. That's the new model since FW17, P15. You can still get them from darklands. Super low crotch wide leg pants with pinroll or that band thing.

                          Comment

                          • TheInformalGenius
                            Member
                            • Oct 2015
                            • 95

                            #28
                            Originally posted by darkart View Post
                            That's definitely not P13. That's the new model since FW17, P15. You can still get them from darklands. Super low crotch wide leg pants with pinroll or that band thing.
                            The only thing I see on DL that may possibly fit the description are the P6. They seem to be adequate for what I'm looking for. Aiming for the low crotch and baggier fit. Thanks for your help.

                            Comment

                            • 13we2
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2015
                              • 226

                              #29
                              Haven't seen anyone carry this one yet. Not sure what code they gave it but from the sample pics the legs are much wider than the p15 from fw17 (which are cropped length). If you are aiming for low crotch and baggy, try p1, p2(?), p6, and the now popular p10 jogger of course... anyway most baggy pants they make are all low crotch.

                              Comment

                              • Arkady
                                Senior Member
                                • Apr 2011
                                • 957

                                #30
                                I think they might be BBS?

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X
                                😀
                                🥰
                                🤢
                                😎
                                😡
                                👍
                                👎