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Fashion Week Ramblings - F/W 2018 Men’s - Part 2, Showrooms

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  • Ahimsa
    Vegan Police
    • Sep 2011
    • 1879

    Fashion Week Ramblings - F/W 2018 Men’s - Part 2, Showrooms

    by Eugene Rabkin

    "My first showroom visit was to Boris Bidjan Saberi, where I got to examine closely those tubelike garments that he put on the runway two days prior. These were padded and warm, and came with straps that could be worn over the shoulder. There were also hooded garments that sort of worked like bulletproof vests – you’d have to put them on over your had and adjust the straps on the side. Not the most practical thing, but if you are willing to make an effort, it will work. The purple dyes were rich and ranged from a deep hue on the leathers to a grayish one on tops and parkas that were more subtle and would work very well with black. There were boots with the outside zip and cut out sole in an off-white leather and variations on the Solomon sneaker, as per usual. I continue to love the light gray, bordering on oatmeal, that Saberi offers in his knits.

    It was a pleasure to examine Haider Ackermann’s creations up close to see how the gold-and-white vine embroidery was done. There was also embroidery that resembled cracked glass, rendering the sweatshirts and tees stylishly damaged. I also loved the olive shirt-jacket and the cropped olive jacket, and of course those long coats with removable lining. The hoodies with forgettable slogans were an afterthought, and I truly wish designers like Ackermann would not yield to temptation to produce such laziness. I don’t mind him doing sweatshirts and sweatpants when he puts his mind to it, but these seemed superfluous to an otherwise stellar array of offerings. Obviously, every store will buy them.

    At Ann Demeulemeester I got the same reaction I’ve been getting for the past several years. Even if I love the show there is something amiss at the showroom. I can’t quite put my hand on what it is exactly in full, but there are some elements I can point out – the lack of asymmetry, Ann’s favorite design device, and mostly oversized shapes with large padded shoulders. To put it simply, taken apart off the runway, a lot of the stuff could be worn by a banker on the weekend, and no one would be the wiser. Most of the rock’n’roll vibe comes from the styling. Even the archive pieces that have been reissued this time are the most simple ones. To be sure there is better stuff in there (I wish they’d let me in!). On the bright side, there were some beautiful wools in there, and excellent accessories, like studded wallets and such. The stand out piece for me was the shearling jacket with jagged edges that closed with strings. It was fabulous on all accounts, an update on a Demeulemeester classic.

    On Sunday I visited the sprawling Rick Owens showroom. The runway stuff was a mixed bag, though I particularly liked the oversized-oversized parkas in mohair and those overly long coats without collars that closed with metal snaps on the chest. The Birkenstock collaboration – no comment, but I liked the tractor sole boots, especially the all black version. They are as badass as footwear can be, and pure Rick – in your face, aggressive, and yet somehow elegant. From the precollection and DRKSHDW – the bread and butter stuff – I couldn’t say that much stood out, but a careful buyer will be able to make a good selection. I liked the shearlings in particular. Perhaps it’s insignificant, but I continue to like what Owens is doing with small accessories, especially key chains and such."

    Read the full article on SZ-MAG
    StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store
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