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Rick Owens Women's FW18 “SISYPHUS” - Paris

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  • Mascarar
    Member
    • May 2015
    • 42

    Rick Owens Women's FW18 “SISYPHUS” - Paris

    http://nowfashion.com/rick-owens-rea...18-paris-24342
  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #2
    And? Can you at least post a few pictures? Say what you think?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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    • Mascarar
      Member
      • May 2015
      • 42

      #3
      Originally posted by Faust View Post
      And? Can you at least post a few pictures? Say what you think?
      Sorry Faust. It won't happen again.

      Comment

      • Nickefuge
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2014
        • 860

        #4
        I was a bit underwhelmed by both the men’s and women’s collection tbh. A few nice pieces here and there, but personally I’m not really on board with plaid or mustard yellow for that matter. I think Rick was too occupied by his exhibition.
        "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
        -Paris Hilton

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        • XIX
          Junior Member
          • Nov 2016
          • 16

          #5
          Enjoyed the women’s collection significantly more than men’s this cycle. The various motifs and design choices somehow felt more sincere and more strongly conceived than those found in the men’s presentation. As Nickefuge said, the exhibition may have taken away a bit too much focus, but Rick still delivers an interesting proposition here compared to his peers at PFW.

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          • Ahimsa
            Vegan Police
            • Sep 2011
            • 1879

            #6
            StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

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            • stemcell
              Senior Member
              • Jul 2011
              • 261

              #7
              A little underwhelmed but it grew on me a bit more pretty quickly. Shoes are perfect. I loved the music too. Boring but the materials look so soft and safe in a comforting way. Can anyone with a BOF account post the tim blanks review for this season? thanks!

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              • aussy
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2011
                • 555

                #8
                I was underwhelmed, preferred the men's collection, tired of experimentation in sausage appendage form instead of draping, hated the turquoise

                Don't have a BOF account but Tim Blanks 'review' below:

                Rick Owens was smiling, but he was crying inside. “Once I was the voice of hope,” he said. “Now I’m getting more cynical and pessimistic.” His tongue was somewhat in his cheek. You could hardly write off someone so productive as a pessimist. Still, there was no getting round the fact that his new collection was more subdued, more restrained than usual.

                It was a sharp contrast with the men’s collection he showed in January, which simmered with fury. He called that one Sisyphus, after the mythical king who was condemned by Zeus for his arrogance to push a boulder up a hill for eternity. Sisyphus became an enduring symbol of frustration and futility. Owens also titled his new women’s collection Sisyphus, but he said the emphasis here was on seduction. “But towards what results?” he mused, suggesting that this was another human endeavour doomed to failure. In a complete departure from the abrasive Owens norm, the soundtrack was a medley of versions of “Baubles, Bangles and Beads”, an enchanting tune from the show “Kismet”. Marlene Dietrich, Peggy Lee and Eydie Gorme were joined by Liza Minnelli, whose presence bothered Owens a little. “She’s a worldly woman singing a song of such wistful yearning.” He wondered if the campness would bring down the wrath of trolls upon his head. (An Owens apercu to take to heart: Camp is a cynic’s excuse to embrace sentimentality.)

                As an arch provocateur, Rick now has to worry about such things. He needn’t. Arch his choice of soundtrack may well have seemed, but it also targeted the peculiar dreamy carnality at the heart of the collection (though Owens would typically prefer the unassuming “modest”). The exaggerated shapes – the “voluptuousness and crude sumptuousness” of bulbous bumbags, and coils and bumpers of padding – were his nod and a wink to bustles and panniers. Owens considered those once fashionable addenda to the female silhouette as coquettish references to sex. “When you are exaggerating shapes like that, they are bordering on the ridiculous, so you have to have a sense of humour about them,” he said. “There’s a charm to that.”

                Ridiculousness? Humour? Charm? Was this the Rick Owens we know and love talking? “I know it’s very easy for my stuff to come off as very dour and apocalyptic and I am a pessimist but, honestly, I don’t dwell on apocalypse at all.” He certainly laughs easily enough. And there was even an unlikely lyricism to the blanket checks that were such a departure in this collection. Yet that subdued quality I mentioned suggested a new depth of reflection. Last year’s lifetime achievement award from the CFDA and the recent career retrospective in Milan undoubtedly have something to do with it. But there’s something deeper, darker beyond that. This collection was called Sisyphus. Futility. Owens is already thinking of calling his next Babel. Confusion.

                Comment

                • Nickefuge
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2014
                  • 860

                  #9
                  Thank you for posting that.
                  Is his official statement out yet as well?
                  "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
                  -Paris Hilton

                  Comment

                  • XIX
                    Junior Member
                    • Nov 2016
                    • 16

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Nickefuge View Post
                    Thank you for posting that.
                    Is his official statement out yet as well?
                    Not sure if this is his ‘official-official’ statement, but read this in the official YouTube channel’s video description before I watched the show the other day:

                    THIS WOMEN’S FALL/WINTER COLLECTION FOLLOWS THE MEN’S FALL/WINTER COLLECTION IN BEING TITLED SISYPHUS AFTER THE ARROGANT KING IN GREEK MYTHOLOGY WHO WAS PUNISHED BY ZEUS TO REPEATEDLY ROLL A BOULDER UP A HILL ONLY TO HAVE IT ROLL BACK DOWN AGAIN. ETERNALLY.

                    WE MIGHT INTERPRET THIS AS A STORY ABOUT FUTILITY, OR AS A STORY OF PATTERNS MONOTONOUSLY REPEATING THEMSELVES WITHOUT PROGRESSION.

                    FOR THE MEN’S SHOW I WAS FOCUSED ON CYCLES OF CULTURAL BACKPEDALING AND DISAPPOINTING SOCIAL SHIFTS BUT FOR THE WOMEN’S SHOW THE FOCUS IS ON SEDUCTION. CLOTHES ARE COMMUNICATION AND THE MESSAGE IS OFTEN ONE OF SEDUCTION. BUT TOWARDS WHAT RESULTS?

                    IN THE PAST THERE HAVE BEEN MOMENTS OF ALMOST GROTESQUE PHYSICAL DISTORTION IN THE NAME OF SEDUCTION — PANNIERS, BUSTLES... IT’S BEEN A WHILE SINCE THIS KIND OF DELIBERATELY SLY EXAGGERATION WAS EMBRACED.

                    ALTHOUGH THE BULBOUS BAGS AND BACKPACKS IN MY RECENT COLLECTIONS CAN EASILY READ ‘REFUGEE’, I HAVE PRINCIPALLY DEPLOYED THEM AS EXCUSES TO CREATE CREDIBLE VOLUMES ON THE BODY. PADDING HERE ISN’T NECESSARILY ABOUT PROTECTION, BUT ABOUT VOLUPTUOUSNESS AND A CRUDE SUMPTUOUSNESS.

                    TUNICS IN CAMEL HAIR AND LINEN FELT ARE PACKED WITH GOOSE DOWN TO SWADDLE AND ENVELOP THE BODY IN UNEVEN INDENTATIONS AND EXTENSIONS TO ABSTRACT THE FIGURE. COLORS ARE MUTED AND BLEAK. COATS, MANTLES, AND MEGAPARKAS ARE WORN OVER CASHMERE RUNNING SHORTS PAIRED WITH GENERIC LOOKING TRACK SHOES

                    OVERSIZED WORK SHIRTS, CARGOCHAPS, AND SHOES ARE CONSTRUCTED IN A SYNTHETIC SHEARLING THAT TRAILS LOOSE FILAMENTS OF RECYCLED POLYESTER YARN IN AN OUT-OF-CONTROL HAZE AND SOME COATS AND T-SHIRTS HAVE BEEN HAND-PAINTED IN ROUGH, THICK RESIN BRUSHSTROKES.

                    COATS ARE PIECED AND PATCHED TOGETHER IN COMPOSITIONS RIPPING OFF BAUHAUS ARCHITECTURE, WITH DEEP NUTRIA-LINED PATCH POCKETS.

                    THE ARTE POVERA SEDUCTION PROPOSED HERE IS A RAW AND INDIRECT ONE. SOME MAY CALL IT ANTI- SEDUCTION. BUT WHAT ARE THE SEDUCTION RULES AND WHOSE AUTHORITY DO I ACCEPT IN DEFINING THEM?

                    THE MUSIC ACCOMPANYING THIS SHOW IS SEVERAL VERSIONS OF A 1950S SHOW TUNE ‘BAUBLES, BANGLES AND BEADS’, A SONG ABOUT DRESSING, SEDUCTION, AND EXPECTATIONS. THE WISTFUL, YEARNING LYRICS CAN STRIKE A CHORD BECAUSE WE CAN ALL IDENTIFY, WHILE WE ALSO SMILE RUEFULLY AT ITS SIMPLISTIC MESSAGE IN THESE COMPLICATED TIMES (I HAVE ALWAYS DEFINED CAMP AS A CYNICS EXCUSE TO EMBRACE SENTIMENTALITY).

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                    • stemcell
                      Senior Member
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 261

                      #11
                      After watching the show about 40 more times, mostly on in the background just for the music, I realized I was actually listening to an episode of Arrested Development.

                      Which made me love it even more.

                      Comment

                      • Ahimsa
                        Vegan Police
                        • Sep 2011
                        • 1879

                        #12
                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

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                        • Sulk
                          Junior Member
                          • Mar 2015
                          • 15

                          #13
                          I really love some of these. The coats that extend past the neck to fall back down and form over the shoulders, using the lining as another layer. Love it. The headpieces are interesting too. Deconstructed caps with the bills used as wing-like extensions and the closures being a centerpiece. Removing all function, but retaining the iconography. Wonderful.

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