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Thread: New British/European avant garde designers

  1. #1

    Default New British/European avant garde designers

    Hey,

    So has anyone seen any up and coming British or European avant garde brands that they like the look of? I'm interested to see what's coming up next.

    Who's getting your creative juices going and why?

  2. #2
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    No one. Unless you count Craig Green, but I don't think he's up and coming anymore - depends on your point of view. I look at Charles Jeffrey, Wales Bonner, Martine Serre, Namacheko, Kiko Kostadinov, etc. and I just don't get what people see in them. But I am (almost) always open to changing my opinion. I certainly don't want to come off as if I don't like anything new...

    Which ones do you like?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  3. #3

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    My favourite is Nicolas Ghesquière, he's genius!
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  4. #4

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    I like Wales Bonner and think she's evolved with every season.
    Yet I don't own any piece of her and don't know about the quality.

    Seeing the latest collection of Cottweiler (https://www.businessoffashion.com/ar...-goes-cruising) I also think that they've the potential to bring their tailoring+sportwear approach to another level.

  5. #5

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    Thanks for your thoughts! Im gonna take a look. Keep them coming!
    I'm a Paul Harnden fan personally, but looking for something new.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by mmsix View Post
    I like Wales Bonner and think she's evolved with every season.
    Yet I don't own any piece of her and don't know about the quality.
    Although I agree with you, I'm not 100% sure I'd consider her avant-garde per se. I think a lot of her garments look like they'd take the luxe-tailoring approach if anything.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alfie View Post
    Hey,

    So has anyone seen any up and coming British or European avant garde brands that they like the look of? I'm interested to see what's coming up next.

    Who's getting your creative juices going and why?
    I just started following the dude John Skelton on IG. Pulls heavily from period clothing, makes his own fabrics and has just enough eccentricity to keep it interesting and unique.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by clay View Post
    I just started following the dude John Skelton on IG. Pulls heavily from period clothing, makes his own fabrics and has just enough eccentricity to keep it interesting and unique.
    Also Melitta Baumeister was picked up by DSM a while back. I like her clean, techy and over sized take on things. She also is a minimalist which is close to my heart.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by clay View Post
    I just started following the dude John Skelton on IG. Pulls heavily from period clothing, makes his own fabrics and has just enough eccentricity to keep it interesting and unique.
    I like Skelton a lot; especially, the recent collab he did with Oliver McConnie. In that same vein, there's JM Ribot; who I also like.

    Honestly, I don't know much about the UK or Euro scene. I follow a small group or individual from China and Japan. There's a real push for a GBS, Dawson, Harnden, and the like clothing: handmade, imperfect, hand-dyed with local dyes, very raw material. I've always been a sucker for that and I love it to all death.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Errantman View Post
    I like Skelton a lot; especially, the recent collab he did with Oliver McConnie. In that same vein, there's JM Ribot; who I also like.

    Honestly, I don't know much about the UK or Euro scene. I follow a small group or individual from China and Japan. There's a real push for a GBS, Dawson, Harnden, and the like clothing: handmade, imperfect, hand-dyed with local dyes, very raw material. I've always been a sucker for that and I love it to all death.
    I am with you on all those guys😉

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by clay View Post
    I am with you on all those guys😉
    Also I just came across this cat Stefen Cooke. There seems to be some interesting thoughtful clothing. Yet it has a feel of this modern, anything goes vibe that many, many of these new designers have. I hope it levels out the concept and quality ( I have not handled the clothing though).

  12. #12

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    Thoughts on Tsolo Munkh?
    She makes female clothes, but some outerwear looks "unisex" and pretty interesting:
    https://dadmoscow.com/tsolo-munkh-1/...h-nomads-parka

  13. #13

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    ive been wearing a lot of Sagittaire A funnily enough from china, interested in Ernest W Baker not sure where the designers reside but some production is in italy and portugal, from korea theres PostArchiveFaction, korea/us there is Blackmerle.

    from japan/nyc there is Kozaburo, japan only Soshiostuki, maybe Shinya Kozuka, midorikawa..

    Emily Bode's work is incredible also from USA....

    a lot of my interest is not necessarily from Britain or Europe which is actually something that i noticed from just making this list, just wanted to share hope it sparks discussion
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    I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

  14. #14

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    Pretty interested in new work from Christopher Nemeth-- being pretty young I wasn't super aware of his old stuff until recently. I have no idea who is behind it though

    Kozaburo is pretty interesting too, I haven't heard much of the backstory and am curious to see how the brand plays out over time. Really dig the "3d" cutting, not so much the tshirts, nor do I understand the motivation there. Garments feel really high quality though.

    Just ended an internship at Bode, it's really nuts how they manage to source their antique textiles. Being there is like working in a Roald Dahl book

    Also in NY is the internet sensation Peter Do, I like a lot of his clothes granted I haven't seen them in person-- he develops his own specialty textiles though


    It's interesting to me how clothes makers I follow are split between looking forward or looking back i.e. Skelton vs Peter Do.

  15. #15
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I follow a few of the above. I like what Kozaboro is doing. I like Peter Do more on Instagram. I think it's brilliant cutting and silhouettes, but they need better fabrics to justify the prices they are charging.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  16. #16

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    I dont think the problem with Wales Bonner is lack of great items. It's that the strongest pieces never go into production. Think of that outfit she did for Elysia Crampton a few seasons back. Never made.
    let me be lonely

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by jap808 View Post
    Thoughts on Tsolo Munkh?
    She makes female clothes, but some outerwear looks "unisex" and pretty interesting:
    https://dadmoscow.com/tsolo-munkh-1/...h-nomads-parka
    I'm a huge fan of her work. I was following her closely some years back but I haven't seen anything new in ages. I've been wondering if she quit the business. The more ornate dark pieces share a vibe with Ann while some of the rawer stuff nods back to the nomadic culture of her native Mongolia. The shearlings are akin to what Jona was doing with Inaisce. The most deconstructed stuff reminds me of Georgian designer Nutsa Modebadze. Hope to see more from her in the future.



  18. #18

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    Peter Do is amazing, wish it was more accessible to the people though, on that same note, Situationist is another brand which is on the come up for womens (unisex?)...
    Quote Originally Posted by unwashed View Post
    Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ahimsa View Post
    I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

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