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Thread: Ten shows of the 21st Century that defined menswear today

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    Default Ten shows of the 21st Century that defined menswear today

    I picked ten shows that defined menswear today for Highsnobiety. Would like to know what you think and if you have other candidates.

    https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/best-...-21st-century/
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    Few designers have defined the contemporary menswear silhouette the way that Owens did. For those of you wearing drop-crotch pants today, you probably have Rick Owens to thank


    100000000% True, you can't imagine how long i stopped at your statement and make my thoughts "is that good thing to both Rick OWENS and other designers or it's good to Rick but damage and harm other designers creation and designing ability "

    Interesting article but i amazed of considering Givinchy one of them

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    The Dior Homme show really takes me back. Fashion hasn't been the same for me since the days of DH by Hedi Slimane, the MSN DH group, lurking on eBay for good deals, all the legendary pieces like the Napoleon jacket... I've kept some blazers for posteritys sake, too bad I'm too jacked these days to fit my old sz 46 pieces.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HWith View Post
    The Dior Homme show really takes me back. Fashion hasn't been the same for me since the days of DH by Hedi Slimane, the MSN DH group, lurking on eBay for good deals, all the legendary pieces like the Napoleon jacket... I've kept some blazers for posteritys sake, too bad I'm too jacked these days to fit my old sz 46 pieces.
    Quote Originally Posted by darkpyramid View Post
    Few designers have defined the contemporary menswear silhouette the way that Owens did. For those of you wearing drop-crotch pants today, you probably have Rick Owens to thank


    100000000% True, you can't imagine how long i stopped at your statement and make my thoughts "is that good thing to both Rick OWENS and other designers or it's good to Rick but damage and harm other designers creation and designing ability "

    Interesting article but i amazed of considering Givinchy one of them

    Dear darkpyramid, Actually, GBS did drop-crotch pants and showed them in Paris for men in January of 2002. The pants were built and delivered to Okura/Hollywood Ranch Market in Daikanyama and Degli Effetti in Rome, two of the most influential avant-garde points in the world at that time (Degli Effetti was the first store in the world to carry Carpe Diem for example), where they did well and were seen by a large number of fashion design and merch professionals at the global level- and like a lot of our work over the decades, re-appeared in other brands and collections in subsequent seasons. We know you are new to all this, but there are plenty of examples of drop-crotch pants done on or before the time Rick Owens did them out there to contradict your statement, including Carol who did some of the best. And ditto to HWith in regards to the Napoleon jacket.. another GBS idea put out in Paris and in a pile of the world's top stores in 2004 and 2005 well before DH or any number of a slew of good and bad designers who ended up running with the look ever got near it. Slimane introduced huge things in his time at DH, but the Napoleonic-style was not one of them. Let's do our homework thoroughly, gentlemen. I am sorry to butt in on this conversation like this but GBS put Napoleonic style on the map in the naughty's and we have all the tearsheets and store orders in the world to prove it including Karl Lagerfeld's photo story in Numero. As for the 10 shows selected, we can argue about the subject until the cows come home, I too have some disagreements -- but it's irrelevant. In the end, the fact that Eugene Rabkin is writing in Highsnobiety is what counts for everyone who reads SZ. For once, there is someone who can begin to shed some light to a very large new audience on the true part of the industry that is creating something and practicing real design. Clearly, there may be some limits and compromises coming from the managing editors and publishers to appease certain commercial requirements, but nevertheless, I find it extremely exciting to see Highsnobiety articles coming out with a byline of the founder of SZ. Make no mistake about it, this forum, its magazine, its founder and its readers are growing and are having an increasingly wider impact on this industry. And that is a good thing in my opinion. Congratulations to Faust and Cheers to everyone on the forum, Geoffrey
    Last edited by Geoffrey B. Small; 12-20-2019 at 01:24 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HWith View Post
    The Dior Homme show really takes me back. Fashion hasn't been the same for me since the days of DH by Hedi Slimane, the MSN DH group, lurking on eBay for good deals, all the legendary pieces like the Napoleon jacket... I've kept some blazers for posteritys sake, too bad I'm too jacked these days to fit my old sz 46 pieces.
    I’ve recently started hunting for the Dior Homme pieces I wish I bought when they were released but couldn’t afford them as I was too young. Im just as excited to come across a piece in good condition today as I was 15 years ago lurking stores to see them in person. Fashion was so exciting then, back when e-commerce wasn’t as prevalent and every store seemed to have different pieces. One of my first high fashion purchases was a Dior Homme t-shirt from Strip that I took a bus from Barcelona to Marbella to buy at El Corte Inglese based on a tip from a sales assistant that they just received a delivery but Mick Jagger was photographed wearing it that week and it would sell out instantly. I still have it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by haydn View Post
    Fashion was so exciting then, back when e-commerce wasn’t as prevalent and every store seemed to have different pieces.

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    Quote Originally Posted by darkpyramid View Post
    Interesting article but i amazed of considering Givinchy one of them
    I don't have to like it to acknowledge its importance.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffrey B. Small View Post
    Dear darkpyramid, Actually, GBS did drop-crotch pants and showed them in Paris for men in January of 2002. The pants were built and delivered to Okura/Hollywood Ranch Market in Daikanyama and Degli Effetti in Rome, two of the most influential avant-garde points in the world at that time (Degli Effetti was the first store in the world to carry Carpe Diem for example), where they did well and were seen by a large number of fashion design and merch professionals at the global level- and like a lot of our work over the decades, re-appeared in other brands and collections in subsequent seasons. We know you are new to all this, but there are plenty of examples of drop-crotch pants done on or before the time Rick Owens did them out there to contradict your statement, including Carol who did some of the best. And ditto to HWith in regards to the Napoleon jacket.. another GBS idea put out in Paris and in a pile of the world's top stores in 2004 and 2005 well before DH or any number of a slew of good and bad designers who ended up running with the look ever got near it. Slimane introduced huge things in his time at DH, but the Napoleonic-style was not one of them. Let's do our homework thoroughly, gentlemen. I am sorry to butt in on this conversation like this but GBS put Napoleonic style on the map in the naughty's and we have all the tearsheets and store orders in the world to prove it including Karl Lagerfeld's photo story in Numero. As for the 10 shows selected, we can argue about the subject until the cows come home, I too have some disagreements -- but it's irrelevant. In the end, the fact that Eugene Rabkin is writing in Hypebeast is what counts for everyone who reads SZ. For once, there is someone who can begin to shed some light to a very large new audience on the true part of the industry that is creating something and practicing real design. Clearly, there may be some limits and compromises coming from the managing editors and publishers to appease certain commercial requirements, but nevertheless, I find it extremely exciting to see Hypebeast articles coming out with a byline of the founder of SZ. Make no mistake about it, this forum, its magazine, its founder and its readers are growing and are having an increasingly wider impact on this industry. And that is a good thing in my opinion. Congratulations to Faust and Cheers to everyone on the forum, Geoffrey
    Thank you, Geoffrey (only, it's Highsnobiety!) I am also happy that they acknowledge that it's important that a writer like me speaks to their audience. They welcome it with open arms, actually.

    Obviously the list is subjective and part of the fun is to hear others put forth their candidates.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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    Quote Originally Posted by haydn View Post
    I’ve recently started hunting for the Dior Homme pieces I wish I bought when they were released but couldn’t afford them as I was too young. Im just as excited to come across a piece in good condition today as I was 15 years ago lurking stores to see them in person. Fashion was so exciting then, back when e-commerce wasn’t as prevalent and every store seemed to have different pieces. One of my first high fashion purchases was a Dior Homme t-shirt from Strip that I took a bus from Barcelona to Marbella to buy at El Corte Inglese based on a tip from a sales assistant that they just received a delivery but Mick Jagger was photographed wearing it that week and it would sell out instantly. I still have it.
    I love this story! I mean, no one would do this know.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Thank you, Geoffrey (only, it's Highsnobiety!) I am also happy that they acknowledge that it's important that a writer like me speaks to their audience. They welcome it with open arms, actually.

    Obviously the list is subjective and part of the fun is to hear others put forth their candidates.
    oops, error corrected- with my apologies....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoffrey B. Small View Post
    Dear darkpyramid, Actually, GBS did drop-crotch pants and showed them in Paris for men in January of 2002. The pants were built and delivered to Okura/Hollywood Ranch Market in Daikanyama and Degli Effetti in Rome, two of the most influential avant-garde points in the world at that time (Degli Effetti was the first store in the world to carry Carpe Diem for example), where they did well and were seen by a large number of fashion design and merch professionals at the global level- and like a lot of our work over the decades, re-appeared in other brands and collections in subsequent seasons. We know you are new to all this, but there are plenty of examples of drop-crotch pants done on or before the time Rick Owens did them out there to contradict your statement, including Carol who did some of the best. And ditto to HWith in regards to the Napoleon jacket.. another GBS idea put out in Paris and in a pile of the world's top stores in 2004 and 2005 well before DH or any number of a slew of good and bad designers who ended up running with the look ever got near it. Slimane introduced huge things in his time at DH, but the Napoleonic-style was not one of them. Let's do our homework thoroughly, gentlemen. I am sorry to butt in on this conversation like this but GBS put Napoleonic style on the map in the naughty's and we have all the tearsheets and store orders in the world to prove it including Karl Lagerfeld's photo story in Numero. As for the 10 shows selected, we can argue about the subject until the cows come home, I too have some disagreements -- but it's irrelevant. In the end, the fact that Eugene Rabkin is writing in Highsnobiety is what counts for everyone who reads SZ. For once, there is someone who can begin to shed some light to a very large new audience on the true part of the industry that is creating something and practicing real design. Clearly, there may be some limits and compromises coming from the managing editors and publishers to appease certain commercial requirements, but nevertheless, I find it extremely exciting to see Highsnobiety articles coming out with a byline of the founder of SZ. Make no mistake about it, this forum, its magazine, its founder and its readers are growing and are having an increasingly wider impact on this industry. And that is a good thing in my opinion. Congratulations to Faust and Cheers to everyone on the forum, Geoffrey

    Re: Drop crotch pants:
    While you may have had a role to play in the popularization of drop crotch pants by inspiring fellow designers, I belive darkpyramid is still right when he says we can thank RO for making them main stream. Not to take anything away from you, but RO is a hugely influential designer, and I think it's hard to argue that without drop crotch in his collections it would still be super nieche.

    Re: Napoleon jackets:
    Not in any way saying that HS did the original Napoleon jacket, just as you didn't either. Actually in this case I don't really get your point, as it's a style that has been around (and been popular) forever. My point was just reminiscing how that particular piece by DH was super saught after and ridiculously expensive. I could just as well have used some other iconic DH piece, but the jacket was the one that came to mind.

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    Did anyone actually read the article? darkpyramid is quoting Eugene regarding drop crotch pants.

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    Quote Originally Posted by croatoan View Post
    Did anyone actually read the article? darkpyramid is quoting Eugene regarding drop crotch pants.
    Nope, I'm just here for the pretty pictures. Like a teenage girl looking at ads in Vogue.

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    N9's Noir is in it lol. I thought you hate that collection that you talked about it in a thread years ago

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    Quote Originally Posted by hangufeng View Post
    N9's Noir is in it lol. I thought you hate that collection that you talked about it in a thread years ago
    Really? Where?
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    OK wrong season...It was Number (N)ine FW 07-08 Paris thread. However you said you were turned off for every season by N(N), which makes gaves me an impression that you were not fond of the label ever.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hangufeng View Post
    OK wrong season...It was Number (N)ine FW 07-08 Paris thread. However you said you were turned off for every season by N(N), which makes gaves me an impression that you were not fond of the label ever.
    Can you link to the post? I certainly was not. The only collection I remember not liking was the Axl Rose one.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Can you link to the post? I certainly was not. The only collection I remember not liking was the Axl Rose one.
    http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...ighlight=cloak Here. You did mention ss06 which was the Axl Rose one lol. I notice you said four seasons, which maybe didn't include Noir. Mistake

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