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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #76
    Originally posted by deleuze View Post
    Thank you. Awesome article.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • rach2jlc
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 265

      #77
      Originally posted by Faust View Post
      Thank you. Awesome article.
      Agreed; both awesome and sadly "par for the course."

      Since WAY back, you and I have disagreed about the possible merits of Prada, but the more abysmal shit I see in the stores from them and the more articles such as this I read really make me get disgusted.

      Take a brand like Lambertson Truex, for example, many of whose menswear bags are openly made in China in high-tech facilities (they are not a part of Samsonite Group). Some of the bags, though, are made in Italy and the price reflects this difference in manufacturing cost. The "savings" seems to be passed on to the customer. For example, a made in Italy bag from LT will run $1000 or so, but the regular men's ones, made in China, are about $375 retail, while of being completely comparable or equal quality.

      What sucks about Prada is that they make crappier bags, for cheaper costs, and STILL charge $1375 for that bag even though it cost them 1/10 what it did the season before. GROSS!

      I have no problem anymore with outsourcing if they use good materials and factories that produce good bags and then pass that savings on to the customer. LT changed my outlook on "made in China" in that I've been using some of their bags now for a few years and the styling is great, the quality is great, and the prices are very reasonable.

      What gets me is when they change facilities, drop the quality to absolute shit, and then mark the goods UP 10-15% and act like they're doing us a favor (remember Prada America's Cup sneakers? Used to be made in Italy and $295... saw some at saks a while back, made in Vietnam and $340.)

      Comment

      • MikeN
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2007
        • 2205

        #78
        Topping this great and very informative thread. I don't have much to contribute in terms of who is making what, but I would love to hear more from our posters more knowledgable on the topic.

        Comment

        • Faust
          kitsch killer
          • Sep 2006
          • 37852

          #79
          I think Galliano since moved to Itierre (or maybe that's for his diffusion line?).
          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

          Comment

          • MikeN
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2007
            • 2205

            #80
            Pretty relevant, from the Times...



            July 30, 2009
            Signing His Name With a Stitch
            By RUTH LA FERLA

            MARTIN GREENFIELD roamed the rough planked floor of his clothing plant in Brooklyn recently, enjoying the familiar whir of a dozen machines. He paused abruptly to inspect the details of a custom tailored coat spread across a table, fingering a buttonhole. The hand stitching “is a signature for us, one that reads like a thank-you note,” he said.

            Just the way he likes it. “I don’t even like to read a thank-you note unless it’s written out by hand,” he added.

            In a career spanning more than three decades, Mr. Greenfield (photo at top) has overseen the stitching and the placement of pockets and seams in tens of thousands of garments, making his name as a tailors’ tailor. His plant in Bushwick engineers and produces 40,000 suits a year for some of the nation’s leading clothiers and for an impressive roster of private clients.

            For years he labored behind the scenes to perfect the set of a sleeve or slant of a pocket for the likes of Bill Clinton, Paul Newman and Michael Bloomberg, whose photos line his office walls. Among his more clandestine assignments was to whip up a suit for Michael Jackson. Mr. Jackson, he recalled, never appeared for a fitting. “It was a kind of undercover operation,” he said. The suit, he added, fit perfectly.

            As early as the 1960s, the Czechoslovakian-born Mr. Greenfield was cultivating a reputation as “tailor to the designers,” as he likes to say. Isaac Mizrahi and Donna Karan are among those who sought out his expertise. Ms. Karan, who had approached him in the ’80s to help her with men’s suits, recalled at the time that Mr. Greenfield taught her “discipline — how a quarter-inch adjustment can alter everything about the way a suit fits and feels.”

            Today his cutters, sewers and patternmakers piece together blazers and tailored hoodies for adventurous labels like Band of Outsiders.

            Mr. Greenfield could probably have reeled off the names of famous clients all afternoon. But more pressing things distracted him. “Look at this,” he said, pausing to watch as a worker bent over a buttonhole. “Each stitch has its own knot,” he explained, with mounting satisfaction. “Her job is to pull each knot exactly as tight as the last.” He would have it no other way.

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #81
              Bump for Matteo and other new members.
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #82
                Bump for new members. Fun read.
                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • PaintedBlack_7
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2010
                  • 141

                  #83
                  greenfield also produces all rag and bone tailored wear (was on fashion night out's skit on them, was a pretty interesting watch)
                  ________
                  Yamaha Sy99 Specifications
                  Last edited by PaintedBlack_7; 02-10-2011, 07:31 PM.

                  Comment

                  • kunk75
                    Banned
                    • May 2008
                    • 3364

                    #84
                    safe to assume he was not responsible for Rick's knife blazer.

                    Comment

                    • Atom
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2009
                      • 310

                      #85
                      Interesting thread, thanks.

                      Marc Jacobs Men is also made by Staff nowadays. But what's the deal with CCP? In this thread there was a suggestion that CCP shoes were made by Guidi. I thought they were made in-house.

                      Comment

                      • rsb
                        Junior Member
                        • Apr 2010
                        • 1

                        #86
                        Originally posted by deleuze View Post

                        The documentary mentioned in the article is still viewable. Highly recommended.



                        Rai Tre - Report
                        Disoccupati del lusso
                        by Sabrina Giannini

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37852

                          #87
                          Originally posted by Atom View Post
                          Interesting thread, thanks.

                          Marc Jacobs Men is also made by Staff nowadays. But what's the deal with CCP? In this thread there was a suggestion that CCP shoes were made by Guidi. I thought they were made in-house.
                          Made of Guidi leather.
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • slalom
                            Junior Member
                            • Sep 2009
                            • 24

                            #88
                            Originally posted by rsb View Post
                            The documentary mentioned in the article is still viewable. Highly recommended.



                            Rai Tre - Report
                            Disoccupati del lusso
                            by Sabrina Giannini
                            really interesting article. the report and the italian police exclusively punish the undocumented chinese rather than the companies that decide to subcontract work to these sweatshops.

                            it's interesting that the reporter and the italian police blame the chinese for loss of italian labor, tax evasion, and unfit working conditions like they care, while the independent italians that employ an italian workforce blame the big corporations for hiring and increasing the demand for illegal labor to cut costs.

                            it's similar to undocumented mexicans in the states. people need to divert their fear, hatred, ill will to the companies that are hiring undocumented workers to cut costs.

                            Comment

                            • chestercopperpot
                              Member
                              • Oct 2011
                              • 40

                              #89
                              great thread...

                              Couple of updates

                              Thom Browne

                              Shirts- are now made by Gambert again (1st was gambert, then gitman now back)

                              Shoes-are now made by...Sanders No more Trickers and Sanders are made in the Dominican Republic. Then re-lasted in the UK

                              Michael Bastian

                              Jackets- Isaia but made in their Michelangelo factory (machine made)

                              Shirts- Lorenzini

                              Comment

                              • Patroklus
                                Banned
                                • Feb 2011
                                • 1675

                                #90
                                Can anyone help me figure out which contractors are involved with fragrance production and who they manufacture for? I'm having trouble hunting for this information with Google alone.

                                Comment

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