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Thread: Who Makes What for Whom

  1. #181
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lohikaarme View Post
    If he does, that's still totally different than making the shoe itself.
    Exactly
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  2. #182

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickefuge View Post
    He also personally rubs his dick on every single shoe, hence the price tag.
    Thank you for making my day, and making me spray water all over my monitor =p

  3. #183

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lohikaarme View Post
    If he does, that's still totally different than making the shoe itself.
    "Totally different" ?!

    At the very least dipping them is an essential part of the process surely ?

  4. #184

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    Yes, "totally different" is correct.

    Dipping the shoe is the artisanal step used to make the shoe something extraterrestrial. However, creating the shoe is a craft which requires a very specific ability and a very specific set of tools/equipment.

    PS: CCP's workshop is relatively small compared to that of other artisanal brands. The fact that magic happens within it's walls is still a somewhat of a legendary miracle. (Dead-end tailoring, taped seams, etc.)

    Fixed: I was at a show, sorry for being redundant.
    Last edited by julian_doe; 05-28-2018 at 12:23 AM.

  5. #185

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    Where does Boris source his leather from? has he changed in recent years? cos the past 2 seasons has been amazing.

  6. #186

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    Quote Originally Posted by julian_doe View Post
    Yes, "totally different" is correct.

    Dipping the shoe is the artisanal step used to make the shoe something extraterrestrial. However, creating the shoe is a craft which requires a very specific craft and a very specific set of tools/equipment.

    PS: CCP's workshop is relatively small compared to that of other artisanal brands. The fact that magic happens within it's walls is still a somewhat of a legendary miracle. (Dead-end tailoring, taped seams, etc.)
    If your logic is then applied to a painting :
    It would seem that making the frame and stretching a canvas on it is way more important than any paint that gets daubed on it ?

    I guess the paint applied at the end would be the "artisanal step used to make the (painting) something extraterrestrial."
    An interesting way of looking at things but not one that I can subscribe to.

  7. #187

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    Quote Originally Posted by STEALTH View Post
    If your logic is then applied to a painting :
    It would seem that making the frame and stretching a canvas on it is way more important than any paint that gets daubed on it ?

    I guess the paint applied at the end would be the "artisanal step used to make the (painting) something extraterrestrial."
    An interesting way of looking at things but not one that I can subscribe to.
    I never said that one part of the process is more important than the other. In fact, i am highlighting why both deserve appreciation, and attempting to explain why both happen at different locations.

    Read.

  8. #188

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    Quote Originally Posted by julian_doe View Post
    I never said that one part of the process is more important than the other. In fact, i am highlighting why both deserve appreciation, and attempting to explain why both happen at different locations.

    Read.
    You stated that making the shoe is "totally different" from dipping it, which is obviously incorrect

    You later then contradicted yourself by saying that they are both parts of the same process, which is correct.

    Think.

  9. #189

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    Can you explain how making the shoe and dipping the shoe are not different? I am incredibly curious...

  10. #190

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    Quote Originally Posted by julian_doe View Post
    Can you explain how making the shoe and dipping the shoe are not different? I am incredibly curious...
    Different parts

    Same process ( creating a drip sneaker )

    Both as important and equivalent to the finished article as each other

    Thus not "totally different"

    Curiosity is a wonderful thing

  11. #191

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    Precisely because it is a different process, which requires different equipment and skill, is why the shoes are not made at the atelier.

    But how much could someone asking the questions you ask actually know :)

    Edit: By the way, you are the model for IROFUSI (or whatever the name), Devoa, and others. Correct?

    Having been around for so long (SO long), hasn't it appeared obvious to you that a small atelier like Poell's has the shoes manufactured through outsourcing?
    Last edited by julian_doe; 05-28-2018 at 12:53 AM.

  12. #192

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    Quote Originally Posted by julian_doe View Post
    ... a small atelier like Poell's has the shoes manufactured through outsourcing?
    i'm not sure if the word "outsourcing" is really appropriate to use in the case of italian ateliers that work directly with italian shoemakers, especially those in historic shoemaking regions like fermo and macerata. i think it would be a little like saying that dior haute couture "outsources" pleating because they contract with maison gérard lognon. to describe it thusly requires such a fundamental misunderstanding of the paradigm of italian (or french) artisanal production as a whole. it has nothing to do with the size of an atelier either. it's not uncommon to see the same formificio making lasts for prada AND some of the smallest and most exclusive shoemaking brands this board follows (cherevichkiotvichki for example.) it's very much about the culture and traditions of italy as a whole, and the value thereof.

    Quote Originally Posted by Monoral View Post
    Where does Boris source his leather from? has he changed in recent years? cos the past 2 seasons has been amazing.
    as of a/w 2017 lot of it (but not all) was coming from conceria maryam, but if you say the last year's been of "amazing quality," they must have changed to somewhere else, lol ...

    (edited for clarity)

  13. #193

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    Thank you for your response and to clarify.
    I was referring to AW17-SS18 and to be more specific, horse leather from these two seasons.

  14. #194

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    Quote Originally Posted by grendelshrieks View Post
    as of a/w 2017 lot of it (but not all) was coming from conceria maryam, but if you say the last year's been of "amazing quality," they must have changed to somewhere else, lol ...

    (edited for clarity)
    Def been using Maryam for at least as long as Boris has used yellow leathers. However, I'd say Maryam's leather is quite nice, at least based on what I've handled of other brands that use their leather.

  15. #195

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    Quote Originally Posted by grendelshrieks View Post
    i'm not sure if the word "outsourcing" is really appropriate to use in the case of italian ateliers that work directly with italian shoemakers, especially those in historic shoemaking regions like fermo and macerata. i think it would be a little like saying that dior haute couture "outsources" pleating because they contract with maison gérard lognon. to describe it thusly requires such a fundamental misunderstanding of the paradigm of italian (or french) artisanal production as a whole. it has nothing to do with the size of an atelier either. it's not uncommon to see the same formificio making lasts for prada AND some of the smallest and most exclusive shoemaking brands this board follows (cherevichkiotvichki for example.) it's very much about the culture and traditions of italy as a whole, and the value thereof.



    as of a/w 2017 lot of it (but not all) was coming from conceria maryam, but if you say the last year's been of "amazing quality," they must have changed to somewhere else, lol ...

    (edited for clarity)
    You know, "outsourcing" may not have been the best word to use given the negative connotation the word holds these days.

    For the third time, I fully understand that the construction of shoes does not happen at Poell's atelier for obvious reasons (space, equipment, necessary personnel to make shoes, etc.). And, as Faust mentioned a few comments ago, this is a common practice among artisanal brands. I don't see anything wrong with this at all.

    I will rephrase and state that although Poell may dip his shoes in-house, the shoes he designs are constructed at an alternative location which the brands contracts for the task.

  16. #196
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I certainly did not mean to connote that outsourcing shoemaking is somehow inferior. It's just a completely different process from making clothes, so it makes sense. m.a.+ makes virtually everything except the shoes in house, but it would require pretty much setting up an entirely different workshop and hiring people with a totally different set of skills to make shoes on premises.

    I was just at GUIDI and saw the entire shoemaking process from start to finish (they literally made a pair of boots from scratch just so I could see), and it was an amazing experience, but the point is it wouldn't make a difference if they owned the production facility or not.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  17. #197

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickefuge View Post
    He also personally rubs his dick on every single shoe, hence the price tag.
    Im sure Simone just read this and will start doing this as well and go ahead and charge another $500 more for his "designs"..

  18. #198

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    Quote Originally Posted by upsilonkng View Post
    Im sure Simone just read this and will start doing this as well and go ahead and charge another $500 more for his "designs"..
    Better than screen printing a box logo on a tee and calling it design...

    Or charging hundreds/thousands for it...

    Edit: I am not supporting Simone doing this at all.
    Last edited by julian_doe; 06-05-2018 at 03:56 PM.

  19. #199

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    Who’s Simone?
    "The only rule is don't be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in."
    -Paris Hilton

  20. #200

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    a1923

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