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Thread: Taichi Murakami

  1. #1

    Default Taichi Murakami

    Taichi Murakami:
    Former m.a+ pattern maker Taichi Murakami, who lives and works outside Yokohama, Japan. His concept contrasts research into technical sportswear while maintaining a strong artisanal component (via Atelier blog).

    Website: http://taichimurakami.com/taichimurakami.html (there ain't shit going on there)

    Exclusively sold in Japan with the exception of A.

    MOUNTAIN PARKA:
    Comprised of heavy Ramie, the yarn is coated with Konjac, a vegetable starch native to Asia, which enhances the textiles strength and softness. This technique, dating back to the Edo era, results in a fabric that ages like denim. The sleeve has a double layered, adjustable cuff inside, heavy cotton jersey insulates heat and protects from wind.


    SLIM JEAN:
    These are made from the same Konjac coated Ramie as the Mountain Parka. The pockets are gusseted and fastened with buttons.


    INSIDE OUT SHIRT:
    By utilizing densely woven, extra fine linen, this shirt has a very smooth and silky texture. The pocket and sleeve cuffs are sewn inside the garment.


    Didn't see this anywhere but I may have missed an existing thread. Please delete/relocate if necessary.

  2. #2

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    I am liking a few of these pieces so far. There isn't much of a visual narrative context for this brand yet - as you can tell from the bare website - but I'm looking forward to seeing how this brand develops in future seasons. The construction details are interesting, from the "blind" zigzag lockstitch on the inside to the undone tally mark stitching on the outside (not sure about the significance of this). I like the mix between sportswear and traditional Japanese craft (e.g. konjac coating on ramie pieces, a patchwork shirt like a summer masu quilt pattern). I think it pairs well with LUC and Devoa in particular.

    On fabrics: the SS13 collection was done in dry and lightweight fabrics such as linen, ramie, and a cotton-viscose blend that felt like hemp. For AW13/14, the collection is produced in Mongolian cashmere. But the cashmere is treated or blended so the result is something that appears less luxe, something more like hemp (see last picture in the following set). The konjac glue applied to ramie for SS13 was to prevent fluffing, so I'm not sure if the coating on this season's cashmere is used for a similar purpose or it's just about making the clothing feel less precious (the collections feel pretty casual and "old," for lack of a better term...e.g. buttons are made of tin).

    You can't see much from this LIFT presentation from AW13/14, but some pics nonetheless







    picture credit to LIFT

    Mountain Parka in long version for this season



    and a few detail pictures of the ss13 ramie parka from Centocose




  3. #3
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    i love his work. i tried on a hoodie at atelier and it's cut to perfection.

  4. #4

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    I have the Slim jeans. They are worth every bit of their hefty price tag. I tried in the 6 and 7 and ended up going with the 6 because the the 7's legs weren't as slim. It turned out I had the have the waist let out about an inch to make them comfortable. Mr Mirukami stitching is quite unique. He uses one lose stitch on the outside to make it a scar stitch and the strengthens it with a second tight stitch behind it. Thank god my tailor is a genius. It might also be worth noting that the buttons are what I believe to be Sterling Silver. I haven't tested them but being a jeweler, I'm pretty sure.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by messenoire View Post
    i love his work. i tried on a hoodie at atelier and it's cut to perfection.
    I must agree. I came really close to buying that same hoodie.

  6. #6

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    Digging this thread out of the grave, saw the current collection in a short tour of fall arrivals and was definitely impressed with what I saw. This year definitely has the most "complete" collection I've seen from this brand, rather than the bits and pieces I've seen trickle through from last fall and spring.

    All of the pieces are cut very well with amazing materials. Was particularly impressed with a pair of denim jeans lined in cashmere and some ramie trousers made with a single piece of fabric that switched to a different texture right where the seams would be on a traditionally sewn pair of pants - subtle but wonderful details like this pervade all the clothing from the collection.

    I've been a bit let down by Japanese designers lately other than Individual Sentiments, nothing by Viridi Anne or Devoa has really popped out to me in recent seasons, but Taichi Murakami felt very refreshing. Gonna go in for another look and try on a bit more pieces when I have a bit more time, but definitely planning on picking up a pair of pants and maybe a jacket this year.

  7. #7

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    this looks interesting to me as well. not sure how i missed it before...
    dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

  8. #8

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    Looks great.

    The ramie slim pants are amazing...

  9. #9

  10. #10

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    Here's a bunch of lovely shots for SS14 and FW14:

    http://www.couleur-coltd.com/categor...ichi-murakami/
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  11. #11

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    The Archive in San Francisco has Murakami in their blog photos- I'm guessing the pieces haven't arrived in store yet. They are great to work with. I'm hoping they get pieces other than those listed and they come in American big boy sizes- I think I'm at Murakami's limit for pants.

  12. #12

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    Lift has pictures of the recent collection on their website:

    http://www.lift-net.co.jp/collection...hi/taichi.html

    I know this gets said about a lot of clothes, but pictures really don't do these pieces justice - I hesitate to link even these pictures. They look flat and lifeless without any detail shots, and its the details that really make this brand. My impressions completely changed upon seeing them in person.

    Shelter only has pictures from past seasons, but their styling is good and photography is much better:

    http://plaza.rakuten.co.jp/shelter2/diary/?ctgy=4

  13. #13

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    taichi produces much nicer than m.a+. maybe more like m.a+ meets devoa in terms of productions

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by cowsareforeating View Post


    taichi produces much nicer than m.a+. maybe more like m.a+ meets devoa in terms of productions
    thats a bold statement
    dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

  15. #15

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    I like some of the jackets like the parka for example. The stitching details and tapes seams looks cool. But definitely not the pants above.. I think it's too loud imo (raw egdes).
    Focusing on object details

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by cjbreed View Post
    thats a bold statement
    That's not just a bold statement,

    where is your basis/source here?

    While I see where he's coming from when he speaks about the quality of TM, because I can attest it's as high quality as M.a+, but those comment comparing to Devoa have absolutely no basis.
    Last edited by TriggerDiscipline; 09-02-2014 at 07:57 PM. Reason: cleanliness is next to godliness

  17. #17

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    so Taichi is now making watches?


    "Things you own, end up owning you." --- Tyler Durden [FightClub 1999]

  18. #18

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    That is really interesting. A little bit sad that someone like him beat me to the watch construction punch, but conceptually the direction that I'm working towards as well.

    It fits the feel and aesthetic of his garments. The textures and tones along with the fabric combinations really come across even through photos. Really great stuff that is extremely well thought out. He's probably producing the most interesting and exciting stuff right now IMO.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  19. #19

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    Being in Australia I've not been able to handle any of his work, but from what I've seen online I have been impressed.

    As Albert says, the textures and tones in his offerings are very well considered and bring a coherence, and common 'theme', to his collections.

    If anyone has any pictures of AW15 I would be interested to see them.

  20. #20

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    The parka is my favourite from him. There's a leather high neck jacket from AW15 looks sick.
    Focusing on object details

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