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Thread: The Comme des Garçons "Universe"

  1. #421

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Just another example to illustrate that interviewing Kawakubo is an exercise in futility.
    True.

    Well, it doesn't say anything about her work, but at least it says something about her. And as she mentioned: "I am usually more attracted to the way they lived their lives rather than their actual works."
    "Das Getöse war absolut geworden, man hörte es nicht mehr."
    (E. Jünger)

  2. #422

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    Quote Originally Posted by gin soaked boy View Post
    Rei Kawakubo interviewed by Paul Smith (yes...) in 1995:
    http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/...ady-of-fashion
    Thanks for sharing, absolutely love the part about the Robe de Chambre store. Clothing store with no clothes on display - fucking great

  3. #423
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    a very long text about rei kawakubo's creative approach (in relation to Arakawa's and Gins's architecture)

    "In the following text, Erin articulates how Arakawa+Gins and Kawakubo’s creative methodology both embrace the idea that we don’t really know what a body is, and what it can do. Such a statement does not seem much, but as we have seen numerous times on this blog, fathoming this simple fact have tremendous consequences both in the creative and political realms. Kawakubo says herself that she does not want to make clothes; this can appear as odd for a fashion designer but, as explained by Erin, it needs to be understood in the refusal to separate the cloth to the body. In other words, Kawakubo does not design cloth as such, but rather shapes bodies without knowing in advance what they should be, thus denying the power of the norm".

    http://thefunambulist.net/2014/03/13...ng/#more-14592

  4. #424

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trouble View Post
    Thanks for sharing, absolutely love the part about the Robe de Chambre store. Clothing store with no clothes on display - fucking great
    Paul Smith: Do you have any children?
    Rei Kawakubo: Yes, 425. They all work at Comme des Garçons.

  5. #425
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Rei Kawakubo has a new protege working under her auspices. His line is Noir Kei Ninomiya. Currently it's only sold at DSM worldwide. The clothes are mind-blowing in level of construction and meticulous handwork. Here is an editorial we shot last weekend highlighting the S/S 2014. Also, lots of usual SZ suspects in there on the men's side.


    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  6. #426

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    incredible editorial. you certainly did Noir justice.
    and very timely, I'm glad to see he is getting exposure, because out of the entire group of labels at dsm his was the one I thought was the most appealing when it came to combining texture, some hardware and simplicity. i found a simple a line dress (think wednesday adams) black, of course, with links and hoops all around the chest area, as if it was suspended. sounds complicated but oh so simple. the fabric was slightly rigid and had a ribbed texture, black on black. price was surprisingly affordable and so reasonable for the workmanship and thought that went into making it. some of the more elaborate pieces were a bit harder to wear but not in a metro setting. Rei sure can pick them...

  7. #427
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Thank you, rider. I knew out of everyone here you would appreciate this. The rest of you can now go back to copping geobaskets.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Rei Kawakubo has a new protege working under her auspices. His line is Noir Kei Ninomiya. Currently it's only sold at DSM worldwide. The clothes are mind-blowing in level of construction and meticulous handwork.
    Really great shots and styling. The line looks amazing, I definitely need to see the pieces in person. Is the skirt in the first few pictures a patchwork of different materials? I saw some of his other stuff a little while back and I love the vibe that these pieces in the SZ editorial give off. A little less dainty than what I've seen before and more chain-maily/battle ready!




  9. #429
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  10. #430
    Senior Member kuugaia's Avatar
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    Looking to dive deeper into the Comme des Garcons universe and wondering if you guys had any books to recommend? Not interested in only the clothes/photography/stores but also the business side of things. I've read the articles of Adrian Joffe at BoF which were great.



    Currently it seems the Comme des Garcons (Universe of Fashion) is the most recommended I could find. ReFusing Fashion also seems not bad. Thanks in advance guys!

  11. #431
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    There will be a new book out later this year, to which I am contributing a long-ass-essay.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  12. #432
    Senior Member kuugaia's Avatar
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    ^ Awesome, looking forward to it. I'm sure you'll be sharing the contribution with us once it's published.

  13. #433

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    Really hoping the publisher is the same that did a recent poster for the SZ magazine release.... CdG is overdue for a true high water mark art book.

    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    There will be a new book out later this year, to which I am contributing a long-ass-essay.

  14. #434
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by underdog View Post
    Really hoping the publisher is the same that did a recent poster for the SZ magazine release.... CdG is overdue for a true high water mark art book.
    Unfortunately it's not Steidl. It will be a text-heavy book, not a coffee table book.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Unfortunately it's not Steidl. It will be a text-heavy book, not a coffee table book.
    Nice, kinda excited about a text-heavy CDG book!

  16. #436

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    A short trip through the Comme archives, courtesy of Vogue Japan.
    lavender menace

  17. #437

  18. #438

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    There will be a new book out later this year, to which I am contributing a long-ass-essay. [...] It will be a text-heavy book, not a coffee table book.
    Really looking forward to this. Any news on the publisher/when it will be out?

  19. #439
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Can't divulge anything yet. I'm so late on this... ugh...
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  20. #440

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    Didn't see this posted here yet. Apparently idea books found an old Comme des Garcons furniture catalogue:



    http://idea-books.com/commedesgarconsfurniture.html

    slideshow

    This is an article from the Chicago Tribune in 1988 about a Comme des Garcons furniture opening:

    The Missing Link Has Been Replaced By Wood For Comme Des Garcons

    May 29, 1988 | By Dylan Landis.

    In the beginning, fashion designer Rei Kawakubo sent her models down the runways wearing blue lips and bruised faces, skirts with sleeves and dark, baffling layers of clothes.

    She likes to "start from zero," she has said, as if her designs were the beginning of Design. And she once told Blueprint magazine: "A garment may be uncomfortable, but you still wear it if you like it."

    But furniture? If the chair you admire looks like a chain-link fence, will you still sprawl in it to read?

    Kawakubo built her first tables and chairs out of steel and granite in 1984 "to create a complete environmental setting for my clothes," she says. The tabletops looked like stone slabs that had been broken and re-glued. The chairs really did resemble chain-link fences.

    But the self-taught designer appears to have mellowed recently, introducing pastels and recognizable shapes into her fashions and, though she denies it, a new softness to her Comme des Garcons furniture.

    Her second collection-tables, benches, chairs, screens-is made with steel, aluminum, oak and pale, blond linden wood, a warmer marriage than metal and stone. Instead of steel mesh, which is riveting but leaves its imprint on the thighs, she offers wood seats and intriguing curves.

    A major American introduction of the new pieces will be held June 16 at City, Barry Bursak's avant-garde furniture store at 361 W. Chestnut St. (The only other American outlet is a Comme des Garcons boutique in San Francisco.) "To say these chairs aren't comfortable isn't accurate," says Bursak, whose store also carries Comme des Garcons clothes. "They are exquisite. When you sit in a chair and it makes you sit a certain way"-he slowly straightens his posture-"it gives you a certain elegance. In that sense, these chairs are extraordinary."

    Kawakubo's minimalist image is cultivated, calculated. She once designed a Comme des Garcons store in Tokyo that appeared empty; customers who prowled eventually found the clothes behind a glass screen. (Today, 342 stores around the world sell Comme des Garcons clothes.) And rumor has it that Kawakubo once declined to see a reporter because the reporter was wearing red.

    "It is an undeniable fact that design is reflective of the designer's personality," Kawakubo writes, in an interview that must be translated between English and Japanese, "though I do not view myself as harsh and stark. If I must characterize the essence of my furniture design, it is: simplicity.

    "Comme des Garcons furniture can come to its true essence when placed in an environment that is not too pretentious," she goes on. "One can enjoy them better when they are placed in, for instance, an entrance hall or hallway where there exists no constraint."

    The night before its big introduction, City will throw a private party. And Kawakubo, who likes to be in control of things, has decided-after looking at the store's blueprints-how everything should look that night.

    "The general idea," says Bursak amiably, "is that all the furniture is going to be put in a pile."

    If there is not enough furniture for a really good pile, Kawakubo will send more.

    "I think people will have to come back the day after," Bursak says,

    "to see what the furniture really looks like." -

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