Hussein Chalayan

[xcoldricex]

Re: Hussein Chalayan

thanks for the movie! my girlfriend just told me she saw it performed live, sigh, looks amazing.

[xcoldricex]

Re: Hussein Chalayan

[droogist]

Re: Hussein Chalayan



You're welcome coldrice.

Hi susie bubble! You're right, the H.Chalayan label is superb - great design, great quality, great price. Imo it's easily the best women's diffusion line on the market; that being said, I was recently forced to question whether this was entirely a good thing, when two girls I know showed up at a party wearing the exact same H.Chalayan dress in the exact same color. Eek. I suppose if you're wearing H&M it's reasonable to expect something like that to happen every now and again, but if you're wearing Chalayan I think "disappointment" probably doesn't even begin to describe the feeling...the poor dears...

[xcoldricex]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1

[quote user="Faust"]

I think his first menswear collections were pretty incredible, actually, especially the one where he imagined the clothes coming by mail in packages as gifts. Really beautiful.

[/quote]

i think that explains this shirt i got in japan

looks like the tearing of paper and cardbord after you rip a package open. i'm really curious to see what else was in this collection.

[Faust]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1

There were dress wool pants that said "Hussein Chalayan" and "Par Avion" inside the waist line. Some shirts you couldn't even open, because the button line (like yours) was sealed like a package (after you rip off the tab it looks like yours). It was a very cool collection.

[Faust]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1

All in all, I think he's done some pretty damn nice and very creative menswear. I know some of you might have gotten a wrong impression because I've seen stores buy his collections in horribly bad ways (Jeffrey in NYC being a prime example)

[laika]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1



Faust, thanks so much for posting this! I'm looking forward to your womenswear retrospective as well. [;)] I love the jackets especially. There is something kind of "cute" about this stuff, but in a very cool and smart way. I would love to see a guy wearing it.

So, to rant a bit, why do you think he has been failing commerically in the US? The diffusion line (which I love) seems to be stocked and selling well in quite a few places--Opening Ceremony has it every season, and Oak and South Willard (in L.A.) have started carrying it too. I've never cared much for Kirna Zabete, but I'm just furious with VBS--what is the point of the store, if they are just going to stock McQueen, V&R, and other things that are well represented in the US? (I'm exaggerating, but still!!!)

Is he just not enough of a name here? Or do people not appreciate the subtley executed conceptualism? I do think his clothes have a very intellectual aspect, but he's so good at translating his concepts into [wearable] garments. What is the deal, hmmm?

[Faust]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1

[quote user="laika"]

Faust, thanks so much for posting this! I'm looking forward to your womenswear retrospective as well. [;)] I love the jackets especially. There is something kind of "cute" about this stuff, but in a very cool and smart way. I would love to see a guy wearing it.

So, to rant a bit, why do you think he has been failing commerically in the US? The diffusion line (which I love) seems to be stocked and selling well in quite a few places--Opening Ceremony has it every season, and Oak and South Willard (in L.A.) have started carrying it too. I've never cared much for Kirna Zabete, but I'm just furious with VBS--what is the point of the store, if they are just going to stock McQueen, V&R, and other things that are well represented in the US? (I'm exaggerating, but still!!!)

Is he just not enough of a name here? Or do people not appreciate the subtley executed conceptualism? I do think his clothes have a very intellectual aspect, but he's so good at translating his concepts into [wearable] garments. What is the deal, hmmm?

[/quote]

Tomorrow, I will post the retrospective - too tired now and Shakespeare is on my mind.

As far as his unpopulairity here, I think there are several reasons. You nailed one of them. I think the stores are afraid to experiment and therefore end up buying boring pieces, which Chalayan has. As far as womenswear, he has a very particular cut, it's all very cropped, and none of it is GLAM. I have to say even Ann Dem. is glam in her own dark and edgy way. Chalayan is more peaceful. His more experimental pieces are VERY expensive, so stores shy away. I remember finding pieces at Century21 that buys direct from GIBO (European manufacturer that produces Chalayan clothes) that are infinitely more interesting than the ones I've seen at Kirna Zabete. He has never achieved the cult status in fashion that that, for example, CDG has, and therefore he does not have the idiosyncratic fan base with a fair amount of disposable income that a designer like that needs.

As far as menswear, it is very expensive compared to other designers. I've spoken to guys at Atelier, and they said that they go see his show every season, and almost buy it every season, but it's always just a bit expensive for what it is. They mentioned something about high tarifs on cotton. So, as much as they admire him as a designer, they don't think it will make them a profit.

So, that's the story. He almost went out of business once already, and his stints with the corporate world players like TSE and Asprey did not go well. I just hope he can sustain himself financially. Thank G-d for the Asian markets!

I think at one point Barneys may try experimenting with him. As far as I'm concerned, he is a big hole in their repertoire.

[dontbecruel]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1



I'm still unconvinced. I've tried on a few of these things in the flesh and I never felt they were especially luxurious.
Too many of them are based on the concept of layers being stitched together. To the people looking at you it looks like you're wearing normal layers, but the wearer can't take layers off or add them as the temperature changes. That's bad applied design isn't it: reducing the functional adaptability of a traditional garment. Surely this is not what Chalayan's supporters mean by "conceptual design". At least when Top Shop make a v-neck ladies sweater with a fake tee stiched in there is an idea behind it: for it to be more flattering and less bulky than two real layers.
I can't see anything in common with his womenswear here and if it wasn't for the label I don't believe you could guess they were designed by the same person. The headphone and walkman pockets are so vulgar!

[dontbecruel]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1

[quote user="Faust"]

two layered shirt

[/quote]

This shirt is an exception to what I was saying. There is a texture and hang created by the two layers that is new and I imagine looks and feels quite alluring to wear. That's what I want out of clothes.

[Faust]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1

[quote user="dontbecruel"]

I'm still unconvinced. I've tried on a few of these things in the flesh and I never felt they were especially luxurious.
Too many of them are based on the concept of layers being stitched together. To the people looking at you it looks like you're wearing normal layers, but the wearer can't take layers off or add them as the temperature changes. That's bad applied design isn't it: reducing the functional adaptability of a traditional garment. Surely this is not what Chalayan's supporters mean by "conceptual design". At least when Top Shop make a v-neck ladies sweater with a fake tee stiched in there is an idea behind it: for it to be more flattering and less bulky than two real layers.
I can't see anything in common with his womenswear here and if it wasn't for the label I don't believe you could guess they were designed by the same person. The headphone and walkman pockets are so vulgar!

[/quote]

Interesting, I actually love the layerd look, because a lot of the times it's not an entire layer, but only a part of a layer, so it actually becomes better. For example - I HATE dress shirts, but I have to wear them to work sometimes. One of the things I am hunting for is the Alexander McQueen (or other designer) cashmere sweater with a dress shirt collar attached to it - this way I can just wear a simple tee underneath.

[laika]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1



Lovely selections, Faust! I have apair of flatswith a woven detail from that 06 collection . This whole thread is just gorgeous...every piecefeels likea secret (to usesomeone'sexpression from earlier).

To quote you: (couldn't figure out how to post with thequote in blocks....maybe because I broke it up?)

"I think the stores are afraid to experiment and therefore end up buying boring pieces, which Chalayan has. As far as womenswear, he has a very particular cut, it's all very cropped, and none of it is GLAM. I have to say even Ann Dem. is glam in her own dark and edgy way. Chalayan is more peaceful. His more experimental pieces are VERY expensive, so stores shy away. I remember finding pieces at Century21 that buys direct from GIBO (European manufacturer that produces Chalayan clothes) that are infinitely more interesting than the ones I've seen at Kirna Zabete. He has never achieved the cult status in fashion that that, for example, CDG has, and therefore he does not have the idiosyncratic fan base with a fair amount of disposable income that a designer like that needs."

Right on. He is definitely not "classically" avant-garde in the way that CDG is, and not nearly as obvious-- his clothes don't project anrecognizable aesthetic/lifestyle. Of course, his label is significantly younger as well. I hadn't thought about the glam thing before, but it makes perfect sense. The sensibilityis moreabout intimacy than about sex;more about wearing the clothes than showing them. This, of course, negates many of the reasons for which people "dress up," at least in the US.

Really beautiful thread...I just love *thinking* about these clothes.

[Fuuma]

Re: The Fabric of Life - Sleek Magazine interview w/Hussein Chalayan, Pt. 1

Interesting use of additional fabric, the "flaps" add some form of geometric/cubist dimension to a piece that could appear boring on a casual viewing. Its this sort of detail that made me get a cloak military trench (F/W05 I think, maybe 06) that could have ended up being just another slim cut "gothic" trench.

[justine]

Chalayan house turns 15

Just some of the most amazing fashion moments, everybody has to watch this:

http://www.style.com/video/fashion-moments/8615595001

[laika]

After Words is truly one of the greatest moments in fashion history....the image of that girl stepping into the table and pulling it up as a skirt is forever burned into my brain.

thank you so much, justine.