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Thread: Undercover / Undercoverism

  1. #181

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    Same here, I think it's ok to get some basics at low prices, but I wouldn't reach for the jackets.

  2. #182

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    Well to be fair, it looks as uninspiring as the last couple of Undercover collections.
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

    STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

  3. #183

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    Re: Uniqlo Collab

    This makes way more sense than Jil or most other designer to mass market tie ups.

    There is so much more for the designer to explore close to the mainstream. That short plaid shirt very clever.

    And when many of the designer's interests and design values are in detail and functionality, cleverness over luxury, this fits.

    And fuck it, a proper summer wardrobe update for the whole family for the price of a single dipped trainer.....

  4. #184

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    I don't see how this makes more sense than J. In fact, I thought J produced some really nice garments that were basic and versatile while also being very original and well thought out. This stuff is so incredibly boring, if you didn't know it was by Undercover you probably wouldn't look twice (perhaps with the exception of the biker jacket, which even looks awful in the stock photo).
    ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
    Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

  5. #185

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    Jil built her brand using the most expensive fabrics in the known universe. She even brought tears to the eyes to a man who can spend tens of millions on a slow moving sail boat.

    Tying a fabric diva to a pound stretching mass market company doesn't naturally fit.

    I concede that there are some similarities in design values. Jil never overworked the design, and uniqlo would fret over the cost of a dart. So they may sometimes have ended up in the same place by accident....

  6. #186

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    Since the announcement of this project, I have heard a lot of opinions, both pro and con. Some say they can’t make heads or tails out of UNIQLO’s intention in partnering with UNDERCOVER, and others say they are expecting to see something truly innovative come out of this collaboration of polar opposites. It is only natural to think that opinions would be divided.

    More than a year ago, when I first heard this talk, I questioned this project; to be honest, my first thought was “Why us?” It may be my personality, but at the same time, I felt a combination of apprehension and curiosity. At first, just to satisfy my curiosity, I wanted to hear from the people in charge who were really passionate.

    Talks began with the reason for the request from UNIQLO, “We want the creations for the Japanese to reach people around the world.” To which I replied, “What should I do?” “What can we accomplish?” “Do we have anything in common, and if so what?” As I asked these questions I found myself gradually becoming interested in this project. We had several more discussions, as a result of which, an idea popped up almost simultaneously from both sides: “clothes for mom, dad and the children; clothes for the family.” We had found our common ground.

    As far as children’s clothing is concerned, as UNDERCOVER announced some 10 years ago, because we were unable to balance production volume and cost, we had to sadly give up. My wife, RICO, did the designing. RICO is really fabulous at creating children’s clothes. One of the main reasons why I decided to do this project and resume making children’s clothes was the fact that the line had so many fans. Another big reason was that I wanted to offer our creations to people who until now had never heard of UNDERCOVER. In this regard, we have a bigger footprint than other brands. It would be a wonderful thing to have many people wearing the clothes I had designed. Price-wise and design-wise UNDERCOVER clothing was not for everyone, but now it could be.

    That said, if I made such clothes with strong design elements that I have always done, this collaboration would never have come about. The basic idea of Uniqlo is “low priced products everyone can wear.” The role of UNDERCOVER is to add a little spice to that basic principle. You might say that adding a “spoonful of spice” is what this project is all about.

    Some people might say that this project is not what UNDERCOVER is about; then again others might say it’s “just right.” Everyone has their opinion, so there are of course going to be pros and cons. The results of my spoonful of spice on our collaboration can be seen on the “uu” site and in our catalog. Designs recognizable by everyone. I thought at that time, what design can I infuse in basic clothing? It’s not going to work if you add too much or remove too much. Where do you stop? The first season was in a manner of speaking a series of trials and errors. The selection of fabrics and colors, cost vs. design, how to stay balanced and edgy. It meant using a totally different headset than before to design clothes for uu that are completely different from UNDERCOVER. It was a really difficult task.

    Now all the designs for the second season have been finished. For me, in the second season I was able to finally get a feel for the shape of this collaboration. Last week, we already held the second season individual color sample approval meeting. (The approval meeting is where all the key members of the project, starting with President Yanai, meet to hear an explanation of the new products.) After running through the product descriptions, President Yanai said, “Truly amazing, I’m really impressed!” Looking at the second season, it seemed to me that President Yanai could see the part UNDERCOVER had played in the collaboration. At that moment I felt the question “What should I do for Uniqlo?” was clearly answered. It would appear my idea to “add a spoonful of spice” had been accepted. (I don’t know if 100%, but I just might ask President Yanai the next time I see him).

    Whether or not this collaboration will continue in the future has not been decided yet, but in any case a new page in my life has been written. As always, I try my best and never cut corners.

    A new endevor for a new era.

    A project only UNDERCOVER can undertake.

    “We offer families something positive in these tough times.” That is the thinking behind uu designs. I sincerely hope your family enjoys our clothes.

    Jun Takahashi
    honeyee

  7. #187

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    Chilton is going to love this.

    I personally feel he's not really saying anything.
    ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
    Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

  8. #188

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    A project only UNDERCOVER can undertake.
    erm, plenty of others have already fell for it
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

    STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

  9. #189

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    Seeing all this enjoyment within the lines, he probably doesn't give a fuck anymore.

  10. #190

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    don't shoot me, but did anyone check out the UU collection? what do you think? i found it to be SO underwhelming, and by that i mean it was mostly crap. men's stuff is slightly better, but really not much.

  11. #191
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    A project only UNDERCOVER can undertake.
    If only Undercover understood the underpinnings of their under-the-radar appeal, they would not underestimate how underwhelming this undergraduate collection is.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  12. #192

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    xxxxx
    Last edited by Dropt; 09-09-2012 at 04:38 PM.

  13. #193

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    .
    sain't
    .

  14. #194

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    has anyone seen new uc collection? really not feeling the uniqlo collab

  15. #195

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    That is correct. The but beautiful 2 collection is subtitled as a tribute to svankmajer.

  16. #196

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    Quote Originally Posted by safeword123 View Post
    don't shoot me, but did anyone check out the UU collection? what do you think? i found it to be SO underwhelming, and by that i mean it was mostly crap. men's stuff is slightly better, but really not much.
    the kids stuff has been far and away the highlight in both collections and I think it's really adorable.

    The rest is at best an improvement on what are usually very bland uniqlo staples; and at worst, ill-fitting renditions of undercover staples. at any rate, i guess no one was very pleased with it, because the collaboration is over.

    I have to say I'm amazed at the complete lack of publicity, relative even to other uniqlo collabs (which are pretty low key to begin with)...
    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  17. #197

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    Agree with Laika. handled a majority of it, most felt cheap and looked uninteresting. totally underwhelming, as expected. Jun really shot himself in the foot, he could've either done something interesting or not do it at all. Then again "interesting" is perhaps and overstatement when it comes to anything produced by a company like uniqlo.
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

    STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

  18. #198
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Poor Jun :(
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  19. #199

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    agreed. I did think he chose lovely colors (as usual) but, for the most part, the cheapness of the fabrics really undermined any little details that would have made the pieces special.

    on the bright side, and speaking of color, I've been loving these little documentaries around the fall collection...a nice continuation of the quotidian theme he's been exploring.

    go here to watch: http://www.undercoverism.com/psychocolor/
    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  20. #200

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    the question i have on my mind now, is what next for undercover?

    i know UU was created with the idea of making well designed clothes more accesible, but i'm certain it was all about money. now that it's proven to have been a flop, can Jun simply carry on with season after season aiming to create something entirely new each time? perhaps his strive for something so different for each collection will be his demise.

    with things not looking so good financially for UC from afar, things don't seem to be looking good for the label. to be honest, it baffles me as to who is buying new season undercover at retail.

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