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Thread: Undercover / Undercoverism

  1. #221

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    How did you swing that, being in Italy and all?
    ahem... It's very embarassing for me, but I'm not sure I understood what "swing that" means... Undesired consequences of me not learning english at school, but from ODB's songs

    Swing that = swing that ODB song or
    Swing that = buy that coat?

    Again, embarassing question: sorry...

  2. #222

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    He's wondering how a guy in Italy was able to get one of the most extremely limited articles of clothing, of which people are still standing in lines for. Frankly, I'm quite curious myself, seeing as that trench coat sold out in every size in about 18-90 seconds

  3. #223

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    Quote Originally Posted by scanner View Post
    He's wondering how a guy in Italy was able to get one of the most extremely limited articles of clothing, of which people are still standing in lines for. Frankly, I'm quite curious myself, seeing as that trench coat sold out in every size in about 18-90 seconds
    Isn't it just a matter of timing when buying it online? If you have a direct link and you CC info saved you have a small chance of beating the bots. From what I've heard some stuff was sold out withing the first 20 seconds.

  4. #224
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I suppose my question was do they even ship internationally?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  5. #225

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    Sure, I would understand the Bot scenario, and its possible from Italy a USA address has been used. Supreme has a very tough checkout procedure with international orders, this is why they set up different drop dates globally (Japans is on the 28th).

  6. #226

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    I suppose my question was do they even ship internationally?
    It would be the first time I'd have heard of it. Maybe he ordered from the UK Site yesterday.

  7. #227

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    Thanks for replying and -again- sorry for silly question....

    I get it from UK/European site, some hours ago (they already shipped it!!!) and yes, they ship regularly to Italy.

    As for the quick sold out... my e-commerce skills are way much better (and faster) than my english language skills ;)

  8. #228
    Senior Member DudleyGray's Avatar
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    "#UNDERCOVER is launching an archive collection, MAD ARCHIVES this fall. It is a carefully selected line that reintroduces pieces from past collections but with a new twist. #アンダーカバー はこの秋、アーカイブコレクションの展開を開始致します。これまで発表したコレクションの中から厳選したア イテムを新たな解釈でリプロダクトした新しいラインです。"

    Uh, wait, what?

  9. #229

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    That sounds pretty exciting :)

  10. #230
    Senior Member DudleyGray's Avatar
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    Really? I think it's a bullshit cash grab, and somehow this is more offensive to me than any collaboration he's done. But maybe that's just me and I'm a little surprised by my reaction to this actually.

  11. #231

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    I don't find it a bad thing in principle. Some undercover designs were very good and also very limited. I don't see anything wrong with making them available again to people who are interested. How is it any different than a designer re-releasing the same piece each season?

  12. #232
    Senior Member DudleyGray's Avatar
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    Jonio always strove to do something new like Rei, whereas Rick made it clear that he was basically just doing his thing with slight variation. Jonio seemed to always push this punk ethos, what with that long manifesto he stitched into his clothes. I thought the collabs were forgivable and even justifiable, but this is just bad taste. If he wants to revisit old UC, he's more than capable of designing in that spirit instead of the very hit or miss stuff he's been putting out in recent years, and I could look past the misses. I'm kind of drunk from karaoke so apologies if this isn't completely coherent. I did it wearing a uc fit, not sure how that's relevant but man I want some tacos.

  13. #233

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    Well, I'm usually the last one to know about things, so I always think: I wish I'd known about.... And there a few designers who I wish would re-release some of their past collections (Yohji!!!).

    As far as re-releasing past designs, even Rei does that: isn't that what the Evergreen line is? Reissues of past designs?

    Anyway, I just think it makes past designs accessible to people who may appreciate them.

    Edit: but on your main point, I completely agree- I, too, desperately want some tacos!

  14. #234
    Senior Member DudleyGray's Avatar
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    Yeah I don't know, I may just be trying to rationalize for the sake of my wallet, I can't handle having to split my funds across Rick and Undercover or the mental weight of tracking and poaching two labels. But my instinct tells me with Jun, I'm being made a sucker somehow, like despite anything he's said, his actions show that he's just packaging and selling punk culture/ethos without actually being a punk at heart. I don't get that feel from Rick, and when the stuff costs this much money, I don't like feeling had.

  15. #235
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    You think a man who was in a band called the Tokyo Sex Pistols was not a punk at heart?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  16. #236
    Senior Member DudleyGray's Avatar
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    The Sex Pistols were barely punk as it is, and tribute bands where you dress up and pretend to be your idols is most certainly not punk, so I can't say that's very convincing.

    I think Jun appreciates punk culture and even engages with it, but more and more it looks to me that he is outside of it as he fetishizes and exploits it. The timing of this news just after the Supreme collab when he's been presenting less extreme designs, the VIP service he gives to high dollar customers, the Uniqlo collab after his anti fashion cycle label, it's become a Bill Cosby scenario, too much to ignore.

    I'm sure he has good and understandable motives for his decisions, but then so do all sellouts.Hah, I realize I'm making this out to be a lot more serious than it probably is, but at that price I want to be able to believe in it.

  17. #237

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    What VIP service are you talking about?

  18. #238

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    Undercover, like many Japanese labels actually, offers VIP buyers the first grab on a lot of pieces. It's a model that has been popularized by Visvim lately, where they have trunk shows and invite people they know drop some money on the brand to order whatever they like from the next season. It's nothing unusual in Japan in my opinion and a good way to get your customers what they want without having to over produce.

    I also have to disagree on the "sellout" argument for Jun. Part of running a label is running a business for one thing. The collabs with supreme, uniqlo and nike among others help to pay the bills and keep the label afloat, while at the same time giving the brand exposure and possibly even producing some cool stuff. Again, this is not unusual. Yohji has collaborated with adidas, new era and evangeleon. Rick has done adidas and eastpack. Plokhov did uniqlo too. To say that you can't do high-profile collaborations and maintain integrity is disingenuous in my opinion.

    Lastly the music issue. For a designer to base entire collections around and make specific references to relatively obscure bands and musicians (including television, jesus & mary chain, can, guru guru, embryo and klaus schultz), I don't think you call it exploitative. He likes what he likes and makes references to it. I don't think there's that much money in Marquee Moon album cover reproductions to call it a cash grab or anything like that.

  19. #239
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DudleyGray View Post
    The Sex Pistols were barely punk as it is, and tribute bands where you dress up and pretend to be your idols is most certainly not punk, so I can't say that's very convincing.

    I think Jun appreciates punk culture and even engages with it, but more and more it looks to me that he is outside of it as he fetishizes and exploits it. The timing of this news just after the Supreme collab when he's been presenting less extreme designs, the VIP service he gives to high dollar customers, the Uniqlo collab after his anti fashion cycle label, it's become a Bill Cosby scenario, too much to ignore.

    I'm sure he has good and understandable motives for his decisions, but then so do all sellouts.Hah, I realize I'm making this out to be a lot more serious than it probably is, but at that price I want to be able to believe in it.
    I think it's more that he has just grown up and his worldview has shifted along with his responsibilities. C'est la vie. To be sure he's made some questionable moves - especially the sustainability credo tags followed my the Uniqlo collab was an absolute disaster. But, compared to someone like Raf, who has completely jettisoned everything his clothes have stood for, I think Jun retains some level of integrity.

    I don't think the Supreme collab was a sellout move at all. Supreme is untouchable in terms of its reputation no matter what they do. They are the Comme des Garcons of streetwear.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  20. #240
    Senior Member DudleyGray's Avatar
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    I do respect Supreme and what they do, in spite of everything surrounding them. I have a camp cap of theirs because I wanted a nice waterproof cap for the rain. The collaboration between them and UC did make enough sense aesthetically, but the timing of this archival announcement is what makes me wary.

    UC didn't do this kind of thing after the Uniqlo collaboration, which was exposure on a much larger scale. To me, the announcement says "OK, now we've been introduced to a demographic that is willing to spend a lot on clothes. They've had a chance to see what we're about and want past pieces that aren't available. Let's cash in on that."

    I understand that fashion is incorrigably a business, but it's also luxury and class, and that should involve some tact. Yes, I know I'm a sucker to pay exhorbitant amounts for a pair of jeans, but let's not make that too explicit.

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