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Thread: Undercover / Undercoverism

  1. #81
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    Those patchwork jeans are entirely made by hand. That's just mental.

    P.S. Been enjoying my superdestryed jeans immensely!!!
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  2. #82

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    ^ ah, insanely jealous. i would not refuse the dress pant version with ripped knees. i realised that imagehost resized the interview. please click on this link for a slightly larger version.

  3. #83
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    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  4. #84

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    YES

    It seems to have a nice sensibility to the editing as well.

  5. #85

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    http://blog.honeyee.com/jtakahashi/a...07/15/-un.html

    Undercover x Uniqlo for later this year and 2012. Seeing as +J has come to an end (and has been getting more rubbish by the season), and Uniqlo have been cutting down on end quality and increasing prices, I'm not sure how I feel about this. Hopefully there should be something nice though
    "Lots of people who think they are into fashion are actually just into shopping"

  6. #86

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    I'm a little disappointed by the collaboration mainly because i think it really marks the change in Jun, he seems to be contradicting himself quite a bit, and with recent collections there hasn't been enough to tie them together.

    http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/tag/jun-takahashi/

    A few months ago, you relaunched Nowhere — your first retail experience from about 15 years ago, in collaboration with Nigo — at Dover Street Market in London. It seems that everyone is doing collaborations these days, including Rei Kawakubo with her almost simultaneous teaming with Louis Vuitton & H&M, and now Jil Sander for Uniqlo. What do you think of those?

    "I find their collaborations far too business-oriented. In the early ’90s, when there was no such thing as a category called collaboration in the fashion industry, I worked with Nigo just because we were very good friends and wanted to create something purely out of interest. We just enjoyed working together without thinking of our activity as business. Under the current difficult economic situation, such collaborations between the big maisons have impact. But to me, they seem to lack a pure intention to pursue something for fun or creativity. In other words, their collaborations are productive only in terms of business. If you ask me whether or not I’m interested in such kind of collaboration, my answer would have to be “no.”"
    I also distinctly remember reading an interview in iD i think, where he said he'd never make a basic logo'd t-shirt or something. I'm sure he did in the Uraharajuku days but he's doing them now, just another example.

    I still find good items i want to wear in recent UC collections but it doesn't feel like he's as passionate about clothes anymore (probably more interested his other creative outlets). I guess business comes first with UC now. A bit cynical maybe, but the concept being AW11 Mirror gives an opportunity to just make items that fit a trend without appearing to sell out. I think there'll be some good stuff with the Uniqlo collab however, but if it's just standard Uniqlo quality i don't think i'll want to buy anything.
    Last edited by ashveil; 07-15-2011 at 03:36 AM.

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by syed View Post
    http://blog.honeyee.com/jtakahashi/a...07/15/-un.html

    Undercover x Uniqlo for later this year and 2012. Seeing as +J has come to an end (and has been getting more rubbish by the season), and Uniqlo have been cutting down on end quality and increasing prices, I'm not sure how I feel about this. Hopefully there should be something nice though
    I wouldn't hold your breath. Hey, at least maybe we can get some GILA tshirts cheap!
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  8. #88

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    I know, it's a bit of an empty wish. But I'm hoping there will be at least one or two basics that are interesting enough to buy - approach it like it is high street (which it is) I guess.
    "Lots of people who think they are into fashion are actually just into shopping"

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashveli View Post
    I'm a little disappointed by the collaboration mainly because i think it really marks the change in Jun, he seems to be contradicting himself quite a bit, and with recent collections there hasn't been enough to tie them together.

    http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/tag/jun-takahashi/



    I also distinctly remember reading an interview in iD i think, where he said he'd never make a basic logo'd t-shirt or something. I'm sure he did in the Uraharajuku days but he's doing them now, just another example.

    I still find good items i want to wear in recent UC collections but it doesn't feel like he's as passionate about clothes anymore (probably more interested his other creative outlets). I guess business comes first with UC now. A bit cynical maybe, but the concept being AW11 Mirror gives an opportunity to just make items that fit a trend without appearing to sell out. I think there'll be some good stuff with the Uniqlo collab however, but if it's just standard Uniqlo quality i don't think i'll want to buy anything.
    I actually think that his company is not doing well, so the business-first philosophy might be simply fighting for survival. But, yeah, agree that he's been floundering a bit. But the latest collection looks good!
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  10. #90

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    I could see the uniqlo thing being okay if it's anything like the Undercover x Nike stuff which is great, but that's mostly on account of the materials so definitely not holding my breath.

  11. #91

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    uniqlo x undercover is the stupidest thing uc could have done.


    i mean, just a few seasons ago, jun put this message ON EVERY GARMENT, BAG, AND SHOE. EVERY SINGLE PRODUCT!


    2010 Autumn-Winter UNDERCOVER/UNDERCOVERISM
    The mentality of reverse running
    Current ready-to-wear collections are primarily aimed at celebrities or fashion insiders. This fashion produced for the catwalk only lives in the magazines, it is totally detached from reality. This ‘unreal’ system is sustained by the fashion and marketing industry. On the other side mass produced and cheap clothes now determine fashion trends. But is there any passion embedded in this soulless mass production of cheap garments? Promotion and marketing consume most of the money the sales of these clothes generate. Ordinary consumers are attracted to fast fashionchain stores and even form long queues outside them. Money has become the new authority, this is the new trend. Everything has become associated to money. Is this what fashion is ultimately about? What role does fashion or design play in this scenario? The reason why we at UnderCover like to pursue fashion is because we believe that fashion enriches our daily lives. Although our clothes may not be the one, they are still properly designed. We try to embed love and passion into every single item we design and produce. This is our style. It would be great if more consumers would support our philosophy of this. Our aim is to build a community of like minded people who strive with us towards a different reality where the true values of fashion matter again. Last collection’s theme was Less But Better. With our integrating issues of daily life. We call it UnderCover



    and now he is doing EXACTLY what he is preeching for people not to do.

    i personally have lost a lot of respect for this brand.

  12. #92

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    .....
    Last edited by Archaics; 02-08-2014 at 07:15 AM.

  13. #93
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    Too true, ISM, too true.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  14. #94
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    /\ Nonsense. Not to say bullshit.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  15. #95

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    Quote Originally Posted by Archaics View Post
    I think if at this point Jun's objective is to make his clothes and design philosophy more accessible and to infuse some meaning and worth into fast fashion then these collabs are the right way to go about it.
    ehhh, we all know designers say that they are trying to spread their idea of great design through broader distribution, but the people who are seriously shop these designers and know about these brands know its all bullshit and money related. fast fashion and high fashion together - it just doesn't work, especially for designers like jun.

    just look at cdg h&m. you cannot take a brand like comme des garçons, who feeds an extremely educated group of fashion enthusiasts and rich men and women, and allow a brand like h&m to take all the old designs and patterns and give them rights to sell them to the masses. its almost disrespectful to cdg buyers. as we all know, the results were HORRIBLE and I am sure everyone at CDG regrets that.

    you have to realize that there are about 20-40 of the world best boutiques buying undercover each season (browns, dover street, ikram, ect) that have a clientele that expect nothing but perfection from this brand. it really ruins a brands image, philosophy, and to go mass produced, this sort of design is not meant to be bought by the masses.

    as for the nike thing, that was a little bit different. the prices were still up in under covers level, it attracted runners (but i mean come on, who jogs in a 600 dollar nylon jacket), and distribution was pretty limited.

    i don't think jun is doing this because he wants to push his ideas through, he is already an established designer, he can do that through his own brand. i think that undercover is just financially doing bad and could not adjust to the economy. this is where they are making up for the loss.

  16. #96

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilton0326 View Post
    Archaics, I love your post, and totally agree with everything you say.

    Furthermore, as a Jun Takahashi fan, the end result of the Uniqlo collaboration doesn't even concern me much.
    its one thing to look at UC online and be a fan, but do you actually spend money buying UC??


    Quote Originally Posted by Chilton0326 View Post
    And I think the people who work for stores like Macy's and Uniqlo aren't purely capitalist either. Behind such goliath-sized companies are people who love fashion too, and when they ask the heads to put their monies behind some designer they love (Kinder Aggugini, Juun J, Takahashi, etc), they're definitely in part just trying to get financial support thrown to a designer they love. This sort of sweetness does happen a decent amount in the entertainment field
    thats a bit nieve. these type of companies are looking for one thing... profits. to say that they are doing these collaborations out of generosity, is stupid. the underlining motive is money. uniqlo thinks that if they can finance jun to make a collection, then they can get lines queuing up at their stores, and make millions. they wouldn't do this if they knew it wouldn't sell.

  17. #97
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    /\ I think we found our new great contrarian. Full of BS, but keeps chugging. Look, buddy, everybody knows these collaborations are purely done for money from the designer's side and for marketing from the big brand side.

    Rei Kawakubo said the same thing - we are going to do it our way, bla, bla, we are doing everything ourselves. And what did she tell WWD after? I would never do it again.

    We on SZ tend to wax poetic about designers more than anyone else probably, but let's have some reality checks once in a while.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  18. #98

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilton0326 View Post
    The best example I can offer is Kinder Aggugini
    oh there's no hope...

  19. #99

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilton0326 View Post
    As for Uniqlo, just saying that Jun wasn't their only option. They can make reasonable profits by using almost any major designer. By choosing one who's something of an oddball, I feel it means some people there also dig his work.
    the most likely picked UC because the label has enough of a cult / seemingly underground status to generate plenty of hype.

    look, I see what you are trying to say, and I'm sure someone at Uniqlo likes UC, but I think you are still giving them way, way too much credit when you talk about "love" and "sweetness" towards a designer.
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

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  20. #100

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    At the end of the day designer big box retailer (uniqlo), large corporate company (nike) collaborations do ten times more for the designer than the large company. Uniqlo's profits are not derived from the designer collaborations or initiatives they have done, no matter the scale. Profits for these companies will always be based in the most basic of goods they produce at volume (t- shirts, jeans, shirts, socks, etc.). These collaborations are press initiatives and help to establish many smaller more unknown designers to a wider audience. Yes they also drive foot traffic to the stores in question as well. Many times these are done from a creative branding standpoint by these larger companies, loss and profit are not as important on these projects. Its a way for the larger companies to position themselves better with a more fashion conscious consumer.

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