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Maison Martin Margiela

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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    Originally posted by Joe1979 View Post
    Hi,

    I heard that Maison Martin Margiela is doing a collection for H&M. Has anyone already seen some pices? What may we expect? Can this make sense?

    Regards, joe
    You can expect a hell of a firestorm if you write on this forum before you read it.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • nostromodo
      Member
      • Jan 2011
      • 68

      Lol..Joe, U can find a thread about H&M X Margiela. Just try to search it.

      Comment

      • Joe1979
        Junior Member
        • Jun 2012
        • 5

        thank you for the brilliant hint regarding the search function... disappointingly this does not return any results when looking for "h&m", so i could not find anything. after some re-tries i recognised a search for "h&m + margiela" is successful...so i guess the search function is not truly effective

        Comment

        • Faust
          kitsch killer
          • Sep 2006
          • 37852

          Considering that there are two separate discussions (one with its own thread) going on first pages of two subforums, I don't know what else to tell you. Anyway, carry on.
          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

          Comment

          • underdog
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2009
            • 174

            It is hard to imagine a designer with the originality and understanding of fashion like Margiela could stop designing entirely. Has anyone heard of anything he has been doing since leaving his Maison? Curious if he had some sort of a non compete clause when leaving that might expire and signal a return. (Also surprised with HL in this regard, though he has had plenty of other visible creative enterprises since his departure).

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              He's just been chilling. He is an intensely private person and won't go on record, but I can advise you to lower your expectations.

              I can see how one could let go, especially if you have shied away from the press and had to work under Renzo Rosso.
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • Rosenrot
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2010
                • 518


                Vintage Terry Richardson for Dazed & Confused January 1999


                Peter Lindberg Vogue Italia FW1999
                Originally posted by Patroklus
                Better too adventurous than not enough
                everyone should strive towards ballsiness

                Comment

                • Rosenrot
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2010
                  • 518







                  I thought this thread could do with some pretty pictures to balance out all the moans about the loss of the man.
                  Last edited by Rosenrot; 08-13-2012, 09:44 AM.
                  Originally posted by Patroklus
                  Better too adventurous than not enough
                  everyone should strive towards ballsiness

                  Comment

                  • nostromodo
                    Member
                    • Jan 2011
                    • 68

                    I like the twin white tire tower..hehe:))

                    Comment

                    • Fuuma
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 4050

                      Can't find the MMM lines so let's give this thread a little kick.

                      0: collection artisanale for women & men (the couture pieces shown during the haute couture presentations, the men's line are "0 10")
                      " ": Défilé (runway) collection for women (entirely white label, the original collection, it used to be synonymous with line 1 but hasn't been so since 2008)
                      1: the collection for women (more intellectual and process oriented line)
                      3: Fragrance (came out 2012 (?), developped by L'Oréal)
                      4: a wardrobe for women (more dressy and "timeless" stuff)
                      mm6: garments for ♀ (used to be just 6, these are the basic garments collection is also called "basic garments for women")
                      8: eyewear collection
                      10: the collection for men (equivalent of line 1, started in SS99)
                      11: a collection of accessories for women & men
                      12: fine jewellery collection (the equivalent of say Dior Joaillerie, so pricier stuff made in partnership with Damiani group)
                      13: objects & publications
                      14: A wardrobe for men (equivalent of line 4, started SS05)
                      15: mail order (an april 1999 partnership with Les 3 Suisses where garments were sold through their catalogue in France and Benelux)
                      22: a collection of shoes for women and men (started in AW05-06, previously were in line 1 and 10 so I dunno where the 14 for shoes could come from)
                      Sartorial: capsule collection part of line 14, basically pricey menswear suits done the traditional way, blingbling gold lining with the words Martin Margiela
                      Replica: collections 4 and 14 often include "replica" items, you'll see the word on the tag and they're reproduction of vintage objects and the origin is mentionned in a short text
                      Aids t-shirt: a series of tees to provide money to french charity AIDES fighting, you guessed it "aids", there is a text you can read when the tee is folded but not when you're wearing it.

                      On the labels you have the numbers from 0 to 23 with the appropriate collection circled but not all of them are in use.
                      Last edited by Fuuma; 08-17-2013, 08:33 PM.
                      Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                      http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                      Comment

                      • michael_kard
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2010
                        • 2152

                        Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
                        12: fine jewellery collection (the equivalent of say Dior Joaillerie, so pricier stuff made in partnership with Damiani group)

                        Sartorial: capsule collection part of line 14, basically pricey menswear suits done the traditional way, blingbling gold lining with the words Martin Margiela
                        I'd be very interested to see photos of these.
                        ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
                        Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

                        Comment

                        • Fuuma
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 4050

                          Originally posted by michael_kard View Post
                          I'd be very interested to see photos of these.
                          Line 12 short vidéo, pictures are easy to find. Lots of pieces are like weird version of something else, like a ring that looks like a small bracelet.



                          I remember posting a Vogue article on Sartoriale when it came out, it's basically boring menswear stuff, could be Ralph Lipschitz Lauren. Some of the pieces are nice though, I remember a really good, thick trench. Prices are usually $2500 and + for anything though...
                          Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                          http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                          Comment

                          • ittalidaa
                            Senior Member
                            • Aug 2009
                            • 313

                            A few of my scans from 6+ Antwerp Fashion







                            http://cotonblanc.tumblr.com http://lacollectionneuse.tumblr.com

                            Comment

                            • interest1
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2008
                              • 3351

                              .
                              And I might as well add these. ;)



                              Press clipping after Margiela's first show, S/S 1989.




                              Telegram-style invitation to that first show.




                              .
                              sain't
                              .

                              Comment

                              • ittalidaa
                                Senior Member
                                • Aug 2009
                                • 313

                                And this article from Sphere (date unknown) might be of interest. I transcribed it from the 6+ Antwerp Fashion book.

                                Fashion's fresh faces
                                The label ‘Made in Belgium’ is makiing new waves in the fashion world. Sue Teddern reports that the country’s young designers are emerging in style.

                                It seems something of a paradox that Antwerp, the city that produced the ample-fleshed females, has now produced a fashion designer whose ideal woman is tall, rangy and assertive.

                                ‘She must look confident,’ says Dirk Van Saene, described by De Standaard newspaper as ‘the national textile industry’s great hope in hard times’. He continues: ‘She must have character in her face and she must be able to take risks. A woman who can wear what she likes and look good – someone like Fanny Ardant or Charlotte Rampling.’ He sighs. ‘If only Charlotte Rampling would wear my designs…’

                                We are sitting in the cluttered atelier above his small but well-situated shop within an Antwerp shopping plaza. His colleague, Sabine, irons an endless length of grey poplin, and Sada, an over-friendly English bull terrier, hurls itself affectionately at our ankles.

                                The two-year-old shop was the first of his big ambitions to be fulfilled. The second was winning last year’s Canette d’Or (Golden Spindle) contest in which seven of the country’s top young designers had been invited by the Belgian textile industry to represent their summer ‘84 collections. In his mid-20s, he is one of a number of new names who are stimulating fresh international interest in the Belgian clothing world. With people like Martin Margiela, Marina Yee, Ann Demeulemeester Dries Van Noten and Brussels’ Sylvie Van Reeth, he is beginning to raise eyebrows in the fashion capitals and the ‘Made in Belgium’ label is being pushed with no false modesty.

                                Undoubtedly La Canette d’Or did much to strengthen the cause. A show of the seven designers has since been seen as far afield as Japan, and it contains some noteworthy notions. The sources of inspiration for Walter Van Beirendonck for instance, were the works of Miró and Calder. He tried to convert their approach to clothing. And Dirk Bikkembergs presented a ‘boyish’ look based on American-Italian sportswear in which garments could find a reverse purpose. An undershirt could be worn as a coat, a coat as an undershirt.

                                ‘Internationally this country does not enjoy the reputation it deserves,’ says Van Saene. ‘For some reason people don’t expect anything to come from Belgium. But when our show was presented in Paris, I think the French were pleasantly surprised. Until recently, fashion came only from Paris. There was a kind of snobbishness but that’s beginning to change. My next ambition is to have a shop in Paris.’

                                He describes his own clothes as unromantic and a little masculine, with a strong silhouette. ‘I don’t use silk or frills. No Princess of Wales touches. Fabrics are mostly heavy cottons and poplins.’ ‘The inspiration for my summer collection came from the First World War uniforms and working clothes. And from the Brownies. I’m always looking for new ideas and I have to keep my eyes open all the time. Woody Allen’s film Zelig, for instance, gave me a lot of inspiration.

                                ‘I have learnt, however,that reality is very different to school. The Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts which I attended is one of the best in Europe. BUt as a fashion student, you can do what you like. I couldn’t possibly compare my current work with what I made at the academy. That was far more experimental. In the outside world you learn by your mistakes.’

                                As the textile industry’s ‘big hope’ he doesn’t appear appear to be making too many of those. Is there a lot of pressure on him? ‘I like the sobriquet,’ he replies. ‘It’s good for business, But Belgium is producing new talent every year. Sometimes I feel old. Then I remember that Jean-Paul Gaultier, one of my biggest heroes, is at the peak of his career and he is 31.’

                                Martin Margiela can recall the very moment he realised the impact fashion would have on his life. ‘I was watching the TV news and there was an item about Rabanne and Courreges. As soon as I saw their designs, I thought: How wonderful, people are doing the sort of things I want to do. Those Courreges boots with the cut-out toes confirmed it. I still feel that same emotion when I see something that is completely new.’

                                He was only a child then. Now, at 27, he is one of Belgium’s foremost young talent, another graduate of the Antwerp academy, and another participant in La Canette d’Or.

                                The inspiration for that collection came from a pair of turn-of-the-century surgical spectacles he found in Italy. His designs featured long skirts, draped gilets and wide t-shirts in white, shades of spice, marine blue, grey and black.

                                He shows one of them, an open-backed overall, like a surgeon’s gown which is currently being modelled by a tailor’s dummy. His studio is filled with books, sketches, piles of photos and magazines, a shoe here, a roll of cloth here, but the debris hints of a great industry and his busy schedule confirms it.

                                He too has a certain type of woman in mind when he designs: ‘Jane Birkin, Geraldine Chaplin, Diana Vreeland, Loulou de la Falaise… but not them especially. The kind of woman I mean has a certain ease of movement, certain hand gestures, a certain voice… you see her immediately and what she is wearing afterwards. Also,’ he says smiling, ‘I have a thing about women with big noses.’

                                He stresses the importance of the total look. Not just the clothes but the accessories too. So he has designed elegant shoes with a chunky, yet slender profiled heel, and a superb leather bag that almost flows from the hips when attached to a matching belt. ‘At the academy they placed great emphasis on the total look,’ he explains.

                                While the school has a great reputation, Margiela feels Antwerp is a good working environment. ‘I can’t explain why. Why is Paris better than Milan? You only have to walk along the streets here to see well-dressed, fashion-minded people. I hope I am aiming at them, the people without too much money. It’s not easy to be successful because of the economic climate but then fashion is at its most creative during times of crisis.’

                                Selling himself internationally as a Belgian designer isn’t’ always easy either, but like the others Margiela feels a change is coming.

                                ‘The Canette d’Or show in France made a lot of difference. The director of the Cotton Institute of Paris was there and liked my designs, and I was chosen to make the collection for their winter ‘86 promotion. That’s what I am working on now.’

                                Establishing a base in Paris is one of his future plans and he has already lived and worked in that other European fashion capital, Milan. ‘After a well-received collection, you make a bigger impact,’ he says. But the stomach-churning tension which invariably accompanies the conception of new ideas hasn’t left him. In fact he rather enjoys it. ‘I think it’s vital. When you are under that stress and it’s positive, everything you see inspires you. And those moments of inspiration are some of the happiest in my life.’

                                Sphere, date unknown
                                http://cotonblanc.tumblr.com http://lacollectionneuse.tumblr.com

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