Maison Martin Margiela

[Faust]

come on, cut him some slack - he said he is new to fashion. William - deconstruction is a bit of a vague term that was given to Margiela's work that consisted of showing what was traditionally hidden in a garment - exposed seams, raw edges, inverted selvage, etc, as well as to his tendency to take old garments apart and put them together in new ways. So, yes, you are correct.

[Heirloom]

yes, my perception of deconstruction is taking elements and details from conventional garments and put them back together in new ways. like putting a suit in a blender :)

[bakla]

In fashion it can also mean doing away with conventional forms of construction: i.e. finished seams, traditional linings, conventional patterns, etc, which is why fraying and unfinished hems have gotten categorized as deconstructed looks. Literally, it can reference 'doing without the usual forms of (garment) construction,' which is in a way an erroneous use of the word deconstruction.

[deleuze]

I think AKA was just laughing because no term has been bastardized more than deconstruction and hence taken on so many different meanings, many contradictory. It sounds so intuitive that most people don't realize it was a neologism with a rigorous meaning. Fashion criticism is one of the worst offenders. Phenomenological might be a better term for many of the garments referred to as deconstructive.

[maldoror]

It sounds so intuitive that most people don't realize it was a neologism with a rigorous meaning. Fashion criticism is one of the worst offenders.

truth

Phenomenological might be a better term for many of the garments referred to as deconstructive.

eh . . . maybe let's not? I think I know what you're getting at, but the last thing I want to hear about is e.g. the noumenality of margiela's tailoring. how about the essence of philosophy as characterized by your (user)namesake, of concepts in and of themselves, occupying a domain limited by philosophy as such. can we please leave phenomenology to phenomenology, and let poor old deconstruction be the pop whipping boy of misappropriation?

[Faust]

I think AKA was just laughing because no term has been bastardized more than deconstruction and hence taken on so many different meanings, many contradictory. It sounds so intuitive that most people don't realize it was a neologism with a rigorous meaning. Fashion criticism is one of the worst offenders. Phenomenological might be a better term for many of the garments referred to as deconstructive.

The thing is when Margiela started showing what was traditionally hidden, as bakla says - the fashion industry had no term for it, so they just used deconstruction.

[reborn]

to compliment other posts

what does deconstruction mean? i keep hearing it when reading about margiela. is it the same as unstructured when talking about jackets? i'm guessing it may be quite far but i have a few margiela trousers but no jackets so couldn't make a comparison.

With regard to MMM, he built his reputation by taking traditional uniforms and taking them apart (literally) and then re-created the form using luxe fabrics, quirky tailoring details and incorporating original details of the garment in odd places (to signify the origin of the garments material). The approach, at the time, was revolutionary and "original." Now, most of that deconstructive approach is still seen in the artisinal product (the groupe 0,1 and group 0,10).

[Faust]

Looks like they are keeping busy! A rare shot of the atelier.

[sbw4224]

The man himself:



Taken from the NY Times article:

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/02/fashion/shows/02MARGIELA.html?ref=fashion

[reborn]

sounds almost like DH hehehe

I loved reading that article. It's given me a newfound understanding about MMM as a whole and although I still don't "get" his menswear, the concepts behind the womenswear is more fleshed out know and a LOT more intriguing!

yeah, his womens wear has always been stronger and more directional than the menswear. Yet his clothes, think the early 2000s b/f Diesel, were intellectual but not cliche, tailored but far from routine, simple and still elegant. Basically, he understood and made the kind of clothes men want to wear...and b/f Diesel you could actually afford his stuff: I have about a half dozen pairs of pants which all cost less than $300 full price and plenty of tees and knitwear in the same comparable price range.

I think once Diesel purchased/invested in the label, there was a total change in production, design and focus.

[casem]

I dunno, I think minimalism takes the cake for most overused/misused term by the fashion media. I sigh a little every time I read a review that calls anything simple or paired down "minimalist".

I think AKA was just laughing because no term has been bastardized more than deconstruction and hence taken on so many different meanings, many contradictory. It sounds so intuitive that most people don't realize it was a neologism with a rigorous meaning. Fashion criticism is one of the worst offenders. Phenomenological might be a better term for many of the garments referred to as deconstructive.

[airboyair]

from hintmag:


01, 22, 16. Nope, it’s not bingo night; it's the filing system at Maison Martin Margiela, where each line has its very own numerical value. Adding to the mathematical fun this fall is a new line of fine jewelry, produced with Italy’s Damiani Group. But don’t expect dangly chandeliers from the bastion of la mode intellectuelle (well, unless they're actual chandeliers). Following previous mind-fricks, the twelve new pieces come in absurdist proportions and Wonderland-esque scale. Bracelets look like super-sized rings, rings look like enormous necklaces, earrings look like…well, you get the idea. We half expect to find a manifesto with a title like On the Deconstruction of Metallic Adornment in the Age of Capitalist Gigantism. But who cares? They’re pretty and shiny, and as covetable as anything else the house has conjured up in the last twenty years. Prices range from $925 to $83,000 (how's that for size?), at Margiela boutiques worldwide, Maxfield in Los Angeles and 10 Corso Como in Milan.

[Faust]

No wonder Margiela wants out. Rosso is really cracking the whip...

[airboyair]

reborn, for the pic, go to

http://www.hintmag.com/shoptart/shoptart.php

[laika]

So, I think this actually does look like the recent picture of a balding man posted on some Russian blog (I think from the St. Petersburg store opening). I don't remember how to find, but I think we had it somewhere here.

MM is not balding...according to staff at the boutique he has a ton of crazy red hair that he always wears under a hat and he dresses kind of punky. Also, he is extremely tall.