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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    Originally posted by surver View Post
    on the issue of pairing PH with others... it is a very difficult thing although wearing head-to-toe PH makes me feel too 'theatrical'... i remember way back a few years there was a photoshoot named 'kool old men' in the now defunct japanese magazine High Fashion's mens version (sorry suddenly forgot the name of the magazine) that really defined PH for me... i'll dig it up and post the image later tonight.

    i've been pairing my PHs with Mark Mcnairy's 8-pocket cargo pants lately that seems to work quite well, moving away from the typical SZ aesthetic of skinny [black] jeans...
    I don't have any difficulty pairing my PH coat with slim black trousers and a long Sarti scarf.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37852

      Originally posted by merz
      considering ph is a fairly literal interpretation of several precise moments in space/time, calling others out on copying the work is full of lol. just sayin. granted interesting things (can possibly) happen when the work and presentation is taken out of context. but.. ah. yeah.
      It is and it isn't. As Karlo Steele said in SZ mag interview, "There is nothing new about a one-button blazer, but when Raf Simons puts twenty of them on a runway, it's a statement." The same thing here. It is a pointed and uncompromising aesthetic and people have taken notice.
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        Originally posted by merz
        zam, maybe you have misread something in what i wrote? the issue is squarely that paul harnden cannot lay claim of ownership to the aesthetic the same way miyake could with pleats please. part of the reason being that the aesthetic in which he works stems from relatively direct interpretation of existing objects. he curates the aesthetic, and, in gaining traction, he sees others borrow influence either from him or in the vicinity of his inspiration, but they cannot legitimately be accused of copying him. Some of frank leder's or geoffrey small's work is technically quite comparable by way of patterning off of pieces that are 120-150+ years old.. dawson's as well, but thats a little closer to home.

        whether these people have more or less of an attachment to the aesthetic, what drives them to implement such cues into their output - entirely different matter.
        Considering that Dawson is responsible for virtually all the clothes at Harnden, this is invalid.
        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • lowrey
          ventiundici
          • Dec 2006
          • 8383

          stop speed posting noob
          "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

          STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            hahahaha, sorry!
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • kunk75
              Banned
              • May 2008
              • 3364

              and why would you? I think this is what makes PH a more expensive version of turn of the century sears or engineered garments. Pairing a rick blazer or early Raf or marginal stuff with simple pants just won't work. I don't know why Geoffrey doesn't get more love with all the ph beasting.


              Originally posted by Faust View Post
              I don't have any difficulty pairing my PH coat with slim black trousers and a long Sarti scarf.

              Comment

              • lowrey
                ventiundici
                • Dec 2006
                • 8383

                are you rating designers based on how easy or difficult they are to wear..?
                "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

                STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

                Comment

                • kunk75
                  Banned
                  • May 2008
                  • 3364

                  ^no lowery, i am just commenting on earlier discourse of wearability of paul harden and giving myself a chuckle thinking about miners asking their co-workers, "are these pants too slim for this overcoat?"

                  Comment

                  • MikeN
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2007
                    • 2205

                    Originally posted by merz
                    still? i thought she was no longer there, though i knew she designed there, hence closer to home. her own stuff looks, well, not interchangeable but related.
                    She's not, an apparently they don't speak to each other at this point either, but she does claim to have basically invented the clothing portion of the brand.

                    Originally posted by merz
                    two issues. fit (ph has recently put quite a lot of work into changing the fit of his jackets for instance, historical accuracy becomes secondary) and the fact that geoffrey's work hasn't become 'iconic' by way of being so easily-recognisable. ph uses similar approach to lapel construction in practically all of the jackets. etc.. geoffrey uses a lot of diverse historical pattern work. with some pieces, there is similarity by vector of where they draw inspiration..
                    I think this just goes to show that no one wants historical accuracy, or even an actual item from whichever era influences Harnden (which would explain why your items are sitting unsold on superfuture classifieds), they just want a nice jacket.

                    Originally posted by merz
                    ben, you're right of course - he is dreaming of a past that has never existed, because his is built on anachronisms and patterns from a span of time rather than an exact moment
                    but two pages ago you said
                    Originally posted by merz
                    considering ph is a fairly literal interpretation of several precise moments in space/time
                    so is it precise or is it imprecise?

                    Originally posted by merz
                    he's trying to evoke the spirit of something, not make historical reproductions..and he does adjust them considerably from what i can tell. but that does not change his commodity being the nostalgia/the past/a spirit of.. when you get down to ownership, that does make things a bit tricky.
                    Just because he has some historical influences, does not mean he doesn't "own" his product and he is incapable of being ripped off. He makes his clothes in a certain way, and he has his own little trademarks that are his own. So if some other designer makes a historically influenced (feels ridiculous writing this because every designer is historically influenced, and even some by a very precise moment in time/space) jacket, as long as they are influenced in their own way, then that way is now theirs to be copied.

                    Originally posted by merz
                    i think all of this championing has overlooked the fact that i (and i repeat this a million times) have never detracted from the quality of the man's work.
                    acknowledged

                    Comment

                    • MikeN
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2007
                      • 2205

                      Originally posted by merz
                      ben, you're right of course - he is dreaming of a past that has never existed, because his is built on anachronisms and patterns from a span of time rather than an exact moment, he's trying to evoke the spirit of something, not make historical reproductions..and he does adjust them considerably from what i can tell.
                      If I was reading this out of context, I would think you were talking about Thom Browne (funny this is the second time I've mentioned him in 24 hours on this thread). When he began his career (or rather when he first started gaining popularity) he stated that he basically wanted to make suits exactly like Kennedy wore. In his head, his memories from his youth told him that JFK wore high-water pants and short jacket sleeves, so that's what he went with. In some interview somewhere that I can't find, well after his collection was developed, he said that he went back over some photos of Kennedy from his youth and his presidency, and realize that he never dressed like that, and it was a memory of something that never existed. But since he was so far along he just went with it anyway.

                      Comment

                      • cjbreed
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 2712

                        i think mike looks good in it. just sayin
                        dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

                        Comment

                        • marco-von
                          Senior Member
                          • Feb 2009
                          • 133

                          Tweed blazer on, drinking some pimms...watching the young female cousin you've had a wetdream about a few times play croquet on the well groomed lawn. Your father with his rifle cocked over his shoulder fingering the african maid up against the hedge,

                          few pimms later making your way to the hog roast under the gazebo, the jester doing his usual antics trips by mistake and falls into you, you land awkwardly on the lawn...elbows grass stained

                          sticky fingered daddy "no worries son we shall have the tailor apply elbow patches on thy monday of the week commencing the week next"

                          PH UNIVERSE COPYRIGHT.

                          Comment

                          • andrewislasorad
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 841

                            Originally posted by merz
                            its a number of pieces from over a slice of 20-30 years in the 19th century, occasionally reworked and matched together to evoke a very specific kind of nostalgia. the stuff the patterns are culled from is absolutely historical. but, okay.
                            I disagree, for example the pattern and construction on his cropped pants are worth noting here. I have three pairs, in three different materials, each with a uniquely different pattern and fit in terms of volume and feel.



                            I agree with Mike/BSR, his references come from his own personal reflection of the past, he isn't attempting to recreate a specific period or era. Only piece together and blur snapshots of the past, the way he sees it. I don't see the blatant copying.


                            Originally posted by merz
                            harnden is fine. all i ever said was you look silly in it, and that his work has become fetishised here (much like many things before it, some of which i like..) for reasons to do with fashion at times seemingly more than style. it does not require of you to rush to PH's aid as though the man himself was being, spartacus-like, impaled upon the roman lances.
                            I really do believe that the festishising (like most things that are on SZ) is warranted. Whether it be the fit and feel of his blazers, or the unique look, volume and construction of his pants..there's nothing really like it. The fact that it has to be purchased in person (not on the internet) is also testament to its greatness. It appeals to the conservative dressers on here, just as much as the crazies (myself included). Eastern Market more recent tumblr posts really highlight the possibilities with PH. Above all, PH is fun to wear

                            edit - marco-von the fruity-ist of pimms no doubt

                            Comment

                            • surver
                              Senior Member
                              • Oct 2007
                              • 638

                              from
                              "Their Time, Their Place. COOL OLD MEN" Special Edition
                              High Fashion_February 2006, No.307



                              from
                              "BOHEMIAN SPIRITS" Proposal Special Edition 1
                              Men's Non-No G_Special Issue Autumn 2002



                              Comment

                              • holger
                                Senior Member
                                • Mar 2009
                                • 430

                                "Pattern Mill" DVD

                                super8mm, 9mins, 2011 UK, Paul Harnden & Stuart Pitkin

                                Video

                                Originally posted by TheNotoriousT
                                SZ Stock ausm Arsch und entspannen!

                                Comment

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