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Thread: Paul Harnden

  1. #201

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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry View Post
    I had this problem with my raf knit, I love it to bits as I personally think it looks great. However as with many raf knits it is itchy and I didnt wear it once for the whole of the summer because it was too hot without a longsleeve tshirt under it and too itchy without. I'm glad I've kept it because its winter (cold already not actually winter, england sucks) now and I do really love it, however I would never make the mistake of buying something that causes me to be uncomfortable again.

    I always thought Raf Simons quality was on a par with Top Shop.

    Especially his much vaunted tailoring which i thought looked like it was made out of cardboard and then softened up

    That is why I think Rick has been such a big hit.

    He made his name / ushered in / debuted a whole generation of wearable softer fabrics which everyone else inevitably wanted to / had to use and which made everyone else who used them look like band-wagon jumpers and people like PH ( who did not )look like edgy outsiders : )
    Is it Nice in your snowstorm- freezing your brain?
    Do you think that your face looks the same?

  2. #202

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    amongst all this extraneous discussion away from PH, wondering if anyone has any updates/news on PH lately?

  3. #203
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surver View Post
    amongst all this extraneous discussion away from PH, wondering if anyone has any updates/news on PH lately?
    What news? Same fucking jacket, different season. At least the cuts have changed, and now they are more conforming to human anatomy.

    I have to say, though I am not a fan of his work by and large, the jacket Avanster got is absolutely stellar. SBW has the same one, so something must be in the air. I woulnd't mind owning that too...
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  4. #204
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STEALTH View Post
    I always thought Raf Simons quality was on a par with Top Shop.

    Especially his much vaunted tailoring which i thought looked like it was made out of cardboard and then softened up

    That is why I think Rick has been such a big hit.

    He made his name / ushered in / debuted a whole generation of wearable softer fabrics which everyone else inevitably wanted to / had to use and which made everyone else who used them look like band-wagon jumpers and people like PH ( who did not )look like edgy outsiders : )
    Not the early stuff. It was untouchable.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  5. #205

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    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    Avantster, dare i say that if it isnt to be called avant-garde then what would one call it. Period dressing? Definitely not. There is certainly a lot of thought that has been put into his clothes and I think he deserves due credit.

    People certainly didnt have Nylon/poly/silk raincoats back in the day.
    To be honest I'm not sure. PH seems, to me, so far removed from the world of fashion. He seems to be happy living in relative obscurity, just out there, doing his thing. This is of course, speculation on my behalf. Perhaps those who have had the pleasure of meeting him could shed more light on the matter.

    Quote Originally Posted by obsolete View Post
    I'm not necessarily comparing the two jackets, but pointing out consumers romanticize certain designers and their techniques. Maybe they do this to justify the high price tag.
    To paraphrase Fuuma past a certain level of quality (much lower than what we're talking about here) there's not much of an argument for one jacket to another other than aesthetic appreciation and emotional payoff. Once deemed sufficient construction hardly enters the picture other than being it's own visual and emotional reward.

    Quote Originally Posted by deleuze View Post
    Albert's holy grail kaleidoscope jester hat or CCP on Mister Black's fire engine chef shirt.
    I lul-ed.

    Two absolute classics.
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  6. #206

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    Quote Originally Posted by Avantster View Post
    He seems to be happy living in relative obscurity, just out there, doing his thing. This is of course, speculation on my behalf. Perhaps those who have had the pleasure of meeting him could shed more light on the matter.
    This is my idealized vision of an artist, of course taking into account being able to receive sufficient response to sustain the life. Always wished I could be somebody like that. Still do.
    www.matthewhk.net

    let me show you a few thangs

  7. #207

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fade to Black View Post
    This is my idealized vision of an artist, of course taking into account being able to receive sufficient response to sustain the life. Always wished I could be somebody like that. Still do.
    Huge respect to anyone who can do this.

  8. #208

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    I went down to his studio not too long ago before summer,
    its down a tiny tiny lane most people would miss, a few minutes from the beach, behind a pub, next to a Lingerie store.
    His studio has no signs on the door, just an old collection of nick nacks, some old old toys, old war signs etc, boxes pilled up saying AW 05, SS03, dusty and dirty god knows whats in them.
    It seems like a special place, he works for him self not for fashion
    obviously he has to deliver on time to keep the shops happy but he probally only sells to enough shops to cover his bar tabs around brighton. He works when he wants and when he needs to, you wont find him there 9-5 monday to friday.
    I liked the quirkyness the place seem to have; the fact he had a mouse hole cut out in the back of his gate, it was oversized a bit so probably for his dog or a cat he may have.
    If he could sell enough clothes in brighton then he probably would just do that, his work is his work. He doesn't sell it with any manifesto (unlike other people in fashion) so simply if we don't like it, don't feel its worth the money, then don't buy it.
    Wether i like his silhouette or garments, I can respect him, he is doing something so far away to normal fashion, its closer to the shoemakers you could see on the side of the road in India or Malaysia, this is all my personal opinion.
    .

  9. #209
    Senior Member Mail-Moth's Avatar
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    Thanks for that, Snafu. I find this man more and more interesting every time I read about him.
    I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
    I can see a man with a baseball bat.

  10. #210
    Senior Member crouka's Avatar
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    he used to be seen walking around in paris wearing toy dentures.
    his crazy sense of humor might make it look a bit like avant-garde sometimes.
    but avant-garde is something more familiar to promethean or apollonian either of which he keeps at a certain distance.
    also criteria such as spi etc definitely belong to the two, and are not so related to him in the first place. things like labor (alienated one), effort, order, perfection are what he would not boast of (even though he pours some of them into his work). he washes it because he doesn't want it to look like the product by the two above.
    "native american" was the original inspiration to him as a designer. he seems to still let it lie deep at heart although his stuff may appear to be of peasant on the surface.
    as keeping a horse can be more costly than owning a nice car, his work might not be so efficient and rational. for his prices, you could easily find lots of other things that are more excellent by the standard of those two.
    but there is another value maybe called dionysian. something that rationality is poor at explaining that therefore has been repressed. it is more related to transparent or invisible stuff such as the reason to live. so in a way it is "romanticization". but from its viewpoint what rationality brings about is only decolorization, bleaching (actually rationality, if really clear, will have to face lots of issues it cannot answer after its own thorough investigation).
    he seems to want to be closer to the third, and some find it more compatible and feel at ease with it.
    and generally I admit that a garment becomes a bit special garment to my eye when I know "a well it hides".

  11. #211
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Nothing like some Nietzschean philosophy applied to fashion. This is the kind of stuff I like.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  12. #212

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Nothing like some Nietzschean philosophy applied to fashion. This is the kind of stuff I like.
    tied with you for a close second!
    You know, he says, with a resilient smile, it is a hard world for poets.
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  13. #213

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    Great post, crouka. It's interesting to hear a driving inspiration was native american.

    Thanks also to snafu for sharing those insights with us.
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  14. #214

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    I like every harnden pics.

  15. #215
    Senior Member jcotteri's Avatar
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    crouka a beautiful and articulate post.. A pleasure for my brain after a long day of studying.. Thankyou.. Thankyou ever so much.

    cheers snaf..
    WTB: This

  16. #216

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    Quote Originally Posted by snafu View Post
    He doesn't sell it with any manifesto (unlike other people in fashion) so simply if we don't like it, don't feel its worth the money, then don't buy it.
    Reminds me of a section from a favourite quote of mine; the late Harold Pinter talking about Samuel Beckett:

    "The farther he goes the more good it does me. I dont want philosophies, tracts, dogmas, creeds, ways out, truths, answers, nothing from the bargain basement. He is the most courageous, remorseless writer going and the more he grinds my nose in the shit the more I am grateful to him.
    Hes not fucking me about, hes not leading me up any garden path, hes not slipping me a wink, hes not flogging me a remedy or a path or a revelation or a basinful of breadcrumbs, hes not selling me anything I dont want to buy he doesnt give a bollock whether I buy or not he hasnt got his hand over his heart. Well, Ill buy his goods, hook, line and sinker, because he leaves no stone unturned and no maggot lonely. He brings forth a body of beauty.
    His work is beautiful"

  17. #217
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    /\ That's a pretty hardcore statement.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  18. #218

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    /\ You're such an a-hole...haha. Welcome back! :)
    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    fuck you, i don't have an attitude problem.

    Sartorialoft

    "She is very ninja, no?" ~Peter Jevnikar

  19. #219

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    crouka and snaf, thanks for the beautiful posts.

    ndf, you were missed. welcome back.

  20. #220

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    ^he wasn't referring to your post.

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