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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    See what happens, Avantster? You make a nice post, and no one cares. People want arguments. Hegel always wins.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • obsolete
      Junior Member
      • Aug 2008
      • 24

      The "fail" that I own is the first brown jacket pictured in the first post of this thread.

      I'm guessing it didn't sell because it was ugly, not because of it's construction techniques.


      -o

      Comment

      • STEALTH
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2008
        • 250

        Originally posted by obsolete View Post
        My PH jacket is a coarse wool, something I wouldn't dress my worst enemy in.
        This is where my PH opinion begins and ends

        I cannot get my head around the fact that people make and wear clothes in such unpleasant , itchy etc fabrics.

        I will always choose a YY silk / wool gaberdine over a CDG boiled wool anyday. In fact i would rather wear American Apparel than something that made me itch

        I understand it may look good but unless you are going to hang it up and look at it why would you want to suffer wearing it ?
        https://www.facebook.com/Marc.Stealth.Kaos

        Comment

        • Fade to Black
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2008
          • 5340

          Originally posted by STEALTH View Post
          This is where my PH opinion begins and ends

          I cannot get my head around the fact that people make and wear clothes in such unpleasant , itchy etc fabrics.

          I will always choose a YY silk / wool gaberdine over a CDG boiled wool anyday. In fact i would rather wear American Apparel than something that made me itch

          I understand it may look good but unless you are going to hang it up and look at it why would you want to suffer wearing it ?
          this might be stretching this discussion off on another tangent, but I have noticed that this season everything feels so coarse. I don't know if it's just fabric quality getting worse or a twisted take on luxury but from Lanvin to Band of Outsiders all the wools are ones that I wouldn't dress my worst enemy in.

          btw, "unexplored regions of male drag" is the single best phrase I've read to describe Rick
          www.matthewhk.net

          let me show you a few thangs

          Comment

          • huckleberry
            Senior Member
            • Jul 2009
            • 361

            Originally posted by STEALTH View Post
            This is where my PH opinion begins and ends

            I cannot get my head around the fact that people make and wear clothes in such unpleasant , itchy etc fabrics.

            I will always choose a YY silk / wool gaberdine over a CDG boiled wool anyday. In fact i would rather wear American Apparel than something that made me itch

            I understand it may look good but unless you are going to hang it up and look at it why would you want to suffer wearing it ?
            I had this problem with my raf knit, I love it to bits as I personally think it looks great. However as with many raf knits it is itchy and I didnt wear it once for the whole of the summer because it was too hot without a longsleeve tshirt under it and too itchy without. I'm glad I've kept it because its winter (cold already not actually winter, england sucks) now and I do really love it, however I would never make the mistake of buying something that causes me to be uncomfortable again.

            Comment

            • STEALTH
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2008
              • 250

              Originally posted by huckleberry View Post
              I had this problem with my raf knit, I love it to bits as I personally think it looks great. However as with many raf knits it is itchy and I didnt wear it once for the whole of the summer because it was too hot without a longsleeve tshirt under it and too itchy without. I'm glad I've kept it because its winter (cold already not actually winter, england sucks) now and I do really love it, however I would never make the mistake of buying something that causes me to be uncomfortable again.

              I always thought Raf Simons quality was on a par with Top Shop.

              Especially his much vaunted tailoring which i thought looked like it was made out of cardboard and then softened up

              That is why I think Rick has been such a big hit.

              He made his name / ushered in / debuted a whole generation of wearable softer fabrics which everyone else inevitably wanted to / had to use and which made everyone else who used them look like band-wagon jumpers and people like PH ( who did not )look like edgy outsiders : )
              https://www.facebook.com/Marc.Stealth.Kaos

              Comment

              • surver
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2007
                • 638

                amongst all this extraneous discussion away from PH, wondering if anyone has any updates/news on PH lately?

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  Originally posted by surver View Post
                  amongst all this extraneous discussion away from PH, wondering if anyone has any updates/news on PH lately?
                  What news? Same fucking jacket, different season. At least the cuts have changed, and now they are more conforming to human anatomy.

                  I have to say, though I am not a fan of his work by and large, the jacket Avanster got is absolutely stellar. SBW has the same one, so something must be in the air. I woulnd't mind owning that too...
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    Originally posted by STEALTH View Post
                    I always thought Raf Simons quality was on a par with Top Shop.

                    Especially his much vaunted tailoring which i thought looked like it was made out of cardboard and then softened up

                    That is why I think Rick has been such a big hit.

                    He made his name / ushered in / debuted a whole generation of wearable softer fabrics which everyone else inevitably wanted to / had to use and which made everyone else who used them look like band-wagon jumpers and people like PH ( who did not )look like edgy outsiders : )
                    Not the early stuff. It was untouchable.
                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • Avantster
                      ¤¤¤
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 1983

                      Originally posted by C'est Fini View Post
                      Avantster, dare i say that if it isnt to be called avant-garde then what would one call it. Period dressing? Definitely not. There is certainly a lot of thought that has been put into his clothes and I think he deserves due credit.

                      People certainly didnt have Nylon/poly/silk raincoats back in the day.
                      To be honest I'm not sure. PH seems, to me, so far removed from the world of fashion. He seems to be happy living in relative obscurity, just out there, doing his thing. This is of course, speculation on my behalf. Perhaps those who have had the pleasure of meeting him could shed more light on the matter.

                      Originally posted by obsolete View Post
                      I'm not necessarily comparing the two jackets, but pointing out consumers romanticize certain designers and their techniques. Maybe they do this to justify the high price tag.
                      To paraphrase Fuuma past a certain level of quality (much lower than what we're talking about here) there's not much of an argument for one jacket to another other than aesthetic appreciation and emotional payoff. Once deemed sufficient construction hardly enters the picture other than being it's own visual and emotional reward.

                      Originally posted by deleuze View Post
                      Albert's holy grail kaleidoscope jester hat or CCP on Mister Black's fire engine chef shirt.
                      I lul-ed.

                      Two absolute classics.
                      let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

                      Comment

                      • Fade to Black
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2008
                        • 5340

                        Originally posted by Avantster View Post
                        He seems to be happy living in relative obscurity, just out there, doing his thing. This is of course, speculation on my behalf. Perhaps those who have had the pleasure of meeting him could shed more light on the matter.
                        This is my idealized vision of an artist, of course taking into account being able to receive sufficient response to sustain the life. Always wished I could be somebody like that. Still do.
                        www.matthewhk.net

                        let me show you a few thangs

                        Comment

                        • klaxon
                          Member
                          • Dec 2007
                          • 34

                          Originally posted by Fade to Black View Post
                          This is my idealized vision of an artist, of course taking into account being able to receive sufficient response to sustain the life. Always wished I could be somebody like that. Still do.
                          Huge respect to anyone who can do this.

                          Comment

                          • snafu
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2008
                            • 2135

                            I went down to his studio not too long ago before summer,
                            its down a tiny tiny lane most people would miss, a few minutes from the beach, behind a pub, next to a Lingerie store.
                            His studio has no signs on the door, just an old collection of nick nacks, some old old toys, old war signs etc, boxes pilled up saying AW 05, SS03, dusty and dirty god knows whats in them.
                            It seems like a special place, he works for him self not for fashion
                            obviously he has to deliver on time to keep the shops happy but he probally only sells to enough shops to cover his bar tabs around brighton. He works when he wants and when he needs to, you wont find him there 9-5 monday to friday.
                            I liked the quirkyness the place seem to have; the fact he had a mouse hole cut out in the back of his gate, it was oversized a bit so probably for his dog or a cat he may have.
                            If he could sell enough clothes in brighton then he probably would just do that, his work is his work. He doesn't sell it with any manifesto (unlike other people in fashion) so simply if we don't like it, don't feel its worth the money, then don't buy it.
                            Wether i like his silhouette or garments, I can respect him, he is doing something so far away to normal fashion, its closer to the shoemakers you could see on the side of the road in India or Malaysia, this is all my personal opinion.
                            .

                            Comment

                            • Mail-Moth
                              Senior Member
                              • Mar 2009
                              • 1448

                              Thanks for that, Snafu. I find this man more and more interesting every time I read about him.
                              I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
                              I can see a man with a baseball bat.

                              Comment

                              • crouka
                                Senior Member
                                • Jul 2007
                                • 141

                                he used to be seen walking around in paris wearing toy dentures.
                                his crazy sense of humor might make it look a bit like avant-garde sometimes.
                                but avant-garde is something more familiar to promethean or apollonian either of which he keeps at a certain distance.
                                also criteria such as spi etc definitely belong to the two, and are not so related to him in the first place. things like labor (alienated one), effort, order, perfection are what he would not boast of (even though he pours some of them into his work). he washes it because he doesn't want it to look like the product by the two above.
                                "native american" was the original inspiration to him as a designer. he seems to still let it lie deep at heart although his stuff may appear to be of peasant on the surface.
                                as keeping a horse can be more costly than owning a nice car, his work might not be so efficient and rational. for his prices, you could easily find lots of other things that are more excellent by the standard of those two.
                                but there is another value maybe called dionysian. something that rationality is poor at explaining that therefore has been repressed. it is more related to transparent or invisible stuff such as the reason to live. so in a way it is "romanticization". but from its viewpoint what rationality brings about is only decolorization, bleaching (actually rationality, if really clear, will have to face lots of issues it cannot answer after its own thorough investigation).
                                he seems to want to be closer to the third, and some find it more compatible and feel at ease with it.
                                and generally I admit that a garment becomes a bit special garment to my eye when I know "a well it hides".

                                Comment

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