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Thread: Paul Harnden

  1. #301

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    I'm not that extremist, quite the contrary: of course a creator can put his soul or anything in his work, but out of romanticism, I hope my mind and his mind can connect through the work and not only through a plain talk told and retold by the sellers and consumers again and again... BTW if i remember well, in the Wenders movie about Yamamoto, YY says something like 'i hope that my clothes are such that you won't consume them by buying them'. Funny you say we are 'consumers' and we still should not see marketing traps everywhere!

    at the peasant jew! and you know, it's exactly the reason why i never could buy any PH cloth. I hate countryside, I only like the idea of it ("Une ville, une campagne, de loin c’est une ville et une campagne, mais à mesure qu’on s’approche, ce sont des maisons, des arbres, des tuiles, des feuilles, des herbes, des fourmis, des jambes de fourmis, à l’infini. Tout cela s’enveloppe sous le nom de campagne.")


    on a side note, to illustrate my first point, i have an anecdote on a Harnden's black ultra long jacket (the kind that makes Mailmoth look like a dreyerian priest) that i tried one day at l'E. I was admiring the very strange cut, with, as always with PH, a slim torso, and then, from the waist to the bottom of the jacket (which was around my ankles!), a series of random pleats and a bell-ish shape. A real cassock for a country priest, made of a harsh boiled wool, marvelous finish and touch... I started inspecting the interior, prepared for the best of the old cotton lining... and WTF! A zip, a motherfucker industrial, standardized, globalized zip! I wanted my inside pocket to be deep, closed by an old dirty button, but a shiny metal zip suddenly reminded me I was living in the 21st century and Harnden too, alas.
    Last edited by BSR; 06-15-2010 at 02:13 AM.

  2. #302
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    /\ hahaha, that's funny. yeah, there is a jacket at if with (gasp) multiple zippered pockets!

    how is my coat doing? still alive?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  3. #303

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    This whole discussion is really interesting; il admit alot of it does fly through my head, and don't know what points are really being made alot of the time. But this discussion seems to be revolving around the man himself, his attitudes, and the relationship between him and the actually garment you buy from L'E.
    Having recently been more and more interested in his work, seeing it in person, trying more on, and doing a bit of backlogging through the information of what is out there to be found.
    I truly believe he is working in a way far from anything that is out there right now, or his outlook in on his work is approached in a format far from the world in where his garments are sold.

    I get a true sense of nostalgia, like a person going through their head of the childhood memories, glancing over an old family album found at the bottom of box in the attic.

    A good friend of mine who owns pieces of paul and who has a good understanding of construction with garments and shoes. Addressed the point of when looking at Paul's shoes and wearing them they look bizzare it is hard to put down why this is ? They fit wide or look different to what is out there, and he could be wrong but one thing he said was that maybe he makes some of his shoes on symmetrical lasts; this is very old fashioned in terms of shoe making but it certainly fits into the ideas i think Paul pursues. I think with Paul's work is seriously subtle and sometimes almost subconscious, we don't know why it evokes the feelings it does, but i believe he is very strong in terms of authenticity, staying true to his work, if he used a shiny zip i believe there will have been a reason for it; we just haven't figured it out.

    I know this all maybe a far cry of what you guys where trying to address, I agree we cannot buy something because of the man who made it, we need to be buying something because of what it is. But we can't reject paul in this world either, BSR you are right we all know the stories of maurizio and his aston martin, and paul driving around with leather skins tied to the back of his car stoned on a farm. How much of this is marketing, gossip, made up, or true. But we must only question these in relation to the work, we can chose to look at Paul's jacket in what it means to us in terms of traditional wear, humbleness, nostalgia, looking back to a time when we would have had our clothes handed down through family: because these are the feelings or emotions or simply what thoughts come into my head when i look at his clothes. But i agree so strongly with we can and should still look at the garments for what they are individually. Does this jacket work for me? Will i wear it or will it sit in my closet? Do i have a strong enough relationship between this garment and my personality ? Or simply am i buying it because i saw it on someone else and it looked good on them ?
    All these things we should ask, I don't understand when someone suddenly wants to buy a full head to toe look ? I like your idea Faust, that you found one coat that works on you and for you... you respect his work but you could never wear it in your wardrobe before or in your environment, but now this coat is that piece that is correct. But suddenly to be wearing julius and n9 to drastically changing into a full head to toe Harnden look, seems too much like a costume change. But i have to respect this is what some people do with clothes, it is what fashion is, many people change from season to season drastically. But i guess i don't fell comfortable doing this, i feel like its to forceful its too much of a drastic change in reflecting my true self.

    I feel his work is not truly about rejection but in more of a sense of we live in a world where change is always present we change for change sake; when maybe he believes in only changing when needed? I don't know but i am interested.

    Anyway i will post up some more photos from Harnden's work so we can all try and get inside the mind of the man a bit more... as certainly he would be one of the most interesting guys to have a pint with.






    Last edited by snafu; 06-15-2010 at 12:09 PM.
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  4. #304

  5. #305

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    Those are great photos, Richard. I've been a fan of Harnden's work since I first discovered it here, but have never handled it in person. I'm not sure if I'd wear it, but I appreciate the aesthetic that it perpetuates. Many of the photographs in this thread, for example, are quite powerful to me.
    How do you guys like the fit of my new CCP suit?

  6. #306

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    Great Pics Snafu.. never seen those before!!.... next time i'm in Brighton I'll try get some more pics of him in my old local... *i'm not stalking him, honest!*.....
    [IMG]PH[/IMG]

  7. #307

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    silver where are you now?
    I added some more...

    can some one tell me about this method on the bag and wallet:




    i have memories of doing this ink/oil stuff in a tray as a child, i think it was at a birthday party or seeing it somewhere. or ....its not food colouring used on leather is it ?
    Last edited by snafu; 06-15-2010 at 01:01 PM.
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  8. #308

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    Just to make things clear, my 'PS2' above was obviously a joke, i don't plan to buy a full harnden outfit. On the contrary, as i said before, to me the most interesting thing to do with his clothes would be to try and pair them with different stuff, either close in spirit, or completely opposite, and to see how a continuity or a contrast builds out of these attempts.

    Otherwise snafu I agree with most of what you say here, indeed these clothes question the seek of change for its own sake that characterizes modern consumption. In this regard PH is like CCP and maybe the Carpe family (but I don’t know their productions very well), what they are doing is a deepening of an almost close wardrobe, doing and doing the same sort of things again and again. But there is something different with PH, that you have described quite well, he’s turned to the past, and for that reason he’s the opposite of CCP or Altieri or Amadei.

    What I would like to know about Harnden’s designs, for example his usual 5-buttons jackets: are they the replica of traditional jackets that have historically existed (and would characterize a country / a period of time / a social class), or are they differing from the historical references? I think I would feel better if PH’s designs were not a simple revival of the old days, but a free memory of a time that has never existed for real. That would be true melancholy.

    @Faust: no idea about your precious… I’ve not paid a visit to a store recently, too much work, and other things going on.
    Last edited by BSR; 06-15-2010 at 01:12 PM.

  9. #309

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    Im not sure exactly of what period they most come from, iv heard civil war been thrown around alot with Harnden's work, MERZ could be the person to ask really...

    from my view I don't think you can compare Poell with the likes of Alteri and Harnden in terms of vision, Poell's chops and changes its a bit too thematic. You are right they are all working within the confines of their own devloped wardrobe but Maurizio and Paul seem to have a subtle deepness that Poell doesn't have ...
    I also think Alteri never really showed anything of rejection of consumerism, I think maybe his eastern references could have been the biggest sign but really poell is truely the only one who directly points the finger i think?... new discussion
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  10. #310

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    Curious to hear about what you deem as Poell's chop and changes, you can trace back most of his designs to 2004 and sometimes before. Similarly, the techniques he's using for a new collection are mostly evolutions of previous research (like the chainseam being the new invisiseam, the dipping the new paper and so on). I would not attach too much importance to the themes, for me they are more characteristics of the shows/performances/presentations than of actual collections which show progress along the same road.

    I don't know if it's of any use to compare designers, but in my book Poell > Harden without any doubt. for Altieri I don't know, I'm not familiar enough with his work. the meaning of CCP's works is opaque and secretive, Harnden is easier to follow and his range is narrower.

  11. #311

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    Like i've said before in this thread... I attempted to dig a little deeper into the man's mind before, whilst steaming drunk in the pub in the previous pictures.. he was real nice, but he attempted to weird me out... which he did a little bit (i was very drunk).... but according to a friend that worked with him for a while, he loves to do this... especially to the 'fashion' crowd.. so as far i can tell, he is so passionate about leading a certain lifestyle/ethos, that he doesn't like the attention he receives from certain crowds/people that don't either, A. fit in with his ethos, or B. understand his ethos...



    Snafu.... I live in dirty old London now.. miss the sea air!

  12. #312
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    What I want to know is where Harnden comes from. Did he just walk into L'Eclariuer and IF and Lift and say, check out my expensive peasant stuff and they just went for it?

    For historical references, I just watched Days of Heaven which takes place I'd say in the 20s - and the women in the film looked like they were wearing Harnden.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  13. #313

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    What I want to know is where Harnden comes from. Did he just walk into L'Eclariuer and IF and Lift and say, check out my expensive peasant stuff and they just went for it?

    For historical references, I just watched Days of Heaven which takes place I'd say in the 20s - and the women in the film looked like they were wearing Harnden.
    Chaplin looks like he's wearing Harnden.
    Harnden designed for CDG, no?
    Last edited by BSR; 06-15-2010 at 02:34 PM.

  14. #314

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    Quote Originally Posted by BSR View Post
    Chaplin looks like he's wearing Harnden.
    Harnden designed for CGD, no?
    Yep apparently this is true...

    maybe this has something to do with him insisting that Rei do the buy for DSM??!

  15. #315

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    maybe someone of you are interested in this treasure....
    they are about 20 years old running size 40.back in the days when we were carrying paul harnden.






  16. #316
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Those are pretty, the bottom pair.

    He's been around for 20 years?!
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  17. #317

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    even longer faust.....i really like his work.iŽve tried on some of the blazers at LŽEclarieur last time in paris.you really need to feel the clothes.I got told,that we had it from the beginning on here in the store,back in the days.I will try to get more facts.
    definitely wanna see the stuff in october from elena dawson.

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by CENTRALE FRANKFURT View Post
    iŽve tried on some of the blazers at LŽEclarieur last time in paris.you really need to feel the clothes.
    No, he does no need it.

  19. #319
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christian View Post
    No, he does no need it.
    I feel, I buy, and then I'm broke.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  20. #320

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    Quote Originally Posted by CENTRALE FRANKFURT View Post
    definitely wanna see the stuff in october from elena dawson.
    really looking forward to Elena's clothes too. From what I understand Paul has been doing shoes quite a long time, but the clothing is a recent (last 6 years or so) venture, that was started with Elena.

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