Paul Harnden

[DRRRK]

I think his blazers look like some stuff from 100 years ago. Which is not a bad thing, but i would prefer GBS over PH any time, because GBS has a modern twist and recycling fabrics is something i love.
I can see the intention of doing something new in most of the designers discussed here, but not in PH. I could find something similar in second hand shops, probably not the quality or the craftsmanship, which i like, but definitely the look of the clothes. As an architect, i like craftsmanship and nice details, but i would never try to reproduce buildings or designs from some decades ago. If i want something to look like in the past, I'd go for old buildings and not build something that looks like it is from the past. Just my attitude.

[kunk75]

couldn't agree more, i'd buy a modern home or an ancient victorian but not a new construction made to look like an old victorian

[Reveries]

One of the great appeals to me for Harnden is you don't have to be so meticulous when wearing and washing his jackets. You can just throw it in the washing machine along with the rest of your laundry and it's going to come out fine.

[endersgame]

^^ the new wax cotton jacket says "do not wash"

[move_ment]

That should transferred to the HOF thread. If any belong, this does. So good.

agreed - this is epic. I also love how those grey hairs are working in your favor.

[Reveries]

Of course it depends on treatment and composition silk/leathers etc. but a lot of his cotton cotton/wool blend jackets are actually machine washable

Ive been banned already for posting comments in the wrong sections because I cant seem to find the rules anywhere..

Wanna know what I should do to clean my linen blazer..

DRY CLEAN?

Then why would you post this again here? I was talking more about the appeal of PH not the washing per se.

[Faust]

not long ago people were comparing PH to historical customs and chimney cleaners and making jokes about it. And I don't see much change since 2005? when I first tried on his garments at L'E.

I think his work it's really distinctive and it can't be emulated using historical clothing. I always had the same opinion, also that his clothing doesn't work on me at all.

It's like Tezuka's Metropolis based on Fritz Lang's poster. It has connections with the past but it's an interpretation with many innovations to achieve that dreamt image.

I have to disagree. I think the cuts have changed dramatically in the last two years. Again, I am not drinking the kool-aid - most of it still costumey and too literal of a historical interpretation, but the blazers now fit perfectly. I am only partial to the long blazer which has that beautiful Edwardian fit - they actually remind me of Ann's tailoring. I got one, and I doubt I will be getting another PH piece (unless a hopscotch will magically materialize at a good price).

And, well, the womens coats are amazing, but I've always liked them.

[Faust]

I think his blazers look like some stuff from 100 years ago. Which is not a bad thing, but i would prefer GBS over PH any time, because GBS has a modern twist and recycling fabrics is something i love.
I can see the intention of doing something new in most of the designers discussed here, but not in PH. I could find something similar in second hand shops, probably not the quality or the craftsmanship, which i like, but definitely the look of the clothes. As an architect, i like craftsmanship and nice details, but i would never try to reproduce buildings or designs from some decades ago. If i want something to look like in the past, I'd go for old buildings and not build something that looks like it is from the past. Just my attitude.

I see your point and indeed have made the same one in the past.

[surver]

PH knit cardigan shirt

our discussions seem to focus on only PH's jackets but i'd like to ask if anyone has any experience with this knit cardigan shirt? it's an interesting 'design' albeit the silly backpocket but i like it precisely because of it... can't seem to find this for sale anywhere...

what's the sizing like? is it cut loose like his shirts or fitted?







[the fit-pics are from this scammer on superfuture called '14thfan' that i tried to buy the shirt from once but it never arrived and the dude just dropped off the planet; luckily i got my payment reversed by paypal, as did a number of buyers who were scammed by him at the same time. for reference, these are the names he goes by besides 14thfan on superfuture - Peter K; Korapat K'; nungchi@yahoo.com; twobadcat@yahoo.com (his paypal account) - in case anyone runs into him]

[copacetic]

Want to weigh in, but don't know much about PH historically.

Some help before I comment more: has PH been doing that signature ruching in the backs of his blazers from the very beginning?

[eton97]

has PH been doing that signature ruching in the backs of his blazers from the very beginning?

i believe he has - i have a jacket from 2005 with the same ruching, and although I love his work, i have to admit besides a much more tailored fit (as Faust flags earlier), very little has ever changed in the design and cut of his classic and pocket blazers, trousers, and boots/shoes.......

[MikeN]

our discussions seem to focus on only PH's jackets but i'd like to ask if anyone has any experience with this knit cardigan shirt? it's an interesting 'design' albeit the silly backpocket but i like it precisely because of it... can't seem to find this for sale anywhere...

I believe Degli Effeti has one, and it's one sale. It's a large size that fits significantly smaller, but unfortunately that's all I remember.

[Avantster]

our discussions seem to focus on only PH's jackets but i'd like to ask if anyone has any experience with this knit cardigan shirt? it's an interesting 'design' albeit the silly backpocket but i like it precisely because of it... can't seem to find this for sale anywhere...

what's the sizing like? is it cut loose like his shirts or fitted?

I have the non-collared version and it fits slim (S fits 44) - a soft cotton knit with a dry papery cotton placket with lovely fabric colored buttons. One side is also slightly longer than the other. There's an older season one floating around on Y! right now. Here's a pic of mine..

[Avantster]

I think his blazers look like some stuff from 100 years ago. Which is not a bad thing, but i would prefer GBS over PH any time, because GBS has a modern twist and recycling fabrics is something i love.
I can see the intention of doing something new in most of the designers discussed here, but not in PH. I could find something similar in second hand shops, probably not the quality or the craftsmanship, which i like, but definitely the look of the clothes. As an architect, i like craftsmanship and nice details, but i would never try to reproduce buildings or designs from some decades ago. If i want something to look like in the past, I'd go for old buildings and not build something that looks like it is from the past. Just my attitude.

On the surface they may appear to be similar but in terms of ideology they are far apart - to my eye one makes garments/shoes based upon an unrestrained interpretation of a romantic reminiscence of times past (dionysian) while the other is interested in the creation of soft/unstructured tailored garments that adhere to a vision of ultra-quality and a certain moral and ethical viewpoint of the world we live in (apollonian). Note I say this as a wearer of both GBS and Harnden.

[surver]

I have the non-collared version and it fits slim (S fits 44) - a soft cotton knit with a dry papery cotton placket with lovely fabric colored buttons. One side is also slightly longer than the other. There's an older season one floating around on Y! right now. Here's a pic of mine..

what's Y! ? yahoo japan?