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Thread: Paul Harnden

  1. #161
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    /\ lol. speaking from personal experience, buckwheat?
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  2. #162

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    Marketing as the god of the gaps. I can see that actually. We assume, cynically, that because these people make clothes that everything they do (or don't do) is in some way designed still to sell those clothes. Maybe it isn't. Maybe they're just weird, and unflappable about how they want to sell the clothes. This isn't marketing in the sense of seeking to sell more volume. The volume is cut off at source. It is marketing though in the sense of controlling how the things are sold. "If you want to buy from me, you must walk the walk. It's not just a jacket, dumbass, it's a way of life. Please cut off your mobile phones, and while you're at it, buy a gramaphone. Only then can you wear my wool/linen mix peasantwear."

  3. #163

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    Quote Originally Posted by reborn View Post
    Maxfields
    Harvey's Berlin

  4. #164

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    Marketing points taken, but maybe we are reading too much into this. Maybe he just likes designing clothes and dislikes most of the retailers (at least online) or doesn't really need the extra money.

  5. #165

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    This is almost certainly right, but reading too much into things is what we do 'round here.

  6. #166
    Senior Member kbi's Avatar
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    Isn't trying not to be marketed still a marketing-strategy? When it comes to it he still wants his clothes to sell. I don't think he gives a fuck about whether or not he comes out on top.

  7. #167

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    /\ lol. speaking from personal experience, buckwheat?
    All ex-wives go to classifieds

  8. #168
    Senior Member kbi's Avatar
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    I must admit that I'm not familiar with Paul Harnden's work at all but from what I've seen so far I get the impression that he has a very strong historical and sociological interest in clothing as many of us have in connection with clothes (e.g. lower class clothing thread). In comparison to poell I find poell's work a lot more difficult to cut down (to the core of interest). His interest is obviously multilayered/ influences far from fashion brought in and strongly disguised through fashion.

    To compare the two is really difficult cause imo Poell is the master when it comes to being unique, authentic and still remaining obscure. But is obscurity the goal or just a side-effect? There are also two sides to it.. a) the presentation of your clothes and b) the presentation of your brand.

  9. #169
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Don't think anyone was comparing their clothes per se? Just the way they operate.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  10. #170
    Senior Member kbi's Avatar
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    ..all the more reason to do so? Since the way they operate must represent their clothes I thought one could debate on whether or not the clothes influence how they're operating is perceived

  11. #171
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I don't think so at all. Harnden seems like a much easier guy to figure out - he has a schtik, which is basically sartorial atavism. Poell doesn't have a schtik as far as I can see. I can see Poell scrapping the entire thing tomorrow and doing something else entirely - can't say the same thing about Harnden.

    The only thing unites their clothing is that they are both artisans.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  12. #172

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    Harnden silk jacket and shirt

    from the folks at some/things magazine..
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  13. #173

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    saw that website the other day, quite excited about the magazine! great photos!

  14. #174

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    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    What I did say is that they are both forward yet timeless in their own right.
    Continuing this here..
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  15. #175

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    what i mean Avantster, is that the silhoutte,aesthetic is forward in that antiquarian, future-primitive avant-garde fashion that many of us here adore.

    The clothes are most definitely modern, the construction is not simple. the fact that he shrinks every jacket down to its respective size in proportion is quite a feat. There is a beautiful multi-layered mens silk jacket at leclaireur that one MUST have a look at- just amazing!
    I mean the man isnt just some dickensian costumier.

  16. #176
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    what i mean Avantster, is that the silhoutte,aesthetic is forward in that antiquarian, future-primitive avant-garde fashion that many of us here adore.

    The clothes are most definitely modern, the construction is not simple. the fact that he shrinks every jacket down to its respective size in proportion is quite a feat. There is a beautiful multi-layered mens silk jacket at leclaireur that one MUST have a look at- just amazing!
    I mean the man isnt just some dickensian costumier.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  17. #177

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    Quote Originally Posted by C'est Fini View Post
    what i mean Avantster, is that the silhoutte,aesthetic is forward in that antiquarian, future-primitive avant-garde fashion that many of us here adore.

    The clothes are most definitely modern, the construction is not simple. the fact that he shrinks every jacket down to its respective size in proportion is quite a feat. There is a beautiful multi-layered mens silk jacket at leclaireur that one MUST have a look at- just amazing!
    I mean the man isnt just some dickensian costumier.
    Thanks for the response. I'm a big supporter of Harnden but I wouldn't call it avant-garde. There is a certain sense of nostalgia in his aesthetic from it's silhouette (shrunken tops, wide pants and skirts), feel, fabrics and colours. He is breathing new life into memories past.
    Someone wearing a complete outfit by him would probably look at home in a Julien Dupré painting. I don't think that's a bad thing, either.



    I even have a beautiful silk scarf of his that has a print of British Grasses from a book by William Curtis the botanist (printed in 1804).

    Yes the construction techniques are not simple but if anything, once again they are a reminder of times past when all clothes were made by hand. In a way he is just out there doing his thing, keeping the flame alive for the fewer and fewer artisans left in this world.

    I've also mentioned it before, the multi layered silk jacket you speak of is certainly something else in it's puffy fragility, inevitably to tear and ladder with wear.. something to wear every day.
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  18. #178
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    /\ Thank you for bringing things into perspective here.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  19. #179

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    considering the old work techniques Harnden is so praised for I was wondering if people who have been around hip product for a while feel about it's consistency over time. I handled some of the newer shoes and was not at all impressed by the workmanship or quality of materials. Sole leather was the cheap kind usually only used in women's shoes and the fit had issues too. The heel area was far too boxy leaving me wondering how they were to stay on your feet.

    It's been suggested to me that the emphasis has moved to the clothes and the shoes are now secondary. Just wondered what others thought?

  20. #180

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    so i guess only Cdiem can be called avantgarde.

    ok..

    Some of the techniques used in pauls clothes are not old world by any means, i guess to the formally trained person things might seem different. My perspective is from a desginers end.

    Avantster, dare i say that if it isnt to be called avant-garde then what would one call it. Period dressing? Definitely not. There is certainly a lot of thought that has been put into his clothes and I think he deserves due credit.

    People certainly didnt have Nylon/poly/silk raincoats back in the day.


    Asho, yes the focus seems to have shifted more towards the clothes, the total look one could say, rather than just the shoes.
    Why do you say the soles are meant for womenswear? is it because they are thin?- I think its a design decision more than anything.

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