Careers in Fashion

[xcoldricex]

Re: Careers in Fashion



but, i'd think that some of these designers explicitly would not want online store distribution though? i guess you'd have to speak with them, but the only site i can think of that shows (not sure if they sell off the site) designers like m. altieri and poell is barneys.co.jp, but i'm not sure. while i would love to have easy online access to many designers that are harder to get a hold of (well i guess 95% of my exposure to these labels is through online sources) - its really hard to compete with the feeling of a brick & motor store that adds to the clothing (i.e. lift/lift etage). i think a lot of time/thought/money should be put into the presentation of the clothes if you're doing an online shop (example of what not to do: yoox, luisavisroma).

raijin was talking about doing this a year ago, i'm not sure what happened to that- or what he's up to nowadays.

[sbw4224]

Re: Careers in Fashion

That's my biggest concern, coldrice. A lot of labels probably do
not want online distribution. However, if the clothes were all
presented in an individual way suited towards the label's aesthetic, I
feel an online store would work. I'm going to be working on this
idea for the next few months.

[Faust]

Re: Careers in Fashion

Polyanna sells CDiem and Paul Harnden online. Of course, it's a well-established, reputable store, but still. The only problem I ever heard with online commerce, is Balenciaga telling LVR and Aloha Rag to pull down their bags, but you could still phone order. The whole B&M thing is nice, but look at the success for online retailing. I thought it'd never took off for the exact same reason you stated, and boy, was I wrong! I think a lot of people buy stuff online that they have seen in stores, but didn't see their size, or were undecided at first and missed their chance, etc.

[djrajio]

Re: Careers in Fashion



Its Rajiv Derrick.[:D] But yeah, I wanted to develop an online store here in Japan that could sell high-end Japanese labels internationally but I kept running into too many hurdles.

The single biggest reason many Japanese labels aren't being sold abroad is because the designers dont want to sell them abroad. It removes some credibility/mytisque of the brand and cheapens the image. I think this largely has to do with the way the clothes are presented by distributors and its important for distributors to get the image/presentation right. Many labels didn't want to gamble with that because the competition is so fierce/fickle in the domestic market.

Another problem is actually I suspect a cultural/racial one, but while Japanese don't explicitly admit it, from my perspective they have a slight surperiority complex coupled with other Asian races. It is known fact that Taiwanese, Chinese, Hong Kong, east asians look to Japan as a source of inspiration and a lot of Japanese labels are coveted by these countries. However, most Japanese labels don't want to be associated with this image because it also cheapens there image as a cultural/fashion force in line with Milan, Italy, New York, etc. Basically, Japanese labels want to cater and be associated with the west (i.e. N(N) and Undercover now show their collections in Paris) but not neighboring asian countries. I had a long discussion about this with a Vogue writer here in Tokyo and he basically told me that if I started an online store, the majority of my customers would come from Hong Kong, east asia and would basically cheapen the image of the labels and the store. Weather this is true or not I can't make an assessment right now.

Another problem was the prices. Most items that are "Made in Japan" were made from imported materials, developed under Japanese wages, and marked up to fit Japanese buying perceptions. It's a known fact that the majority of Japanese equate high price with high quality which from a Western sense we all know is not always entirely true. But this price point scheme basically makes even mundane items like simple cotton t-shirts upwards of 60+ dollars. Factor in the exhorbitant shipping costs and at the time I was trying to establish the online store I wanted to keep my money in USD since its the strongest currency, the prices became too high for western tastes and I was going to make little profit.

I think the only way such a international store could be successful is if the store carries very stylized labels with key collection items (so for the westerner, these items can command a high price because the look can't be purchased anywhere else), a huge stock of basics and standard jeans/accessories at much lower prices but with high profit margins. I've also wrestled with doing consignment and taking a percentage of the sale as commission as a possible business alternative. I'm still working on the store, but recently I've been thinking of pursuing trading/hedge fund buy-side investing for the longterm so I've gotten sidetracked and been studying more finance.

[xcoldricex]

Re: Careers in Fashion



haha raijin is another guy, not you rajiv.

i would have to agree with that vogue writer though. hong kong and taiwan are all over japanese labels- and well i'm sure you've seen a million cantonese people walking around shibuya with bags full of clothing. the hong kong market is basically 98% resale shops. Those people you see in shibuya probably run a store in Hong Kong- where they flip the goods they buy for 2-3x the price. However at the same time, you are seeing Japanese brands moving to the other Asian countries- take for example Undercover. They have stores in both HK and Taipei now- has this affected their imagine in Japan? Also, while I was in HK, some prominent streetwear designer from Japan (TK was his name i believe?), part of Silly Thing (I'm still unclear about this label- if it's a HK label, or a Japanese label that opened a separate HK branch) was around to do business. So, I think some of the companies are making moves...

[fadetogrey]

I know this is quite an old thread, but I wanted to ask if anyone works in a museum as a curator or another hands-on job? I am considering a career change and want to gain some insight. I know this isn't a "fashion job" per-say (considering the opposite- getting OUT of fashion), but I didn't know where else to put it!

[laughed]

Museums are always hiring interns, why not intern and step right in?
This is an old thread but I will echo what Faust said - the fashion industry (for the most part) is about being able to deal with the queens, the gossip, and certain attitudes and be one of those tudes all the time. I think as in all things, what one may want now can certainly change after experience. I'm a fashion school grad and worked in the industry long enough to know that I don't care for it as much as i do other things that's for sure. Just some things in it that I don't care for but more importantly I care for other things much more. If I am in need of a job (as in if i find myself unemployed)I know that I can probably grab one but I would be just as happy doing anything else really - where 10 years ago I would kill just to have an internship....Life has a lot of change and growth and that's a good thing. At least for me, I don't like to consider myself one thing or do just one thing.

[Faust]

FTG, what qualifications do you have to be a museum curator? It's not a job you just get - qualifications are extreme. You definitely must have a college degree, probably a Masters - you need to know art history, costume history, fashion history, the history of cultural ideas. You have to be well connected in order to get exhibitions through, raise funds, etc. It's a very political job.

[fadetogrey]

FTG, what qualifications do you have to be a museum curator? It's not a job you just get - qualifications are extreme. You definitely must have a college degree, probably a Masters - you need to know art history, costume history, fashion history, the history of cultural ideas. You have to be well connected in order to get exhibitions through, raise funds, etc. It's a very political job.

I have no qualifications yet, (other than a degree in fashion design which does not qualify me whatsoever) so I want to talk to some people in the industry to see what the final job is like before I take the plunge and go back to school, because I know I will have to be in school for a while (degree+masters, etc) To be honest I am feeling a bit lost at the moment so I want to explore some different avenues without much risk (talking to people, volunteering, etc.)

[Faust]

I think in theory it's a wonderful job, but just think of how many museums there are in the world and how many people compete for them. You are going to really have to work hard, but you will also need to know people, and know people who know people. Also, the days of museums as pinnacles of culture are over - they are now trying to peddle to the masses and have the "market share" mentality just like everyone else, so you might end up losing some illusions. Just my opinion, of course.

[fadetogrey]

Thanks for your insight faust, anyone else can chime in as well! That is the kind of information I am looking for- the reality of the profession from all angles.

[endersgame]

fadetogrey, you might be interested in this article..

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/18/arts/artsspecial/18NEXTGEN.html?ref=artsspecial

it gives you a background on a lot of young curators today and their qualifications. not everyone has a masters/phd..

i work with curators often and i can tell you it's a writing job. you basically need to write like a scholar. critiques, introductions and essays for catalogs and monographs. you also do a lot of endless research. putting on a show is only part of the job.

you also need to work with the artist or the proprietors of the work. sometimes you get caught between the interests of the museum and the artist you want to represent. it's a very personal affair and you need to mediate both sides.

i work with dealers too and you might also look into working at a gallery. there is of course curating involved but the money is better. sometimes...

[endersgame]

i think the level of politics is not just between museums and galleries. it depends on the artist/work involved. the higher the profile, the more politics it will bring.

i also disagree about not being able to work if you don't know people in high places. like any job, there's always an advantage to know someone on the inside. but there are no guarantees if your dad plays golf with leonard lauder. everyone with the right academic background can intern and work their way up to a curatorial position or higher. it's just highly competitive..

[fadetogrey]

Thanks endersgame and mona. I actually realized I was inaccurate with my inquiry- I meant to ask about the restoration side of working at a museum (I am interested in ancient cultures and artifacts) or gallery- Sorry I had just woken up!

[endersgame]

that's a highly specialized field i know nothing about. restorers in general are rare and few.

the getty in los angeles is supposed to have the best art restoration facilities in the world but in terms of a career in restoring ancient artifacts, perhaps your looking at a career in archaeology?

here's a link to the getty conservation edu site. i had a chance to do a quick visit of their facilities and it is truly impressive. this place is the most well funded museum/conservation facility i have ever seen..

http://www.getty.edu/conservation/education/current.html