Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

[DHC]

/\ me too Cas. The "Memories" collection is almost done, but as NDF said, he's got something to sort out. A pretty big project on his hands atm, which can cause a tremendous delay. We just have to wait and see how he juggles everything.

[jevna]

I've been at Cheghini in Vienna recently and I saw they markdowned 50% some Avantindietro boots. I don't remember the sizes anymore, but I am sure there was a 40 among bigger sizes. They put on sale also a pair of canvas (linen?) over leather boots... I think this could be a good chance for everyone interested in buying a pair for a good price!

[soultek]

The lovely lady at Lift sent me this pic a while ago.

I have been slowly warming up to these shoes/boots since I first saw them. I believe them to be a very strong design. A departure from Carpe's design language was necessary for AV. Although we all lament the loss of Carpe, we've got to remember that this man is an innovator so I'd rather he come out with something 'off' than something safe.

As for the shoe itself, the part that bothers me is the seam at the vamp/quarter area. The line goes straight down to the sole and I think it looks too unfinished.

However, the construction is very interesting, leather quality is very good, and I find the heel to be the most unique part of the shoe (low and shrunken).

I do agree with Casius that the shoe version looks more apt for this design.

[jevna]

Jevna- Any chance you remember the size on the linen over leather boots?

Unfortunately I don't remember the exact size... could be a 40! I suggest calling Chegini asap... maybe they are still waiting on the shelf
Chegini has i think 4 stores in the same area. The one with Avantindietro was the one on the corner of Plankengasse 4 / Seilergasse.

[jevna]

I think the phone number should still be this: +43 1 5122231

[asho]

I have a question I have been meaning to ask about the linen over leather boots... are they constructed with a leather lining, a leather upper and then linen on top, or are they only leather lining with a linen upper?

[Casius]

It's a thin layer of linen over leather. So picture any leather shoe with a layer of linen over it.

I've designed shoes that use a similar material but only with standard canvas. The canvas was adhered together to a suede.

[asho]

It's a thin layer of linen over leather. So picture any leather shoe with a layer of linen over it.

I've designed shoes that use a similar material but only with standard canvas. The canvas was adhered together to a suede.

Have you seen any of your designs through into a physical form... i'd love to see them if you have... i've been making shoes myself for around a year... i've experimented with canvas too but i think the non uniform colour of the linen is what sets it apart...

also why did you bother to bound the canvas to the suede? from experience the glue shows through and its not really necessary

[Casius]

I have plenty of things, although it's not very 'SZ' (I design for the skate industry).

The material that I've used was actually developed by an outside vendor and you cannot see any glue through the canvas. It's been sandwiched together and whatever adhesive that is used, it isn't like normal glue (I'll find out more on how it's bonded tomorrow). Another cool thing was the suede backing is actually perforated for better breathability.

[asho]

I have plenty of things, although it's not very 'SZ' (I design for the skate industry).

The material that I've used was actually developed by an outside vendor and you cannot see any glue through the canvas. It's been sandwiched together and whatever adhesive that is used, it isn't like normal glue (I'll find out more on how it's bonded tomorrow). Another cool thing was the suede backing is actually perforated for better breathability.

i have actually tried canvas over perforated leather, and the result is nice, you can rub wax onto the canvas and bring the pattern through...
on a tangental note I really hope that someone with ro sneakers takes them for a skate when they loose their appeal, or are at the end of their life.

[kompressorkev]

I think we might get to see a little bit of Avantindietro in a couple days:

Antonio Salieri is curating a display of works by 7 designers, one of which is Maurizio Altieri's Avantindietro. "UN GUARDAROBA PER UOMO ESTATE 2009" on the 21st. Other designers include Kostas Murkadis, Comme Des Garcons, FQR, etc.

[AKA*NYC]

does anyone here know what a carpe diem s23 boot looks like?

[deleuze]

does anyone here know what a carpe diem s23 boot looks like?

Most likely it is a 5 eyelet work boot. Here are a few S23s:








I have also come accross the odd back zip boot labelled S23

[Chinorlz]

bringing this back to the top with some shots of two Sartoria pieces that showed up randomly on Yoox. The jacket went for $690.

[Chinorlz]

well, I'll admit they're not the best Sartoria examples out there but interesting to see at the very least. It is odd, but that vintage tapestry undercollar was used by Maurizio on many many Sartoria jackets for some reason. Never really knew why.