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Thread: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

  1. #961

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    a bit of this guy mixed in


  2. #962

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    ...?
    Last edited by thedreambelow; 10-16-2012 at 11:05 AM.

  3. #963
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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  4. #964

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    Why one of the most powerful artist of the times is making shoes is beyond me.

  5. #965
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Why one engages in hyperbole is beyond me.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  6. #966

  7. #967

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    There is something both zen and surreal about the above exchange. Like two masters dueling each other in their minds and not making a move.

    Is there a winner? Is there a loser? Or are those binary classifications too limited to express what transpired here...

  8. #968
    Senior Member crouka's Avatar
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    maybe that stockist had been too busy and had seen too many things to remember a chronology.

    PH is a shoemaker. though he had sold bags and print t's before he started the clothing line, adopting some directional opinions of someone else.

    it's true that altieri wanted to try on a PH jacket a retail emperor happened to be wearing, and went home in it. but that was years after the advent of CD washed leather shirt.

  9. #969
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    Quote Originally Posted by crouka View Post
    maybe that stockist had been too busy and had seen too many things to remember a chronology.

    PH is a shoemaker. though he had sold bags and print t's before he started the clothing line, adopting some directional opinions of Elena Dawson.

    it's true that altieri wanted to try on a PH jacket a retail emperor happened to be wearing, and went home in it. but that was years after the advent of CD washed leather shirt.
    Fixed
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  10. #970

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    ^^^ nice
    .

  11. #971
    Senior Member crouka's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Fixed
    could be right in a way, but I wouldn't say it that way as long as she was working under the name of PH.
    I meant his business partner (and yet working independently of PH) he had known before he got to know her.

    to be fair, in the early 00's, he made it public that she was in charge of the clothing line.

    anyway it was great footwear and a bit of bags and t's that he was making when altieri was calling the leather shirts maximum expression of carpe diem.

  12. #972
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Oh, I wasn't trying to belittle Mr. Harnden's achievements. The man has created a singular world and that's good enough for me.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  13. #973

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    Wouldn't you say memoria feels more like old-world gentleman's shoes more than anything else? I've only handled a few pieces but the leather was very good, not distressed. The construction was incredible (I don't know what welt he used exactly, norwegian or norvegese or whatever, but I know it when I see it). As for the shape, it was definitely a bit strange at first sight, less "modern" and streamlined in a sense.

    To me it seems the man is trying to bridge the gap between traditional italian shoemaking and carpe diem.

  14. #974
    Senior Member crouka's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    Oh, I wasn't trying to belittle Mr. Harnden's achievements. The man has created a singular world and that's good enough for me.
    my post was just a supplement to what I had written previously, since it was "fixed".



    arby it seemed to me altieri is a wanderer who is trying to see traditions through concerns of our time and describe the future with the traditional eyes.

  15. #975

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    Quote Originally Posted by arby2001 View Post
    Wouldn't you say memoria feels more like old-world gentleman's shoes more than anything else? I've only handled a few pieces but the leather was very good, not distressed. The construction was incredible (I don't know what welt he used exactly, norwegian or norvegese or whatever, but I know it when I see it). As for the shape, it was definitely a bit strange at first sight, less "modern" and streamlined in a sense.

    To me it seems the man is trying to bridge the gap between traditional italian shoemaking and carpe diem.
    I would say more traditional in terms of shape, welt and the leather/finish (no distressing). But then there are small things that make them unusual, like using stamped areas of the leather, the rough laces that form a circle (there are no ends), and the soles which are made of very thick and grainy leather (elephant etc?)

    I'm not sure what the influence with concept was, but I think the end result is quite beautiful despite being quite different than what we are used to seeing with the recent works. Then again, the Avantindietro projects were the ones that took a step towards something more out of the ordinary; Carpe Diem footwear was often if not always based on more classic shapes
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

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  16. #976

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    I would hardly call them less modern or streamlined.
    Just look at the pairs in the last 3 photos :

    http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2012/10/m...rizio-altieri/

    Its only the L last which i guess you may label bulky, but that is due to the welt stitching that accentuates the shape. The M & S lasts are regular and then sleek. Just because the object is bulky doesn't mean it cant be modern look at Ricks shoe shape, sure his materials and construction are totally different. But people need to get over this one shape and remember there are 3, even avantindietro has more roundness to the toe than the S last.

    Arto the soles used are buffalo, I agree the end result is beautiful and even more so in person.
    .

  17. #977

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    well, less modern if you compare to Avantindietro, I'd say. But I think we are talking about the overall look and feel rather than just the last, which on some models is actually quite streamlined like you said, so perhaps its the smooth cordovan that gives this feel.
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

    STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

  18. #978

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    Last edited by surver; 10-28-2012 at 02:33 AM.

  19. #979

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    just found some pic of Maurizio Altieri setting up the m_moria exhibit


  20. #980

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    ... saw them in Tokyo! Very pleased with me ...

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