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Thread: Carpe Diem, Lmaltieri, Linea, etc.

  1. #1041

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    how many and what are the years that CD was around?

  2. #1042

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    wow great video thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbreed View Post
    CCP is heroin. no, wait CCP is crack because it takes all your money in about 10 minutes...

  3. #1043

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    New m_moria exhibit in japan.

    https://www.facebook.com/events/673611246078536/

    Too bad I missed the facebook invite.

  4. #1044

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    Hah, the photo on the event page is mine
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

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  5. #1045

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    Visited the M_moriabc exhibition last week, quite impressed with the work. I first saw the shoes in the CdG shop a couple years ago and didn't give them much thought - they were sitting on a rack under completely unrelated clothes and I wasn't even sure they were for sale until I flipped them over (and the price subsequently caused my eyes to shoot out the back of my head.)

    The line has come quite a long ways in the last couple years and the samples on display at the exhibition were nothing short of stunning. Just to re-cap what may have already been posted, the collection will be available entirely made-to-order, completely customizable - no stores (at least in Japan) will carry the line.

    All the shoes are completely handmade with no metal parts. Nails are made from wood and there's no zipper models. There's three lasts (A, B, and C) with some variation for lifted toes. The A last is closest to the traditional Carpe shape, with a bulbous toebox, the C last is quite a futuristic looking, sleeker shape that would pair well with a suit, and the B last is somewhere in between. The A and C lasts were the standouts for me, depending on what you're after. Different welt options are available, including a Norwegian/storm welt, which fits the aesthetic very well.

    On top of the three lasts, there are nine different styles (for a total of 27 different combinations), including derbies, ankle boots, chelsea boots, sneakers, and some other interesting designs including a diagonal hidden lace derby (similar to an MA+ design) where the laces thread through the foot opening and tie in the back. Some designs, like the aforementioned hidden lace model, lean a bit more feminine, but all can be done in any sizing.

    The leather is all cordovan - reverse or smooth side, sourced from Horween. They're fully lined in calf, and I believe the sole is buffalo or bison, though I may be mistaken on that. Some of the reverse models have the Horween stamp showing. There's quite a few color choices, with the more remarkable ones being a lovely maroon and a deep eggplant purple. Even the laces are customizable, with hemp (a bit unwieldy to tie), woven cotton, and waxed cotton options available. The laces aren't cut - they're a single "infinity" lace and can be cut after purchase or just wrapped around in a creative way to preserve the effect.

    At the actual exhibition, the presentation of the shoes was fantastic, with a fair number of styles in each last shown in a darkened room and a flashlight to inspect them. The construction and craftsman ship is absolutely superb - I don't have much experience with dress shoes, but they "felt" much more akin to a handmade shoe like John Lobb than the brands typically discussed here where the focus is more on leather quality and treatment than on design and construction. The smooth and simple cordovan really lets the other aspects of the shoes shine through. They all felt surprisingly light, yet very, very "solid." As an aside, I was wearing a pair of big white A1923 boots and they just felt downright unwieldy and a bit pretentious after handling the M_moriabc items.

    The fit on all models I tried on (derbies and ankle boots on the A and C lasts) was just about perfect. I've never had a shoe, let alone one made from cordovan, feel so good right out of the box. The C last in particular adhered very well to the contours of my foot. I have a high instep (a problem with some models of Carpe boots), but these fit fine. There's padding and shaping in the insole negating the need for a separate supportive insole. The fit my was biggest surprise - I had no clue they were going to feel so good on my feet, especially given my past experiences with cordovan.

    All-in-all, just thoroughly impressed with what I saw and tried. It's a bit hard to look at other footwear at the moment. Excuse the hyperbole, but I thought Carpe Diem had perfected the shape and design of a men's boot, but somehow M_moriabc has one-upped its predecessors and made a more perfect boot. As an aside, Mr. Altieri himself was a very down-to-earth and pleasant person and also very proud and passionate regarding his work - a very positive experience, as the personality of the designer does ultimately affect my impression of the brand. Jun Hashimoto is also an amazing person who took quite a bit of time to explain the work and help me try on different models. I also won't feel so bad about wearing my Jun Hashimoto Carpe Diem "knockoffs" knowing they're on good terms

    I promised not to upload my own pics to the internet, but there's a some floating around instagram, including via the following store:
    https://instagram.com/quattro_oda/
    Last edited by nicelynice; 04-27-2015 at 08:59 PM.

  6. #1046

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    ^ best post in this thread in a very very long time! Thank you for the lovely description and rundown!

    If not sold in any stores, how does one actually place an order? Via WJK?
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  7. #1047

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    Happy to get some discussion going :) From my understanding, this exhibition served as a "soft launch" for the brand - orders were taken directly or via Mr. Hashimoto. They were still in the process of rushing to complete some promotional material with options and contact information when I visited. I believe (and again, could be mistaken) that there will be a worldwide launch this fall, though I'm not sure how orders will be handled

  8. #1048

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    Quote Originally Posted by nicelynice View Post
    Happy to get some discussion going :) From my understanding, this exhibition served as a "soft launch" for the brand - orders were taken directly or via Mr. Hashimoto. They were still in the process of rushing to complete some promotional material with options and contact information when I visited. I believe (and again, could be mistaken) that there will be a worldwide launch this fall, though I'm not sure how orders will be handled
    Very cool. Harkens back a bit to the X12 days and the made-to-measure service done in Paris via Anatomica and Sartoria along with visits to Japan where these were also done as an in-store service.

    The international launch will definitely be quite interesting if the footwear is not going to be available off-the-rack since footwear measurements, materials choices and construction options are best arrived upon via a dialogue with the designer IMO.

    Not to say that it cannot be done.

    I am regrettably priced out of adding any of the line to my own closet, but really love that Altieri is focusing his energy and design ideas on purely footwear and the design/construction therein. By choosing Horween shell cordovan as his leather, he's essentially going with the absolute best of the best and not playing the "let me make the same shoe in a myriad of colors/leathers" game. The focus is then on the design, the last and construction rather than something more in-your-face obvious like reverse leather vs. tattered deerskin etc. He's already done that and has moved on.
    Last edited by Chinorlz; 04-28-2015 at 08:39 AM.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  9. #1049

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    Quote Originally Posted by nicelynice View Post
    The leather is all cordovan - reverse or smooth side, sourced from Horween. ....There's quite a few color choices, with the more remarkable ones being a lovely maroon and a deep eggplant purple.
    Cut for relevance. Is this Horween's shell cordovan or just normal horse leather with some being in the number 8 color?
    Last edited by Lohikaarme; 04-27-2015 at 11:42 PM. Reason: spelling matters, kids

  10. #1050

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lohikaarme View Post
    Cut for relevance. Is this Horween's sell cordovan or just normal horse leather with some being in the number 8 color?
    All Horween shell cordovan.

  11. #1051

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    I agree with the comparison made with john lobb. I had a chance to see the shoes at degli effetti in rome recently (prices, if i remember correctly, were way beyond 2k euros). my first impression is that they looked almost too perfect - almost too immaculate for the artisanal brands...

    thanks for the very enlightening write-up!

  12. #1052
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    The C last is basically the Avantindientro last, no? Looks pretty much the same. The A last boots are really beautiful. I also like the idea of clean shoes these days - not spiffy, just clean. Maybe ironically, I am beginning to find the pre-distressed stuff a bit pretentious.

    Still, A, I'm not nearly as enamored. Only shoes? Three lasts, two of them already been done pretty much, irrelevant details like the laces. Big deal. Give me something I can chew on. I think we might be in danger of not seeing the forest for the trees. I am more interested in aesthetic ideas in design. I cannot get that from men's shoes, which might be the most limited thing to begin with. This is not even near the glory days of CDiem.

    And not with these stupid prices. Anyone willing to pay $3.5-4k for a pair of shoes should begin considering moral implications of his spending habits. We've already passed most reasonable limitations, but this is a whole new level of WTF.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  13. #1053

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    ^ thats a fair concern. I think I'm just happy to see ANYTHING beyond a hint of some new work from Altieri. You're right, his focus has been footwear for quite some time now with AV_Field being a big part of Avantindietro and of course the standard AV footwear evolving into M_moria.

    The pricing is stratospheric for sure. I've pretty much separated myself from the pricing at least in some of these situations because it's almost irrelevant due to at least my personal ability (or desire) to spend that kind of money on a garment. A little bit liberating since I can then just focus on the designs, materials and execution without even thinking about "how do I get this in my closet?"

    Would love to see what he's been working on in terms of clothing, both from a design standpoint and a materials research one. With his close connections to JanJan and involvement w/some Chinese based designers, we're seeing a bit of his aesthetic and influence there, but I'm still interested in the undiluted vision and execution :)
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  14. #1054

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chinorlz View Post
    ^ thats a fair concern. I think I'm just happy to see ANYTHING beyond a hint of some new work from Altieri. You're right, his focus has been footwear for quite some time now with AV_Field being a big part of Avantindietro and of course the standard AV footwear evolving into M_moria.

    The pricing is stratospheric for sure. I've pretty much separated myself from the pricing at least in some of these situations because it's almost irrelevant due to at least my personal ability (or desire) to spend that kind of money on a garment. A little bit liberating since I can then just focus on the designs, materials and execution without even thinking about "how do I get this in my closet?"

    Would love to see what he's been working on in terms of clothing, both from a design standpoint and a materials research one. With his close connections to JanJan and involvement w/some Chinese based designers, we're seeing a bit of his aesthetic and influence there, but I'm still interested in the undiluted vision and execution :)
    Mind noting said Chinese designers? China seems quite underrepresented in the fashion world (I largely blame the whole 'Made in China' stigma).

  15. #1055

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    I tried digging some stuff up, but can't find any discussion about the topic now.
    Last edited by Chinorlz; 04-28-2015 at 01:03 PM.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  16. #1056

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    some high quality m_moriabc images on Le Paradox.

  17. #1057

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    Quote Originally Posted by dji View Post
    some high quality m_moriabc images on Le Paradox.
    Goddamn stunning.. I'm really in love with the ankle high boots (that look to be one piece? Correct me if I'm wrong)
    Now, as for the matter of being able to afford it? Sigh.. one can dream right?
    "The heart sings while the wallet weeps. I'd say that's a pretty fair trade." -interest1

  18. #1058

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    master in murom ru 2001
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbreed View Post
    CCP is heroin. no, wait CCP is crack because it takes all your money in about 10 minutes...

  19. #1059

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    What about the guy to the right?

  20. #1060
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    Quote Originally Posted by MASUGNEN View Post
    What about the guy to the right?
    The guy on the right is Rodion Mamontov, the owner of Moscow based LEFORM concept store. He was the first one to bring the Belgian & Japanese designers to Russia in the mid 90s. LEFORM were the first one to start selling Carpe Diem & LMaltieri in Eastern Europe in 1999 if I'm not mistaken. Maurizio had been a guest of Rodion around 2000-01 & they'd travelled around Russia's Golden Ring for a few weeks back then.
    Last edited by oleglupin; 11-23-2015 at 08:01 AM.

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