m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

[Johnny]

I suppose that's what I was thinking albert. If the construction is inherently problematic - why bother, when a sleeve with seams looks better?

[Chinorlz]

I suppose that's what I was thinking albert. If the construction is inherently problematic - why bother, when a sleeve with seams looks better?

That's a good question Johnny :)

Amadei has been constructing that style of sleeve seam since his Linea days and has carried it over ever since his first solo collection. I feel like it works well on the aviator, in shirts and in the coats that I have seen but perhaps you're right and he should consider something that gives a more anatomic fit through the arm... he could dart in the elbow crook prior to running the angled seam stitch... that would generate a more naturally fitting "bend". Who knows though. It's become almost a 'signature' sleeve construction of Amadei's so it's likely not to change.

It doesn't really bother me (even with that sort of elbow crinkling) since Amadei pieces have always been about a level of comfort and "oldness". Contrasted with CCP where something like elbow crinkling in a suit jacket would be unacceptable to me, Amadei's pieces have that "soft" and broken-in sort of overall feel that make me give it more leeway in terms of fit and function.

...although certainly the pieces still have to be the right size

[Casius]

Honestly, I think it just doesn't fit that particular model very well. Looks like you have to be 5'10" or taller to pull off that suit. Or maybe just the pants...

I do like it though but like Albert said, that suit in a single color would be fantastic. (which I believe it was ordered that way by a few stores)

[lowrey]

I was going to say the same thing, I wouldn't judge the fit based on that model.

I've tried that jacket on in a different material and it looked pretty good imo, not puffy like that. same goes for the 5-pocket trousers, we've seen them look much better.

[eaglewood]

You don't buy a suit like that for its classic construction so that gives you a bit of freedom to enjoy the thing itself. I really like that pattern and the shape that the material takes especially on the pants. The closure on the jacket breaks up the traditional barrel chest and it works pretty well. It seems that the collar might stand up and the lapel flips up to close all the way up which would be pretty versatile. I would not mind something like that in the wardrobe.

[snafu]

yeh you dont go to amadei cause you want a ccp razor suit
i think it is how its ment to be model maybe isnt perfect
his designs are all about simplifying patterns and choice of fabric and this is a great example of that

on another note what sort of themes issues do you think ma deals with if any ? do you think he just is about a garment rather than themes etc i mean ann obviously has poetry and romanticism, poell is pretty dark amd twisted, raf has many futuristic refrences
is maurizio seperate from this

[eaglewood]

on another note what sort of themes issues do you think ma deals with if any ? do you think he just is about a garment rather than themes etc i mean ann obviously has poetry and romanticism, poell is pretty dark amd twisted, raf has many futuristic refrences
is maurizio seperate from this[/QUOTE]

I don't know for sure but if I reflect on it I would say that he is probably about the garments and the fabrics rather than themes.

[Casius]

Yea, I highly doubt he designs with a theme involved. He seems more about construction/fabrics.
I would like to know what kind of 'inspiration' he uses to come up with his collection.

[ddohnggo]

his theme is the following:

[Casius]

lol. Dolla dolla bills ya'll!

[Casius]

Some MA+...

[Johnny]

Don't want to particularly harp on about this, but I'm genuinely interested to understand the appeal. I know that you don't go there for a perfectly or classically tailored suit; that's obvious. Do'nt think it's the model either - an arm's an arm. There's nothing wrong with quirk, or detail, or unusual fabric, or construction. My point is that if the quirk is impractical and serves no useful purpose is it just decoration for the sake of it? OK - he decides to make the sleeve section out of one piece of fabric - the result is that the sleeves look weird. He didn't (I suspect) decide to make a sleeve that looked crumpled and out of shape, and then concluded that the only way to do this was a single-piece construction. So it looks a bit like he just did it for the sake of using a single piece of fabric, on the basis that this in itself would look good.

[philip nod]

i'm not sure if this answers your question
but one sleeve is pulled up
and the other sleeve fits naturally, longer
they show the pants in the same way
from behind the pulled up sleeve looks bunched
up and terrible
i don't think anybody mentioned this or sorry if its obvious

[osn19]

As much as I like MA+ in general, I wonder if there is any inspiration, reference, or position lately in his work. Everything seems to be about construction techniques and fabrics selection and high pricing, just like he's trying to improve his tricks with each new collection, like a magician improving the same show over again for the same crowd.
I would like to see SS09 in person and find out that there is something new. Might be disapointing. Can't wait though

Yea, I highly doubt he designs with a theme involved. He seems more about construction/fabrics.
I would like to know what kind of 'inspiration' he uses to come up with his collection.

[ddohnggo]

om did a record about it