Thread: m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

  1. #2181

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    give me a few days to post up a couple classics. the reverse calf two clasp shoulder bag, the blue leather lined elephant pocket "smoking" or cognac jacket, the thick calf leather ankle boot


    s/s07 was the first season the aviator too, which was off the charts. like nothing I had ever seen. it was in a whole nother league.

    the overlock was in the other league. along with the "rain" pattern. and the black derby w the hardware. the A suit hit in f/w and sold out quickly.
    it would be a year bf the five pocket hit in Tokyo. the pants were the only weak spot in the ensemble. let's not forget the wallet debuted in this season (I think) so the cycle was complete. in s/s 07 amadei briefly held the title.
    when the fencing came out in fw carol started wearing pinstripes
    Last edited by philip nod; 04-09-2010 at 07:41 PM.
    One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.

  2. #2182

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    i think this is the ss07 aviator, no?
    edit - my pics disappeared.
    Last edited by cjbreed; 04-10-2010 at 10:38 AM.

  3. #2183

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    That aviator is beyond all others that followed. The subtle irregularities and fabric chioce solidify it as the greatest. Though I've heard it's somewhat less wearer friendly than the ss08. Also very nice, but I prefer the less polished version.

  4. #2184

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    I found the thing to be very bothersome combersome almost impossible to wear. it might have been to small for me. I love the s/s 09 version. that thing might have been the first piece to set the classifieds ablaze
    One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.

  5. #2185

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    I owned one briefly, but it was way too big. Very stiff, but that's what I loved about it. I could see how it could rub and be uncomfortable. Not sure if that fabric would ever really break-in.

    My SS08 is nice. Very soft and versatile. But it doesn't have that awkwardness and charm of the 07.

    So SS07 was the first aviator? I received a message awhile back from Diego. He said he thought he had an 06, but he really wasn't sure. He's got like five of them.

  6. #2186

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    the s/s 07 is akin to wearing armor. it also got v hot very quickly.
    I'm sure Diego probably located a prototype or something legendary like the rocket launching boba fett.
    One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.

  7. #2187
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKA*NYC View Post
    while i haven't been the biggest patron of amadei's last few collections (largely owing to color and sizing issues) i still regard him at the absolute top of his league. even if he repeats himself over and over the product is arguably better than just about anything else out there.

    edit: agreed with nod's above post. amadei and poell remain neck and neck and head and shoulders above the rest. innovation isn't everything. i wish rick was still stuck in 2007.
    I concur. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
    Last edited by comex9; 04-14-2010 at 08:45 AM.

  8. #2188

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    Great retrospective link:

    http://www.arthur.gr.jp/blog/gh/archives/ma/index.html

    use google translator and with that combined with the lovely images you get a nice run through of some highlights over the last few years. Grandmalicious.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  9. #2189

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    ^^thanks for the link
    nice collection of images for sure...

    so, what's the general consensus on this piece:


    the outer layer fabric is very cool. i'm just a little put off by the button placement...

  10. #2190

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    ^Yeah, it's too high. I've seen one button on long coats pulled off when they're lower. But I'd almost always go for 2. Really though, it's hard to say until you try it on and see how it wears.

  11. #2191

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    i've tried on the shorter version - thought the jacket rocked, and the button placement worked well with the breast pockets and collar.


    image courtesy sartorialoft blog
    Last edited by een; 04-15-2010 at 04:35 PM. Reason: added image

  12. #2192
    Senior Member ddohnggo's Avatar
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    the button is removable. still not a big fan
    Did you get and like the larger dick?

  13. #2193

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    I could see how this would look better on a shorter version. The filmsy collar is helping though.

  14. #2194
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    wack. i really don't see all the fascination with grandma. are we looking at different things? all i see is average fabrics, average construction. yeah, the seamwork is nice and all, but the rest is perfectly forgettable (except the boots and some bags). to compare him with carol seems strange...
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  15. #2195

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    wack. i really don't see all the fascination with grandma. are we looking at different things? all i see is average fabrics, average construction. yeah, the seamwork is nice and all, but the rest is perfectly forgettable (except the boots and some bags). to compare him with carol seems strange...
    this is how I see it as well for the most part, other than a few items with nice shapes and what not, but otherwise it doesn't quite get my goat.
    www.matthewhk.net

    let me show you a few thangs

  16. #2196

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    i guess i'm going to try to reply to faust, eternal, and ftb all together, but in as brief a manner as possible. with no mention of price. obviously i can only speak for myself (but i think many will feel the same)

    one of the main reasons i'm so drawn to m.a+ is because it looks good on me. of course one could argue that yohji or ann are superior designers for whatever reason (fabrics, designs, consistency). but i look bad in yohji and i've yet to come across an ann piece that inspires the same feelings in me that ma+ does. and again i think i look silly in ann, partly because ann doesn't suit my personality.

    which brings me to a new thought. i'm also drawn to m.a+ because the nature of his designs suits me best. the rawness, purity, beauty in simplicity + complex patterns and construction are design philosophies most in line with my own perspective on art, etc. which is another reason i look and feel comfortable in the clothes.

    that being said, m.a+ is not the first to do this nor is it the best. but continues et al is a thing of the past. he is the best at what he's doing, this style of clothing, that i can go find in a store right now.

    maybe if avantindietro had a stronger presence that wouldn't be the case. and LUC is not a direct comparison. it's a totally different thing. i do think there are more options now than before, with the emergence of new labels in a similar vein, such as devoa, individual sentiments, and lost&found. we shall see who comes out on top.

    and especially with respect to fabrics there are multiple designers using more luxurious materials, obviously, but thats not always amadei's goal. i think he often uses a stiffer or more raw material in an effort to have a superior product once it is broken in. but i can admit i have a couple pieces that use just average fabric. true. there are m.a+ fails every season. but more wins.

    also, like i said in a previous post. the way i feel about an m.a+ piece upon first look is not the same as how i feel about it after 6 months of wear. it can be underwhelming at first, but that will change when it becomes an extension of you the way few other garments can.

    anyway, until someone comes along that is doing it better, m.a+ will get my dollar votes.

    and the ccp comparison is totally legit to me. ccp is more of a mad scientist clothing experimenter, but honestly who else can u class with m.a+? who else is in his class/category?

    that was not as brief as i had hoped...

  17. #2197
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I didn't want to start comparing (and i was only compelled to say something again because of the ccp comparison), but to me both devoa and indi sent trump grandma. easily. i am not saying, by the way, that you shouldn't like it :-)
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  18. #2198

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    bold statement.
    One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.

  19. #2199
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    /\ wait til you see my devoa twist pants this summer.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  20. #2200

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    I didn't want to start comparing (and i was only compelled to say something again because of the ccp comparison), but to me both devoa and indi sent trump grandma. easily. i am not saying, by the way, that you shouldn't like it :-)
    this reminds me of the last barry mcgee show i saw at deitch. i was surprised to find it underwhelming because by that point so many artists were doing barry mcgee better than he could do himself. whenever i see a great piece from these two labels my first question is always "is that m.a+?" hell i even asked it today.

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