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m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

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  • BSR
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2008
    • 1562

    Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
    Let's be honest here, the word "XXX" is thrown around the world while most people have no notions of what goes into, say, a YYY (YYY has an analytic connexion to XXX, of course).
    redacted for universal truth
    pix

    Originally posted by Fuuma
    Fuck you and your viewpoint, I hate this depoliticized environment where every opinion should be respected, no matter how moronic. My avatar was chosen just for you, die in a ditch fucker.

    Comment

    • zamb
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2006
      • 5834

      Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
      Let's be honest here, the word "artisanal" is thrown around SZ while most people have no notions of what goes into, say, a bespoke suit.


      ps: hand sewn buttonholes are found on some RTW garments, heck I got some jackets with those (and others with machine sewn buttonholes). Bespoke jackets usually include a bunch of "machine" work. I know a tailor who made an entirely hand sewn suit for himself and it was more an experiment and demonstration of the superiority of machine work for some parts than anything else. He studied couture and now works for a big manufacturer so he can do stress tests and allkinds of fun stuff with different stitchings. Very often tailoring myths about the superiority of handwork are debunked, Couture and bespoke are also about romanticism.
      Agreed.
      which is why i have become a pragmatist in my own work.........whatever yields the most desired results is the means which I am going to use to execute a piece.........
      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
      .................................................. .......................


      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

      Comment

      • Fuuma
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 4050

        Originally posted by BSR View Post
        redacted for universal truth
        I'll kick your ass on sunday. Ok I agree. :)
        Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
        http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

        Comment

        • BSR
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2008
          • 1562

          Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
          I'll kick your ass on sunday. Ok I agree. :)


          you'll put a bespoke white shirt
          let's go to the Flore
          and prepare yourself
          for a battle of "bons mots"

          we'll pretend you're BHL
          and i'll be Enthoven
          Who's going to be the Dombasle?
          pix

          Originally posted by Fuuma
          Fuck you and your viewpoint, I hate this depoliticized environment where every opinion should be respected, no matter how moronic. My avatar was chosen just for you, die in a ditch fucker.

          Comment

          • Fuuma
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 4050

            Originally posted by BSR View Post


            you'll put a bespoke white shirt
            let's go to the Flore
            and prepare yourself
            for a battle of "bons mots"

            we'll pretend you're BHL
            and i'll be Enthoven
            Who's going to be the Dombasle?
            Do we know any female dwarves?
            Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
            http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

            Comment

            • Johnny
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 1923

              Originally posted by tricotineacetat View Post

              I would be intrigued to see some of these garments up close that to anyone in here, hold up the mystique of artisanship in MA+ (or other related designer's) clothing - I'm not here to impose a prejudiced opinion but to see what really is the 'extra' to the garments, despite the small scale production runs.


              Menswear as we know it today is being made after quite rigid, orthodox fabrication traditions that for some odd reason, make people like Poell an innovator for when he tapes his canvassed interlinings into his jackets instead of stitching them (weather or not that makes for a better result is another question).
              Re bit in bold....isn't that a little disingenuous? It's pretty clear that you are prejudging matters and have a particular slant on things. That's fair enough, although suggesting that you aren't, isn't.

              And re Poell taping his seams inside, I remember asking this question ages ago. It seems to me that it can't make the thing better - in fact it must destroy almost the very reason for hand-basting an interlining in the first place, since it renders the interlining entirely "fixed" and not "floating". Anyway Poell is beyond these critisizms...

              Comment

              • BSR
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2008
                • 1562

                Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
                Do we know any female dwarves?
                I'll ask Alexis, he may have that in stock
                pix

                Originally posted by Fuuma
                Fuck you and your viewpoint, I hate this depoliticized environment where every opinion should be respected, no matter how moronic. My avatar was chosen just for you, die in a ditch fucker.

                Comment

                • cjbreed
                  Senior Member
                  • Feb 2009
                  • 2712

                  Originally posted by tricotineacetat View Post
                  I would be intrigued to see some of these garments up close that to anyone in here, hold up the mystique of artisanship in MA+ (or other related designer's) clothing - I'm not here to impose a prejudiced opinion but to see what really is the 'extra' to the garments, despite the small scale production runs.
                  this was partially my point. i'm not educated enough in clothing design and manufacturing to give you a detailed response on why amadei is an artisan or why the products justify the price (thoroughly debatable). i guess my opinion, based on feeling and experience wearing the garments, is that it is hard to "see" what is special, it must be felt and touched and experienced.

                  i'd also say the jil sander comparison is a little iffy. m.a+ is stripped down or minimal in a different way than jil is. what is special about m.a+ is that the patterns are often times actually very complex. i consider the design as minimal in that it is anatomical and raw. hence the emphasis on leather. its a second skin type situation. and i feel that amadei has placed a lot of effort on finding fabrics that behave like leather. thats what i mean by molding to your body and that they have to be broken in, etc. sometimes it feels like you're wearing lightweight body armor. maybe thats just me though...


                  bsr maybe u should wear it when u meet with fuuma
                  dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

                  Comment

                  • BSR
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 1562

                    Originally posted by cjbreed View Post

                    bsr maybe u should wear it when u meet with fuuma
                    i'm afraid i'll be allowed to wear anything but grandma underwear this day
                    pix

                    Originally posted by Fuuma
                    Fuck you and your viewpoint, I hate this depoliticized environment where every opinion should be respected, no matter how moronic. My avatar was chosen just for you, die in a ditch fucker.

                    Comment

                    • cjbreed
                      Senior Member
                      • Feb 2009
                      • 2712

                      Originally posted by lowrey View Post
                      good post cj.

                      and you are all welcome. that photo would have never made its way on to the interwebz if I hadn't dragged more photos out of Amadei for our interview
                      do you think u could also drag out her name, phone number, address, favorite color, favorite movie, favorite type of food and maybe a bikini shot?
                      dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

                      Comment

                      • lowrey
                        ventiundici
                        • Dec 2006
                        • 8383

                        Originally posted by tricotineacetat View Post
                        The term 'sportswear' does technically not mean performance clothing or active wear as the name may guess, but 'casual' (=non-tailored) clothing - What makes the sewing of properly tailored garments 'artisanal' are particular working steps in which the fabric is shaped and structured from the inside, those steps were originally done by hand (and are still done in Haute Couture, down to hand-sewn buttonholes and other features that are way too pricy for ready-to-wear scales) or done nowadays by expensive machinery (if a factory/workshop is specialized in the making of particular clothes such as tailored suits), but nonetheless require a lot of additional consideration and care during the realization from a toile to a finished prototype.

                        Again, it's not needed for all garments to be interlined and constructed to death, this is after all what the Japanese and Belgian designers rebelled against with their distinctly different silhouettes and what inevitably started as a process long before when 'designer's ready to wear' was introduced in the late 50ies - A lot of innovations were made not only in terms of style but also to accommodate less expensive manufacturing... this is also why there is quite a huge difference in the pricing of 'real' Couture garments and luxury ready to wear, since the manufacturing process (which is then almost entirely by hand) is fundamentally different...

                        It's really important to know the classical artisanship in a way to know what you want to do fundamentally different, which, for example makes Yohji Yamamoto's demi-couture mainline so special - you see that there is an element of craft and construction to his designs that is not purely a graphic styling, particularly for when you look at the cutting work (I suppose anyone that had the chance to see some of his womenswear up close has had similar experiences)... the way it's sewn however is essentially different from typical couture sewing, thus making not only the style but also the craft quite modern.

                        I still don't see how any of this would warrant saying that Amadei's work is strictly not artisanal. surely the term can be interpreted in many ways and yes, its thrown around quite often, but in all it's simplicity I think it means goods that are made in a more traditional and smaller scale production process, as opposed to larger scale production in a remote factory. a small atelier with a handful of workers handling the design and construction process surely meets this criteria.
                        "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

                        STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37852

                          tricotin, your definition of sportswear is outdated, just like that in most of the dictionaries that were compiled in the 50s. A mismatched blazer and a pair of slacks no longer signify sportswear.
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • tricotineacetat
                            Senior Member
                            • Aug 2009
                            • 206

                            Originally posted by Faust View Post
                            tricotin, your definition of sportswear is outdated, just like that in most of the dictionaries that were compiled in the 50s. A mismatched blazer and a pair of slacks no longer signify sportswear.
                            Oh, it does for when you are dealing with manufacturers of various scales. The romance of clothing being designed and made in the same place by the designer or expert workers is quite unreal (the price would then easily be double as high) - Also, weather it is 50 or 500 pieces made from the same style nowadays does not necessarily inform that the workshops or the fabrication methods would need to be different from another. You would sometimes be surprised how large scale producers are taking on production runs from much smaller designers also as there simply aren't that many luxury goods companies nowadays that can provide for such huge quantities, everyone scales back to smaller runs and therefor it's also up to the factories to offer the flexibilities to meet with such demands.

                            Comment

                            • lowrey
                              ventiundici
                              • Dec 2006
                              • 8383

                              firstly, whatever the classic definition of sportswear is, I think it has very little to do with this topic.

                              Originally posted by tricotineacetat View Post
                              The romance of clothing being designed and made in the same place by the designer or expert workers is quite unreal (the price would then easily be double as high)
                              romantic or not, that is m.a's manufacturing process. apart from the footwear, which is made together with a shoemaker, everything is made by a small team in amadei's atelier.
                              "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

                              STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

                              Comment

                              • zamb
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2006
                                • 5834

                                Originally posted by lowrey View Post
                                firstly, whatever the classic definition of sportswear is, I think it has very little to do with this topic.



                                romantic or not, that is m.a's manufacturing process. apart from the footwear, which is made together with a shoemaker, everything is made by a small team in amadei's atelier.
                                and that's the way it should be............
                                “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                                .................................................. .......................


                                Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                                Comment

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