m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

[lowrey]

That is what Amadei told me

[Avantster]

I would be intrigued to see some of these garments up close that to anyone in here, hold up the mystique of artisanship in MA+ (or other related designer's) clothing - I'm not here to impose a prejudiced opinion but to see what really is the 'extra' to the garments, despite the small scale production runs.

Artisanship and mystique aside I believe that the strongest point of Amadei to be his pattern making abilities. No doubt there are hits and certainly some misses, but one can't deny the excellent patternwork in a number of key pieces that are a testament to the continual rethinking of construction, resulting in garments that are like a second skin, both functional and visually appealing, with minimal seams and top stitching.

A great example being his five pocket pants, a reinvention of the tired classic, utilizing a curved seam encircling the pant, allowing the pockets to emerge naturally from that seam. Similarly in some jackets, coats as well as bags and accessories (notably the original 'accordion', 'horse saddle' waist bag and origami wallets that utilise single pieces of leather with minimal stitching, instead relying upon folds and point anchors).

It's really important to know the classical artisanship in a way to know what you want to do fundamentally different, which, for example makes Yohji Yamamoto's demi-couture mainline so special - you see that there is an element of craft and construction to his designs that is not purely a graphic styling, particularly for when you look at the cutting work (I suppose anyone that had the chance to see some of his womenswear up close has had similar experiences)... the way it's sewn however is essentially different from typical couture sewing, thus making not only the style but also the craft quite modern.

This is an important point and Fuuma's comment was spot on, though in most cases it applies to people other than the designers discussed here.

[Faust]

I agree with Avantster. MA+'s biggest strength when it comes to clothes are the interesting patterns.

[DHC]

I agree with Avantster. MA+'s biggest strength when it comes to clothes are the interesting patterns.

Word! We'll let this picture speak it's thousand words...

[Faust]

/\ indeed!

[Johnny]

this is not meant in an argumentative way particularly, but isn't that pattern, while more intricate than a flat tee or dress shirt, far simpler that most stuff that Yohji or Junya would do (for women)?

[Fuuma]

this is not meant in an argumentative way particularly, but isn't that pattern, while more intricate than a flat tee or dress shirt, far simpler that most stuff that Yohji or Junya would do (for women)?

Yeah...

Women's clothing and pattern from great designers usually make you realize how basic menswear is though, it's not about MA+...

[snafu]

jevna i have been there. yes his items are actualy all made there, he has two shops one basically for cutting, finnishing and sampling, another for the actual construction all within a few miles from each other

A., you sure about that? Have you seen that? I am actually very curious. It sounds quite improbable to me, honestly. Often, production differs a lot from what sales people tell us.... But i am ready to be get surprised.

Johnny i know where your coming from, MA has done some beautifully simple patterns, my girlfriend is lucky enough to own a few of his 'tube' pieces where he is using specific fabric made in a tube no side seams and then he anchors suing simple leather straps and beautiful silver pinching. Maurizo's first season were fantastic, simple and thought out ideas that really didn't need too much progression (Another argument i keep hearing this was straight after he left carpe so were they his ideas honestly i am not so sure) But now he has gone his own way. I argue HIS biggest strengths are not patterns, no they simply are not, they are simply a progression of linea but his strength lies within his fabrics and i love his take on silver hardwear. This in my opinion is far better than the carpe hardwear, wether it is better than Avantindietro i simply have not experienced enough to make that judgement.
I am not sure if his fabrics are always used within the right context; my drop crotch pants are actually quite abrasive when walking and really i need to wear leggings under them (remember this is from Spring Summer, but the fabric is truly stunning.

So simply Johnny i think maurizio can do simple; i have seen it. But as seasons go by he has to change he has to change his designs and somehow make them new and now i feel, he is only changing an idea for that. I don't seem much progression in the new work from him. I still love his garments but i would spend my money elsewhere now. Yohji and others seem to have this effortless attraction Junya i have no clue over, i can see what you love about them. They are your get up, playful not so serious a chance to break from the suit. Ma i think must appeal to the person who does not wear a suit but wears a 'povera' everyday you know what i mean i guess it is all becoming too serious or too dark blah blah.

[mortalveneer]

Word! We'll let this picture speak it's thousand words...

Good lord. That picture spoke a thousand words and then pimp-slapped me cross the forehead. What particular piece is that?

I deduced a little from the photo title, but I want more...

[Faust]

this is not meant in an argumentative way particularly, but isn't that pattern, while more intricate than a flat tee or dress shirt, far simpler that most stuff that Yohji or Junya would do (for women)?

Yes, but basically have to echo Fuuma here. No contest between what can be done for women and men. As far as menswear, I think his patterns are pretty neat and unconventional.

[YoungM]

Good lord. That picture spoke a thousand words and then pimp-slapped me cross the forehead. What particular piece is that?

I deduced a little from the photo title, but I want more...

Just a guess, but I think it's the leather blazer, turned inside out. Hobo had a WAYWT with his inside out a while ago, looks absolutely stunning.

As for the patterns, I've limited knowledge, but they are pretty cool. I've got a leather shirt that's absolutely gorgeous. If only the arms were a bit larger :(

[DHC]

jevna i have been there. yes his items are actualy all made there, he has two shops one basically for cutting, finnishing and sampling, another for the actual construction all within a few miles from each other

Johnny i know where your coming from, MA has done some beautifully simple patterns, my girlfriend is lucky enough to own a few of his 'tube' pieces where he is using specific fabric made in a tube no side seams and then he anchors suing simple leather straps and beautiful silver pinching. Maurizo's first season were fantastic, simple and thought out ideas that really didn't need too much progression (Another argument i keep hearing this was straight after he left carpe so were they his ideas honestly i am not so sure) But now he has gone his own way. I argue HIS biggest strengths are not patterns, no they simply are not, they are simply a progression of linea but his strength lies within his fabrics and i love his take on silver hardwear. This in my opinion is far better than the carpe hardwear, wether it is better than Avantindietro i simply have not experienced enough to make that judgement.
I am not sure if his fabrics are always used within the right context; my drop crotch pants are actually quite abrasive when walking and really i need to wear leggings under them (remember this is from Spring Summer, but the fabric is truly stunning.

So simply Johnny i think maurizio can do simple; i have seen it. But as seasons go by he has to change he has to change his designs and somehow make them new and now i feel, he is only changing an idea for that. I don't seem much progression in the new work from him. I still love his garments but i would spend my money elsewhere now. Yohji and others seem to have this effortless attraction Junya i have no clue over, i can see what you love about them. They are your get up, playful not so serious a chance to break from the suit. Ma i think must appeal to the person who does not wear a suit but wears a 'povera' everyday you know what i mean i guess it is all becoming too serious or too dark blah blah.

Yes, Amadei is a true artisan. His first season was amazing and I feel it was a far enough departure from the work of Linea to warrant notice. There were many elements that really set his work apart. Granted we have experienced a kind of stagnancy in his work (I guess this is subjective), but all that has changed. His F/W collection is expansive and shows his recognition of the need to move forward in design terms. Funny thing is that with all the new pieces he's preparing to share with us, all this concurrent talk about Linea has never been more true than with his upcoming collection. For instance, a new reiteratioin of the Linea Boucle Scarfed Coat has surfaced with slight modifications to the silhouette and a shift in pockets stance. But whether the concept was his or not remains moot at this point. Amadei has taken a concept and given us his translation. This is not as easy as it seems and is of utmost importance. I for one welcome anything devotedly reflecting the glory of Linea. Damn...I didn't realize how long these posts can get without saying much. I'll stop here anyways...don't want to bore you all to tears (if you've even made it this far).

[snafu]

I guess no one can agrue without Linea there would be mAcross. This is something he himself would not even argue. Where our principles lie is different. Daivid you seem to be the person not to own any Augusta footwear ;) HA. This does not mean they don't make nice boots but simply i will not own any.

I am open minded, it was all before my time as sad as it is.
Linea is somethign that will not happen again, nor would i want it to. It truly was something special.

[philip nod]

when did amadei die?

[snafu]

inbetween ss08 fw08/09