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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #16
    Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="xcoldricex"][quote user="Faust"]

    [quote user="xcoldricex"]i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(
    [/quote]



    It's outstanding. That stuff makes you want to stay and just stroke the fabric (hides).



    [/quote]



    sorry,
    i guess i should make a nick hart thread.. but does it go on
    sale? i really need to try one on and (probably) pick one up at
    some point....



    [/quote]



    As far as I remember, it did go on sale at Bergdorf.



    Servo,
    I agree. Given the guys background, I'd assume he has excellent
    connections and found a good backer. Nothing to it, really.
    And those jackets look ill-fitting.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • bakla
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 902

      #17
      Re: Thom Browne

      [quote user="Faust"][quote user="xcoldricex"][quote user="Faust"]

      [quote user="xcoldricex"]i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(
      [/quote]



      It's outstanding. That stuff makes you want to stay and just stroke the fabric (hides).



      [/quote]



      sorry,
      i guess i should make a nick hart thread.. but does it go on
      sale? i really need to try one on and (probably) pick one up at
      some point....



      [/quote]



      As far as I remember, it did go on sale at Bergdorf.



      Servo,
      I agree. Given the guys background, I'd assume he has excellent
      connections and found a good backer. Nothing to it, really.
      And those jackets look ill-fitting.



      [/quote]





      Don't they just? Unfortunately, that's probably the correct fit - Thom approved that overstuffed sausage look for this shoot, I'd imagine. I assume the model has a great, muscular body, and this is one of the reasons that models tend to be lean/skinny (whether male or female) when you want to focus on the clothing - fuller physiques can oft overwhelm the line of an outfit. I admire Browne's singular point of view, and I applaud his metier, but I also find those outfits downright fugly. The guy in my neighborhood who wears Thom Browne to work looks pretty spry whenever I see him though.

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #18
        Re: Thom Browne

        [quote user="bakla"][quote user="Faust"][quote user="xcoldricex"][quote user="Faust"]

        [quote user="xcoldricex"]i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(
        [/quote]



        It's outstanding. That stuff makes you want to stay and just stroke the fabric (hides).



        [/quote]



        sorry,
        i guess i should make a nick hart thread.. but does it go on
        sale? i really need to try one on and (probably) pick one up at
        some point....



        [/quote]



        As far as I remember, it did go on sale at Bergdorf.



        Servo,
        I agree. Given the guys background, I'd assume he has excellent
        connections and found a good backer. Nothing to it, really.
        And those jackets look ill-fitting.



        [/quote]





        Don't
        they just? Unfortunately, that's probably the correct fit - Thom
        approved that overstuffed sausage look for this shoot, I'd imagine. I
        assume the model has a great, muscular body, and this is one of the
        reasons that models tend to be lean/skinny (whether male or female)
        when you want to focus on the clothing - fuller physiques can oft
        overwhelm the line of an outfit. I admire Browne's singular point of
        view, and I applaud his metier, but I also find those outfits downright
        fugly. The guy in my neighborhood who wears Thom Browne to work looks
        pretty spry whenever I see him though.



        [/quote]



        Yes,
        there is a disconnect between the
        (New)England-private-school-WASP-athlete types he chose and the slim
        look he promotes. I'm sure they'll fit better on a skinny
        person. Love his fabrics, btw. I wonder if he will end up
        as a US based quality suit maker once the infatuation with that
        silhouette goes away. What do you think? Is this style
        lasting or will he sooner or later have to get away from it?

        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • Tafkap
          Senior Member
          • Oct 2006
          • 106

          #19
          Re: Thom Browne



          I really try to not comment on things that I don't like or be negative but I do anyways...this is all my opinion, but personally I think Thom Browne is TERRIBLE. First of all, most of what is written in the article, things he has achieved, paris, harry, etc, doesnt mean anything. The design itself can still be terrible. Britney Spears is a terrible singer but she sells alot of albums. Most of the people who have been in fashion for a whileare SO out of touch with what's good now. The thing is, like someone up there said, where is he going to go with all of this? Menswear is alot easier to design than womenswear, espescially if you only do suits! How easy is that? And why is this innovative? What...?A designer shortens the pants and says, "Im sticken it to the man!" Give me a break! That's not innovative.Do a collection with more thanone idea.His whole collection is based on shorts and short pants! He's awful!If someone makes crappy art or design there is always someone there that will say it's innovative. But trueartists and great designers do things because of a hugeunderstanding and something with substance.I see alot of people talking about Carol Christian Poell and someone mentioned Rick Owens. Cmon! Compared to these two guys Thom Browne is a wannabe. A Fake, like Britney Spears.

          Comment

          • clay
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 284

            #20
            Re: Thom Browne



            Wow....... I know many people bust his chops but you gotta give it to him. He really has helped the boring mens suit business. I design mens and womens and there really has been a resurgence in interest for suits and I benefit from that. I think Thoms proportions are too extreme, but after years of wearing my pants way too long and snubbing english style shorter inseams, I must say I find I like a slightly shorter pant with a nice substantial classic shoe or boot. I actually really prefer the CDG way back in the 80's with the longer jacket, shorter inseam and nice shoe or boot( there is a great photo of that look in A History Of Menswear).Also I must add it is harder imo to do menswear and suits especially because we only have pant, jacket, coat, vest. The goal is to reach an audience and just maybe pay our rent with our interpretations. And I do mean interpret cause the components have not changed for hundreds of years. Women of course have more options. I think what makes CCP , RO, and many of the designers featured on this sight so exciting is that they come up with new and not so new ways to interpret the basics we are stuck with and they do it beautifully. Do you like Raf at Jil Sander? I do as equally as I like CCP.These guys make us think. Now I cant say that for Armani ( anymore I must add).I swear I thought his little suit odd at first but when you see real people in them, not as extreme as his own, it looks pretty darn suave and cool.



            [quote user="Tafkap"]



            I really try to not comment on things that I don't like or be negative but I do anyways...this is all my opinion, but personally I think Thom Browne is TERRIBLE. First of all, most of what is written in the article, things he has achieved, paris, harry, etc, doesnt mean anything. The design itself can still be terrible. Britney Spears is a terrible singer but she sells alot of albums. Most of the people who have been in fashion for a whileare SO out of touch with what's good now. The thing is, like someone up there said, where is he going to go with all of this? Menswear is alot easier to design than womenswear, espescially if you only do suits! How easy is that? And why is this innovative? What...?A designer shortens the pants and says, "Im sticken it to the man!" Give me a break! That's not innovative.Do a collection with more thanone idea.His whole collection is based on shorts and short pants! He's awful!If someone makes crappy art or design there is always someone there that will say it's innovative. But trueartists and great designers do things because of a hugeunderstanding and something with substance.I see alot of people talking about Carol Christian Poell and someone mentioned Rick Owens. Cmon! Compared to these two guys Thom Browne is a wannabe. A Fake, like Britney Spears.

            [/quote]

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #21
              Re: Thom Browne

              [quote user="clay"]

              Wow....... I know many people bust his chops but you gotta give it to him. He really has helped the boring mens suit business. I design mens and womens and there really has been a resurgence in interest for suits and I benefit from that. I think Thoms proportions are too extreme, but after years of wearing my pants way too long and snubbing english style shorter inseams, I must say I find I like a slightly shorter pant with a nice substantial classic shoe or boot. I actually really prefer the CDG way back in the 80's with the longer jacket, shorter inseam and nice shoe or boot( there is a great photo of that look in A History Of Menswear).Also I must add it is harder imo to do menswear and suits especially because we only have pant, jacket, coat, vest. The goal is to reach an audience and just maybe pay our rent with our interpretations. And I do mean interpret cause the components have not changed for hundreds of years. Women of course have more options. I think what makes CCP , RO, and many of the designers featured on this sight so exciting is that they come up with new and not so new ways to interpret the basics we are stuck with and they do it beautifully. Do you like Raf at Jil Sander? I do as equally as I like CCP.These guys make us think. Now I cant say that for Armani ( anymore I must add).I swear I thought his little suit odd at first but when you see real people in them, not as extreme as his own, it looks pretty darn suave and cool.



              [quote user="Tafkap"]



              I really try to not comment on things that I don't like or be negative but I do anyways...this is all my opinion, but personally I think Thom Browne is TERRIBLE. First of all, most of what is written in the article, things he has achieved, paris, harry, etc, doesnt mean anything. The design itself can still be terrible. Britney Spears is a terrible singer but she sells alot of albums. Most of the people who have been in fashion for a whileare SO out of touch with what's good now. The thing is, like someone up there said, where is he going to go with all of this? Menswear is alot easier to design than womenswear, espescially if you only do suits! How easy is that? And why is this innovative? What...?A designer shortens the pants and says, "Im sticken it to the man!" Give me a break! That's not innovative.Do a collection with more thanone idea.His whole collection is based on shorts and short pants! He's awful!If someone makes crappy art or design there is always someone there that will say it's innovative. But trueartists and great designers do things because of a hugeunderstanding and something with substance.I see alot of people talking about Carol Christian Poell and someone mentioned Rick Owens. Cmon! Compared to these two guys Thom Browne is a wannabe. A Fake, like Britney Spears.



              [/quote][/quote]



              I am kind of in between these two opinions, lol. I don't think he's a fake, there is definitely something genuine about going out on a limb like that. Well, not really on a limb, because I am sure he has had excellent connections in fashion, retail, PR, etc., but still - that does not mean that people will blindly buy what's on offer. On the other hand, I do think that his work is not creative enough to instill respect (for me personally) that I give to real innovators. It's kind of a one-trick pony thing with very limited opportunities. That is why I wondered aloud about what will happen when the fad for this silhouette will go away? Will he just become a quality suit maker based in the US, or will there always be a nice for this type of a thing, or will he be creative enough to propell this in some other direction?



              There is one VERY important thing missing from the article. How is he doing in the Asian markets? It seems to be definitely the type of thing that would do well there. I think if gets discovered in Japan, for example, it will be a huge next step.

              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • Tafkap
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2006
                • 106

                #22
                Re: Thom Browne



                clay--Wow....... I know many people bust his chops but you gotta give it to him. He really has helped the boring mens suit business. I design mens and womens and there really has been a resurgence in interest for suits and I benefit from that. I think Thoms proportions are too extreme, but after years of wearing my pants way too long and snubbing english style shorter inseams, I must say I find I like a slightly shorter pant with a nice substantial classic shoe or boot. I actually really prefer the CDG way back in the 80's with the longer jacket, shorter inseam and nice shoe or boot( there is a great photo of that look in A History Of Menswear).Also I must add it is harder imo to do menswear and suits especially because we only have pant, jacket, coat, vest. The goal is to reach an audience and just maybe pay our rent with our interpretations. And I do mean interpret cause the components have not changed for hundreds of years. Women of course have more options. I think what makes CCP , RO, and many of the designers featured on this sight so exciting is that they come up with new and not so new ways to interpret the basics we are stuck with and they do it beautifully. Do you like Raf at Jil Sander? I do as equally as I like CCP.These guys make us think. Now I cant say that for Armani ( anymore I must add).I swear I thought his little suit odd at first but when you see real people in them, not as extreme as his own, it looks pretty darn suave and cool.





                Well, In my opinion, WE do have a harder time desining for women. I also design for men and women, and most of the people I work with agree. Gaultier did skirt pants, Margiela did dresses for men...it's not about making the vest, pant, and shirt and saying we ONLY have these....when you say you are doing fashion to make money, it is about following trends. If you are doing it to "pay the bills". The thing is Armani makes a suit that is CUT perfect. It's not aboutchanging things and bringing a spark back. Most designers will tell you the top three things that men and women want. 1. Look 2. Feel 3. Cut.... And Armani makes the most amazing looking, feeling and fitting suits. As far as Thom Browne, they look stupid, they may feel okay, and they are cut like everyone says, Pee-Wee hermanish. If anyone says that they don't look Dorky they arefibbing to themselves!Right now and pretty much always, Armani has made the best and most influential man's suit, period. Raf and Jil or both good. I don't wear suits much. I enjoy making womenswear because in my opinion menswear IS EASY! lol. I like the challenge. It is easy because when it boils down to it, the clothes have to be wearable, no matter who much of an artist you want to be. Then there has to be someone who wants to wear it. And the minute anyone on this forum can post a picture of them wearing a Thom Browne suit, believe me, I will find another job. I prefer old CDG too, but not Thom Browne. The point is, everyone is talking about his suits being short and NOTHING ELSE. Weak.

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  #23
                  Re: Thom Browne

                  Hmm, well, his fabrics are top notch as well. But the prices are outrageous...
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • clay
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 284

                    #24
                    Re: Thom Browne

                    [quote user="Tafkap"]

                    clay--Wow....... I know many people bust his chops but you gotta give it to him. He really has helped the boring mens suit business. I design mens and womens and there really has been a resurgence in interest for suits and I benefit from that. I think Thoms proportions are too extreme, but after years of wearing my pants way too long and snubbing english style shorter inseams, I must say I find I like a slightly shorter pant with a nice substantial classic shoe or boot. I actually really prefer the CDG way back in the 80's with the longer jacket, shorter inseam and nice shoe or boot( there is a great photo of that look in A History Of Menswear).Also I must add it is harder imo to do menswear and suits especially because we only have pant, jacket, coat, vest. The goal is to reach an audience and just maybe pay our rent with our interpretations. And I do mean interpret cause the components have not changed for hundreds of years. Women of course have more options. I think what makes CCP , RO, and many of the designers featured on this sight so exciting is that they come up with new and not so new ways to interpret the basics we are stuck with and they do it beautifully. Do you like Raf at Jil Sander? I do as equally as I like CCP.These guys make us think. Now I cant say that for Armani ( anymore I must add).I swear I thought his little suit odd at first but when you see real people in them, not as extreme as his own, it looks pretty darn suave and cool.





                    Well, In my opinion, WE do have a harder time desining for women. I also design for men and women, and most of the people I work with agree. Gaultier did skirt pants, Margiela did dresses for men...it's not about making the vest, pant, and shirt and saying we ONLY have these....when you say you are doing fashion to make money, it is about following trends. If you are doing it to "pay the bills". The thing is Armani makes a suit that is CUT perfect. It's not aboutchanging things and bringing a spark back. Most designers will tell you the top three things that men and women want. 1. Look 2. Feel 3. Cut.... And Armani makes the most amazing looking, feeling and fitting suits. As far as Thom Browne, they look stupid, they may feel okay, and they are cut like everyone says, Pee-Wee hermanish. If anyone says that they don't look Dorky they arefibbing to themselves!Right now and pretty much always, Armani has made the best and most influential man's suit, period. Raf and Jil or both good. I don't wear suits much. I enjoy making womenswear because in my opinion menswear IS EASY! lol. I like the challenge. It is easy because when it boils down to it, the clothes have to be wearable, no matter who much of an artist you want to be. Then there has to be someone who wants to wear it. And the minute anyone on this forum can post a picture of them wearing a Thom Browne suit, believe me, I will find another job. I prefer old CDG too, but not Thom Browne. The point is, everyone is talking about his suits being short and NOTHING ELSE. Weak.



                    [/quote]



                    OK Tak, I really do see your side and I must say you made some excellent points! But cut goes to fit and feel also, and truthfully Ive never worn one. You are right an Armani suit feels and looks great I am just not moved as I was in the past for his stuff, but hoping to be. I really did enjoy your comments and totally respect your and Faust's opinions( as Faust knows and I hope you do also).




                    Cheers!



                    P.S. I almost died laughing when you said you will " find another job".

                    Comment

                    • Johnny
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 1923

                      #25
                      Re: Thom Browne

                      Those outfits in the pictures that Faust posted look utterly ridiculous! I like some aspects of his clohtes - his shirts in particular are very nice - but those suits just look too small, nothing else to them.Daft really.

                      Comment

                      • xcoldricex
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 1347

                        #26
                        Re: Thom Browne



                        [quote user="Tafkap"]I enjoy making womenswear because in my opinion menswear IS EASY! lol. I like the challenge. It is easy because when it boils down to it, the clothes have to be wearable, no matter who much of an artist you want to be. Then there has to be someone who wants to wear it. And the minute anyone on this forum can post a picture of them wearing a Thom Browne suit, believe me, I will find another job. I prefer old CDG too, but not Thom Browne. The point is, everyone is talking about his suits being short and NOTHING ELSE. Weak.
                        [/quote]



                        menswear is easy? then why do we have such a difficult finding clothes that we (there was a discussion on this board devoted to this rant) like?

                        Comment

                        • nqth
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 350

                          #27
                          Re: Thom Browne



                          It seems that his trousers are not that short in stores



                          from www.luisaviaroma.com





                          Comment

                          • Fuuma
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 4050

                            #28
                            Re: Thom Browne

                            [quote user="Tafkap"]

                            clay--Wow....... I know many people bust his chops but you gotta give it to him. He really has helped the boring mens suit business. I design mens and womens and there really has been a resurgence in interest for suits and I benefit from that. I think Thoms proportions are too extreme, but after years of wearing my pants way too long and snubbing english style shorter inseams, I must say I find I like a slightly shorter pant with a nice substantial classic shoe or boot. I actually really prefer the CDG way back in the 80's with the longer jacket, shorter inseam and nice shoe or boot( there is a great photo of that look in A History Of Menswear).Also I must add it is harder imo to do menswear and suits especially because we only have pant, jacket, coat, vest. The goal is to reach an audience and just maybe pay our rent with our interpretations. And I do mean interpret cause the components have not changed for hundreds of years. Women of course have more options. I think what makes CCP , RO, and many of the designers featured on this sight so exciting is that they come up with new and not so new ways to interpret the basics we are stuck with and they do it beautifully. Do you like Raf at Jil Sander? I do as equally as I like CCP.These guys make us think. Now I cant say that for Armani ( anymore I must add).I swear I thought his little suit odd at first but when you see real people in them, not as extreme as his own, it looks pretty darn suave and cool.





                            Well, In my opinion, WE do have a harder time desining for women. I also design for men and women, and most of the people I work with agree. Gaultier did skirt pants, Margiela did dresses for men...it's not about making the vest, pant, and shirt and saying we ONLY have these....when you say you are doing fashion to make money, it is about following trends. If you are doing it to "pay the bills". The thing is Armani makes a suit that is CUT perfect. It's not aboutchanging things and bringing a spark back. Most designers will tell you the top three things that men and women want. 1. Look 2. Feel 3. Cut.... And Armani makes the most amazing looking, feeling and fitting suits. As far as Thom Browne, they look stupid, they may feel okay, and they are cut like everyone says, Pee-Wee hermanish. If anyone says that they don't look Dorky they arefibbing to themselves!Right now and pretty much always, Armani has made the best and most influential man's suit, period. Raf and Jil or both good. I don't wear suits much. I enjoy making womenswear because in my opinion menswear IS EASY! lol. I like the challenge. It is easy because when it boils down to it, the clothes have to be wearable, no matter who much of an artist you want to be. Then there has to be someone who wants to wear it. And the minute anyone on this forum can post a picture of them wearing a Thom Browne suit, believe me, I will find another job. I prefer old CDG too, but not Thom Browne. The point is, everyone is talking about his suits being short and NOTHING ELSE. Weak.



                            [/quote]



                            I should invite getsmart from styleforum. He's a japanese graphic designer (if I remember correctly) who's into the whole skinhead and rockabilly culture and owns a Tom Browne suit. He looks smashing in it and really don't get overwhelmed by the suit as it integrates perfectly with his own style, with the right part of 60s references and personal interpretation. It's easy to see Browne's shtick as shortening the pants but they don't even come that way when you got the suit. Browne's concept is to make a 60s style suit (thin lapels, often 2 buttons with long gorge-although Jason's suit is a 2 1/2 high gorge one, slim and tubular fit, patterned wool with a large place given to greys and brown, working buttonholes,shorter skirt, yes no break on trousers fits well with that ensemble but that doesn't mean you have to wear capris like Browne himself,etc.). I don't think that's the most original and innovative concept around but it's well executed and offers an interesting option when looking for a suit.

                            Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                            http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                            Comment

                            • nqth
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 350

                              #29
                              Re: Thom Browne

                              [quote user="nqth"]

                              It seems that his trousers are not that short in stores



                              from www.luisaviaroma.com



                              [/quote]



                              I should have looked at the shirt:-)) I am wondering if it is his, too.



                              EDIT: have you seen the film in TB's website? It is quite funny.Princeton's boys gone farmers and dyers and then back to their "brotherhood" wearing lacy shorts:-P

                              Comment

                              • threerepute
                                Member
                                • Sep 2006
                                • 39

                                #30
                                Re: Thom Browne

                                [quote user="nqth"]

                                It seems that his trousers are not that short in stores



                                from www.luisaviaroma.com







                                [/quote]





                                that rise is ridiculous. no thanks.

                                Comment

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