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  • cabl3
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2008
    • 196

    Originally posted by BeauIXI View Post
    Secondly, couldn't any designer call himself avant garde and just change his sizing around?
    That was exactly my point.

    And I do like some TB suits..but not that one...something's off (maybe the combination of the pattern on the fabric with the awkward execution of a double breast)...I need me that reversible CCP suit.
    "If you want to tell the truth, make them laugh, otherwise they'll kill you."
    - Wilde

    Comment

    • BECOMING-INTENSE
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2008
      • 1868

      Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
      As Derrida said "elaborate on this" is quite vague and a call for ready-made discourse. I don't disagree. Present a cogent point and I'll happily answer you.
      That's expected since deconstruction knows of no other
      field of meaning than the field of signification.

      Instead of elaborate I could have asked what is meant by,
      but this all a bit to self-conscious.
      Ideas and, important, the relation/connection between them
      is much more interesting.

      Vague or not, responses has been created.
      Are you afraid of women, Doctor?
      Of course.

      www.becomingmads.com

      Comment

      • BECOMING-INTENSE
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2008
        • 1868

        Originally posted by deleuze View Post
        I would never wear any Thom Browne myself but I do appreciate his runway shows which I think are the best manifestation of his vision. He seems like a fun guy who really enjoys what he does. His devotion to a particular lifestyle reflected both in his clothing and everyday life is quite similar to Rick Owens asceticism. Avante-garde is sort of a silly term but I do see his clothing as subversive much the same way Vivienne Westwood's used to be although Thom has a more playful sense of humor and his thinking doesn't have the same immediacy as Vivien's. It's a little unfair to reduce his vision to a gimmick like shrunken suits as they are more of an actualization or effect of a conceptual approach than something that stands alone in itself. His attention to detail and the construction of the garments also reinforce the fact that he does take his product seriously; he's not just a stylist interested in creating a new trend. Part of the problem is New York's desperate hunger for an American designer to put the U.S. back on the map. It is sort of disgusting hearing every student at Parsons or FIT uncritically bestow upon Thom Browne unnecessary superlatives; it's become sort of a secret handshake. So it doesn't surprise me that it is the NY members of this forum that are responsible for a lot of the backlash. I think things would be different if he was working out of a differenct city/country; Junya's project is similar and yet he doesn't leave the same rancid taste in people's mouths. I want to see him stick around and maybe this will force him to scale back a bit as it's now obvious that no matter how ubiquitous his name has become, sales of the "signature look" haven't been keeping pace. Maybe this will help him to further develop and refine his design. His last show was a good start.
        The highlighted part has been in my thoughts also, but I don't
        know if geography would help, look at Rick Owens. They
        both seem to to be caught in a self-conscious and deliberate
        performative "act" (this might be genuine, so contradiction
        might be more appropriate.)

        Now this could be said about many, "that he does take his
        product seriously" and that there is quality in his products,
        so could you tell me what else does Thom Browne do than
        shrinking an already established code of dressing? what is
        it he does beside subtracting that makes him subversive?
        Are you afraid of women, Doctor?
        Of course.

        www.becomingmads.com

        Comment

        • Casius
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2006
          • 4772

          From The Cut;
          Yesterday the New York Post reported that ankle man Thom Browne was thisclose to filing for bankruptcy, after demand for his flood pants dwindled dramatically in the wake of Wall Street's collapse. Today the designer tells WWD that things are as spiffy as one of his signature shrunken gray suits. He denied cash-flow problems and says he's not considering bankruptcy but would love to find a financial backer so he could further grow his business. However, he doesn't want to sell a majority stake and is being very careful about choosing the right partner.

          Though his eight-year-old business hasn't been immune to the retail slowdown, Bergdorf says Browne shipped his spring line on time. Also, after his fantastic show in Florence a couple of months ago, Browne says he picked up ten new stores in Europe and Japan. The designer added that wholesale business as of January was up 117 percent. And here we were worrying that short pants had fallen out of favor in this economy. When things get better soon, like they say it will, Browne can sell even more flood pants. Bare ankles forever! We suppose this marks the end of our short-lived Save Thom Browne campaign. So we'll turn to our next cause: Project Man Skirt, You Know You Want One.
          "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            Right. What else is he supposed to say? It's fashion, smile and carry on - fucked or not...
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              Originally posted by Faust View Post
              love TB for only one reason - he inevitably gets an SZ-style discussion going.
              self-quote
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                Thought this was pretty hilarious.
                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  Originally posted by deleuze View Post
                  I would never wear any Thom Browne myself but I do appreciate his runway shows which I think are the best manifestation of his vision. He seems like a fun guy who really enjoys what he does. His devotion to a particular lifestyle reflected both in his clothing and everyday life is quite similar to Rick Owens asceticism. Avante-garde is sort of a silly term but I do see his clothing as subversive much the same way Vivienne Westwood's used to be although Thom has a more playful sense of humor and his thinking doesn't have the same immediacy as Vivien's. It's a little unfair to reduce his vision to a gimmick like shrunken suits as they are more of an actualization or effect of a conceptual approach than something that stands alone in itself. His attention to detail and the construction of the garments also reinforce the fact that he does take his product seriously; he's not just a stylist interested in creating a new trend. Part of the problem is New York's desperate hunger for an American designer to put the U.S. back on the map. It is sort of disgusting hearing every student at Parsons or FIT uncritically bestow upon Thom Browne unnecessary superlatives; it's become sort of a secret handshake. So it doesn't surprise me that it is the NY members of this forum that are responsible for a lot of the backlash. I think things would be different if he was working out of a differenct city/country; Junya's project is similar and yet he doesn't leave the same rancid taste in people's mouths. I want to see him stick around and maybe this will force him to scale back a bit as it's now obvious that no matter how ubiquitous his name has become, sales of the "signature look" haven't been keeping pace. Maybe this will help him to further develop and refine his design. His last show was a good start.
                  Right on about America trying to push their own, DESPERATELY. We have nothing, I mean - NOTHING - compared to what Europe and Japan can offer. As for the rest of your post - sorry, I think it's bullshit, but you already knew I'd say this. I'm with B-I on this. And, you know, maybe it's not the small ones that are going out of business, but the ones with least substance and talent. When times were great, we could afford this silliness, but when the world sobers up.... Anyway, this is all speculation until we know for sure.
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • Magician
                    Senior Member
                    • Jul 2008
                    • 709

                    Originally posted by Faust View Post
                    Thought this was pretty hilarious.
                    I love reading Auslander. I just finished his memoir about growing up in an ultra-orthodox community: "A Foreskin's Lament"
                    Selling badass McQueen topcoat 48/38/M. I also write and tweet.

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      /\ Me too. Meeting him next week.
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • zamb
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 5834

                        Originally posted by Faust View Post
                        Right on about America trying to push their own, DESPERATELY. We have nothing, I mean - NOTHING - compared to what Europe and Japan can offer. As for the rest of your post - sorry, I think it's bullshit, but you already knew I'd say this. I'm with B-I on this. And, you know, maybe it's not the small ones that are going out of business, but the ones with least substance and talent. When times were great, we could afford this silliness, but when the world sobers up.... Anyway, this is all speculation until we know for sure.
                        Is it that we have nothing, or we want nothing, we want something within a certain mould, and if it comes in an unorthodox package, or through a means we are not willing to accept them we reject it. Ive seen many designers, gifted and strong, but left by the wayside for a myriad of reasons, mostly having nothing to do with talent........
                        “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                        .................................................. .......................


                        Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37852

                          I don't know, Zam. Maybe we just don't have the climate that fosters creativity. Where is our own McQueen? Chalayan? Yamamoto? Watanabe? Demeulemeester?
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • zamb
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 5834

                            Originally posted by Faust View Post
                            I don't know, Zam. Maybe we just don't have the climate that fosters creativity. Where is our own McQueen? Chalayan? Yamamoto? Watanabe? Demeulemeester?
                            Well as I said, we dont have them because maybe we dont want them, I think a design team like AsFour was doing some things that if allowed to progress and supported in the right way, could have been seen in the vein of Chalyan or Watanabe, but they were treated as some kind of circus act here, while there counterparts in Europe were lauded for what they do. I have a Belgian friend living in brooklyn who does a line called MelenStel, earlier in her career, she was doing things in the vien of a AnnD, van Noten hybrid, now shes just doing basic dresses to survive.
                            We had the Bruce Girls,
                            We had Tess Giberson,
                            We had ORFI,
                            We had Seth Shapiro,
                            Liz Collins,
                            Gary Graham,
                            We had RonandRon,
                            Patricia Ayres
                            Mark Kroeker,
                            Morteza Saifi,
                            and a ton of other Labels that I could name........and iv'e only selected names I thought really had potential to be good.
                            Now it seems the main route to becoming a designer is to have rich parents, go to parsons school of design and wait for someone to appoint you as the next big thing. I am shocked by the level of (lack of) talent that the people I see being lauded the last few seasons seem to have. I personally closed my business not because i didnt have the financial means to continue at the level where i was, but because i didnt have the 60-70 grand a season to pay for PR and showroom, which means a whole lot of fakeness and ass kissing which I am not particularly good at, nor willing to master the art of.
                            When i open again, i will be doing retail, so that i can deal with the customer directly, and not be concerned with some of the nonesense that has nothing to do with the business of fashion
                            Last edited by zamb; 03-29-2009, 06:19 PM.
                            “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                            .................................................. .......................


                            Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                            Comment

                            • zamb
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2006
                              • 5834

                              Also Faust, we should remember that Cloak was here, and was allowed to fail, which at its best was a very good alternative to Dior Homme in the Slimane era. One has to wonder if Rick owens would have survived if he has stayed here in America...........
                              Last edited by zamb; 03-29-2009, 06:20 PM.
                              “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                              .................................................. .......................


                              Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                              Comment

                              • Jon
                                Senior Member
                                • Apr 2008
                                • 677

                                As a designer you can't rely on selling in N America. Too dispersed, too few shops, too small of a market. You can't produce here because it's expensive and hard to produce at the same quality as Japan or Europe. Shops in Europe and Japan then have to pay customs and shipping on goods. By the time you get around to marking the stock up to retail the price has ballooned to an astronomical level compared to European and Japanese designers. As a talented designer creating something that's not meant to be mass-consumed it's just not worth it to produce in N America and that has nothing to do with talent...
                                Originally posted by merz
                                perhaps one day pipcleo will post a wywt so non-euclydian & eldrich in its shapes as to turn all onlookers into throngs of dishevelled, muttering idiots

                                Comment

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