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Thread: Thom Browne

  1. #41

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    Very well said, macuser. I really appreciate that Thom provokes such divergent opinions!



    If you guys haven't seen this yet, it's worth checking out. Goicolea and Thom fit together perfectly, imo. Very cool! [H]



    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  2. #42

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    Thom Browne, the man, photographed by the Sartorialist.





    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  3. #43

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    Chinoriz, as a Carol devotee you ought to be able to tell from the bunching around the crotch area in Laika's photo: the man has overlocked his underpants. Respect where it's due please.

  4. #44
    Senior Member Casius's Avatar
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    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="dontbecruel"]Chinoriz, as a Carol devotee you ought to be able to tell from the bunching around the crotch area in Laika's photo: the man has overlocked his underpants. Respect where it's due please.
    [/quote]

    Wait, you mean serge?
    "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

  5. #45

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    [quote user="dontbecruel"]Chinoriz, as a Carol devotee you ought to be able to tell from the bunching around the crotch area in Laika's photo: the man has overlocked his underpants. Respect where it's due please.
    [/quote]





    Hahaha, you're right.




    The odd thing about the Thom Browne "look" is that I don't really mind it on Thom. It's just not a look that translates well into the masses. Although his short jacket makes his belly/torso area look really condensed in Laika's photo. I've seen him in better looks but it works for him.




    I think the Thom look lends to very minimal personal re-interpretation so you're kind of stuck with a look that's Thom. Of course I am viewing all of Thom's creations from a non-businessman/9 to 5 suit-wearing worker point of view. In an environment where you have to wear business suits, I can see the allure of Thom's (and others) designs, but given the wider scope of wearing what you please, that allure fades quickly.




    On that note... if Gustavolins made a suit (do they?), I'd bet it would be a helluva suit!

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  6. #46

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="Chinorlz"]


    On that note... if Gustavolins made a suit (do they?), I'd bet it would be a helluva suit!

    [/quote]

    a nice suit indeed. this is the "dinner suit" from Collection 008 by Gustavo Lins. i would take this over the Thom Browne look...


  7. #47
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Thom Browne

    In 5 years noone will hear of this guy. He'll probably get a cushy job at Donna Karan or such, and that will be the end. It started as a gimmick and it will end as a gimmick. Clay, the fact that he is "influencing" people does not mean much to me - he can influence them as long as Anna Wintour keeps him as one of her pets. Every intelligent journalist I've red so far (Cathy Horyn, Guy Trebay) dismissed this guy as a bad joke. Not on a sartorial note, but I also think that putting "h" and "e" in Thom and Browne is beyond pathetic.
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  8. #48

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    That suit is absolutely beautiful. I'd love to see the top buttoned though so the structure of the jacket will become more evident... but if the detailing is anything like the Lins pieces we've seen on here and in person before it's gotta be out of this world.... so is the price I gather? $4-5k?
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  9. #49

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    I guess I feel the label is too easily dismissed. It is very directional (which I like), it's also excessively well-made and practical-yet-odd, and no-oneelse, for better or worse, is doing this kind of stuff. In a way I see it as an office-equivalent to Helmut's older casual work. Screw the journalists, who cares what they say. :p

  10. #50

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="laika"]


    Very well said, macuser. I really appreciate that Thom provokes such divergent opinions!




    If you guys haven't seen this yet, it's worth checking out. Goicolea and Thom fit together perfectly, imo. Very cool! [H]





    [/quote]





    I think the video that you posted pretty much sums it up for him laika,




    He had baptized himself into a tradition and a style of dressing /tailoring that is dead.




    the video is a really nice video, and pretty much sums up (or at least give an idea) of many of the things that inspires his work. but it also "suggest" that the kind of culture that makes his work relevant is dead (if it ever at all existed!)




    you can see from the structure and and construction of the work that the quality is very good, the problem is that such qualty should transcend and not be beholden to the kind of look that he has "married" it to and seems to refuse to "divorce" it from

    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


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  11. #51

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    Quote Originally Posted by laika

    Very well said, macuser. I really appreciate that Thom provokes such divergent opinions!

    If you guys haven't seen this yet, it's worth checking out. Goicolea and Thom fit together perfectly, imo. Very cool! [H]

    I think this particular collection was Thom's strongest that's been presented so far, and the boys in this video flatter the clothing far more than the more muscular fellow who was presented on men.style and elsewhere.



    I've said elsewhere that I often fail to appreciate Thom's aesthetic, but something about this video really made it more clear to me. If I had to choose between spending $5,000 on either SZ darling CCP or Thom Browne, to be perfectly honest I think I might go with Thom. The suiting here looks absolutely immaculate and I happen to like mine to lean a little more "proper" than the "dystopian" that CCP tends to represent, but they both seem to offer a fairly twisted version of their purported niches. That's an off-the-cuff decision that I may retract in future with more thinking, but I'm willing to stand by it at the moment, and which may be entirely influenced by the fact that I really need a nice suit.


  12. #52
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    Default Re: Thom Browne



    Whydo you guys hate this guy so much? He is doing sth different, sth not very "correct" and "serious" in American menswear, and receives a lot of press supports. It's very American way of doing bussiness, the "big", "new", "very american" in the press, no? If he worked in Europe, nobody would probably has noticed him.




    Is it good now for him, to receive such attentions? Yes. What when the press darlings will be gone? Who cares. If he is good enough, he will make it. Maybe in his niche market, maybe he will break it into sth bigger. Let's him enjoy his moment:-)




    It's very difficult to turn sth wierd and bad taste into "it" thing. He clearly made it.



  13. #53

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    Who's hating? [^o)]



    I'm with Servo (love what you said about the proper vs. the dystopian [Y]). Whenever I see this stuff in person; or worn en masse, as in the video, I find it totally amazing. If it weren't going to be so damn expensive, I would be after a jacket from the women's line myself.



    Servo, do you like Anthony Goicolea?

    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  14. #54

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    [quote user="dontbecruel"]Chinoriz, as a Carol devotee you ought to be able to tell from the bunching around the crotch area in Laika's photo: the man has overlocked his underpants. Respect where it's due please.
    [/quote]





    Hilarious as usual, dbc. What do you think of Thom Browne?

    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  15. #55

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    Yeah I'm not sure either. I think it's something to do with the kind of people who like it as much as the product itself. The product is really not so bad! Now, some of his runway stuff is laughable, and indeed is very bad, but his basics, although very expensive, are quite interesting if you ask me.I don't think I wouldwear one of his suits - i.e. do thewhole look - but maybe a jacket, maybe a pair of trousers, certanly his shoes (which are incredible buy eye-wateringly expensive) and mostcertainly his shirts. This is not becuase I wear suits generally to work since you really couldn't wear one of those to work. It is a bit gimmicky, but no more so than say a jumper with built in gloves, or a tee shirt you have to cut up yourself, or banana legged trousers or shoes you have to cut out of a flat bit of rubber. One man's gimmick is another's genious design quirk. Have to admit though thatthe short trouser thing annoys me.

  16. #56
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    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="laika"]


    Who's hating? [^o)]




    [/quote]




    I mean some of you:-)


  17. #57

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    I have been away for
    while (out west and away from computers), so I am just starting to catch up
    with the discussions going on, so forgive me if this has been raised before...

    It is an interesting
    discussion, and it definitely seems like it raises some strong opinions. What I
    am most interested by Thom Browne, is the cultural aesthetic that he is after.
    I'll admit that I am not a fan, but it seems to go further than that.

    The video that Laika
    posted really bothered me and I took me a while to figure out why. I think it
    was, overproduced, immaculate/pretentious, mildly culturally racist
    (all white cast), engaged in a shorthand symbolic references to
    "authentic" spiritual experiences (the baptism, wtf?) , safe and homogenous
    (it only looks good on thin, boring-looking, young men), and trying to present
    a look and feeling of false naivety and innocence. I know that is a lot to say
    for a silly fashion video... :)

    But I am sick of perfectly
    coiffed, white, pretty and empty men, trying to look like serious innocent
    men/children from an imagined (far more nobler) past, and clothing that encourages
    this mentality. Do other people on the SZ have an opinion on how clothing fits
    the zeitgeist of the contemporary times (no pun intended)? For me, I am
    bothered that so much youth culture and design seems to be interested in the
    fantasy of innocence and naivety, especially at this contemporary moment (a war
    in Iraq, huge political corruption, split between rich and poor is getting more
    extreme). Shouldn't clothing have an active language, what I loved about CDG
    (back in the day) was that it seemed active--that deconstruction was so much
    part of our experience and life in the 90s. Browne's work seems an escape from
    an realities into a dream world that only certain people are permitted to
    self-select into.





  18. #58

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    [quote user="Johnny"]Yeah I'm not sure either. I think it's something to do with the kind of people who like it as much as the product itself. The product is really not so bad! Now, some of his runway stuff is laughable, and indeed is very bad, but his basics, although very expensive, are quite interesting if you ask me.I don't think I wouldwear one of his suits - i.e. do thewhole look - but maybe a jacket, maybe a pair of trousers, certanly his shoes (which are incredible buy eye-wateringly expensive) and mostcertainly his shirts. This is not becuase I wear suits generally to work since you really couldn't wear one of those to work. It is a bit gimmicky, but no more so than say a jumper with built in gloves, or a tee shirt you have to cut up yourself, or banana legged trousers or shoes you have to cut out of a flat bit of rubber. One man's gimmick is another's genious design quirk. Have to admit though thatthe short trouser thing annoys me. [/quote]





    Good news for those who like TB shoes: a couple of very knowledgeable styleforum members identified Thom's maker as Trickers so, while you may not get this particular model, you can get very similar one of the exactsame quality for 25% of the price (TB has quite the markup at $1250).

    Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
    http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

  19. #59

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    [quote user="Johnny"]Yeah I'm not sure either. I think it's something to do with the kind of people who like it as much as the product itself. The product is really not so bad! Now, some of his runway stuff is laughable, and indeed is very bad, but his basics, although very expensive, are quite interesting if you ask me.I don't think I wouldwear one of his suits - i.e. do thewhole look - but maybe a jacket, maybe a pair of trousers, certanly his shoes (which are incredible buy eye-wateringly expensive) and mostcertainly his shirts. This is not becuase I wear suits generally to work since you really couldn't wear one of those to work. It is a bit gimmicky, but no more so than say a jumper with built in gloves, or a tee shirt you have to cut up yourself, or banana legged trousers or shoes you have to cut out of a flat bit of rubber. One man's gimmick is another's genious design quirk. Have to admit though thatthe short trouser thing annoys me.[/quote]



    I think people are a little too concentrated on the short trouser / jacket thing. This isn't specifically a "Thom Browne" thing, I believe it's generally considered to be a quirk of "trad" suiting in general. In his runway shows, like most designers, Brown plays with taking it to it's logical extreme. In reality, not all of his customers wear them like this, or may not go to the extreme that his clothing does in his presentations. For instance, these other images from The Sartorialist:





    None of these are patently outlandish, and yet again, they're gorgeous suits. These are perhaps leaning a little more on the conservative side then I would like, but then again, I'm a fairly conservative dresser. I would rather go out like this than in CCP boots and jacket over an LUC knit with Raf pants, as much as I would like to say that's something I could do. I simply wouldn't be comfortable.



    I wish I could find the image of the fellow who works at the Thom Brown boutique whose wearing a fully "Thom Brown" esque suit and it was pretty interesting.





  20. #60
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Default Re: Thom Browne



    Thank you, Seventh. That was well said, and yes, I, too, am sick of men-children. That video, talk about a dystopia. It made me recall the culture of the English public (that's private to us) schools with their fake machismo values, as described by Robert Graves and George Orwell.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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