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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #31
    Re: Thom Browne



    Ladies, rejoice - you too, could look like hobbits!

    Thom Browne Doing Capsule Women?s Collection




    Tuesday, July 24, 2007







    By Marc Karimzadeh






    NEW YORK ?
    Since launching his label in 2001, Thom Browne has been quietly
    custom-making pieces for women from his Meatpacking District atelier
    here. Now the men's wear designer is making a serious run at women's
    ready-to-wear.




    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • zamb
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2006
      • 5834

      #32
      Re: Thom Browne

      [quote user="Faust"]

      Ladies, rejoice - you too, could look like hobbits!

      Thom Browne Doing Capsule Women?s Collection




      Tuesday, July 24, 2007







      By Marc Karimzadeh






      NEW YORK ?
      Since launching his label in 2001, Thom Browne has been quietly
      custom-making pieces for women from his Meatpacking District atelier
      here. Now the men's wear designer is making a serious run at women's
      ready-to-wear.


      [65][65][65], I about to keel over right now!!!!!!!



      [/quote]
      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
      .................................................. .......................


      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

      Comment

      • zamb
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2006
        • 5834

        #33
        Re: Thom Browne

        [quote user="threerepute"][quote user="nqth"]

        It seems that his trousers are not that short in stores



        from www.luisaviaroma.com







        [/quote]





        that rise is ridiculous. no thanks.



        [/quote]





        It would be nice to build an elastic Girdle (with hook'n'eye under the zipper under the front of this pants to slim your gut down when you are 55



        [65][65]

        “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
        .................................................. .......................


        Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

        Comment

        • Incroyable
          Member
          • Mar 2007
          • 38

          #34
          Re: Thom Browne

          [quote user="clay"]

          Wow....... I know many people bust his chops but you gotta give it to him. He really has helped the boring mens suit business. I design mens and womens and there really has been a resurgence in interest for suits and I benefit from that. I think Thoms proportions are too extreme, but after years of wearing my pants way too long and snubbing english style shorter inseams, I must say I find I like a slightly shorter pant with a nice substantial classic shoe or boot. I actually really prefer the CDG way back in the 80's with the longer jacket, shorter inseam and nice shoe or boot( there is a great photo of that look in A History Of Menswear).Also I must add it is harder imo to do menswear and suits especially because we only have pant, jacket, coat, vest. The goal is to reach an audience and just maybe pay our rent with our interpretations. And I do mean interpret cause the components have not changed for hundreds of years. Women of course have more options. I think what makes CCP , RO, and many of the designers featured on this sight so exciting is that they come up with new and not so new ways to interpret the basics we are stuck with and they do it beautifully. Do you like Raf at Jil Sander? I do as equally as I like CCP.These guys make us think. Now I cant say that for Armani ( anymore I must add).I swear I thought his little suit odd at first but when you see real people in them, not as extreme as his own, it looks pretty darn suave and cool.[/quote]



          Men's suitings done well has never been boring. If, however, you are taking cues from the conventions of the middle-market Protestant mentality of the average American male, then certainly shapeless suits, cheap shoes and unattractive ties are indicative of an overall dullness.



          Yet, classical clothes has always had its avatars of style--from the highly fitted military tailors of Britain's Savile Row to the elegant simplicity of Naples. A well done boutonniere always elevates a good suit as does a fine hat.




          Inasmuch as Browne is concerned, people may herald his "avant-garde" take on men's sartorialism, but in all likelihood, his influence is not going to be felt in mass-markets where stilted conformity reigns.

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #35
            Re: Thom Browne

            /\ Amen. Actually, I don't think it will last in any circles.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • Chinorlz
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 6422

              #36
              Re: Thom Browne



              Whilst looking at the waywt section of tFS I came across this guy:







              Everything is Thom Browne




              Everything is horrific... and so is the pairing/look. Utter waste of literally a number of thousand of dollars.




              Another example of how money will not buy you personal style.

              www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

              Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

              Comment

              • laika
                moderator
                • Sep 2006
                • 3787

                #37
                Re: Thom Browne



                Ah yes....that is one of Mr. Browne's number one fans, I believe.



                While it may not be to your taste, don't you think it's a bit extreme to call it objectively horrific? [*-)] The colors are well put together and the individual pieces are, of course, of exceptional quality. The garments fit him exactly as they are supposed to. And we can hardly criticize him for spending "thousands" now, can we? I've seen many a multi-thousand dollar CCP outfit on this board, after all.



                I do have to wonder though, what TB's customers--who are spending TONS of money to get this look--are going to do with their suiting when the trend blows over. I remain unconvinced that Thom Browne represents a real revolution in how menswear is tailored, which makes me think that investing too much money in this look is unwise.





                ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                Comment

                • clay
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 284

                  #38
                  Re: Thom Browne



                  I don't know man. His influence is felt big time now in current mens fashion. Now don't get me wrong, it's not like he revolutionized anything, like Armani. But lets face it, he's influencing many. The mass market is not what anybody here cares about. A clear point of view presented by a designer
                  is what we are really discussing. He has one. Good for him.



                  Cheers!

                  Comment

                  • Chinorlz
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 6422

                    #39
                    Re: Thom Browne

                    [quote user="laika"]


                    Ah yes....that is one of Mr. Browne's number one fans, I believe.




                    While it may not be to your taste, don't you think it's a bit extreme to call it objectively horrific? [*-)] The colors are well put together and the individual pieces are, of course, of exceptional quality. The garments fit him exactly as they are supposed to. And we can hardly criticize him for spending "thousands" now, can we? I've seen many a multi-thousand dollar CCP outfit on this board, after all.




                    I do have to wonder though, what TB's customers--who are spending TONS of money to get this look--are going to do with their suiting when the trend blows over. I remain unconvinced that Thom Browne represents a real revolution in how menswear is tailored, which makes me think that investing too much money in this look is unwise.




                    [/quote]





                    Laika, I'd say it was subjectively horrific. I can't speak for everyone :)




                    The quality of each Thom piece is unquestionable. The fabrics are well chosen and the construction of each piece is meticulous. That being said, the designs are lackluster. Thom Browne is too much of a gimmick rather than an actual style or as you have put it a change in the tailoring paradigm.




                    I don't think the colors of this outfit are paired well at all. Blue/white contrast stitching with gray pants and brown shoes with a button down collar and a gray tie just does not look aesthetically put together.




                    It's not a matter of the actual act of spending thousands, but what you get from it. In theory one can spend thousands on jewel encrused Billionaire Boys Club, Gianfranco Ferre etc., but will it look professional, clean, put together? Probably not.




                    My opinion of Thom Browne is low. Very low. He's done nothing to make me awestruck about his work at all and I personally think he somehow got really lucky and big stores picked up his stuff. This short inseam, short sleeve trend will fail.




                    In a way (less severely so) I compare it to these high end "banker" suit brands such as Kiton and Brioni. $4-5k on a suit sure... maybe it's made from Super 300s, super 500s wool, pure cashmere etc. and it may be made so well with perfect seams and everything, but in the end it still looks like an old man suit. Nothing can change that.




                    I just like stuff more interesting. Even if it evokes criticism, even if I don't like it because of unwearability or whatnot, I like it when designers actually TRY.




                    In the end, when I look at the photos people post on here from the various designers (so many of which are relatively unheard of... some for good reason, others it's a damn travesty that they aren't more well known) I ask myself, "what makes this design/designer special?" If the answer is something decent then it's a boon to the fashion community.

                    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                    Comment

                    • macuser3of5
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 276

                      #40
                      Re: Thom Browne

                      Thom will never be the next Armani, and that's fine by me, and I would say Thom is playing a very tough game. It's one thing to ignore stodgy, classic menswear altogether, but to run full-steam into classic Americana, chock-full of conservativism and tradition, and mostly flip it upside-down while still playing by the same pallette, that's a pretty hard sell. I do like the subtely of Thom's work, like the jackets with contrast grosgrain piping at almost every spot, or the jackets lined in athletic mesh.

                      From an artistic standpoint, I think it works very well, the inertia is in the idea of the thing; it's weird & fetishistic, but simultaneously remains functional. Object deconstruction is overrated to me, I would rather a garment play safe, albeit in an abberrant way. I don't want to be knocked over the head with an idea of things. I honestly get more enjoyment out of this than CCP or Carpe, perhaps even Jil Sander.

                      I will also say the cropped trouser look is nothing new, nor did Thom Browne every say it was, either.

                      Comment

                      • laika
                        moderator
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 3787

                        #41
                        Re: Thom Browne



                        Very well said, macuser. I really appreciate that Thom provokes such divergent opinions!



                        If you guys haven't seen this yet, it's worth checking out. Goicolea and Thom fit together perfectly, imo. Very cool! [H]



                        ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                        Comment

                        • laika
                          moderator
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 3787

                          #42
                          Re: Thom Browne



                          Thom Browne, the man, photographed by the Sartorialist.





                          ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                          Comment

                          • dontbecruel
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 494

                            #43
                            Re: Thom Browne

                            Chinoriz, as a Carol devotee you ought to be able to tell from the bunching around the crotch area in Laika's photo: the man has overlocked his underpants. Respect where it's due please.

                            Comment

                            • Casius
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2006
                              • 4772

                              #44
                              Re: Thom Browne

                              [quote user="dontbecruel"]Chinoriz, as a Carol devotee you ought to be able to tell from the bunching around the crotch area in Laika's photo: the man has overlocked his underpants. Respect where it's due please.
                              [/quote]

                              Wait, you mean serge?
                              "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

                              Comment

                              • Chinorlz
                                Senior Member
                                • Sep 2006
                                • 6422

                                #45
                                Re: Thom Browne



                                [quote user="dontbecruel"]Chinoriz, as a Carol devotee you ought to be able to tell from the bunching around the crotch area in Laika's photo: the man has overlocked his underpants. Respect where it's due please.
                                [/quote]





                                Hahaha, you're right.




                                The odd thing about the Thom Browne "look" is that I don't really mind it on Thom. It's just not a look that translates well into the masses. Although his short jacket makes his belly/torso area look really condensed in Laika's photo. I've seen him in better looks but it works for him.




                                I think the Thom look lends to very minimal personal re-interpretation so you're kind of stuck with a look that's Thom. Of course I am viewing all of Thom's creations from a non-businessman/9 to 5 suit-wearing worker point of view. In an environment where you have to wear business suits, I can see the allure of Thom's (and others) designs, but given the wider scope of wearing what you please, that allure fades quickly.




                                On that note... if Gustavolins made a suit (do they?), I'd bet it would be a helluva suit!

                                www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                                Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                                Comment

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