Men's Fragrances

[Dane]

^anal glands of civet traditionally right?

Yes...I was trying to spare some of the gory detail. ;)

They cut the gland from the cat...it looks like a weird, furry ball that contains a paste that the cat uses to attract sexual mates. It smells incredibly feral and fecal, yet when in dilution, can have an almost floral quality. It was used to great affect in things like Guerlain's Jicky and, more recently, TDC's Rose Poivree and, as mentioned, MKK. I have a small bottle at home and it has to be triple sealed so as to not upset the dog.

[Dane]

^ a coffee bean is still one ingredient though, regardless of how many compounds create it. Unless one has quite the knowledge of science, a coffee bean can only be manipulated so much. A perfume composition, on the other hand, is just that...a combination of aromatic molecules manipulated by the artist. Each ingredient they include contains multiple components, making the task that much harder.

[aussy]

rliu's response inspired me to look up other animal sourced perfume ingredients
hyraceum wtf, only knew of musk and ambergis before
wonder how these scents were discovered and then came to be desired

[Dane]

^ it actually smells kinda nice.

The popular ones (in the past) have been castoreum (beaver gland), musk, ambergris (whale puke), civet, and beeswax/honey.

Lately they've been synthesizing lots of strange things - bacon, fish, caviar, hair, etc.

[endersgame]

any thoughts on escentric molecule 01?
took a whiff and it felt so right..

[t-bone]

Since we're talking about these animal scents I'll quote this MBD post that has been haunting my dreams lately. Since I started messing with doing my own extractions and buying oils from the Attar shop nearby, I've been obsessing over buying some extracts and the animal kit from this place. I've been told that the actual extracts are illegal for perfumers to use, not sure about the legality of selling them individually, maybe Italy doesn't care.

A "nose" and genuine eccentric. A rare perfumer, one of a handful who use only natural ingredients, he is a French convert to Sufiism who goes by the nom-de-perfume "Abdes SalaamAttar."

Read about this fascinating man here. If you are thusly inspired, you can also buy a beginners perfume kit with tinctures of the animal scents that make up traditional perfumery: honey beeswax, ambergris, castoreum, civet, and hyraceum.

MBD

[Dane]

any thoughts on escentric molecule 01?
took a whiff and it felt so right..

We've probably discussed this before...it's one molecule called Iso E Super. A bottle would cost you $5 and you could dilute it to make 100 bottles. Waste. Of. Money.

If you favor the ingredient, check out:

1. Encre Noir by Lalique
2. Poivre Samarcande by Hermes
3. Declaration by Cartier
4. Anything by Ormonde Jayne

Since we're talking about these animal scents I'll quote this MBD post that has been haunting my dreams lately. Since I started messing with doing my own extractions and buying oils from the Attar shop nearby, I've been obsessing over buying some extracts and the animal kit from this place. I've been told that the actual extracts are illegal for perfumers to use, not sure about the legality of selling them individually, maybe Italy doesn't care.

Be cautious of what you buy...it's often not the real thing. Apparently this guy's are:

http://profumo.it/

...but I can't vouch for it personally.

[mrbeuys]

any thoughts on escentric molecule 01?
took a whiff and it felt so right..

I use it only on my hair. Lots of aldehydes afaik and a good story around it. An old acquaintance of mine actually created the brand.

I like it but I don't think it's that we'll respected among proper perfumers. Correct me Dane.

Edit: never mind. You were faster. And precise.

[Dane]

I use it only on my hair. Lots of aldehydes afaik and a good story around it. An old acquaintance of mine actually created the brand.

I like it but I don't think it's that we'll respected among proper perfumers. Correct me Dane.

Edit: never mind. You were faster. And precise.

Molecule 01 only has Iso E Super. Escentric 01 has 65%, plus a few other ingredients...they also have a few other scents focusing on other solo and almost-solo ingredients (confusing naming).

And correct, not much appreciation for the brand in the perfume community...at least from me.

[endersgame]

thanks for the tip on Iso E Super. i knew it had just one molecule, but if i had to buy it raw, what do i cut it with and how much do i cut?

never mixed scents before so apologize for the noob q's.

[Dane]

thanks for the tip on Iso E Super. i knew it had just one molecule, but if i had to buy it raw, what do i cut it with and how much do i cut?

never mixed scents before so apologize for the noob q's.

You can buy here:

http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-6120-iso-e-super.aspx

You'd mix it with:

http://www.saveonscents.com/product_info.php/products_id/202435

You'd mix it at 10%, so whatever amount of IES you buy will create 10 times as much end-product.

You'd literally add IES to the alcohol, stir, let mature for a few weeks, then spray.

Disclaimer - I don't know for a fact that Molecule 01 only contains the one ingredient, but it sure does smell like it. I also don't know at which percentage they dilute. Molecules like this also create nose-fatigue, meaning you smell one minute, then nothing the next, then it comes back. Also, don't smell it at 100% concentration, this could in essence (ha!) be dangerous.

[t-bone]

Be cautious of what you buy...it's often not the real thing. Apparently this guy's are:

http://profumo.it/

...but I can't vouch for it personally.

Yeah thats the same guy linked in MBD's post that I was talking about. He seems like a real nutjob, in the best possible way.

[Dane]

Yeah thats the same guy linked in MBD's post that I was talking about. He seems like a real nutjob, in the best possible way.

He very much is (apparently...I've not met him...but they again, I'm a bit of a nut job too...), but also very trustworthy as far as what he's selling.

[thehouseofdis]

I've just about gone through my bottle of Ulrich Lang's Nightscape and while I like it and have received compliments on it, I may try something new. The only other scent I've liked enough to use up a whole bottle was CdG "Dry Clean", though I've liked and worn a lot of the CdG scents over the years (Palisander, 3, original, Shiso, Odeur 53).

I'm thinking something smokey and leather that's not too masculine. Anyone have recommendations?

[Dane]

^^ Le Labo Patchouli 24.