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Aitor Throup

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  • stereophobic
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2009
    • 504

    ^ the stretch inserts remind me of a ball-jointed doll's legs when worn as fitted in the leg as ra13.be's photos. personally think it looks cool but agree with you on the issues with the silhouette as I wonder what someone would pair them with.

    can anyone perhaps explain that insole at the hem? I suppose you pull on the pants with your feet in them and then pop them up as you put on your shoes?
    An object in possession seldom retains the same charm that it had in pursuit.

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    • lowrey
      ventiundici
      • Dec 2006
      • 8383

      thats about right, there is a button that holds them up. again a quirky concept, but it just looks odd when worn with any type of shoes.
      "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

      STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

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      • snafu
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2008
        • 2135

        The member sagill1119 has a pair, i saw him wearing them at the layers preview opening: i was stunned at how mormal yet interesting they looked. Im not sure what pair he was wearing but maybe he just got them right in terms of style/size & his build. Either way i thought they looked good and i really thought id hate them in terms of something so designed actually being worn. Even the soles at the bottom of the trousers didn't look awkward.
        .

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        • Icarium
          Senior Member
          • Oct 2010
          • 380

          Hadn't been to Darklands website in awhile. The altor pants they have are pretty amazing... well the first two anyway. Less a fan of the third.

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          • ahlefeldt
            Senior Member
            • May 2008
            • 621



            "Sportswear veterans Umbro are set to present a capsule collection designed by Aitor Throup at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy next year. The project is a retrospective of Umbro’s last 50 years in footwear apparel and is entitled “Archive Research Project” (A.R.P.). The celebrated conceptual designer will of course draw inspiration from Umbro football garments and is set to produce an innovative tailored range that emulates Umbro’s rich history."

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            • Chinorlz
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 6422

              Man... is Aitor perpetually going to be working under sportswear companies/Stone Island?

              He's got such great ideas and concepts. I wish he could/would put out a more definitive and complete collection under his own name.
              www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

              Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

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              • SHYE_POSER
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2009
                • 1143

                Rest assured, there shall be an announcement from Aitors studio in the coming months. As he named the trouser collection PRELUDE...we can only wait and see how it is followed on....
                merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

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                • Chinorlz
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 6422

                  Originally posted by SHYE_POSER View Post
                  Rest assured, there shall be an announcement from Aitors studio in the coming months. As he named the trouser collection PRELUDE...we can only wait and see how it is followed on....
                  Sweet!!!
                  www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                  Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                  Comment

                  • kunk75
                    Banned
                    • May 2008
                    • 3364

                    hrmm.when i play word association tailoring is not the answer to umbro...

                    Comment

                    • SHYE_POSER
                      Senior Member
                      • Mar 2009
                      • 1143

                      I remember Kim Jones( now cd of dunhill) was designing a line for umbro a few years ago. Still very sportswear orientated,but had some examples of tailoring within the collections. They have done the same at Fred Perry, expanding what was originally a tennis brand. Is now a multi faceted brand in itself. Raf collab for tailoring examples.
                      But i can see where you are coming from non the less.
                      merz: your look has all the grace of george michael at the tail end of a coke binge.

                      Comment

                      • Servo2000
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 2183

                        I've always like Kim Jones work. Still occasionally run a quick ebay search for the old kj x umbro stuff. I liked the new Dunhill collections but haven't seen them in person so can't really judge.
                        WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

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                        • kunk75
                          Banned
                          • May 2008
                          • 3364

                          i have some kj x umbro for the gym, but while stone island made some sense, this makes none to me. plenty of houses in need of a new face/vision/voice

                          Comment

                          • marco-von
                            Senior Member
                            • Feb 2009
                            • 133

                            he designed the england football team's away kit for umbro a couple of years back so might be a continuation of that.

                            also umbro is pure british sportswear so it makes sense for him to be involved(stone island also having a massive british cult following - especially in football) and i might be mistaken but i think umbro might of helped him out at the start of his career? shye might beable to confirm this.

                            Comment

                            • delirium
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2008
                              • 164

                              well, i can't wait to see the full collection.

                              interesting that there's such conflicting opinions.
                              i didn't really find the trousers to be over-designed at all. it takes a close examination to see the amount of details.

                              i guess in a way they do have a street / military wear feel to them, so maybe that's it.

                              Comment

                              • zamb
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2006
                                • 5834

                                Originally posted by merz
                                don't think the trousers are at all over-designed. the real problem with them is the same one encountered by carol with dis-jointed - any time you have anatomical references with articulation in a garment, the garment will only fit certain body types in accordance with its original concept. unfortunately very few people i've seen tackle aitor's ready-to-wear garments, models included, have done them any justice thus far.

                                but when the wearer is of appropriate dimensions, they're some of the most compelling things i've ever seen worn. i'd probably figure out some way of paying retail for a pair of these, if they fit me as they appear in the image:


                                This is partly true.
                                but that's because many of the RTW designers who do it, fail to take the approach to its ultimate possibility.
                                when I worked in military design, the anatomical garments we made, had to have the ability to adjust to varying body-types.

                                I remember we created a pant, that knee pads, and the pads were made to be removable, so that the wearer could decide if he wanted them or not, also there was a channel created through the thigh of the pants up to the waist, where the wearer could adjust the length of the pant leg, to affix the pads exactly on his knees as was comfortable to him...........

                                I think the fundamental difference is that in RTW, these things are done more so for conceptual and visual appeal rather than for performance purposes......... in which case no one dies if the stuff doesn't perform, in military design it had better perform!
                                “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                                .................................................. .......................


                                Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

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