Aitor Throup

[cjbreed]

does anyone find this supposed practically functional character of his clothing to be a bit over the top?.....

yes

i appreciate his stuff aesthetically but I have almost found most pants to be comfortable and there is plenty of good technical clothing out there so this whole perfection of clothes to perfectly fit the human form seems a little precious at best

yep.
and i gotta say that much of the muscle/joint detailing doesn't really line up all that well and doesn't really enhance the performance of the garment. its just ornamentation. i don't like ornamentation.



i've never seen lopsided calves way up above the knee on anyone. or hamstrings so well developed that you need an extra 3 inches of fabric to contain them. nor have i seen long joints below the knee yet somehow above the ankle. and finally, little footy pants pulled over my shoes would appear to be the opposite of helpful or comfortable. it just means i'm about to ruin my pants.

and i also feel like mentioning that having all the mannequins look like they are balling their eyes out and somehow relating the show/installation to hurricane katrina turned me off. are proceeds from the pants going to katrina victims?

i mean i think they look cool and i get the hard work and hours of perfecting the design that went into them. i'm not stupid, i get it. i just think the premise itself is a little wonky. its the illogical conclusion of "pants". and he's just really puffing himself up. "look i'm a really really important designer of pants. its all i do. i'm really trying to just figure out pants ya know? no really come to my show, all my mannequins are totally balling. they're sad about these pants because of how awesome they are. its the end of pants. nowhere to go now. pants are dead. i killed them with awesomeness."

just kidding i don't know what i'm talking about. but it all seems silly from here.

[kunk75]

it is silly IMO. even a tangential connection to the katrina thing is disgusting.

[cjbreed]

i don't want to sound too harsh and dismiss someones work so cavalierly. and most of my complaints have been voiced before (and better) by other members (limits of anatomical rtw + over designed details). i actually quite like the 2 pants i just posted up there. i just get annoyed at the pompous, grandiosity of it all. the ego.

[delirium]

weird because i understand the concerns about pricing, anatomical silliness... but i don't get the impression that he is an egomaniac at all.

he seems pretty down to earth and just content to do his own thing at his own pace.

anyways we like what we like. price is obviously an issue. i doubt i will buy a pair in the forseeable future, but i can still like them as design objects - the same way I'm not going to buy or even enjoy most CCP. it's not for everyone...

and i don't think he ever claimed that these were supposed to be anatomical for the human body... most of these designs were based off of his "characters" no?

[cjbreed]

i don't know about the characters. and all i'm stating is a general impression based on the little i know, so i'm no authority. but i think it has a great deal to do with human anatomy. one of the pants is called the anatomy trouser.

the stone island collab was called "modular anatomy".


and articulated anatomy

the umbro collab seems to center on anatomy in motion

the cp company goggle jacket involved anatomy in a driving position



i shouldn't have said anything about ego. that was probably inaccurate. i was just cranky and hadn't had my coffee and was feeling general annoyance toward drama of any kind. i actually quite like his designs. it just is a tad overwrought

[delirium]

two links from the first post of this thread

http://styleskilling.com/2006/10/11/aitor-throup-part-i-when-football-hooligans-become-hindu-gods-a-3-d-comic/

http://styleskilling.com/2006/10/17/aitor-throup-part-ii-branding-through-construction/

it talks a little about his thesis collection, and how he used his comic book characters to make 3d representations, so i was under the impression that the prelude / legs collection is an outgrowth of some of those designs he made hence - the strange proportions.

i never thought of them as being literal anatomical representations. although, the stone island and umbro collaboration stuff is definitely centered at human anatomy.

[cjbreed]

two links from the first post of this thread

http://styleskilling.com/2006/10/11/aitor-throup-part-i-when-football-hooligans-become-hindu-gods-a-3-d-comic/

http://styleskilling.com/2006/10/17/aitor-throup-part-ii-branding-through-construction/

it talks a little about his thesis collection, and how he used his comic book characters to make 3d representations, so i was under the impression that the prelude / legs collection is an outgrowth of some of those designs he made hence - the strange proportions...

well i'll be damned. i should have kept my big mouth shut. i didn't understand it at all. it makes so much more sense after reading that. thanks for that delirium. now i need to go back and edit my posts so that i don't look like a dick.

nah i'll leave it up. i can handle being wrong. because still, if a person didn't know the "characters" backstory you'd just think the fit and design looked off...

still don't like the crying mannequins. do like them suspended from the ceiling tho.

[tweeds]

Just saw two looks from his Hindu Gods collection up close - YKK has a small space exhibiting a selection of designers in St Martin's courtyard, for anyone in London - and it's pretty breathtaking. Dynamic, insane construction (as seenmy said, but I was skeptical until I saw for myself), and visually so strong.

[kunk75]

big selection of articulated anatomy at century 21

[the breaks]

big selection of articulated anatomy at century 21

God damn it, and I'm not in NY until April :(

[seenmy]

anyone hook me up?

[zamb]

big selection of articulated anatomy at century 21

i had gotten a tee from the one here in queens,
I liked it but it was too tight and I sold it here........

I might have to head down there cause i liked the fabrics they used

anyone hook me up?

I would but you owe me one, so should I or should I not.............
I question myself..........

[larssss]

I was in NY in Jan and was pleasantly surprised to see so much Articulated Anatomy at C21. Pick up the cargos and a long sleeve and in retrospect wish I had picked up the cargos in both colours as I absolutely love them. The fabric is a a bit light however and I wonder how they will stand up to day to day wear.

I'd also like to chime in with my thoughts on his pants collection. While I didn't try them on and won't speak for them aesthetically, they are simply the most amazingly constructed pants I have ever seen and I work with garment construction for a living.

[Servo2000]

Did Articulated Anatomy get produced in XS? I haven't really bothered looking since I've never seen an XS at the stockists I was able to get to that had the modular / articulated anatomy collaborations.

[kunk75]

yes they had size 44 pants